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BOOK    917.4.B95    c.  1 

BURT    #    ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE    TO 

CONNECTICUT   VALLEY 


3  T153  DDElOlfil  b 


^ 


BURT'S  ^^, 


ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE 


OF    THE 


COHECTICUT  VALLEY, 


CONTAINING  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE,   MOUNT   MANSFIELD,   WHITE   MOUNTAINS, 

LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG,   LAKE  WILLOUGHBY, 

MONTREAL,    QUEBEC,   &c. 


By  henry  M.  BURT. 


♦•♦■• 


SPRINGFIELD: 

NEW  ENGLAND  PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 

1866. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1866,  by 
HENRY    M.    BURT, 

In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the 

District  of  Massachusetts. 


CASE,    LOCKWOOD    k   CO., 
PRINTERS   AND    BOOKBINDERS, 
HARTFORD,    COXN. 


tOCKWOOB  &  MANDEVOLE, 

Electrotypers, 

HARTFORt),     COWK. 


THE  EDITOR'S  APOLOGT. 


Ix  presenting  this  book  to  the  public,  it  has  been  the  aim  of  the  Editor 
to  awaken  an  increased  interest  in  New  England's  fairest  and  loveliest 
regioce,  and  to  assist  the  seeker  after  pleasure  to  obtain  a  more  perfect 
knowledge  of  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  Connecticut  Valley  scenery 
and  that  bordering  on  it.  He  has  aimed  to  discard  glittering  generalities 
for  solid  substance,  stopping  by  the  way  only  long  enough  to  point  out 
the  piquant  condiments  that  each  may  flavor  to  his  own  taste.  He  has 
also  endeavoi'ed  to  present  briefly  and  concisely  each  object  of  interest 
from  its  own  standpoint,  so  that  the  traveler,  whether  in  pursuit  of 
business   or  pleasure,  can  find  something  suited  to  his  wants. 

Every  town  and  mountain  of  importance  on  the  entire  route,  from  the 
Ocean  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  has  been  visited,  and  the  statements  made 
concerning  them  in  this  volume  are  from  original  and  reliable  sources, 
and  not  from  hasty  glances  and  antiquated  gazetteers,  as  is  too  frequently 
the  case  with  many  of  the  guide  books  that  have  been  published. 

In  preparing  the  Guide  the  Editor  has  kept  in  view  the  wants  of  the 
pubhc,  and  has  bestowed  commendation  only  upon  such  places  and  per- 
sons as  he  conscientiously  believed  to  be  worthy,  avoiding  in  every  in- 
stance that  -which  might  tend  to  vex  and  mislead. 

An  occasional  anecdote  and  reminiscence,  many  of  them  never  before 
in  print,  have  been  culled  from  the  way-side  and  are  here  presented,  to 
enliven  and  relieve  the  monotony  of  description,  as  too  much  of  a  good 
thing  is  apt  to  weary  the  best  of  tastes. 

The  Guide  is  at  your  service.  Reader,  and  it  is  hoped  you  will  find  in  it 
a  help  to  your  enjoyment  of  a  tour  through  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
where  it  is  confidently  believed  you  can  find  increased  health  and  a 
pleasant  life-long  remembrance. 


CONTEISTTS 


Alburgh  Sulphur  Springs, 

AUyn  House,  Hartford, 

Amherst  and  its  Colleges, 

Anecdote  of  Dr.  Lathrop, 

Arsenal  at  Springfield, 

Ascutuey  Mouatain, 

Barnett, 

Barton, 

Barton  Landing,    . 

Battle  of  Bloody  Brook, 

Bellows  Falls, 

Berlin  Junction, 

Bernardston, 

Bethel, 

Bolton  Falls, 

Bradford, 

Braintree, 

Brattleboro, 

Brattleboro  House, 

Bridgeport, 

Burlington, 

Camel's  Hump, 

Capture  of  Mrs.  Howe, 

Central  Park, 

Charlestown, 

Chicopee, 

Clare  m  on  t, 

Coventry, 

Dartmouth  College, 

Dartmouth  Student  and  the  Chelsea  Clerk 

Deerfield, 

Deertield  Bridge, 

Digging  for  Gold, 

East  Rock, 

Easthampton, 

Elephant's  Tusk,    . 

Essex  Junction, 

Fairbanks'  Scales, 

Fairlee  and  Orford, 

First  Blood  of  the  Revolution, 

First  Settlement  in  Vermont, 

Florence  Sewing  Machine  Works, 

General  Stark, 

Georgia, 

Governor  Fairbanks, 

Great  Bend  in  the  Connecticut, 

Great  Iron  Bridge  at  Warehouse  Point, 

Great  Ox-Bow  at  Newbury, 

Greenfield, 

Greenwich, 

Hadley, 

Hanging  Hills, 

Hartford, 


CONTENTS. 


Hartford  Carpet  Co. 

Hartland, 

Hatfield, 

Haverhill, 

Hazard  Powder  Works, 

Heroism  of  John  Kilburn, 

High  Bridge, 

High  Gate  Sulphur  Springs, 

Holy  ok  e, 

Island  House,  Bellows  Falls, 

Islands  in  the  Connecticut, 

Jay  Peak, 

Jonesville, 

Lake  Memphremagog, 

Lyndon, 

Mansfield  House,     . 

Mansion  House,  Northampton, 

Massasoit  House,  Springfield, 

McDonough  House, 

Mclndoe's  Falls, 

Memphremagog,     . 

Meriden, 

Middletown, 

Middlesex, 

Milford, 

Milton, 

Montpelier, 

Montreal, 

Moose  Hillock, 

Mount  Holyoke  Female  Seminary 

Mount  Holyoke, 

Mount  Kilburn, 

Mount  Lamentation, 

Mount  Mansfield,    . 

Mount  Monadnock, 

Mount  Orford, 

Mount  Tom, 

Mrs.  Partington  on  the  Cars, 

Newbury,   . 

New  Britain, 

New  Haven, 

New  Haven  Hotel, 

New  Rochelle, 

Northampton, 

Northfield,  Mass., 

Northfield,  Vt.,      . 

North  Thetford,      . 

Norwalk,     . 

Norwich  &  Hanover, 

Norwich  University, 

Old  Put  Riding  Down  the  Rocks, 

Origin  of  the  Silk  Fever, 

Otta  Quechee*  River, 

Ottawa,  Canada  West, 

Owl's  Head, 


83,  217- 


Page. 
64 
137 
104 
178 
64 
127 
26 
163 
77 
132 
182 
188 
150 
191-209 
157 
145 
89 
11 
47 
181 
192 
44 
46 
143 
34 
153 
142 
164 
178 
81 
-235 
130 
45 
146 
116 
206 
85 
133 
178 
46 
86 
40 
26 
85 
115 
142 
177 
31 
171 
175 
28 
94 
138 
169 
207 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Passu  mpsic  Eiver, 

182 

Pompauoosuc,         .... 

176 

Portland  Quarries,     .          .             .             . 

48 

Prospect  House,  Mt.  Hoi  yoke, 

83 

Rec^ideiice  of  Dr.  Holland, 

73 

Richmond,                .... 

150 

Round  Hill,  Northampton, 

87 

Rouse's  Point,         .... 

163 

Royalton,                 .... 

14') 

Runaway  Pond,      .... 

188 

Smith  Charities,  Northampton, 

93 

Sharon,       ..... 

140 

South  Deerfield,     ..... 

107 

South  Barton,          .             . 

188 

South  Royalton,      .... 

140 

South  Vernon,        .... 

115 

South  Windsor,      .... 

36 

Springfield,              .... 

65 

Stamford,    ..... 

30 

State  Line,              .... 

27 

St.  Albans, 

165 

St.  Albans  Raid,     .... 

160 

St.  Johnsbury,        .... 

183 

St.  Johnsbury  Center, 

186 

Sugar  Loaf  Mountain, 

104 

Sugar  River  Bridge, 

1 

136 

Summit  of  Green  Mountains,          .             . 

141 

Temple  Street,  New  Haven, 

37 

Thanksgiving  postponed  for  want  of  Molasses, 

180 

Thetford,     ..... 

176 

To  White  Mountains,  Lake  Memphremagog  and  ( 

Quebec, 

171 

Turner's  Falls,        ..... 

114 

Victoria  Bridge,     ..... 

166 

Wallingford  Community,    . 

42 

Walpole,     ..... 

125 

Warehouse  Point, 

63 

Warner  House,  Northampton, 

90 

Waterbury,              ..... 

144 

Welden  House,  St.  Albans, 

158 

Wells  River,            .... 

181 

West  Burke,            .... 

187 

West  Hartford,       .... 

140 

West  Randolph,     .... 

141 

West  Rock,             .... 

34 

Westminster,          ..... 

124 

White  River,           .... 

139 

W^hite  River  Junction, 

138 

Williston,                  .... 

15iJ 

Willoughby  Lake,               .... 

187,  2 

10—216 

Windsor,     ...... 

56 

Windsor  Locks,      .             .             .             ; 

58 

Windsor,    ...... 

136 

Woodstock,             ..... 

140 

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8 

SUMMER  TIME  TABLES  FOR  1866,  COMMENCING 

JULY  2nd. 

CONDENSED  TIME  TABLE 
From    New    York    to    Montreal,    White    Mountains,    and    Lake 

Memphremagog. 


GOING    NORTH. 

Montreal 

Steamb't 

Express. 

Express. 

from 

Express. 

I.F.AVE 

Express. 

Peck  Slip. 

A.  M. 

p.  M 

p.  M. 

p.  M. 

p.  M. 

New  York, 

8.00 

12.15 

3.00 

3.15 

8.00 

Bridgeport,  - 

10.15 

2.30 

5.14 

10.33 

New  Haven,      -         -         - 

11.00 

p.  M. 

3.20 

6.00 

8.15 

11.20 

A.  M. 

Hartford,       .        -        - 

12.23 

4.47 

7.15 

9.42 

12.40 

( Arrive, 

1.10 

A.  6.00 

A.  8.10 

10.43 

A.  1.40 

Springfield,        -       |  j_^^^^_ 

2.00 

L.  6.30 

A.  M. 

L.  7.45 

A.  M. 

L.  7.45 

A.  M. 

L  7.45 

Northampton, 

2.53 

7.20 

8.35 

Greenfield, 

3.43 

8.04 

9.23 

• 

South  Vernon, 

4.17 

8.33 

10.00 

Brattleboro, 

4.45 

8.57 

10.30 

Bellows  Falls, 

5.40 

10.00 

11.40 

Windsor,  -         .         -         - 

8.00 

11.10 

P    M. 

12.45 

( 

9.00 

11.47 

A.  1.15 

White  Eiver  Junction,    -     < 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 

( 

8.20 

8.20 

L.  1.45 

Wells  River,      - 

10.15 

10.15 

3.38 

Lttleton, 

11.15 

p.  M. 

11.15 

4.40 

"  Profile  House," 

1.00 

p.  M. 

1.00 

6.30 

"  Crawford  House," 

4.00 

A.  M. 

4.00 

9.30 

St.  Johnsbury,  -         -         - 

11.10 

A.  M. 

11.10 

4.34 

Newport  and  Lake  Memphre- 

p. M. 

p.  M. 

magog, 

1.00 

1.00 

6.30 

White  River  Junction,  - 

11.47 

1      vr 

1.20 

Montpelier,        .         -         - 

A.  M. 

3.00 

3.45 

Waterbury,    -        -         - 

3.22 

4.03 

Leave  Waterbury  by  Stage  for 

A.  M. 

p.  M. 

Stowe  and  Mansfield  House, 

9.00 

4.00 

5.30 

Essex  Junction, 

4.30 

5.00 

Burlington,    -         -         - 

5.05 

5.35 

St.  Albans, 

5.40 

6.00 

St.  Johns,      ... 

8.00 

8.00 

Montreal, 

9.30 

9.30 

CONDENSED  TIME  TABLE 

From  Montreal,    White    Mountains,   and    Lake   Memphremagog    to 

New  York, 


GOING    SOUTH. 

1 
Morning 

Xight 

! 

1  Morning 

Steamb't 

LE.A.VB 

Express. 

Express. 

Express. 

i    Train. 

Montreal, 

P.M. 

3.30 

St.  Johns, 

A.  M. 

4.50 

St.  Albans, 

1B.40 

7.20 

d 

Burlington,          -         -         .         . 

V.15 

8.00 

5 

Essex  Junction,      .... 

7.50 

8.45 

■+* 

Mansfield  House,  (Sto^\-e,)  - 

6.30 

2.00 

^ 

Waterbury, 

8.50 

9.48 

"eS     . 

Montpelier,         .... 

9.05 

10.05 

CO    ^ 

White  River  Junction,    - 

M. 

A  12.00 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 

1.25 

P.M. 

Newport,  Lake  Memphremagog, 
St.  Johnsburv,        .         .         -         . 

7.15 
9.18 

7.00 
9.00 

o 

"  Crawlord  House,"    - 

4.30 

12.30 

"  Profile  House,"    .... 

7.00 

3.00 

Littleton, 

9.00 

5.00 

S 

Wells  River, 

10.13 

9.45 

( 

A  11.55 

All. 34 

A    M. 

White  River  Junction,         -        -     \ 

p.  M. 

L12.25 

A.  M. 

L    1.25 

4.00 

Windsor, 

1.05 

2.05 

5.05 

Bellows  Falls,      .... 

2.35 

3.20 

7.50 

Brattleboro, 

3.25 

4.10 

8.50 

South  Vernon,    -         -         -         . 

3.45 

4.30 

9.23 

Greenfield, 

4.19 

4.56 

9.59 

Northampton,     .         -         -        - 

5.0S 

5.54 
A    6.30 

10.54 
All. 40 

P.  M. 

7.30 

Springfield,      -         -         -        -         < 

6.00 

L    7.00 

M. 

L  12.00 
p.  Ji. 

8.20 

Hartford, 

6.50 

8.10 

12.50 

9.30 

New  Haven, 

8.00 

9.45 

2.05 

11.00 

Bridgeport,         .... 

8.35 

10.22 

p.  M. 

2.40 

A.  M. 

New  York, 

10.45 

12.30 

4.45 

5.30 

N 


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Vermont  Central,  Vt.  &  Canada,  Sullivan,  and  Montreal  & 
Vermont  Junction  Kailroads. 


GOIIVG    IVOR'X'II. 

Miles^ 

STATIONS. 

Day 
Express. 

Mixed. 

Mail. 

Montreal 
Night  Express. 

A.   M. 

P.  M. 

P.  M. 

P.  M. 

Bellows  Falls, 

11.45 

5.50 

10.00 

4 

South  Charlestown, 

11.54 

6.05 

10.10 

8 

Charlestown, 

12.04 

6.30 

10.21 

13 

North  Charlestown, 

12.15 

6.53 

10.38 

18 

Claremont, 

12.25 

7.15 

10.46 

26 

Windsor, 

12.45 

8.00 

11.10 

30 

Hartland, 

12.54 

8.10 

11.21 

34 

North  Hartland, 

1.03 

8.38 

11.32 

40 

White  River  Junct'n,    \ 

Arr.    1.15 
Lev.   1.20 

9.00 

2.05 

j  Arr.    11.47 
I  Lev.    11.55 

41 

White  River  Village, 

1.23 

2.12 

12.01 

43 

AVoodstock, 

1.27 

2.15 

12.07 

47 

West  Hartford, 

1.35 

2.24 

12.18 

53 

Sharon, 

1.46 

2.37 

12.35 

58 

South  Royalton, 

1.56 

2.50 

12.46 

60 

Rovalton, 

2.03 

2.56 

12.51 

65 

Bethel, 

2.13 

3.08 

1.05 

72 

Randolph, 

2.82 

3.28 

1.26 

78 

Braintree, 

2.43 

3.50 

1.43 

86 

Roxbury, 

3.00 

4.10 

2.07 

93 

Northfield, 

3.15 

4.32 

2.25 

Montpelier  Junction, 

3.35 

5.00 

2.50 

103 

Moutpelier, 

3.45 

5.10 

3.10 

104 

Middlesex, 

3.50 

5.15 

3.06 

108 

Waterbury, 

4.03 

5.30 

3.22 

120 

Bolton, 

4.20 

5.50 

3.45 

123 

Jonesville, 

4.27 

6.00 

3.55 

126 

Richmond, 

4.35 

6.10 

4.05 

182 

Williston, 

4.50 

6.26 

4.20 

136 

Essex  Junction, 

6.00 

6.38 

4.31 

141 

Winooski, 

5.27 

7.20 

4.. 55 

144 

Burlington, 

6.35 

7.30 

5.05 

140 

Colchester, 

6.18 

7.10 

4.48 

147 

Milton, 

5.33 

7.33 

5.08 

150 

Georgia, 

5.40 

7.45 

5.17 

160 

St.  Albans, 

6.00 

8.10 

6.40 

Alburgh  Springs, 

6.52 

6.42 

Rouse's  Point, 

7.25 

7.15 

Highgate  Springs, 

6.47 

6.40 

St.  John's, 

8.00 

8.00 

16 


GOIIVO    SOUTH. 


Fares. 

Miles. 

STATIONS. 

Express. 

Day 

Express. 

Night 
Express. 

A.   M. 

A.  M. 

P.  M. 

St.  Johns, 

6.45 

10.00 

4.50 

Highgate, 

8.00 

11.12 

6.14 

Rouse's  Point, 

4.30 

10.45 

6.45 

Al  burgh  Springs, 

4.58 
Mail. 

11.05 

6.08 

St.  Albans, 

6.40 

12.00 

7.20 

.40 

9 

Georgia, 

7.05 

12.22 

7.45 

.55 

13 

Milton, 

7.13 

12.32 

7.56 

.85 

20 

Colchester, 

7.33 

12.50 

8.18 

1.30 

32 

Burlington, 

7.15 

1.35 

8.00 

29 

Winooski, 

7.23 

1.27 

8.16 

1.00 

24 

Essex  Junction, 

7.50 

1.10 

8.45 

1.15 

28 

Willistou, 

8.00 

1.20 

8.55 

1.35 

33 

Richmond, 

8.13 

1.33 

9.10 

1.50 

37 

Jonesville, 

8.21 

1.41 

9.19 

1.60 

39 

Bolton, 

8.30 

1.49 

9.2S 

1.90 

47 

Waterbury, 

8.50 

2.10 

9.48 

2.10 

52 

Middlesex, 

9.05 

2.25 

10.03 

2.35 

58 

Montpelier, 

9.25 

2.50. 

10.05 

57 

Montpelier  Junction, 

9.05 

2.42 

10.17 

2.'75 

66 

Northfield, 

9.37 

3.15 

10.37 

3.00 

73 

Roxbury, 

9.57 

3.30 

11.00 

3.35 

82 

Braintree, 

10.17 

3.50 

11.25 

3.55 

88 

Randolph, 

10.33 

4.02 

11.40 

3.85 

95 

Bethel, 

10.52 

4.19 

12.00 

4.05 

100 

Royalton, 

11.03 

4.27 

12.13 

4.15 

102 

South  Royalton, 

11.13 

4.31 

12.30 

4.35 

107 

Sharon, 

11.25 

4.41 

12.35 

4.55 

112 

West  Hartford, 

11.40 

4.52 

12.50 

4.75 

117 

Woodstock, 

11.50 

5.00 

1.00 

4.80 

118 

White  River  Village, 

11.55 

5.05 

1.05 

4.85 

120 

White  River  Junction,      ■] 

Arr.  12.00 
Lv.   12.25 

5.10  ( 

Ar.    1.10 
Lv.   1.25 

4.90 

125 

North  Hartland, 

12.40 

1.40 

5.05 

129 

Hartland, 

12.54 

1.53 

6.20 

134 

Windsor, 

1.05 

2.05 

5.30 

142 

Claremont, 

1.25 

2.35 

146 

North  Charlestown, 

1.40 

2.45 

6.45 

152 

Charlestown, 

1.58 

3.00 

156 

South  Charlestown, 

2.10 

3.10 

5.60 

160 

Bellows  Falls, 

2.20 

3.20 

17 


Vermont  Central  Railroad  Line 

Connecting  at  Bellows  Falls,  •with 
Connecticut  River  Railroad  Line,  for  Springfield,  New  York,  &c.,  forming 

THE  DIRECT  RAILROAD  LINE,    ' 

BETWEEN 

New  York,  New  Haven,  Hartford,  Springfield,  &c.,  and  the  White  and 
Franconia  Mountains.  Mount  Mansfield,  Montreal  and  Ogdensburg. 

CONNECTIONS  SURE,  AND  NO  CHANGE  OF  CARS 

BETWEEN 

Springfield    and    St.  Albans,   and    Springfield    and    "Wells    River. 
SI4EEFINQ  CASS  are  rim  on  all  night  Passenger  Trains 


18 


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19 

RAILROAD  CONNECTIOXS. 

At  Wells  Riter  with  White  Mountains  Railroad  for  Littleton,  and  Bos- 
ton, Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad  for  Concord ;  at  White  River  Jcn'C- 
TiON  with  Northern  Railroad  for  Concord,  Manchester,  Nashua,  Lowell 
Worcester,  Boston ;  also  with  Vermont  Central  Railroad  for  Waterbury, 
Montpelier,  Burlington,  Saratoga,  via  Lake  Champlain,  Ogdensburgh  and 
Montreal;  also  with  Connecticut  River  Line  for  Bellows  Falls,  Saratoga, 
via  Rutland,  Brattleboro,  Springfield,  Hartford,  New  Haven,  New  York, 
and  southern  cities. 

STAGE  CONNECTIONS. 

Stages  leave  Norwich  for  Hanover.  Pompanoosuc  for  Union  Tillage 
and  Strafford.  Thetford  for  West  Fairlee,  Vershire  and  Chelsea.  Brad- 
ford for  Corinth,  Topsham,  Washington,  Orange,  MontpeHer  and  Barro. 
Wells  River  for  Groton,  Barnet  for  Peachani.  St.  Johnsbury  for  Dan- 
ville, Walden,  Hardwick,  Cabot,  Montpelier,  West  Concord,  Lunenburg, 
Guildhall,  Lancaster  and  Littleton.  Lyndon  for  Wheelock,  Sheffield  and 
Island  Pond.  West  Burke  for  Willoughby  Lake.  Barton  for  Glover  and 
Craftsbury.  Barton  Landing  for  Irasburg.  Newport  for  Derby  Line 
Stanstead,  and  eastern  townships  of  Canada. 

THE  STEAMER  MOUNTAIN  MAID. 

Steamer  Mountain  Maid  leaves  Newport  daily  at  Y.15  A.  M.,  connecting 
with  coaches  for  Sherbrooke — Grand  Trunk  Railroad — arriving  at  Mon- 
treal or  Quebec  the  same  evening.  Returning,  leaves  Magog  at  2.00  P. 
M.,  arriving  at  Newport  to  connect  with  '7.00  P.  M.  train  for  New  York, 
Boston,  and  Burlington. 

C^ SMOKING  CARS  ON  ALL  TRAINS. ^^^ 

LrxuRiousLY  FURNISHED  "Ladies  Cars"  ruii  daily  between  Springfield 
and  Lake  Memphremagog. 

NO  CHANGE  OF  CARS 
between  Boston  (Lowell  Depot)  and  Lake  Memphremagog,  or  Springfield 

and  Lake  Memphremagog. 

THROUGH  TICKETS 
sold  at  all  the  principal  railroad  stations  for  Profile  House,  (Franconia 
Mountains,)   Crawford  House,  ("White  Mountains,)  and  Newport,  (Lake 
Memphremagog. )     Also  at  Profile  House  and  Crawford  House  for  Bos- 
ton, New  York,  Saratoga,  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  intermediate  stations. 

I^-ASK  FOR  TICKETS  YIA  PASSUMPSIC  RAILROAD.  ^^^ 

A.  H.  PEKRY,  Superintendent. 


GUIDE  BOOK. 


INTRODUCTORY. 

The  fertility  and  beauty  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  have 
long  been  known  to  the  favored  few,  and  poets  and  artists  have 
given  the  world  glimpses  of  its  salient  points,  but  it  was  not 
until  quite  a  recent  period  that  its  charming  and  matchless 
characteristics  became  known  to  the  many.  The  extension  of 
more  rapid  and  comfortable  modes  of  travel  has  opened  the 
doors  to  this  elysian  field,  and  thousands  come  with  the  recur- 
ring period  of  foliage  and  flowers,  to  worship  at  the  shrine  of 
beauty  found  in  lofty  mountains,  broad  meadows  and  a  majestic 
river.  While  the  noble  Connecticut  is  the  Rhine  of  New  Eng- 
land, the  region  of  its  source  is  the  Switzerland  of  America, 
and  year  by  year  the  pilgrims  to  this  favored  land  journey 
thither  in  search  of  rest  and  inspiration. 

There  is  hardly  a  town,  mountain,  or  lake,  along  the  entire 
route,  that  is  not  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  but  those  which 
have  attracted  the  most  attention  within  the  last  few  years,  are 
New  Haven,  Hartford,  Springfield,  Northampton,  Mt.  Holyoke, 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  Greenfield,  Brattleboro',  Bellows  Falls, 
White  Mountains,  Lake  Willoughby,  Lake  Memphremagog, 
Quebec,  Montreal,  St.  Albans,  Burlington,  and  Mt.  Mansfield. 

From  New  York  to  Springfield  there  is  a  double  track  rail- 
road, and  the  express  trains  stop  only  at  Stamford,  Norwalk, 
Bridgeport,  New  Haven,  Meriden,  Berlin  Junction,  and  Hai*t- 
ford,  running  136  miles  in  five  hours.  At  Springfield  the 
tourist  will  have  50  minutes  for  dinner.     The  Massasoit  House 


22  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

is  situated  within  a  hundred  feet  of  the  eastern  end,  (south 
side)  of  the  depot.  A  porter  is  always  in  attendance  to  take 
your  baggage  to  the  hotel. 

In  proceeding  to  the  White  Mountains,  Lake  Memphrema- 
gog,  Quebec,  Montreal,  Mt.  Mansfield,  or  intermediate  points, 
you  will  take  the  cars  of  the  Connecticut  River  Railroad,  in 
Springfield,  on  the  north  side  of  the  depot.  If  you  are  unac- 
quainted with  the  route,  you  will  do  well  to  remember  that  the 
cars  going  either  north  or  south,  enter  and  leave  the  Springfield 
depot  at  its  western  end. 

Between  Springfield  and  Lake  Meraphreraagog  there  is  no 
change  of  cars.  An  elegantly  furnished  ladies'  car  runs  through 
both  ways  on  the  morning  trains.  Going  north  on  the  train 
which  leaves  Springfield  at  7.45  A.  m.,  you  stop  about  20 
minutes  at  Bellows  Falls,  where  you  can  take  dinner  at  the 
refreshment  room,  or  wait  until  the  arrival  of  the  train  at 
White  River  Junction  at  1.15  p.  m.  At  this  place  you  have 
half  an  hour  for  dinner,  either  in  going  or  returning  from  the 
White  Mountains.  Adjoining  the  refreshment  room  there  is  a 
dining  hall,  where  you  will  find  a  neatly  spread  table  and  a 
good  dinner.  At  Wells  River,  40  miles  from  White  River 
Junction,  you  change  cars  in  going  to  the  White  Mountains. 
From  there  to  Littleton  the  distance  by  the  White  Mountains 
Railroad  is  20  miles.  From  Littleton  you  proceed  by  stage 
to  Profile  House,  11  miles,  and  to  Crawford  House,  24  miles. 

The  tourist  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  Crawford  House  is 
in  the  White  Mountains,  and  the  Profile  House  in  the  Franco% 
nia  Mountains.  If  you  call  for  a  ticket  for  the  White  Moun% 
tains,  the  agent  will  give  you  one  to  the  Crawford  House^ 
You  will  find  it  to  your  advantage  to  purchase  one  to  the  Pro- 
file House,  as  this  will  save  you  13  miles  of  staging  the  same 
day.  If  you  leave  White  River  Junction  at  8.20  a.  m.,  you 
reach  the  Profile  House  at  1,  and  the  Crawford  House  at  4, 
r.  M.     If  you  leave  at  1.45  p.  m.,  (the  morning   train  from 


INTRODUCTORY.  •  23 

Springfield,)  you  arrive  at  the  Profile  House  at  6.30,  and  at 
Crawford  House  at  9.30. 

At  Lake  Memphremagog,  105  miles  from  "White  River  Junc- 
tion and  229  from  Springfield,  the  cars  stop  at  the  door  of  the 
Memphremagog  House,  on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  Leaving 
Springfield  at  7.45,  a.  m.,  you  arrive  there  at  6.30,  p.  m.  The 
next  morning  you  can  leave  with  Capt.  Fogg  on  the  steamer 
Mountain  Maid,  for  a  trip  through  the  lake,  which  is  30  miles 
in  length.  You  can  stop  at  the  Mountain  House,  12  miles  from 
the  Memphremagog  House,  and  ascend  Owl's  Head,  which  is 
nearly  3,000  feet  above  the  lake,  or  proceed  to  Magog,  at  the 
outlet.  From  Magog  you  can  stage  it  16  miles  to  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway,  at  Sherbrook,  and  proceed  thence  to  Quebec 
or  Montreal. 

While  the  route  from  New  York  to  the  White  Mountains  and 
Quebec,  through  the  Connecticut  Valley,  is  far  the  most  in- 
teresting, it  is  seventy  miles  shorter  than  any  other. 

Li  leaving  New  York,  the  tourist,  if  he  prefers,  can  take  the 
night  boat  to  New  Haven,  spend  a  few  hours  the  next  morning 
in  the  city,  and  then  proceed  north. 

In  going  to  Mount  Mansfield,  you  proceed  to  Waterbury,  on 
the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  where  you  take  the  stage  for 
Stowe,  10  miles  further  north.  At  Stowe  there  is  a  first  class 
hotel,  capable  of  holding  300  guests.  This  is  8  miles  from  the 
summit,  where  there  is  another  hotel,  which  will  accommodate 
about  100  persons.  Coaches  run  from  StoAve  to  the  Half-way 
House,  3  miles  from  the  Summit  House.  The  remainder  of 
the  distance  is  accomplished  on  horse  back. 

Li  going  to  Montreal,  business  men,  especially,  will  find  the 
route  through  the  Connecticut  Valley  a  desirable  one.  The 
train  leaves  New  York  at  12.15,  p.  m.,  arriving  at  Springfield 
at  6  o'clock.  Here  you  have  half  an  hour  for  supper.  From 
Springfield  to  St.  Albans,  sleeping  cars  are  run  on  all  night 
trains,  going  through  without  change.     You  take  breakfast  at 


24  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLET  GUIDE. 

St.  Albans  at  6,  a.  m.,  and  arrive  at  Montreal  at  9.30,  A.  m. 
Returning,  you  leave  Montreal  at  3.30,  p.  M.,  take  supper  at 
St.  Albans,  breakfast  at  Springfield,  and  dinner  in  New  York, 
making  this  a  pleasant  and  expeditious  route  between  Canada 
and  New  York. 

Having  given  this  brief  summary  of  the  facilities  for  a  tour 
through  the  heart  of  New  England,  a  land  not  only  overflowing 
with  goodness  and  beauty,  but  rich  in  historical  incident,  the 
care-worn  toiler  is  invited  to  green  fields  and  shady  nooks, 
where  he  will  not  only  find  rest,  but  lessons  in  the  stones  and 
^uimuig  brooks. 


THE    ROUTE. 


The  ride  over  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  Railroad,  a 
distance  of  74  miles,  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  that  can  be 
taken  by  rail.  Elegant  private  residences  crown  the  hill-tops 
on  every  hand,  evidences  of  wealth  and  refinement,  while  the 
views  of  the  Sound  at  various  points,  dotted  with  the  sails  of  busy 
commerce,  and  of  the  shores  of  Long  Island  in  the  distance,  give 
pleasing  variety  to  the  scene.  Many  places  along  the  route  are 
of  historic  interest,  where  were  enacted  in  the  Revolution  deeds 
that  will  be  ever  memorable.  These  villages  have  been  built,  or 
greatly  improved,  by  persons  doing  business  in  New  York,  who 
have  sought  homes  in  quiet  and  rural  places  near  the  great  city. 
The  beautiful  groves  and  lawns  that  are  passed  are  in  refresh- 
ing contrast  with  the  paved  and  dirty  streets  just  left  behind. 

Leaving  the  station  at  27th  Street,  which  is  reached  from  the 
Astor  House  by  horse  cars  and  the  public  carriages,  the  train, 
drawn  by  horses,  passes  through  the  tunnel,  and  thence  to  42d 
Street,  where  the  engine  is  attached. 

CENTRAL  PARK. 

As  you  proceed  northward  the  eastern  boundary  of  Central 
Park  will  be  aoticed  on  the  left,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
railroad.  It  embraces  nearly  a  thousand  acres  and  in  time 
will  be  one  of  the  best  parks  in  the  world.  Its  lawns, 
walks,  drives,  lakes  and  fountains  make  it  very  attractive. 
At  four  o'clock  every  Saturday  afternoon  during  the  summer 
public  concerts  are  given  at  the  expense  of  the  city,  free 
to  all,  and  thousands  are  attracted  thither  to  listen  to  the 
2 


26  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

music  and  stroll  about  the  Park.  In  autumn,  after  the  return  of 
city  tourists  from  the  coimtry  the  gathering  i.s  immense,  and  the 
display  of  elegant  carriages  and  spirited  horses  has  no  equal  at 
any  other  time  or  place  in  this  country. 

HIGH  BRIDGE. 

Five  miles  north  of  42d  Street  is  Harlem,  once  a  suburban 
village,  but  now  part  of  the  Great  Metropolis.  Before  crossing 
Harlem  River,the  northern  limits  of  Manhattan  Island,  the  west- 
ern end  of  High  Bridge  is  visible.  This  is  one  of  the  greatest 
triumphs  ever  made  in  the  art  of  bridge  building.  It  was  built 
across  Harlem  River  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the  water 
flowing  into  Croton  Aqueduct,  to  the  receiving  reservoir  in  New 
York.  It  is  1450  feet  in  length,  114  feet  above  tide  and  was  built 
of  cut  stone.  It  has  fifteen  arches,  eight  of  which  are  80  feet  span, 
and  the  whole  cost  of  the  bridge  exceeded  a  million  of  dollars. 
A  little  steamer  makes  hourly  trips  during  the  summer  from 
Harlem  to  the  bridge,  affording  an  excellent  opportunity  for 
strangers  to  visit  it. 

Crossing  Harlem  River  the  villages  of  Morrissania,  Mott 
Haven,  Mount  Yernon  and  Fordham  are  passed  before  reach- 
ing AVilliams'  Bridge,  Avhere  the  Harlem  Railroad  branches  to 
the  left  and  pursues  a  northerly  route  through  the  country,  par- 
allel with  the  Hudson  River. 

NEW  ROCHELLE, 

Nearly  eighteen  miles  from  New  York,  was  settled  by 
Huguenots  from  Rochelle,  in  France.  For  several  years  it  was 
the  residence  of  Thomas  Paine,  who  died  in  1809.  He  was 
buried  here  upon  what  was  formerly  a  part  of  his  own  estate. 
The  monument  erected  to  his  memory,  bears  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, in  accordance  with  his  own  request:  "Thomas  Paine, 
author  of  Common  Sense,  died  June  8,  1809,  aged  72  years." 
Paine  v^as  the  son  of  an  English  Quaker,  and  coming  to  this 


THE    STATE    LINE.  27 

country  in  1774  he  settled  in  Philadelphia.  In  1776  he  wrote 
a  pamphlet  entitled  Common  Sense,  in  which  he  urged  the  sep- 
aration of  the  colonies  from  the  mother  country.  It  met  with 
universal  favor  and  more  than  any  one  thing,  brought  the  peo- 
ple to  the  point  of  resisting  British  tyranny.  The  pamphlet  won 
him  the  friendship  of  Washington,  Franklin,  Dr.  Rush  and 
other  distinguished  American  leaders,  and  Congress  acknowl- 
edged his  services  by  appointing  him  Secretary  to  the  Commit- 
tee on  Foreign  Affairs.  He  was  the  author  of  the  often  quoted 
line,  "  These  are  the  times  that  try  men's  souls,"  which  appeared 
in  the  Crisis,  another  Revolutionary  pamphlet  published  by 
him.  In  1787  he  visited  France,  went  from  there  to  England, 
and  returned  to  the  United  States  in  1802,  settling  in  New 
York.  The  Quakers  refusing  him  a  place  of  interment  in  their 
grounds,  which  favor  he  requested  before  his  death,  he  was 
buried  on  his  farm  in  New  Rochelle.  William  Cobbett,  the 
English  reformer,  who  visited  this  country  and  wrote  a  biogra- 
phy of  Paine,  disinterred  his  remains  and  took  them  to  England. 
The  monument  erected  to  his  memory,  stands  within  a  few  feet 
of  where  he  was  first  buried. 

TllE  STATE    LINE. 

The  stations  of  Mamaroneck,  Rye  and  Port  Chester,  are 
passed  before  reaching  the  boundary  line  between  New  York 
and  Connecticut.  The  latter  place  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Bryam  River  where  the  tourist  after  crossing  it  enters  the 
Nutmeg  State. 

GREENWICH. THE     SCENE     OF     GEN.    PUTNAM's    DARING    EX- 
PLOIT. 

Soon  after  passing  Port  Chester,  and  31  miles  from  New 
York,  will  be  seen  the  village  of  Greenwich,  situated  on  a  hill, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  railroad.  It  contains  some  elegant 
residences  and  two  large  churches,  Congregational  and   Episco- 


28  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

pal,  built  of  stone.  The  Congregational  church  stands  in  a  con- 
spicuous place  and  its  spire  can  be  seen  for  several  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  village.  The  Episcopal  church  stands  almost 
on  the  brow  of  the  hill  further  to  the  east.  The  view  of  the 
Sound  and  Long  Island  from  the  village  is  extensive  and  pictur- 
esque. 

OLD  PUT  RIDING  DOWN  THE  ROCKS. 

This  place  was  made  famous  by  one  of  those  daring  exploits 
of  Gen.  Israel  Putnam  in  the  Revolution,  which  so  distinguished 
him  for  bravery.  Putnam  was  stationed  here  with  150  men 
and  two  cannon,  which  were  without  drag  ropes  or  horses,  to 
check  the  advance  of  the  British,  under  Tryon,  who  was  making 
an  incursion  into  Connecticut  with  1500  men.  Tryon  sent  a 
party  of  dragoons,  supported  by  infantry,  to  charge  up  the  hill 
and  dislodge  Putnam's  little  band.  A  spirited  firing  was  kept 
up  until  Putnam,  seeing  it  would  be  useless  to  make  further  resist- 
ance, ordered  his  men  to  retreat  into  the  swamp  on  the  east 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  cavalry.  He  kept  his  position  until 
his  men  were  safely  away,  and  then,  just  as  the  British  troopers 
were  riding  down  upon  him  from  the  west,  sure  of  their  coveted 
prize,  Putnam  put  spurs  to  his  fleet  horse  and  rode  at  break-neck 
speed  to  the  east,  down  the  stone  steps  that  had  been  con- 
structed for  the  use  of  the  people  who  ascended  the  hill  to  attend 
church.  When  the  British  came  to  the  spot  Putnam  had  just 
left,  their  horses  stopped  with  fright  and  the  intrepid  hero  made 
good  his  escape.  A  volley  was  fired  at  him  and  one  bullet  passed 
through  his  hat.  The  General,  still  unharmed,  kept  on  to 
Stamford  where  he  raised  a  larger  force  and  returned  and  fell 
upon  Tryon's  rear,  then  on  retreat,  and  captured  38  prisoners 
and  considerable  amunition.  The  next  day  he  made  an  ex- 
change of  prisoners  with  Tryon,  who  sent  him  a  new  suit  of 
clothes,  including  a  hat,  to  take  the  place  of  the  one  that  had 
been  pierced  with  bullets,  a  compliment  for  his  bravery  and  he- 


OLD   PUT    BIDING   DOWN  THE   ROCKS. 


29 


manity.  A  man  who  stood  near  Putnam,  says  the  historian, 
when  he  made  the  fearful  plunge  down  the  rocks,  said 
he  was  "  cursing  the  British  terribly."  The  hill  at  this 
place  is  a  hundred  feet  high  gftid  quite  steep.  A  pubhc  road 
has  been  cut  through  the  rocks  just  north  of  where  this  daring 
exploit  occurred,  leading  to  Coscob.     A  little  way  east  of  the 


30  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Greenwich  depot  the  railroad  passes  through  the  same  ledge 
and  the  locality  can  be  seen  from  the  cars.  A  few  rods  east  of 
the  Episcopal  church,  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  will  be  noticed  a 
large,  square  white  house.  This  stands  about  ten  rods  north  of 
where  the  stone  steps  were  located.  They  have  been  removed 
but  the  place  still  bears  the  name  of  "  Put's  Hill." 

Soon  after  leaving  Greenwich  the  road  crosses  Mianus  River 
upon  a  draw  bridge,  forty  feet  above  the  water,  where  the 
trains  stop  in  compliance  with  a  law  of  the  State.  The  village 
of  Coscob  will  be  noticed  a  mile  north  of  the  railroad. 

STAMFORD. 

Distance  from  New  York,  35  miles ;  Montreal,   411 ;  White  Mountains,  297; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  330;  Quebec,  503. 

Crossing  Stamford  River  the  express  trains  make  their  first 
stop  out  of  New  York,  at  the  beautiful  town  of  Stamford,  one  of 
the  neatest  on  the  whole  line.  This  place  is  noted  for  its  wide 
and  shady  streets,  elegant  private  residences  and  great  wealth. 
Over  150  people  live  here  who  do  business  in  New  York,  going 
and  returning  by  railroad.  In  summer  from  1,000  to  1,500 
New  York  people  come  here  to  spend  the  warm  season.  There 
are  four  public  parks  in  the  town,  and  the  drives  over  the  sum- 
mits north  and  east  of  the  village,  from  which  an  extensive  view 
is  had,  are  unsurpassed.  There  are  eight  churches  in  the  town 
— one  Congregational,  Presbyterian,  two  Episcopal,  Baptist^ 
Universalist,  Methodist,  and  one  Catholic.  Considerable  busi- 
ness is  done  in  manufacturing  woolen  goods,  Olmstead's  patent 
oiler,  friction  pulleys,  well  curbs,  extracts  of  logwood,  machinery, 
&c.  There  are  three  boarding  schools  for  young  ladies,  and 
four  for  boys  in  the  town.  Among  the  residents  are  Brown 
Brothers,  brokers  in  New  York,  Hoyt  Brothers,  leather  mer- 
chants in  New  York,  Thomas  G.  Rich,  lawyer  in  New  York, 
James  H.  Hoyt,  Superintendent  of  the  New  York  and  New 
Haven  Railroad,  Geo.  A.  Hoyt,  Treasurer  Pennsylvania  Coal 
Company,  Rev.  E.  B.  Huntington,  author  of  the  Huntington  Me- 


NORWALK. 


31 


morial,  and  History  of  Stamford,  and  Capt.  Wm.  Skiddy,  an 
extensive  ship  builder.  Tlie  population  of  the  town  is  8,000 
and  that  of  the  village  about  4,000. 

The  next  way  station  is  Darien,  a    small    and   quiet    village, 
situated  upon  a  stream  that  falls  into  the  Sound. 

NORWALK^ 

Distance  from  New  York,  43  miles;  Montreal,  403:  White  Mountains,  289; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  322;  Quebec,  495. 

Norwalk,  the  second  stopping  place  for  express  trains  leaving 
New  York,  and  eight  miles  from  Stamford,  is  celebrated  for  its 
oysters  and  hats.     Some  three  to  five  hundred  hands  are  em- 
ployed in  the  oyster  business  and  it  is  estimated  that  nearly 
^500,000  annually  are  received  for  the  sale  of  oysters  that  are 
sent  to  other  parts  of  the  country.     There  is  no  other  town  on 
the  Sound  so  extensively  engaged  in  this  business.  Fair  Haven 
standing  next.     The  manufacture  of  hats  is  quite  extensive  and 
a  large  number  of  hands  are  employed.     The  straw  hat  factory 
employs  about  2000,  but  not  all  of  them  reside  in  the  town-. 
The  shirt  factory,  employing  400  hands,  is  the  next  most  ex- 
tensive manufacturing  establishment.     The  village  at  the  deppt  is 
known  as  South  Norwalk,  and  has  been  built  since  the  completion^ 
of  the  railroad ;  the  old  village,  or  Norwalk  proper,  is  located 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  the  railroad  and   is  connected 
with  the  south  village  by  a  horse  railroad  built  by  Le  Grand 
Lockwood,   a   wealthy   broker   doing   business  in   New  York 
but  residing  in  Norwalk,  of  which  town  he  is  a  native.     Mr. 
Lockwood   is   buildins:   a   magnificent   residence  of  stone  be- 
tween  the  two  villages,  which  can  be  seen  from  the    cars.     The 
streets  are  wide  and  the  large  shade  trees  and  elegant  residences 
give  the  appearance  of  neatness  and  comfort.     There  are  nine 
churches  in  the  two  villages.     The  hills  on  the  west,  north  and 
east,  afford  excellent  sites  for  dwellings,  and  on  many  of  them 
are  extensive  and  costly  edifices.     Norwalk  was  almost  totally 
destroyed  by  the  British"  and  Tories,  who  burnt  it  July  11th 


32  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

1779.  The  loss,  estimated  by  a  committee  appointed  by  the 
General  Assembly,  exceeded  $116,000.  The  population  of  the 
town  is  upward  of  8,000.  The  Danbury  and  Norwalk  Railroad 
extends  from  the  south  village  to  Danbury,  a  distance  of  24 
miles. 

Leaving  Norwalk  the  railroad  crosses  the  draw  bridge 
forty  feet  above  the  water,  where  that  sad  disaster  occurred  to 
the  express  train,  which  run  into  the  open  drawer,  several  years 
since,  killing  a  large  number  of  passengers.  Great  precaution 
has  since  been  taken  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  such  accidents. 

Before  reaching  the  next  station  for  express  trains,  the  beau- 
tiful towns  of  Westport,  Southport  and  Fairfield  are  passed. 
North  of  Southport  station  is  the  Pequot  swamp,  where  that 
once  great  and  powerful  tribe  of  Indians,  in  1637,  made  their 
last  stand  against  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts  troops.  Fair- 
field, was  burnt  July  7,  1779  by  Gov.  Tryon,  who  sailed  the 
previous  day  from  New  Haven.  This  was  one  of  the  most  de- 
structive conflagrations  occasioned  by  the  British,  during  the 
Revolution.  Two  hundred  houses  were  burnt  just  at  night, 
by  the  order  of  Tryon.  A  thunder  storm  overspread  the 
heavens  soon  after  the  village  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  whole 
scene  was  one  of  terrible  grandeur. 

BRIDGEPORT. 

Distance  from  New  York,  59  miles;  Montreal,  387;  White  Mountains,  273; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  306;  Quebec,  479. 

Bridgeport,  the  third  town  at  which  express  trains  stop,   and 

14  miles  from  Norwalk,  is  a  thriving  city  of  17,000  inhabitants. 

At  the  close  of  the  Revolution  there  were  less  than   a    dozen 

houses  where   the  city  now  stands.     A  horse  railroad  has  been 

built  from  Division  Street  to  Pembroke  Lake,  east  of  Wheeler  & 

Wilson's  sewing  machine  factory.     An  extensive  business  is  done 

in  manufacturing  by  Wheeler  &  Wilson  and  the  Howe  Sewing 

Machine  Companies,  the  New  Haven  Arms  Company,  and  by 

Hotchkiss  &  Sons,  the   latter  manufacturers  of  hardware,  &c. 


BRIDGEPORT.  S3 

There  are  15  churches  in  the  city.  The  South  church,  which 
was  built  in  1861,  will  seat  1,000  persons,  and  its  spire  is  209 
feet  high. 

"Washington  Park  in  East  Bridgeport,  contains  several  acres 
and  has  a  grove  of  native  trees.  Sea  Side  Park,  situated  on 
the  beach  south  of  the  city,  which  has  just  been  laid  out  at  a 
cost  of  $20,000  and  containing  16  acres  of  land,  will  be  one  of 
the  finest  pleasure  resorts  in  the  country.  The  beach  is  claimed 
to  be  the  finest  on  the  Sound  and  ample  accommodations  for 
bathing  have  been  fitted  up. 

Elias  Howe,  the  inventor  of  Howe's  sewing  machine,  and  the 
sewing  machine  needle,  purchased  P.  T.  Barnum's  grounds  at 
Iranistan,  after  his  dwelling  burnt,  several  years  since,  and  is 
about  to  build  a  magnificent  residence.  Mr.  Barnum's  home- 
stead, Lindencroft,  is  situated  a  short  distance  west  of  Bridge- 
port, in  the  town  of  Fairfield. 

Chas.  S.  Stratton,  better  known  as  Gen.  Tom  Thumb,  was 
born  in  Bridgeport  Jan.  4,  1832.  He  weighed  nine  pounds  at 
birth,  and  continued  to  grow  until  seven  months  old,  when,  from 
some  unexplained  cause,  he  ceased  to  increase  in  size  and 
weight.  His  hight  is  28  inches.  In  1844  he  visited  Europe 
and  has  had  the  honor  of  appearing  before  nearly  all  the 
crowned  heads  of  the  old  world.  In  1863  he  was  married  to 
Miss  Lavinia  Warren,  a  dwarf  of  about  his  own  stature.  The 
parents  of  the  General  have  had  two  other  children  who  have 
reached  the  usual  hight. 

The  Nau«atuck  Railroad  extendinoj  to  Winsted,  62  miles,  and 
the  Housatonic,  extending  to  Pittsfield,  110  miles,  intersect  the 
New  York  and  New  Haven  Railroad,  the  former  at  this  place^ 
and  the  latter  at  Naugatuck  Junction,  east  of  Housatonic  River., 
The  trains  on  this  road  run  into  Bridgeport. 

Stratford,  about  four  miles  from  Bridgeport,  is  a  pleasant, 
rural  village.  The  principal  street,  about  one  mile  in  length,  is 
ornamented  with  fine  shade  trees.  Gen.  Wooster,  killed  at 
Ridgefield  in  the  Revolution,  was  a  native  of  this  town. 


34 


THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 


MILFORD. soldiers'   MONUMENT. 

Milford,  65  miles  from  New  York  and  8  from  Bridgeport,  is  a 
quiet  but  beautiful  town.     It  contains  some  elegant  private  resi- 
dences, and  the  large  elms  which  line  the  principal  streets  give 
the  place  a  pleasant  and  ancient  appearance.  .•  In  Jan.  1777  two 
hundred  American  soldiers  in  a  sick  and  dying  condition,  were 
brought  from  a  British  prison  ship  at  New  York,  and  suddenly  cast 
on  shore  near  this  place.     They  were  cared  for  by  the  inhabitants', 
of  the  village,  but  in  less  than  a  month  46  of  them  died  and  t 
were  buried  in  one  common  grave.     Near  the  railroad,  in  th^  ! 
old  cemetery,  east  of  the  depot,  a  freestone  monument,  30  feet 
high,  has  been  erected  to  theii'  memory.     It  can  be  seen  from ' 
the  cars,  north  of  the  track. 


WEST  ROCK. THE  JUDGES'  CAVE. 

As  the  traveler  approaches  New  Haven  from  New  York,  he 
will  notice  West  Rock,  to  the  north,  which  is  from  three  to  four 
hundred  feet  high.  The  village  of  Westville  is  situated  at  its 
base  and  the  church  _  spires   are  seen  from  the  cars.     This  is 


EAST   ROCK. 


35 


little  more  than  two  miles  from  the  city  of  New  Haven.  On 
the  summit  of  West  Rock  is  the  celebrated  Judges'  Cave,  where 
the  regicides,  GofFe  and  Whallej,  two  of  the  judges  who  con- 
demned King  Charles  I,  concealed  themselves  when  pursued  by 
the  King's  officers.  It  is  not  a  cave,  strictly  speaking,  but  an 
aperture  in  the  rocks,  which  afforded  shelter  to  the  regicides. 
Upon  the  rocks  are  engraved  these  words,  "  Opposition  to  tyrants 
is  obedience  to  God."  Goffe  and  Whalley,  previous  to  their 
concealment  on  West  Rock,  resided  in  New  Haven,  but  their 
arrest  l^eing  ordered,  they  were  obliged  to  flee  from  the  citv. 


EAST   ROCK. 

East  Rock,  two  miles  east  of  West  Rock,  and  a  mile  north  east 
of  New  Haven,  is  frequently  visited.  It  is  about  the  same  hight 
as  West  Rock  and  the  view  of  New  Haven  and  the  Sound  from 
its  summit  is  grand  and  beautiful.  A  better  view  of  East  Rock 
from  the  cars  is  had  after  the  train  leaves  New  Haven  for  Hart 
ford  and  Sprmgfield,  a  short  distance  out  of  the  city. 


36  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

NEW   HAVEN. 

Distance  from  New   York,  74  miles;  Montreal,   372;  White  Mountains,  258 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  291;  Quebec,  464, 

On  approaching  New  Haven  the  tourist  will  observe  the 
church  spires  on  the  Public  Square,  the  City  Hall  and  other 
public  buildings  on  the  left.  To  the  right  is  Long  Wharf,  and 
the  Light  House  in  the  distance.  Chapel  Street,  on  w^hich  a 
larger  part  of  the  mercantile  business  is  done,  passes  over  the 
railroad  at  the  north  end  of  the  depot.  To  reach  the  Public 
Square  and  the  College  buildings,  take  Chapel  Street  and  a 
walk  of  five  minutes,  to  the  west,  will  bring  you  to  them, 
located  in  the  best  part  of  the  city.  The  magnificent  elms,  over- 
arching the  walks,  and  the  general  neatness  of  the  city,  at 
once  attract  the  attention  of  the  visitor,  leaving  an  agreeable 
impression  of  the  place  upon  his  mind. 

New  Haven  was  settled  in  1638,  by  a  company  of  exiled 
Englishmen  from  London  and  vicinity,  who  had  been  merchants, 
and  it  is  said  that  this  was  the  most  wealthy  colony  that  had 
come  to  this  country.  The  city  was  originally  laid  out  in  a  plot 
half  a  mile  square.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  extensive 
plain  at  the  head  of  the  bay  which  extends  four  miles  in  from 
the  Sound.  North  of  the  city  are  high  lands  overlooking  it  and 
the  Sound,  the  most  prominent  of  which  are  East  and  West 
Rocks.  Its  public  squares  and  ancient  elms  add  greatly  to 
the  beauty  of  the  city,  giving  it  an  appearance  unlike  any  other 
place  in  this  country,  and  as  one  walks  underneath  those  living 
arches  of  green  it  is  suggested  that  New  Haven  is  truly  entitled 
to  the  name  of  "  Elm  City,"  by  which  it  is  familiarly  known. 

The  view  in  Temple  Street,  which  extends  through  the 
Public  Square,  north  and  south,  is  particularly  striking.  For  a 
long  distance  the  broad  elms  form  a  magnificent  arch,  more  per- 
fect and  beautiful  than  could  be  made  by  the  hand  of  man. 
The  view  selected  for  illustration  by  the  artist  is  from  the  center 
of  the  Green,  looking  north. 


NEW    HAVEN. 


37 


^TEMPLE    STREET,   NEW   HAVEN,    CONN. 

The  Public  Square,  or  Green,  as  it  is  frequently  called, 
situated  between  Chapel  and  Elm  Streets  on  the  south  and 
north,  and  College  and  Church  Streets  on  the  west  and  east, 
contains  1 6  acres.  Temple  Street  extends  through  it  from  north 
to  south,  and  the  elms  are  so  large  that  a  complete  arch  is  formed 
in  the  center.  In  this  Square  on  the  west  side  of  Temple  Street 
are  Trinity,  Center  and  North  churches.  Farther  west  is  the 
State  House,  built  in  the  Grecian  Doric  style.  The  basement  is 
cased  with  Sing  Sing  marble  and  the  walls  above  are  stuccoed. 
The  Legislature  holds   sessions  here  in  the  even  years.     Its 


38  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

other   sessions  are   held   at  Hartford,  where  all  of  the    State 
archives  are  kept. 

Yale  College,  fronting  this  square  on  the  west  and  occupying 
fourteen  buildings,  is  one  of  the  leading,  if  not  the  best,  educa- 
tional institutions  in  this  country.     It  was  founded  in  1700,  and 
in  1702  it  held  its  first  commencement  at  Saybrook.     It  was 
removed  to  New  Haven  in  1716,  and  received  its  name  from 
Elihu  Yale,  one  of  its  most  Mberal  patrons,  who  was  born  in 
New    Haven,  and   afterwards  emigrating  to  the  East   Indies? 
became  Governor  of  Fort  George.     Alumni  Hall,  built  of  Port- 
land freestone,  at  a  cost  of  $27,000,  is  a  fine  structure.     The 
first  floor  is  occupied  by  meetings  of  graduates  and  around  this 
room  are  hung  portraits  of  distinguished  men,  educated  in  the 
College,  and  others  who   have    contributed  to  its  endowment. 
The  upper  story  is  used  by  the  two  College  societies.     But  the 
most  magnificent  building  connected  with  the  College  is  the  one 
built  by  Mr.  Augustus  R.  Street  of  New  Haven,  at  a  cost  of 
not  less  than  $150,000,  which  is  to  be  used  as  a  depository  and 
school  of  fine  arts.     The  historical  paintings  of  the  great  battles 
in  the  Revolution,  by  Col.  John  Trumbull,  son  of  the  Governor 
of  Connecticut  during  the  war  for  Independence  and  an  aid  to 
Gen.  Washington,  which  for  many    years  have  been   kept  in 
Trumbull  Gallery,  are  to  be  removed  to  this  building.     These 
are  the  original  paintings,  and  copies  of  them  are  *now  in  the 
rotunda  of  the  National  Capitol.     Trumbull  Gallery  was  erect- 
ed over  the  spot  where  Col.  Trumbull  was  buried. 

Of  the  public  buildings  of  which  New  Haven  may  feel  proua 
is  the  City  Hall,  situated  on  Church  Street,  fronting  the  Square 
on  the  east.  It  was  completed  in  1862,  at  a  cost  of  $100,000. 
Henry  Austin  of  New  Haven  was  its  architect,  and  the  contract- 
ors for  building  it  were  Perkins  &  Chatfield  of  the  same  city. 
The  building  is  of  the  Continental  Gothic  style,  91  feet  front  by 
137  feet  deep.  It  was  built  of  Portland  and  Nova  Scotia  stone, 
laid  alternately  in  courses.  The  tower  is  built  of  stone,  84  feet 
from  the  ground,  surmounted  by  a  spire  66  feet,  making  the 


NEW     HAVEN. 


39 


whole  hight  150  feet.  The  spire  is  slated  and  contains  a  fire 
alarm  bell  weighing  6,117  pounds,  four  illuminated  clock  dials* 
each  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  an  observatory  or  watch  tower. 
The  building  is  occupied  by  offices,  city  court,  common  council 
chamber,  &c.  Mr.  Austin's  plans  were  adopted  after  several 
others  had  been  examined,  and  the  builduig  is  creditable  to  his 
taste  and  skill  as  an  architect. 

There  are  nearly  40  churches  in  the  city  and  the  population 
is  about  50,000.  In  1800  the  population  was  only  a  little  over 
5,000.  A  large  variety  of  manufacturing  is  done  in  the  city, 
but  the  most  important  is  that  of  carriages.  There  are  between 
40  and  50  firms  engao^ed  in  the  business. 

Here  have  lived  and  died  some  of  our  country's  most  eminent 
men.  In  the  cemetery  on  Grove  Street  are  the  graves  of  Roger 
Sherman,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
Noah  Webster,  author  of  Webster's  Dictionary  and  other  books, 
Ezra  Stiles  and  Timothy  Dwight,  Presidents  of  Yale  College, 
Pierpont  Edwards,  Chief  Justice  of  Connecticut,  James  Hill- 
house,  fifty  years  treasurer  of  Yale  College  and  sixteen  years 
United  States  Senator  from  Connecticut,  Timothy  Pitkin,  the 
historian  and  United  States  Senator,  Chauncey  A.  Goodrich — 
"  Peter  Parley,"  Margaret  Arnold,  wife  of  the  traitor,  Benedict 
Arnold,  Eli  Whitney,  inventor  of  the  cotton  gin  and  many 
others  more  or  less  distinguished  in  various  walks  of  life.  Col. 
John  Dixwell,  one  of  the  judges  who  condemned  King  Charles 
I,  lived  in  New  Haven,  assuming  the  name  of  James  Davids. 
He  died  at  the  age  of  82  and  was  buried  in  the  rear  of  Center 
church,  on  the  Public  Square,  where  a  monument  has  recently 
been  erected  to  his  memory  by  his  descendants. 

James  Hillhouse,  who  for  so  long  a  time  was  treasurer  of  Yale 
College  and  to  whom  New  Haven  is  indebted  for  its  noble  elms, 
was  very  tall  and  striking  in  personal  appearance.  His  com- 
plexion was  so  swarthy  that  some  thought  he  had  Indian  blood 
in  his  veins.  He  frequently  favored  in  a  humorous  way  this 
idea.     While  a  member  of  the  United  States  Senate,  a  southern 


40  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

man  challenged  him  for  remarks  made  in  debate.  He  accepted 
it,  but  said  as  the  choice  of  weapons  fell  to  him  he  should  select 
tomahawks  !  The  duel  was  not  fought.  One  day  while  stand- 
ing on  the  steps  of  the  Capitol,  a  drove  of  donkeys  were  passing, 
on  their  way  from  Connecticut,  where  they  were  raised,  to  the 
South.  Randolph,  who  was  with  him  said,  '•''there  are  some  of 
your  C07istUiie?its"  "  Yes,"  repUed  Hillhouse,  " they  are  go- 
ing to  be  schoolmasters  in  Virginia." 

New  Haven  formerly  had  considerable  direct  trade  with  for- 
eign countries,  and  long  wharf,  commendng  at  the  foot  of  Fleet 
Street  and  extending  into  the  harbor  to  the  channel,  3,943  feet, 
is  the  longest  wharf  in  this  country. 

THE  NEW  HAVEN  HOTEL,  NEW  HAVEN,  CONN. 

The  New  Haven  Hotel,  Mr  S.  W.  AlUs,  Proprietor,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  corner  of  Chapel  and  Church  Streets,  within  five 
minutes  walk  of  the  depot.  It  fronts  on  the  Public  Square,  and 
as  it  is  provided  with  all  the  modern  conveniences,  bath  rooms, 
&c.,  visitors  find  it  a  pleasant  place  of  resort.  During  the  sum- 
mer, stages  run  from  the  Hotel  to  Double  Beach  and  Branford 
Point,  7  miles  distant,  and  to  Savin  Rock,  4  miles  west  of  the 
city. 

THE    SHORE    HOUSES. 

Within  a  short  distance  of  New  Haven  are  several  spacious 
and  well  kept  Hotels,  pleasantly  situated  along  the  beach,  that 
have  become  favorite  places  of  resort  during  the  summer  months 
with  those  who  are  fond  of  fishing,  sailing  and  bathing. 

The  nearest  one  to  New  Haven  is  Savin  Rock,  four  miles 
south  west  of  the  city,  and  a  mile  from  West  Haven  depot,  on 
the  New  York  and  New  Haven  Railroad.  Omnibuses  during 
the  summer  run  hourly  from  New  Haven  to  the  Rock  House. 
It  is  a  delightful  spot,  affording  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Sound, 
and  the  beach  is  among  the  best  bathing  places  found  on  the 
Connecticut  shore.     The  Hotel  will  accommodate  one  hundred 


o 

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o 

o 


;.,,!!M:j||    ;,|,,.t.    i'.,|„!  !„■„.., I 


:^- '  i;:i!i  ijilr!"' 


42  THE    CONXECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

and  thirty  guests,  and  communication  can  be  had  with  all  parts 
of  the  country  by  telegraph,  the  lines  having  been  extended  to 
it  from  New  Haven.  The  proprietors  are  Burgess  &  Ren- 
shaw,  well  known  in  their  profession. 

The  Branford  Point  House,  kept  by  D.  M.  King,  is  seven 
njiles  from  New  Haven,  east  of  the  city,  and  is  reached  by  cars 
on  the  New  London  and  New  Haven  Railroad,  which  runs 
within  a  mile  of  the  Hotel,  or  by  stages  from  New  Haven  in  the 
summer.  It  will  accommodate  two  hundrecl  guests  and  has  long 
been  a  favorite  resort  with  persons  residing  in  all  parts  of  the 
country,  from  the  interior  of  New  England  to  the  far  West. 

The  Double  Beach  House,  and  several  others  of  less  capacity, 
have  their  peculiar  attractions  and  many  friends,  and  nowhere 
can  be  found  better  facilities  for  recreation  than  along  the  shore 
of  Long  Island  Sound.  , 

GOING   NORTH. 

Leaving  the  "  City  of  Elms,"  the  train  passes  under  Chapel 
Street,  across  the  stone  bridge  over  Mill  River,  past  East  Rock 
to  the  left  and  the  broad  salt  meadows  to  the  right,  through  the 
village  of  North  Haven,  immediately  beyond  which  the  scenery 
is  of  no  particular  interest,  the  surface  of  the  country  being  level 
and  the  soil  light  and  sandy. 

WALLINGFORD. THE    WALLINGFORD    COMMUNITY. 

Twelve  miles  from  New  Haven,  east  of  the  railroad,  will  be 
noticed  the  village  of  Wallingford,  situated  on  a  commanding 
eminence.  Express  trains  do  not  stop  here.  Quite  an  exten- 
sive business  is  done  in  manufacturing,  and  among  some  of  the 
more  important  establishments  are :  Hall,  Elton  &  Co.,  manu- 
facturers of  German  Silver  ware  ;  Simpson  &  Co.,  German. 
Silver  spoons  ;  Hall,  Miller  &  Co.,  buttons  ;  Albata  Plate  Co.,  &c. 

Lyman  Hall,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, was  a  native  of  Wallingford.  After  graduating  at 
Yale  he  went  to  Georgia,  where  he  established  himself  as  a 


WALLINGFORD. THE    WALLINGFORD    COMMUNITY.        43 

physician.  Taking  an  active  part  in  colonial  affairs  he  was 
chosen  to  the  General  Congress  in  1775,  and  afterwards  Gover- 
nor of  Georgia.  He  died  in  1790  and  was  buried  in  his  adopted 
State.  Just  previous  to  the  rebellion  Georgia  made  Connecti- 
cut a  present  of  his  tombstones  and  they  were  taken  to  Walling- 
ford  and  deposited  in  the  cemetery  south  of  the  depot. 

Situated  on  the  slope  of  "  Mount  Tom,"  an  eminence  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  west  of  Wallingford  Station,  is  a  branch  of 
Oneida  Community  in  Central  New  York,  with  which  it  holds  a 
common  interest.  The  Wallingford  Society  was  organized  in 
1851  with  a  capital  of  $5,500.  Its  present  capital  is  $30,625. 
The  resident  members  average  in  number  45. 

The  primary  object  of  the  Community,  it  is  claimed,  is  the 
religious  culture  of  its  members  in  accordance  with  what  they 
conceive  to  be  the  spirit  and  doctrines  of  the  New  Testament. 
They  believe  in  the  power  of  Christianity  to  save  individuals 
from  all  sin,  from  whence  they  are  called  Perfectionists.  Their 
social  system  includes  full  Communion  of  property,  or  holding 
"  all  things  in  common,"  like  that  of  the  day  of  Pentacost. 

The  domain  comprises  228  acres,  of  which  30  are  in  orchards, 
vineyards  and  small  fruits.  The  strawberry  crop  of  1865,  on 
five  and  two-fifths  acres  amounted  to  850  bushels,  worth  $5,300. 
The  income  of  this  Community,  like  that  at  Oneida,  was  formerly 
chiefly  derived  from  manufactures,  but  the  last  two  years  its 
mechanical  industry  has  been  limited  to  printing.  A  weekly 
paper  called  "  The  Circular^  devoted  to  Christian  Socialism 
and  general  intelligence,  is  published  here,  the  type  setting,  fold- 
ing, mailing,  book-keeping,  and  in  part  the  editing  being  done  by 
women.  Term^  free ;  or  to  those  who  choose  to  pay  for  it  $1,00 
per  year. 

A  new  building  for  publishing  and  educationiil  purposes  was 
erected  in  1865,  at  a  cost  of  $3,500.  Three  young  men  of  the 
Community  have  been  maintained  as  students  in  the  legal  and 
medical  departments  of  Yale  College. 


44  THE   CONNECTICUT  VALLEY   GUIDE. 

This  Community,  being  especially  devoted  to  educational  and 
publishing  interests,  is  not  at  present  self-supporting,  but  depends 
in  part  for  its  maintenance  on  a  subsidy  from  Oneida  Commu- 
nity, and  on  such  contributions  as  are  made  by  outside  friends 
for  the  support  of  a  free  paper. 

The  cost  of  food  and  clothing  during  1865,  per  individual, 
was  $2.40  per  week,  or  thirty-four  cents  per  day,  not  including 
the  ordinary  household  labor  in  preparing  the  articles  consumed. 

THE    HANGING   HILLS. 

The  tourist,  while  near  Wallingford,  will  observe  the  Hang- 
ing Hills,  or  Sentinels  of  the  Valley,  west  of  Meriden.  These 
peaks,  which  seem  to  rise  abruptly  to  considerable  hight,  are  the 
most  elevated  points  of  land  in  the  State,  and  are  the  first  objects 
seen  by  sailors  coming  in  to  Sandy  Hook,  below  New  York. 
A  road  has  been  constructed  through  a  narrow  glen  in  these 
hills,  from  Meriden  to  Berlin,  known  as  Cat  Hole  Pass,  which 
is  much  frequented  by  summer  tourists  and  neighboring  residents. 

MERIDEN. 

Distance  from  New  York,  92  miles;  Montreal,  354;  White  Mountain3,  240 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  262;  Quebec,  446. 

Meriden,  where  all  express  trains  stop,  is  midway  between 

New  Haven  and  Hartford,  it  being  just  18  miles  to  either  place 

It  has  a  population  of  10,000  and  is  one  of  the  most  active  and 

prosperous  towns  in  the  State.     From  1850  to  1860  it  showed 

a  greater  proportionate  increase   in  population  than  any  other 

town  in  Connecticut.     There  is  little  or  no  inherited  wealth  in 

the  town  although  the  assessments  now  amount  to  between  four 

and  five  millions.      Twenty  years  ago  there  was  no  one  residing 

in  the  town  who  was  worth  over  $40,000.     At  the  present  time 

there  are  more'than  a  dozen  residents  whose  property  is  valued 

at  from  $100,000  to  half  a  million  each,  while  there  are  others 

who  have  accumulated   large  estates  by  their  foresight   and 

industry.     Manufacturing  is  the  principal  business  of  the  town, 


MOUNT  LAMENTATION.  45 

there  being  fifty  different  establishments,  and  a  large  variety  of 
goods  are  made  there  and  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  The 
most  extensive  concern  is  that  of  the  Meriden  Britannia  Com- 
pany, whose  factory  stands  east  of  the  railroad  and  near  the 
depot.  The  building  is  466  feet  long,  40  feet  wide  and  three 
stories  high.  In  addition  are  three  buildings  in  the  rear,  each 
one  hundred  feet  long.  The  company  employ  400  hands  and 
include  in  their  manufactures  a  large  variety  of  plated  table 
ware.  A  large  business  is  done  in  the  town  in  manufacturing 
ivory  piano  keys,  ivory  combs,  cutlery,  door  knobs,  lamp  trim- 
mings, balmoral  skirts,  hardware,  castings,  &c.  The  old  town, 
where  the  first  settlement  was  made,  is  delightfully  situated 
on  the  hill,  east  of  the  depot  and  the  large  square  brick  building, 
standing  at  the  head  of  the  street  is  the  Town  Hall.  That 
part  of  the  village  on  the  hill  is  known  as  Meriden  and  that  at 
the  depot  and  west  of  it,  as  "West  Meriden.  Each  village  has  a 
separate  post  office.  There  are  nine  churches  in  the  town — 
three  Congregational,  two  Baptist,  an  Episcopal,  Methodist, 
Universalist,  and  Catholic.  The  State  Reform  School,  a  large 
brick  building,  will  be  noticed  west  of  the  railroad,  and  about  a 
mile  north  of  the  depot. 

MOUNT    LAMENTATION. 

East  of  Meriden  is  a  range  of  mountains  similar  to  the  Hang- 
ing Hills  on  the  west  of  the  town,  known  as  Mount  Lamenta- 
tion, a  not  very  poetical  name,  but  having  its  origin,  it  is  said, 
in  some  sad  local  tradition.  Continuing  north  the  next  stopping 
place  for  express  trains  is, 

BERLIN  JUNCTION. 

The  village  of  Berlin  is  situated  on  a  hill  east  of  the  railroad, 
a  little  way  south  of  the  depot.  From  this  place  are  two  branch 
railroads,  one  extending  north-west  to  New  Britain  two  and  a 
half  miles  distant,  and  the  other  south-east,  ten  miles,  to  Middle- 
town  on  the  Connecticut. 


46  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

NEW  BRITAIN. 

The  church  spires  of  the  town  can  be  seen  from  Berlin  Junc- 
tion. This  is  a  thriving  and  enterprising  place,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  6,000  and  is  pleasantly  situated.  The  principal  business 
is  that  of  manufacturing,  and  among  the  most  prominent  are 
Russell  &  Erwin  Manufacturing  Company — locks  and  builders' 
hardware ;  Stanley  Rule  and  Level  Company — rules,  levels, 
&c. ;  Stanley  works — bolts,  hinges,  &c.;  New  Britain  Knitting 
Company — shirts  and  drawers ;  P.  &  F.  Corbin — cabinet  hard- 
-  ware  ;  North  &  Judd  Manufacturing  Company — harness  and 
saddlery  hardware ;  Landers,  Frary  &  Clark — builders'  hard- 
ware, &c. ;  New  Britain  Lock  Cempany ;  North,  Stanley  & 
Co. — hooks  and  eyes ;  Churchill,  Dana  &  Co. — jewelry ;  Butler 
&  Gross — saddlery  hardware  ;  Judd  &  Blakeslee — sash  fastener 
and  curtain  fixtures ;  Malleable  Iron  Works,  &c.  The  manu- 
facturing is  all  done  by  steam  power  and  has  been  thus  far  suc- 
cesfully  conducted. 

The  village  is  supplied  with  water  brought  two  and  a  half 
miles,  from  Shuttle  Meadow  Lake.  The  fountain  on  the  Green 
is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  country  and  will  throw  a  stream 
to  the  hight  of  140  feet. 

The  State  Normal  School  is  located  in  New  Britain  and  has 
from  eighty  to  a  hundred  pupils. 

MIDDLETOWN. 

Middletown,  although  ten  miles  from  the  main  line  of  travel, 
is  one  of  the  most  desirable  places  for  a  summer  residence  in 
Connecticut.  The  streets  are  broad,  and  the  private  residences 
are  large  and  elegant.  The  city  is  situated  on  a  considerable 
eminence,  sloping  eastward  to  the  river,  and  from  High  Street 
which  extends  north  and  south,  a  fine  view  is  had  of  the  river 
and  the  region  lying  beyond.  On  this  street  is  located  Wes- 
leyan  University,  a  Methodist  institution,  founded  in  1831, 
The  buildings  are  finely  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  street, 
in  front   of  which  is  a   large  shaded  lawn.     The  eminence  on 


THE   MC  DONOUGH   HOUSE.  47 

which  the  University  stands  is  160  feet  above  the  river.  The 
College  buildings  were  •originally  built  for  and  occupied  by  a 
military  school,  under  Capt.  Alden  Partridge,  who  afterwards 
established  a  similar  institution  at  Norwich,  Vt. 

Main  Street  lies  below  High  Street,  running  parallel  with  it, 
and  is  a  short  distance  from  the  river.  The  street  is  broad  and 
has  quite  an  ancient  appearance.  The  Berkley  Divinity  School, 
an  Episcopal  institution,  is  located  on  the  corner  of  Main  and 
"Washington  Streets.  Middletown  is  34  miles  from  the  Sound, 
at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  and  15  miles  from  Hartford. 
During  the  summer  many  New  York  people  have  resided  in  the 
town,  and  as  the  drives  and  scenery  are  good,  and  the  place  easy 
of  access,  either  by  steamboat  or  railroad,  it  will  continue  to 
have  many  admirers.     The  population  is  about  10,000. 

There  are  also  several  large  manufacturing  establishments  in 
the  town  and  among  them  are:  The  Russell  Manufacturing 
Company — rubber  goods,  webbings,  &c. ;  The  Hubbard  Hard- 
ware Company ;  Savage  Fire  Arms  Manufacturing  Company  ; 
two  sewing  machine  manufactories,  &c.  Britannia  ware,  Doug- 
las pumps,  files,  &c.,  are  also  extensively  made. 


THE   MC  DONOUGH   HOUSE. 


This  house,  kept  by  Dickinson  &  Craig,  is  four  stories   high 
and  will  accommodate  150  guests.     It  is  situated  at   the  corner 


48  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

of  Main  and  Court  Streets.     The  rooms  are  large  and  pleasant 
and  it  is  a  favorite  place  with  summer  tourists. 

THE   PORTLAND    QUARRIES. 

Opposite  Middletown  are  the  famous  Portland  freestone  quar- 
ries— the  most  extensive  in  the  world.  They  are  operated  by 
the  Middlesex  Company,  Brainard  &  Co.,  and  Shaler  &  Hall. 
They  employ  from  600  to  800  hands,  100  horses  and  200  oxen,  in 
getting  out  the  stone,  and  40  schooners  in  freighting  it  to  various 
coast  cities  from  Eastport  to  New  Orleans.  In  addition  large 
quantities  are  sent  to  the  interior  by  railroad.  The  quality  of  this 
stone  is  much  superior  to  that  found  at  any  other  quarry.  It 
covers  a  circuit  of  half  a  mile  and  is  supposed  to  be  500  feet  in 
thickness.  It  is  claimed  by  geologists  that  underneath  the  stone 
is  a  strata  of  coal,  but  this  statement,  has  not  yet  been  verified^ 
although  excavations  have  been  made  150  feet  below  the  bed  of  the 
river  where  some  of  the  best  stone  for  building  material  is  found. 

HARTFORD. 

Distance  from  New  York,  110  miles ;  Montreal,  336;  White  Mountains,222;  Lake 

Memphremagog,  255 ;  Quebec,  428. 

A  ride  of  a  few  miles  from  BerHn  Junction  brings  you  within 
sight  of  the  tall  spires  of  Hartford.  East  of  the  railroad,  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  will  be  noticed  the  Sharps  Rifle  Factory, 
where  are  employed  from  600  to  700  hands.  Still  further  north 
and  on  the  same  side  of  the  railroad  is  Trinity  College,  standing 
on  an  eminence  and  fronting  the  east.  Adjoining  the  College 
grounds  on  the  north,  and  south  of  the  depot  and  Asylum  Street, 
is  the  Park,  which  was  purchased  and  laid  out  by  the  city  a  few 
years  since  at  a  cost  of  over  $270,000.  It  contains  30  acres 
and  in  addition  to  this  are  15  acres  on  the  south  belonging  to 
the  College,  which  are  open  in  connettion  with  the  Park,  to  the 
public.  Park  River  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Park 
and  is  crossed  by  several  stone  bridges,  and  that  at  the  junction 
of  Ford  and  Pearl  Streets,  in  sight  of  the  depot,  built  of  Port- 


HARTFOED.  49 

land   freestone,  is  a  beautiful  structure.     The  River  affords  an 
excellent  place  for  skating  in  winter.     A  speaker's  stand,  built 
of  stone,  will  be  seen  to  the  right  and  south  of  the  bridge,  from, 
which    public    addresses    are    sometimes    delivered.     Out-dooj. 
concerts  are  also  given  here  at  stated  periods  in  summer.     The 
grounds  are  neatly  and  tastefully  laid  out,  and  the  whole  is  alike 
creditable  to  the  wisdom  and  liberality  of  the  people  of  the  city. 
Hartford  has  a  population  of  40,000.     In  1800  it  was  only  a 
little  more  than  5,000  and  up  to    1840  it  had   reached   only  a 
little    over    12,000.      Within   the   last    ten   or    fifteen   years 
new  enterprises  have  sprung  up  and  its  growth  has    been  quite 
rapid,  and   at  the  present  time    there  are  few  places  of  its  size 
that  have  so  much  real  and  lasting  prosperity.     Statistics  ehow 
that  it  has  more  wealth  in  proportion  to  its  inhabitants  than  any 
other  city  in  this  country.     It  has  a  large  mercantile  and  manu- 
facturing business,  but  it  is  chiefly  known  abroad  on  account  of  its 
numerous  insurance    companies.     In    this  respect  it  is  the  lead- 
ing  city  in   the    country.     There    are  no   less   than    eighteen 
insurance  companies  in  operation,  with  a  capital  of  $18,000,000, 
and  all  of  them  are  doing  a  large  and  successful  business.     Of 
this  number  eleven    are  devoted   to  fire,  six    to   life  and  one  to 
accident   insurance.     The   latter  is   the  first  of  its   kind  in  the 
country.     Its  moneyed  institutions  stand  equally  high  in  public 
estimation  although  confined  to  a  more  limited  sphere  of  action. 
There  are  twelve  banks  of  issue  with  a  capital  of  $8,000,000, 
and  four  savings  institutions. 

In  Colonial  times,  Hartford  took  a  leading  position,  and  then 
as  well  as  now  was  a  place  of  no  small  consequence.  There 
are  still  many  things  in  existence  in  the  city  that  are  of  histori- 
cal interest,  especially  to  those  having  a  taste  for  the  rare  and 
curious  belonging  to  other  days.  No  one  passing  through  the 
city,  with  time  at  his  command,  should  not  f  lil  of  spending  a 
few  days  in  visiting  its  many  interesting  localities.  He  could  not 
Zo  away  without  feeling  doubly  paid  for  his  time  and  trouble. 
3 


50  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Although  a  severe  gale  in  1856  blew  down  the  famous  Charter 
Oak,  pieces  of  it  are  preserved,  and  at  the  State  House  in  the 
office  of  the  Secretary  of  State,  is  the  identical  charter,  framed 
in  the  wood  of  the  tree  that  once  concealed  it  from  Sir  Edmund 
Andros,  the  first  Governor-general  of  New  England,  who  in 
1686  attempted  to  wrest  it  from  the  people  of  Connecticut. 
The  demand  for  building  lots  has  greatly  changed  the  old  Wyl- 
lys  place,  where  the  Charter  Oak  stood,  situated  east  of  Main 
Street,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  but  a  marble  slab  at  the 
side  of  the  walk  in  Charter  Oak  Place,  hss  been  placed  over 
the  spot  where  the  old  tree  took  root  and  spread  its  noble 
branches. 

The  State  House,  which  in  point  of  beauty  is  hardly  worthy 
of  Connecticut,  was  built  in  1794.  A  new  one  would  have 
taken  its  place  some  years  since  if  the  Legislature  held  all  its 
sessions  here.  In  the  State  Library  are  preserved  many  letters 
from  the  kings  of  England  during  Colonial  times  to  the  Gov- 
ernors in  Connecticut.  The  oldest  one  was  wa'itten  in  1666 
and  bears  upon  it  the  autograph  of  Charles  11.  In  the  Senate 
Chamber  is  the  Governor's  chair  that  was  made  of  wood 
from  the  Charter  Oak.  It  is  handsomely  carved  and  inlaid,  and 
upon  it  is  the  State  Coat  of  Arms.  Here  is  a  full  length,  origi- 
nal painting  of  Washington  by  Stewart.  Here  also  hang  the 
portraits  of  twenty-four  governors,  from  the  John  Winthrop  of 
Colonial  days  to  Gen.  Hawley.  Oliver  Walcott,  Sr.,  whose 
portrait  is  among  the  number,  was  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Dec- 
laration of  Independence,  and  afterwards  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  during  Washington's  and  John  Adam's  administrations. 
In  this  chamber  was  held  the  famous  Hartford  Convention. 

In  the  Historical  Rooms  in  Wadsworth  Athenaeum,  will  be 
found  some  rare  relics  of  olden  times.  Among  them,  Elder 
Wm.  Brewster's  chest,  that  came  over  with  him  in  the  May- 
flower; Miles  Standish's  dinner  pot;  Benedict  Arnold's  watch; 
Gen.  Israel  Putnam's  tavern  sign  and  the  sword  carried  by  him 
at  Bunker  Hill ;  a  link  of  the  chain  stretched  across  the  Hudson 


HARTFORD.  51 

at  West  Point,  in  tlie  Revolution  ;  bomb-shells  that  were  thrown 
into  Stonington  during  the  last  war ;  an  arm  chair  made  in  the 
13th  century  ;  the  vest  and  shirt  of  Col.  Ledyard,  commander  of 
Fort  Griswold  when  surrendered  to  the  British  Sept.  6,  1781, 
and  who  was  massacred  after  the  surrender ;  Nathan  Hale's 
powder  horn,  made  by  him  during  his  college  vacations  ;  a  mor- 
tar captured  at  the  city  of  Mexico ;  the  first  telegraph  message 
sent  in  this  country,  between  Washington  and  Baltimore ;  an  old 
drum  used  at  Farmington  to  call  the  jDCople  to  church  ;  Dr.  E,ob- 
bins'  collection  of  bibles,  one   of  them   printed  in  1478. 

But  of  all  the  rare  and  curious  things  found  here  none  are 
of  more  interest  by  way  of  showing  the  rapid  development  of 
the  country,  than  the  little  six  by  nine  mail  bag  used  m  1775, 
to  carry  the  mail  between  Hartford,  Middletown  and  New 
Haven. 

The  first  settlement  made  in  Hartford  was  by  the  Dutch  in 
1633,  who  landed  on  the  point  of  land  at  the  junction  of  Park 
River  with  the  Connecticut,  where  they  built  a  Fort.  One  of 
the  bricks  used  in  its  construction  is  now  in  the  Historical 
Rooms.  This  place  is  still  known  as  Dutch  Point.  The  first 
English  settlement  was  made  in  1635,  the  settlers  coming  from 
Cambridge,  Mass.  The  first  meeting  house  in  Connecticut  was 
built  at  Hartford  in  1638,  and  some  of  its  timbers  are  said  to 
have  been  used  in  t-he  construction  of  the  present  Center  Con- 
gregational Church.  Thomas  Green  established  the  Connecti- 
cut C our  ant  in  October,  1764,  the  fibrst  paper  and  printing  office 
in  Hartford,  and  John  I.  Wells  received  in  1819  a  patent  for  the 
first  lever  printing  press.  Dr.  A.  Kinsley,  invented  the  first 
steam-engine  ever  made,  in  1797— 9,  and  set  it  running  in  Main 
Street.  He  also  invented  the  first  brick  pressing  machine. 
The  "Mansion  House"  on  Kinsley  Street,  built  in  1796  is 
probably  the  oldest  house  in  this  country,  built  of  pressed  bricks 
that  were  made  here. 

Main    Street,  one  of  the  finest  in  any  New  England  city 
extending  from  north  to  south,  is  two  miles  in  length.      The 


52  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

retail  trade  is  principally  done  here.  State  Street,  extending 
east  from  Main  Street  to  the  River  is  occupied  by  those  doing 
a  wholesale  business  in  groceries,  dye  stuffs,  wool,  tobacco, 
leather  and  iron.  Hartford  is  one  of  the  largest  markets  for 
wool  and  tobacco  of  any  city  in  New  England.  An  extensive 
wholesale  trade  is  done  on  Asylum  Street  in  dry  goods. 

The  factory  built  by  Col.  Samuel  Colt,  for  the  manufacture 
of  his  celebrated  revolvers  was  one  of  the  largest  enterprises 
ever  undertaken.  Since  Colonel  Colt's  death  it  has  been  con- 
ducted by  a  company,  of  which  Brig.  Gen.  Franklin  is  now 
President.  Employment  is  given  to  eight  hundred  hands. 
The  front  building  was  burnt  in  1864,  but  it  was  rebuilt  in 
1866.  The  establishment  is  situated  in  the  south-east  part  of 
the  city,  near  the  Connecticut,  and  is  inclosed  by  a  dyke,  fifty 
feet  broad  at  the  top  and  8,698  feet  in  length.  It  incloses  23 
acres  of  land,  and  cost  over  $80,000.  Col.  Colt  assumed  the 
responsibility  and  built  the  dyke  at  his  own  expense,  but  the 
city  afterward  paid  part  of  the  cost. 

Few  men  had  so  determined  a  purpose,  and  were  so  hard  to 
be  swerved  from  their  line  of  policy  as  Col.  Colt.  Starting  as 
a  poor  boy,  he  worked  his  way  to  fame  and  wealth,  and  when 
he  died  he  left  an  immense  fortune  to  his  wife  and  young  son. 
His  dwelling,  grounds  and  extensive  green  house  on  Wethers- 
field  Avenue,  Avliich  overlook  the  Armory,  built  by  himself, 
surpass  anything  in  the  city.  Within  the  dyke  enclosure  is  a 
colony  of  Swiss,  brought  to  this  country  by  Col.  Colt  to  manu- 
facture willow  ware,  the  material  for  which  is  grown  along  the 
dyke. 

Of  the  public  institutions  may  be  mentioned  the  Wadsworth 
Athenjeum,  Trinity  College,  The  Connecticut  Theological  In- 
stitute, Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  Retreat  for  the  Insane  and 
Hartford  Hospital.  The  Athenaeum,  was  erected  by  contribu- 
tions from  citizens  of  Hartford,  at  a  cost  of  $52,000.  It  was 
constnicted  of  granite  and  is  80  by  100  feet.     In  this  building 


HARTFORD.  53 

are  the  Connecticut  Historical  Eoom?,  Young  Men's  Institute, 
and  the  Watkinson  Library.  Also  rooms  devoted  to  paintings 
and  statuary.  The  Watkinson  Library  is  one  of  reference  and 
no  book  can  be  taken  from  it  except  on  the  written  consent  of 
the  trustees.  It  was  founded  by  David  Watkinson,  who  died 
Dec.  13,  1857,  aged  80  years,  leaving  ^100,000  for  the  pur- 
pose of  establishing  the  library.  Rare  works  were  purchased 
in  Europe,  and  the  library  was  first  opened  to  the  public  in  the 
early  part  of  1866.  The  Young  Men's  Institute  contains 
13,000  volumes  which  can  be  taken  from  the  rooms.  The 
Statuary  Room  on  the  first  floor  contains  the  marbles  and  casts 
made  by  Edward  S.  Bartholomew,  a  native  of  Hartford,  who 
died  abroad  in  1858,  aged  36  years,  after  having  gained  an 
enviable  reputation  as  a  sculptor.  The  Picture  Gallery  con- 
tains about  150  elegant  paintings,  including  Trumbull's  famous 
battle  pieces,  illustrating  scenes  in  the  Revolution.  An  admis- 
sion fee  is  charged  to  the  Statuary  Room  and  Picture  Gallery. 
The  Historical  Rooms  are  open  each  day,  free  to  the  public  and 
the  janitor  m  attendance  will  point  out  to  the  visitor  the  more 
rare  and  curious  specimens  of  antiquity.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylum,  located  on  Asylum  Street,  west  of  the  depot  is  the 
oldest  institution  of  its  kind  in  this  country,  having  been  incor- 
porated in  1816.  The  late  Rev.  T.  H.  Gallaudet,  LL.D.  vis- 
ited Europe  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  best  method  of 
imparting  instruction  to  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  brought  with 
him  on  his  return  M.  Lrairent  Clerc,  a  deaf  mute  who  had  been 
a  successful  teacher  in  Paris,  and  who  acted  as  an  assistant  to 
Mr.  Gallaudet.  It  was  opened  with  seven  deaf  mutes  as 
pupils,  and  the  number  has  since  been  increased  to  275.  The 
main  building  was  erected  in  1820  and  is  130  by  50  feet,  four 
stories  high.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  was  opened  in  1824. 
It  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  on  Washington 
Street,  on  a  gentle  elevation  commanding  an  extensive  view  of 
the  city,  the  river  and  the  valley  beyond.     The  grounds  con- 


54  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

tain  17  acres  and  are  tastefully  ornamented  with  walks  and 
shade  trees.  During  the  40  years  of  its  existence  there  have 
been  admitted  to  it  some  4,000  patients,  more  than  half  of  whom 
were  discharged  as  cured.  The  average  number  of  patients  is 
about  150.  The  Hartford  Hospital  was  dedicated  in  1859. 
The  main  building  is  72  by  48  feet,  three  stories  high,  with 
a  wing  113  by  30  feet.  It  is  built  of  Portland  stone,  and  cost, 
including  grounds,  over  $48,000.  Any  person  paying  $1,000 
at  one  time  will  be  entitled  to  a  free  bed. 

There  are  24  churches  in  the  city — seven  Congregational, 
four  Episcopal,  three  Methodist,  two  Presbyterian,  two  Baptist, 
two  Catholics,  and  one  each  of  Unitarian  and  Universalist, 
Second  Advents  and  Israelite. 

The  Hartford  and  Wethersfield  Horse  Railroad  Company's 

tracks  extend  from    Spring    Grove    Cemetery  through   Main 

Street,  to  Wethersfield,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  and  from  the 

Connecticut  River  west  two  miles,  through  State  and  Asylum 

Streets. 

Hartford  has  a  paid  fire  department  with  four  steam  fire 

engines.  It  is  a  significant  fact  that  since  the  paid  system  went 
into  operation  there  has  not  been  as  many  fires  as  formerly. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Connecticut  River, 
the  reservoir  being  located  on  Garden  Street,  west  of  the  depot. 
Within  ten  years  the  daily  consumption  of  water  has  increased 
from  less  than  half  a  million  gallons  to  about  two  millions. 
Owing  to  the  great  increased  demand  the  commissioners  are 
procuring  a  supply  from  Trout  Brook,  five  miles  west  of 
the  city.  The  fall  from  Trout  Brook  to  foot  of  State  Street  is 
210  feet. 

Of  the  persons  who  have  gained  distinction  in  various  pur- 
suits, who  reside  in  Hartford,  may  be  mentioned  Mrs.  Harriet 
Beecher  Stowe,  Prof.  Stowe,  Rev.  Dr.  Bushnell,  Rev.  Dr. 
Hawes,  Rev.  Dr.  Burton,  Hon.  Gideon  Welles,  U.  S.  Senator 
James  Dixon,  Hon.  Isaac  Toucey,  Ex-Gov.  Thos.  H.  Seymour, 
Hon.    Henry    C.    Demming,   Brevet  Major  Gen.   Joseph    R. 


HARTFORD. 


55 


Hawley,  now  Governor  of  the  State,  and  Rose  Terry,  contribu- 
tor to  the  periodical  hterature  of  the  country.  Gail  Hamilton 
was  formerly  a  teacher  in  the  public  schools  in  this  city. 

Mrs.  Sigourney,  whose  death  occurred  in  1865,  resided  for 
many  years  in  the  dwelling  on  the  south  side  of  Asylum  Street, 
and  next  to  the  railroad.  It  will  be  observed  a  few  rods  south 
of  the  depot.  It  is  now  owned  by  Hon.  Julius  Catlin.  She 
resided  several  years  before  her  death  in  a  cottage  on  High 
Street.  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  resides  on  Sigourney 
Street  in  the  west  part  of  the  city. 

The  repair  shops  of  the  New  Haven,  Hartford  and  Spring- 
field Railroad,  are  located  at  this  place,  a  short  distance  south 
of  the  depot.  The  passenger  depot,  occupied  jointly  by  the 
New  Haven,  Hartford  and  Springfield  and  the  Providence, 
Hartford  and  Fishkill  Railroads  at  this  place  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  country.  It  was  built  of  Portland  freestone,  and 
is  a  large  and  substantial  building. 


THE   ALLYN   HOUSE. 


Hartford  has  several  hotels,  the  largest  and  most  elegant  of 
which  is  the  Allyn  House,  situated  at  the  corner  of  Asylum  and 


i 


56  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

Trumbull  Streets.  It  was  erected  in  1857  at  a  cost  of  $125,- 
000.  It  is  four  stories  high,  with  a  front  of  155  feet  on  Asylum 
Street,  and  105  on  Trumbull.  The  front  is  built  of  Portland 
stone  and  altogether  is  not  surpassed  by  any  hotel  in  New  Eng- 
land. The  first  floor  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  stores,  and 
the  remainder  is  used  for  hotel  purposes.  There  are  accommo- 
dations for  nearly  300  guests.  Everything  connected  with  it  is 
neatly  and  conveniently  arranged,  and  no  pains  have  been 
spared  to  make  this  a  first  class  hotel  in  every  respect.  The 
proprietor,  Mr.  R.  J.  AUyn,  is  courteous  and  obhging,  and 
makes  the  stranger  at  once  feel  at  home. 

Adjoining  the  Allyn  House,  on  the  west,  and  connected  with 
it  by  a  private  entrance,  is  Allyn  Hall,  one  of  the  largest  and 
finest  in  Connecticut.     It  will  seat  1,500  people. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  McAdamized,  and  the  drives 
through  and  about  it  are  unsurpassed.  Among  them  may  be 
mentioned, — to  Tumble  Down  Brook,  eight  miles  west  by  Al- 
bany road  ;  to  Talcott  Mountain,  nine  miles  west ;  to  West 
Hartford,  three  and  a  half  miles ;  to  Wethersfield,  four  miles ; 
to  Glastenbury,  four  miles ;  over  Newington  Mountain,  three 
and  one  half  miles ;  to  Prospect  Hill ;  to  Bloomfield,  and  last  to 
Shipman's  at  Rocky  Hill,  some  seven  miles,  which  by  city 
people  is  considered  an  "  institut'on." 

WINDSOR. 

The  first  English  settlement  in  Connecticut  was  made  at 
Windsor  in  1633.  William  Holmes  and  others  erected  a  house 
on  the  Farmington  River  near  its  mouth,  and  the  land  in  its 
vicinity  is  still  known  as  Plymouth  Meadow.  The  Dutch  Gov- 
ernor at  New  York  sent  a  force  to  assault  the  house  erected  by 
Holmes  and  drive  the  English  away,  but  it  was  so  well  for- 
tified that  the  expedition  returned  without  doing  it,  after 
making  friends  with  the  English.  Roger  Wolcott,  Governor  of 
Connecticut  from  1751  to  1754,  and  Oliver  Ellsworth,  Senator 


SOUTH   WINDSOR.  57 

and  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States,  were  born  in  this  town. 
Windsor  is  a  pleasant  country  village,  but  is  not  a  place  of 
much  business. 

SOUTH    WINDSOR. 

South  Windsor,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut, 
and  six   miles    north    of  Hartford,  is    distinguished   as  being 
the    birth   place    of  Jonathan    Edwards,  the   great   American 
divine,  John  Fitch,    the  inventor  of  the  steamboat,  and  Oliver 
Wolcott,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
and  Governor  of  Connecticut  in  1796.     During  the  Eevolution- 
ary  war  many   prisoners  were  sent   here    for  safe  keeping,  and 
among  them  were  William  Franklin,  the  royal  governor  of  New 
Jersey,  and  son  of  Dr  Franklin,  Gen.  Hamilton  and  Gen.  Pres- 
cott.     Gov  Franklin  was  quartered  at  the  house  of  Lieut.  Dig- 
gin,  about   a   mile  south  of  the  Congregational   church,  where 
with  his  servants,  he  lived  in  princely  style.     He  was  extremely 
fond  of  sour  punch,  and  in  a  bower  situated  in  a  retired  spot,  back 
of  the  street  near  Podunk  Brook,  he  prepared  and  served   his 
favorite   beverage  to  the    French  visitors,  who  styled   it  "  one 
grand  contradictionr     South  Windsor  was  the  headquarters 
of  Gen.  LaFayette,  in  1788,  after  the  project  of  invading  Can- 
ada had  been  abandoned,  and  he  remained  at  the  house  of  Mr. 
Porter  during  his  stay  in    town,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
south  of  the  Congregational   churcli,  which  was   provided   for 
defense  by  port-holes  for  muskets.     Many  of  the  elm  trees  now 
standing  were  set  out  by  the  British  and    Hessian   prisoners  at 
the  suggestion  of  Gen.  LaFayette,  who  held  one  end  of  the  line 
while  Mr.  Porter  held    the  other.     The    trees  were    planted  in 
rows  parallel  with   the  street.     While  LaFayette  resided   here 
he  was  visited  by  Washington  and   in   order  to  do  honor  to  the 
occasion  he  requested  Lieut.  King   to  appear   with  a  company 
of  mounted   men.     Forty-two   men  were    mustered,  equipped 
somewhat  ludicrously  with  sheep  skiijs  for  saddles  and  canes  for 
3* 


58  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

swords,  and  LaFayette  introduced  them  as  follows :  "Gen. 
"Washington,  I  presume  you  are  acquainted  with  this  troop.'* 
The  General  replied,  "  I  do  not  remember  that  I  ever  before 
had  the  honor  of  seeing  them."  Much  to  Washington's  amuse- 
ment, LaFayette  expressed  his  surprise,  remarking,  that  they 
had  seen  much  service  and  were  known  as  the  "  Old  Testament 
Guard." 

THE  STONE  BRIDGE,  NEAR  WINDSOR. 

North  of  Windsor  station  the  railroad  company  are  building 
across  Farmington  River  a  substantial  stone  bridge,  450  feet  in 
length,  with  seven  arches,  at  a  cost  of  $40,000. 

WINDSOR    LOCKS. 

A  few  miles  further  north,  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut  is 
the  manufacturing  village  of  Windsor  Locks.  The  water  power 
is  furnished  from  a  canal  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  five 
miles  in  length,  that  was  built  many  years  ago  around  Enfield 
Falls,  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  navigation  of  the  Con- 
necticut. Sloops  and  small  steamboats  laden  with  merchandise 
going  to  towns  higher  up  the  Connecticut,  used  to  pass  through 
the  canal  and  thence  around  the  rapids  in  the  river.  Since  the 
construction  of  the  railroad  this  canal  has  become  of  no  use  so 
far  as  its  original  purpose  is  concerned,  but  the  ingenuity  of  man 
has  seized  upon  it  and  compelled  it  to  contribute  to  his  material 
wants. 

Here  are  located  the  Seymour  Paper  Company,  manufac- 
turers of  Printing  and  Envelope  paper;  J.  Francis  &  Co.'s 
Rolling  Mills ;  the  Foundry  of  H.  A.  Converse,  the  Spool  Cot- 
ton manufactory  of  L.  M.  Pinkham,  the  Chuck  mills  of  Horton 
&  Son  and  the  Manilla  paper  mill  of  C.  H.  Dexter. 


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M;li 


60  THE   CONN^ECTICUT  VALLEY   GUIDE. 

THE    GREAT     IROX     BRIDGE    ACROSS     THE     CONNECTICUT    AT 

WAREHOUSE    POINT. 

Passing  Windsor  Locks  you  come  to  one  of  the  finest  bridges 
in  this  country — the  great  Iron  Truss  Bridge  across  the  Con- 
necticut at  Warehouse  Point,  midway  between  Hartford  and 
Springfield.  It  is  1,525  feet  long,  weighs  including  track  and 
floor  beams  upon  which  the  track  rests,  about  800  tons,  and  cost 
$265,000.  The  chief  engineer  of  this  noble  structure  was  Mr. 
James  Laurie,  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  who,  for  several  years 
w^as  President  of  the  board  of  Civil  Engineers  in  this  country, 
and  for  a  time  at  the  head  of  the  Government  engineers  in 
Nova  Scotia.  He  was  assisted  by  Theo.  G.  Ellis,  Engineer  of 
the  Hartford  Dyke.  The  plans  were  made  in  1862  and  sub- 
mitted to  a  Philadelphia  firm,  but  owing  to  the  great  demands 
upon  American  iron  workers,  for  Government  work,  for  war 
purposes,  it  could  not  be  built  in  this  country  as  soon  as 
required.  After  some  delay  it  was  decided  to  have  the  bridge 
built  in  England,  and  in  January,  1864,  Mr.  Laurie  sailed  for 
Europe  to  give  out  the  contracts.  On  arriving  in  England  he 
proceeded  to  Manchester  where  he  contracted  with  William 
Fairbairn  &  Sons,  they  agreeing  to  make  the  iron  for  the  bridge 
by  the  first  of  December.  Subsequently  it  appearing  that  they 
w^ould  not  be  able  to  finish  the  work  as  soon  as  specified,  part 
of  it  was  given  to  the  London  Engineering  and  Iron  Ship 
Building  Company.  In  about  a  year  the  bridge  was  shipped 
from  Liverpool  and  London,  and  in  June,  1865,  work  upon  its 
erection  was  begun.  About  one  hundred  workmen,  many  of 
whom  came  specially  from  England,  were  employed  and  in 
Feb.  1866  it  was  completed. 

There  are  seventeen  spans  in  the  bridge,  the  longest  of  which, 
the  channel  span,  in  the  center  of  the  river,  is  177^  feet.  Eight 
of  the  other  spans  are  88  J  feet  each,  another  is  140  feet,  another 
76f  feet,  another  43  feet  and  another  25|-  feet,  making  the 
exact  total  length  of  the  bridge  1,524^  feet. 


GREAT    IRON    BRIDGE.  61 

« 

Each  span  consists  of  a  wrought  iron  truss,  composed  of  hori- 
zontal plates,  angle  and  T  iron.  The  width  of  the  deck  of  the 
bridge  upon  which  the  track  rests  is  17f  feet.  Of  the  iron  truss, 
canal  span,  16  feet,  of  the  channel  span  12f  feet,  and  of  the 
others,  lOA^  feet.  The  hight  of  the  truss — channel  span,  16| 
feet,  canal  span  12^  feet,  and  of  the  others  11  feet. 

The  horizontal  plates  in  the  four  chords  are  from  15  to  25 
feet  in  length,  from  one-fourth  to  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  and  about  eight  inches  in  width.  At  the  joints  a 
short  plate  is  riveted  to  each  side  of  the  main  plate,  and  is  so 
arranged  that  no  two  joints  meet  in  the  same  place.  The  plates 
and  angle  iron,  which  are  riveted  together,  give  each  chord  a 
trough  like  shape.  From  the  upper  to  the  lower  chord  on  each 
side  of  the  bridge,  are  iron  posts,  made  of  plate,  angle  and  T  iron. 
Across  the  posts  on  an  angle  of  45  degrees,  extending  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top  chord  on  each  side  of  the  bridge,  are  bars  of  a 
few  inches  in  width.  In  the  short  span  these  bars  cross  but  one 
post  to  which  it  is  firmly  riveted,  in  the  next  longer  two  posts, 
and  in  the  channel  span  three.  The  posts  being  several  feet 
apart,  from  five  to  five  and  three-fourths  feet,  they  give  a  lattice 
like  appearance  to  the  bridge.  Extending  through  the  truss 
are  lateral  and  vertical  tie  bars  which  help  support  it. 

The  spans  are  securely  fastened  to  the  piers  below.  One 
end  of  each  span  rests  upon  four  iron  rollers  which  turn  upon 
an  iron  bed-plate,  and  between  the  ends  of  the  spans  is  a 
space  of  an  inch  and  a  half,  allowed  for  expansion.  These  rollers 
are  upon  every  other  pier — the  ends  of  the  spans  upon  the  inter- 
vening ones  are  firmly  secured  to  the  masonry,  so  there  can  be 
no  possibility  of  the  bridge  getting  out  of  place. 

The  frame  of  the  bridge  was  all  put  together  in  England 
before  shipping  and  then  part  of  it  taken  down.  This  was 
done  to  detect  any  mistake  that  might  have  occurred. 

There  are  175,000  rivets,  from  three-fourths  to  one  and  one- 
eighth   inches  in  diameter,  in   the  bridge.     Part  of  them  were 


62  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

put  in  by  machinery  in  England  and  the  remainder  by  hand 
while  the  bridge  was  being  erected. 

The  piers  of  the  old  bridge,  which  are  of  Monson  granite,  were 
used,  after  raising  them  to  a  greater  hight,  and  new  ones  were 
built  between  the  old,  doubling  the  number.  To  build  the 
bridge  and  maintain  the  old  one  so  as  not  to  delay  the  trains, 
while  the  work  was  in  progress  was  an  undertaking  of  no  small 
magnitude.  It  was  however  accomplished  and  of  the  22  to  28 
trains  that  crossed  the  bridge  daily  not  a  detention  of  a  single 
minute  was  caused  to  them.  The  lower  chords  of  the  iron 
bridge  were  placed  upon  blocking  two  feet  in  thickness,  which 
rested  upon  the  piers,  and  during  Sunday  when  there  was  no 
train  to  pass  the  completed  span  was  lowered  to  its  place  by 
means  of  hydraulic  jacks. 

The  weight  of  the  bridge,  not  including  track  and  floor  beams, 
is  624  tons  and  its  cost  in  England  in  gold  was  $85.58  per 
ton.  In  New  York  in  currency,  its  cost  was  $241.54  per  ton. 
The  freight  from  London  and  Liverpool  to  New  York  was 
$3.75  per  ton.  Some  of  the  other  items  of  cost  are  as  follows  : 
Freight  from  London  and  Liverpool  to  New  York,  $2,342.10  ; 
duty,  $30.12  per  ton;  making  a  total  of  $18,796.40 ;  paid  pre- 
mium on  gold,  $73,120.68;  cost  of  bridge  in  England,  $53,- 
400.22  ;  cost  of  iron  work,  erected,  $173,109.62  ;  cost  of  labor 
for  erection,  including  tools,  $16,985.34;  cost  of  masonry,  $15,- 
744.07.     It  will  be  seen  by  this  that  the  premium  on  gold  which 

was  then  in  the  vicinity  of  100,  amounted  to  $19,720.46  more 
than    the    cost  of    the   bridge   in    England,    when   ready   for 

shipment. 

The  track  passes  over  the  top  of  the  bridge,  excepting  the 
span  over  the  canal,  and  the  view  up  and  down  the  river  is  very 
fine.  The  distance  from  the  top  of  the  rails  to  low  water  mark 
below  is  47  feet. 

This  is  the  most  extensive^ iron  ,bridge  in  the  United  States, 
but  for  several  years,  the  New  York  Central,  Baltimore  and 
Ohio,  and  Pennsylvania  Central  Railroads  have  tested  them  on 


WAREHOUSE    POINT.  63 

a  smaller  scale  and  have  become  satisfied  of  their  durability. 
It  is  thought  that  this  bridge  will  last  a  century.  The  strength 
of  the  bridge  must  be  very  great,  and  it  is  estimated  that  a  con- 
tinuous line  of  locomotives,  from  one  shore  to  the  other,  would 
not  exceed  more  than  one- seventh  of  the  weight  that  it  is 
capable  of  sustaining. 

Two  wooden  bridges  have  been  built  in  this  place — the  first 
one  in  1844,  when  the  road  was  opened.  It  was  blown  down 
in  October,  1846,  and  rebuilt  in  forty-five  days. 

The  iron  has  all  been  painted  red  and  the  appearance  of  the 
bridge  in  the  distance  is  very  fine.  A  good  view  of  it  can  be 
had  soon  after  the  train  passes  Windsor  Locks,  going  north, 
or  before  it  reaches  Warehouse  Point  going  south.  To  get 
a  correct  estimate  of  its  great  magnitude  one  wants  to  leave  the 
train  and  pass  through  its  entire  length,  underneath  the  railroad 
track.  There  is  a  narrow  plank  on  either  side,  extending 
through  the  bridge,  but  unless  one  has  good  nerves  the  rushing 
waters  below  might  disturb  his  equilibrium. 

During  the  construction  of  the  bridge  no  serious  accident 
occurred.  One  workman  fell  through  a  thirteen  inch  hole  into 
the  river,  a  distance  of  forty  feet  and  struck  in  water  that  was 
only  nine  inches  deep.  He  was  disabled  only  for  a  few  days 
and  then  continued  work  until  the  bridge  was  completed. 

WAREHOUSE    POINT. 

Crossing  the  Connecticut  on  the  iron  bridge  you  come  to 
Warehouse  Point,  a  way  station  at  the  east  end  of  the  bridge  on 
the  bank  of  the  river.  Formerly  this  was  a  place  of  some  note, 
it  being  the  head  of  sloop  navigation.  The  place  received  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  warehouses  for  the  storage  of  merchan- 
dise  were  located  here.  The  boats  unloaded  at  this  place  and 
their  cargoes  were  transferred  to  wagons  and  carried  to  the 
several  towns  farther  up  the  Connecticut. 


64  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

ENFIELD. COL.  HAZARD'S  POWDER  WORKS. THE  SHAKERS. 

Passing   Warehouse    Point,  the  village   of  Enfield  will    be 
noticed   on  the  hill  to    the  east.     This   is  a   quiet,  rural   town, 
overlooking   the  Connecticut  and   the  valley   for  many  miles. 
The  northern  limits  of  the  town  extend  to  the  boundary  line 
between  Connecticut   and   Massachusetts.     Four  miles  east  of 
the  river  is    Hazardville  where  are  located  part  of  the  powder 
mills  of  Col.  A.  G.  Hazard.     He  also   owns   mills  at  Scitico, 
(in  Enfield,)  at  East  Hartford,  and  Canton.     During  the  Rebel- 
lion he  furnished  a  large  quantity  of  powder  for  the  Govern- 
ment, and   England,  during   the    Crimean   war,    purchased   a 
million  and   a  quarter   dollars  worth   of  him.     There   are   no 
powder  works  in  England  so  large  as  those  owned  by  the  Colo- 
nel, and  himself  and  Dupont  make  one-half  of  the  powder  that 
is  manufactured   in    this  country.     The  powder  is  taken  to  the 
magazine,  near  Enfield    station  and  from   there  sent   down  the 
river  in  small  boats.     He  has  been  thirty  years  in  the  business 
and  has  acquired  a  large  property.     His  acquaintance  with  the 
public  men  of  the  country  is  extensive,  and  when  Webster  was 
at  the  zenith  of  his   fame  he  was  among    his  personal   friends. 
Gov.  A.    H.    Bullock   of  Massachusetts   married  one   of  his 
daughters. 

The  Shakers  have  one  of  their  largest  communities  in  this 
town,  six  miles  east  of  the  river.  They  number  several  hun- 
dred members,  and  are   a  very  industrious  and  thriving  people. 

THOMPSONVILLE THE  HARTFORD  CARPET  WORKS. 

Two  miles  north  of  Enfield  bridge,  and  in  the  town  of  En- 
field, is  the  manufacturing  village  of  Thompsonville,  named  in 
honor  of  Col.  Orrin  Thompson,  the  founder  of  the  Hartford 
Carpet  Works  located  at  this  place.  The  manufacture  of  car- 
pets was  begun  here  in  1828  and  this  establishment  is  now  one 
of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  country.  The  varieties  made 
are  Ingrain  and  Venetian,  and  the  quality  is  said  to  be  superior 
to  anything  found  in  the  American  market,  so  much  so  that 


LONGMEADOW SPRINGFIELD. 


65 


foreign  Ingrain  carpets  have  been  superseded  by  them.  The 
machinery  at  these  mills  is  driven  entirely  by  steam,  three 
engines,  one  of  them  500  horse  power,  being  used  for  that  pur- 
pose. The  consumption  of  coal  in  a  single  year  amounts 
to  3000  tons.  There  are  in  the  mills  127  Ingrain  and  14  Ve- 
netian power  looms,  and  there  are  manufactured  daily  6000 
yards  of  Ingrain  carpeting.  The  wool  consumed  is  all  im- 
ported, as  there  are  no  breeds  of  sheep  in  this  country  produc- 
ing a  quality  sufficiently  coarse  to  be  used  in  manufacturing 
carpets.  It  requires  6000  pounds  of  wool  per  day  to  keep  the 
mills  in  full  operation.  The  capital  of  the  Company  is  $1,500,- 
000  ;  President  and  Treasurer,  Geo.  Roberts,  Hartford ;  Super- 
intendent at  Thompsonville,  J.  L.  Houston.  The  Company 
also  have  mills  at  TariffviUe,  where  they  manufacture  Brussels 
carpeting. 

The  Enfield  Manufacturing  Company,  with  a  capital  of 
$250,000  employ  300  hands,  and  manufacture  shirts,  hosiery,  &c. 

LONGMEADOW. 

"Within  four  miles  of  Springfield,  on  the  plateau,  east  of  the 
railroad,  will  be  noticed  the  village  of  Longmeadow.  The 
boundary  line  between  Massachusetts  crosses  the  Connecticut 
between  this  place  and  Thompsonville.  Longmeadow  was  set- 
tled in  1644,  eight  years  after  the  settlement  of  Springfield. 

SPRINGFIELD. 

Distance  from  New  York,  134  miles;  Montreal,  310;  White  Mountains,  184; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  229;  Quebec,  402, 

In  approaching  Springfield  from  the  south,  as  the  train 
passes  around  the  bend  in  the  river,  the  city  will  be  noticed  on 
the  left,  and  then  again  on  the  right,  spread  out  over  the  hill- 
side, more  than  a  mile  distant.  The  most  prominent  buildings 
to  be  seen  are  the  United  States  Arsenal  on  Armory  Square, 
and  St.  Michael's  (Catholic)  Church,  west  and  below  it.  The 
city  contains   25,000   inhabitants  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in 


66  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

wealth  and  importance.  It  is  compactly  built  for  a  provincial 
city  and  numbers  among  its  inhabitants  some  of  the  most 
enterprising  people  in  New  England. 

In  a  comparative  sense  Springfield  has  not  been  so  much 
distinguished  for  its  manufactories  as  for  being  a  great  natural 
commercial  center.  A  few  years  ago,  with  few  exceptions, 
very  little  manufacturing  was  done  within  what  are  now  the 
limits  of  the  city ;  but  more  recently  the  manufacturing  inter- 
ests have  been  greatly  increased.  Here  center  long  lines  of 
railways,  from  north,  south,  east  and  west,  with  direct  commu- 
nication with  all  the  large  cities  of  the  country,  while  for  nearly 
fifty  miles  on  either  line,  out  of  Springfield,  and  contributory  to 
its  trade  and  business,  are  large  and  thriving  towns. 

The  United  States  Armory,  which  was  established  here  in 
1795,  has  probably  been  the  chief  source  of  prosperity  to 
the  town,  although  the  number  of  hands  employed  previous 
to  the  Rebellion  seldom  exceeded  400.  After  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Harper's  Ferry  Armory,  early  in  the  war,  a  large 
force,  at  one  time  3,200  men,  were  kept  at  work  divided  into 
two  sets — one  party  working  at  night,  and  another  during 
the  day.  There  were  manufactured  during  the  four  years 
of  the  Rebellion,  from  April,  1861,  to  June  30,  1865,  791,134 
guns  of  various  patterns,  nearly  all  of  which  were  borne  over 
many  a  bloody  battle  field  in  defense  of  free  institutions.  This 
is  a  larger  number  of  muskets  than  was  manufactured  during 
the  first  65  years  of  the  existence  of  the  Armory,  up  to  the 
commencement  of  the  Rebellion.  The  amount  of  disburse- 
ments in  1865  that  passed  through  the  paymaster's  hands,  Mr. 
Edward  Ingersoll,  including  money  and  material  used  at  the 
Armory,  was  $4,677,422,  and  for  the  whole  time  during  the 
war  it  was  over  $12,000,000.  The  two  squares  on  the  hill, 
owned  by  the  Government  comprise  more  than  72  acres. 
The  Arsenal  and  the  shops  in  which  the  muskets  are  made,  ex- 
cepting the  welding  of  the  barrels,  are  located  on  the  western 


THE    ARSENAL.  67 

square  overlooking  tlie  city  and  the  valley  beyond.  It  is 
inclosed  by  an  iron  fence  nearly  nine  feet  high,  and  the  grounds 
are  neatly  and  tastefully  laid  out.  The  view  from  the  top 
of  the  Arsenal  is  particularly  fine,  exceeding  in  some  respects 
that  obtained  from  any  other  point  in  the  city.  The  Arsenal, 
which  is  three  stories-  high,  will  hold  three  hundred  thousand 
muskets,  and  they  are  so  regularly  and  neatly  arranged  in 
columns  that  they  make  a  striking  display.  Some  years  ago 
Longfellow,  after  visiting  the  place  previous  to  the  Rebellion, 
and  when  such  a  thing  seemed  impossible,  wrote  the  following 
lines,  which  were  so  prophetic  and  so  expressive  in  the  por- 
trayal of  the  evils  of  war  and  bloodshed  that  they  will  be  read 
with  renewed  interest  by  every  one  who  has  been  at  the 
Arsenal ; 

THE    ARSENAL    AT    SPRIXGFIELD. 

This  is  the  Arsenal.    From  floor  to  ceiling, 
Like  a  huge  organ,  rise  the  burnished  arms ; 

But  from  their  silent  pipes  no  anthem  pealing 
Startles  the  villages  with  strange  alarms. 

All !  what  a  sound  will  rise — how  wild  and  dreaiy — 
"When  the  death-angel  touches  those  swift  keys  ! 

AVhat  loud  lament  and  dismal  Miserere 
"Will  mingle  with  their  awful  symphonies ! 

I  hear  even  now  the  infinite,  fierce  chorus — 

The  cries  of  agony,  the  endless  groan, 
"Which,  through  the  ages  that  have  gone  before  i;3. 

In  long  reverberations  reach  om'  own. 

On  helm  and  harness  rings  the  Saxon  hammer, 
Through  Cimbric  forest  roars  the  Norseman's  song ; 

And  loud,  amid  the  universal  clamor, 

O'er  distant  deserts  sounds  the  Tartar  gong. 

I  hear  the  Florentine,  who  from  his  palace 
Wheels  out  his  battle-bell  with  dreadful  din , 

And  Aztec  priests  upon  their  teocallis 
Beat  the  wild  war-drums  made  of  serpent's  skin , 


68  THE     CONNECTICUT     VALLEY     GUIDE. 

Tlie  tumult  of  each  sacked  and  burning  village ; 

Tlie  shout  that  every  prayer  for  mercy  drowns ; 
The  soldiers'  revels  in  the  midst  of  pillage , 

The  wail  of  famine  in  beleaguered  towns ; 

The  bursting  shell,  the  gateway  wrenched  asunder, 
The  rattling  musketry,  the  clashing  blade — 

And  ever  and  anon,  in  tones  of  thunder, 
The  diapason  of  the  cannonade. 

Is  it,  O  man,  with  such  discordant  noises, 
With  such  accursed  instruments  as  these. 

Thou  drownest  Nature's  sweet  and  kindly  voices, 
Andjarest  the  celestial  harmonies? 

Were  half  the  power  that  fills  the  world  with  terror. 
Were  half  the  wealth  bestowed  on  camps  and  courts 

Given  to  redeem  the  human  mind  from  error, 
There  were  no  need  of  arsenals  nor  forts ; 

The  warrior's  name  would  be  a  name  abhored ; 

And  every  nation  that  should  lift  again 
Its  hand  against  a  brother,  on  its  forehead 
'  Would  wear  forevermore  the  curse  of  Cain  ! 

Down  the  dark  future,  through  long  generations, 
The  echoing  sounds  grow  fainter  and  then  cease ; 

And  like  a  bell,  with  solemn,  sweet  vibrations, 
I  hear  once  more  the  voice  of  Christ  say,  "  Peace ! " 

Peace ! — and  no  longer  from  its  brazen  portals. 
The  blast  of  war's  great  organ  shakes  the  skies ; 

But  beautiful  as  songs  of  the  immortals, 
The  holy  melodies  of  love  arise. 

The  Water-Shops,  located  about  a  mile  south  east  of  the  Ar- 
senal, are  particularly  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  for  which 
they  were  constructed.  Here  all  the  barrels  are  made  and 
tested. 

Springfield  cannot  boast  of  so  many  pleasant  drives  as  some 
of  the  other  towns  in  its  vicinity,  but  it  has  a  few  charming 


MANUFACTURERS.  69 

views.  That  from  Long  Hill,  in  the  south  part  of  the  city  is  as 
grand  as  it  is  extensive.  The  city  on  the  right,  the  winding 
river  on  the  left,  the  broad  valley,  checkered  with  a  thousand 
fields,  and  the  towering  mountain  peaks  skirting  the  western  hor- 
izon, present  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  scene. 

The  cemetery,  the  principal  entrance  to  which  is  from  Maple 
Street,  has  few  equals  in  natural  beauty,  or  artificial  adornment, 
when  Mount  Auburn  and  Greenwood  are  excepted.  Inroads 
have  been  made  upon  Puritanical  ideas  even  here  in  the  heart 
of  New  England,  and  the  last  resting  places  of  the  dead 
are  now  adorned  by  loving  hands,  stripping  them  of  the  more 
forbidding  aspects  that  once  distinguished  them.  No  one 
should  fail  of  spending  a  few  hours  in  this  secluded  and  beauti- 
ful spot. 

Hampden  Park,  in  the  north  part  of  the  city,  lying  between 
the  Connecticut  River  Railroad  and  the  river,  is  conveniently 
situated  and  comprises  a  large  number  of  acres.  Here  have 
been  held  several  National  Horse  Shows  and  the  County  Agri- 
cultural Fairs.  There  are  no  better  show  grounds  in  New 
England. 

Springfield  is  the  oldest  town  in  Massachusetts  on  the  Con- 
necticut River,  having  been  settled  in  1636  by  a  colony  from 
Roxbury,  and  many  of  the  descendants  still  live  in  the  vicinity. 

The  two  principal  business  streets  are  Main  and  State — 
the  former  running  parallel  with  the  river,  and  the  latter  cross- 
ing it  at  rio;ht  ano-les,  extendinsr  from  the  Connecticut  eastward 
past  the  United  States  Armory.  Many  large  and  magnificent 
brick  blocks  have  oeen  erected  on  Main  Street  within  the  last 
few  years.  During  the  war,  owing  to  the  large  number 
of  workmen  employed  at  the  armory,  few  towns  were  so 
prosperous. 

The  railroads  terminating  here  are  the  New  Haven,  Hartford 
and  vSpringfield,  and  the  Connecticut  River — the  former  62 
miles  in  length,  extending  from  New  Haven  to  Springfield,  and 
the  other  north  from  Springfield  to  South  Vernon,  at  the  State 


70  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

line,  between  Massachusetts  and  Vermont,  a  distance  of  50 
miles.  The  Western  Raih-oad,  connecting  at  Worcester  with 
the  Boston  and  Worcester,  passes  through  Springfield  and 
terminates  at  Albany.  The  distance  to  Boston  and  Albany 
from  Springfield  is  about  the  same,  it  being  about  100  miles 
to  either  place.  Here  are  located  the  repair  shops  of  the 
Western  and  Connecticut  River  Railroads,  giving  employment 
to  a  large  number  of  hands. 

Of  the  several  manufacturing  establishments,  the  largest  and 
most  important  are  the  Wason  Manufacturing  Company,  and 
the  Smith  &  Wesson.  The  former  manufacture  railroad  cars  of 
all  descriptions,  including  passenger,  sleeping,  freight,  coal  and 
horse  railway  cars.  They  employ  350  hands,  and  in  1865 
their  business  amounted  to  $700,000,— $300,000  of  which  was 
for  cars  furnished  to  the  New  Jersey  Central. 

The  cars  used  by  the  Western,  Central  and  Union  Pacific 
Railroads,  divisions  of  the  great  line  across  the  continent,  were 
made  by  them.  The  royal  car,  made  several  years  since 
for  the  Pasha  of  Egypt,  one  of  the  most  elegant  ever  made  in 
this  country,  was  turned  out  at  their  establishment.  The  prin- 
cipal officers  of  the  Company  are,  T.  W.  Wason,  President ;  G. 
C.  Fisk,  Treasurer  and  General  Agent ;  H.  S.  Hyde,  Secretary. 

Smith  &  Wesson  manufacture  five,  six  and  seven  shot 
revolvers,  employing  350  hands.  They  turn  out  350  revolvers 
a  day,  amounting  to  a  million  of  dollars  per  year.  Their 
revolver  is  so  well  known  and  so  much  of  a  favorite  that  up  to 
1866  they  were  two  years  behind  their  orders,  and  now  they 
are  more  than  a  year  behind. 

The  manufacture  and  sale,  at  wholesale  and  retail,  of 
harnesses,  saddles,  trunks,  &c.,  has  become  a  large  business 
in  Springfield  within  the  last  few  years,  and  one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive concerns  is  that  of  W.  H.  Wilkinson,  who,  during 
the  Rebellion  was  largely  engaged  upon  government  work. 
He  employed  at  one  time  as  many  as  400  hands,  and  made  for 
the  Government  during  the  war  $1,500,000  worth  of  harnesses 


MASSASOIT    HOUSE. 


71 


and  saddles.  He  delivered  to  the  Government,  $75,000  worth 
of  work  after  the  fall  of  Richmond.  The  teams  of  the  first  ten 
regiments  that  left  Connecticut  were  equipped  by  him,  and 
he  also  made  the  model  Artillery  harnesses  for  the  Govern- 
ment, a  complete  set  of  which  were  presented  to  each  of  the 
Governments  of  Switzerland  and  Italy.  Mr.  Wilkinson  em- 
ploys one  hundred  hands  at  the  present  time,  and  his  work 
is  sold  in  New  Eno-land,  in  the  West  and  South.  Commencinj; 
at  twenty-one  without  any  capital,  he  has  by  perseverance 
accumulated  a  handsome  property. 

Josiah  Cummings,  formerly  a  partner  wi.th  Mr.  Wilkinson, 
was  also  largely  engaged  upon  Government  contracts  du- 
ring the  Rebellion,  employing  300  to  400  hands  and  making 
a  million  of  dollars  worth  of  work.  He  now  employs  about  a 
hundred  hands,  and  manufactures  harnesses,  saddles  and  trunks. 
His  trade  extends  all  through  the  United  States,  and  his  har- 
nesses are  bought  by  the  most  wealthy  gentlemen  in  the  large 
cities.  He  is  now  manufacturing  as  elegant  and  durable  work 
in  either  branch  of  his  business,  as  can  be  purchased  in  New 
York  or  Boston. 

The  manufacture  of  paper  collars,  envelopes  and  paper 
boxes,  has  become  an  important  business,  and  at  the  present 
time  a  large  number  of  hands  are  employed  upon  this  kind  of 
work  in  Springfield. 


THE    MASSASOIT    HOUSE,    SPRINGFIELD,    MASS. 


72  THE     CONNECTICUT    VALLEY     GUIDE. 

No  hotel  in  New  England  has  acquired  so  extensive  and 
deservedly  good  reputation  as  the  Massasoit  House,  and  very 
few  in  the  country  are  better  known,  and  none  are  better  kept. 
It  is  the  pride  of  its  proprietors,  the  boast  of  every  Massachu- 
setts man  abroad,  and  the  haven  of  rest  to  the  weary  and 
dusty  traveler.  The  experience  of  hotel  life  is  incomplete  to 
all  who  have  not  past  its  portals.  It  is  located  close  to  the 
depot,  and  ample  time  is  given  the  tourist  for  meals.  The  pro- 
prietors, M.  &  E.  S.  Chapin,  have  long  been  engaged  in  the 
hotel  business, — landlords  of  the  Massasoit. 

THE     WEST    SPRINGFIELD     CHURCH ANECDOTE     OF     DR. 

LATHROP A     REMARKABLE     WAGER. 

Leaving  Springfield  for  the  north,  the  West  Springfield 
Church,  standing  on  a  high  bluff,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  will  be  noticed.  This  church  is  seen  for  many  miles  up 
and  down  the  valley.  Here  have  preached  more  Doctors 
of  Divinity  than  at  any  other  country  church  in  New  England, 
and  some  of  them  have  been  quite  distinguished.  Among 
them  were  Rev.  Dr.  Joseph  Lathrop,  Rev.  Dr.  Wm.  B.  Sprague, 
of  Albany,  and  Rev.  Dr.  Thomas  E.  Vermilye,  of  New  York. 
Rev.  Henry  M.  Field,  of  New  York,  editor  of  the  Evangehst, 
son  of  Rev.  Dr.  Field  of  Stockbridge,  preached  here  several 
years.  Dr.  Lathrop,  it  is  said,  was  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble divines  that  ever  lived  in  the  Connecticut  Yalley,  and 
during  his  ministry  of  65  years  he  wrote  five  thousand  sermons, 
seven  octavo  volumes  which  have  been  pubHshed.  An 
anecdote  is  related  of  him  which  is  said  to  be  a  good  illustra- 
tion of  his  character.  A  parishioner,  for  some  trivial  reason 
had  become  very  angry  with  him.  Meeting  him  one  day,  he 
said,  "  Doctor,  have  you  any  religion  ?  "  "  None  to  boast  of,'' 
was  the  laconic  reply. 

Another  anecdote,  concerning  the  erection  of  the  church 
is  told  by  some  of  the  old  residents,  which  illustrates  some 
of  the  habits  incident  to  earlier  days :  Many  years  ago,  when 


74  THE     CONNECTICUT    VALLEY     GUIDE. 

viction  that  his  sphere  was  to  be  that  of  a  country  doctor — a 
vender  of  pills  and  powders.  Studying  medicine  at  Northamp- 
ton and  attending  medical  lectures  in  Pittsfield,  he  took  his 
••sheep-skin"  and  went  out  into  the  world  with  the  vague 
impression  that  fame  and  fortune  were  at  the  top  of  a  not  very 
long  ladder.  Ah,  well  it  is,  that  in  the  conflict  of  life  the 
future  is  hidden  from  human  eyes.  He  settled  finally  in 
Springfield,  where  the  stern  realities  of  every  day  life  widened 
kis  knowledge  of  human  nature  and  modified  some  of  his 
enthusiasm.  Meeting  with  little  encouragement  in  the  practice 
of  his  profession,  or  in  the  publication  of  a  weekly  paper, 
he  turned  his  steps  southward,  somewhat  discouraged.  He 
went  to  Richmond,  Va.,  where  he  taught  school  and  afterward 
to  Vicksburg,  Miss.  In  the  latter  place  he  received  a  salary 
of  SIOOO  per  annum,  as  Superintendent  of  public  schools. 
"While  here  the  sickness  of  a  near  relative  called  his  wife  north. 
After  her  departure  he  became  disheartened,  and  giving  up  his 
place  left  for  Springfield.  On  the  day  of  his  arrival  in  that 
city,  less  than  twenty  years  ago,  the  associate  editor  of  the 
Springfield  Republican,  a  son  of  Rev.  Dr.  Davis  of  Westfield, 
was  buried.  On  the  way  from  the  depot  to  the  home  of  a 
friend  the  argus  eyes  of  the  editor-in-chief,  who  scenteth 
smartness  afar  off,  fell  upon  him  and  then  came  the  thought 
"  Here's  my  man."  A  proposition  was  made  and  accepted,  the 
Doctor  commencing  on  a  salary  oi  Jive  hundred  dollars — 
half  the  amount  he  had  received  in  Mississippi.  "  There  is  a 
tide  in  the  affairs  of  men,"  ?ays  Shakespeare,  "  which  taken  at 
the  flood  leads  on  to  fortune."  This  was  true  of  the  Doctor. 
In  earlier  years  he  had  shown  fondness  for  rhyming,  and  here 
in  his  new  field  he  found  ample  scope  for  his  brilliant  imagina- 
tion. He  soon  won  success  as  a  writer  and  author,  and  the 
dark  halo  that  had  dimmed  his  horizon  gave  place  to  the  broad, 
jxlorious  sun-light.  His  first  book  was  a  history  of  Western 
Massachusetts,  written  for  the  columns  of  the  Springfield 
Republican,  as  have  been   a   larger   part  of  his   publications. 


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DE.     J.     G.     HOLLAND. 


75 


Following  this,  appeared  from  his  pen,  Bay  Path,  Letters  to  the 
Young,  Bitter  Sweet,  Gold  Foil,  Miss  Gilbert's  Career,  Les- 
sons in  Life,  Letters  to  the  Joneses,  Plain  Talk  on  Familiar 
Subjects,  and  Life  of  Abraham  Lincoln.  His  reputation  as  an 
author  was  established  on  Letters  to  the  Young,  which  has  had 
a  very  extensive  circulation,  although  not  as  great  as  his 
Life  of  Lincoln,  which  has  gone  above  one  hundred  thousand 
copies.  This  is  an  octavo  volume  of  some  700  pages,  and 
every  line  of  it,  and  in  fact  all  the  labor  bestowed  upon  it,  com- 
mencing with  the  first  collection  of  material,  was  done  inside  of 
four  months.  When  his  publisher  made  application  to  have 
the  work  written  a  difference  of  opinion  rose  in  regard  to  com- 
pensation. The  Doctor  demanded  $5000  and  the  publisher 
would  give  only  $3000.  A  compromise  was  finally  made  by 
fixing  the  price  at  20  cents  per  copy.  As  over  a  hundred 
thousand  copies  have  been  sold  it  will  be  seen  that  this  was  a 
compromise  productive  of  good  to  the  deserving  party,  unlike 
most  of  those  made  in  higher  places.  In  the  early  part  of 
1866  he  sold  his  interest  in  the  Springfield  Republican — 
twenty-six  shares,  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  the  whole  concern — 
for  $26,000,  and  he  now  retires  to  green  fieldsj  poetry  and 
books,  with  a  fortune  sufficiently  ample  to  supply  the  wants  of 
station  and  reasonable  desire,  and  all  made,  too,  since  his  con- 
nection with  the  Springfield  Republican. 

CHICOPEE. 

Nearly  four  miles  north  of  Springfield  is  the  manufacturing 
town  of  Chicopee,  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  Chicopee  River 
The  Dwight  Manufacturing  Company's  mills,  seven  in  number 
will  be  seen  on  the  Chicopee  River,  nearest  the  railroad. 
This  corporation  has  a  capital  of  $1,700,000,  employs,  when 
in  full  operation,  2,000  hands  and  manufactures  $20,000,000 
worth  of  goods  annually.  There  are  70,000  spindles  in  the 
mills  and  the  goods  manufactured  consist  of  sheetings,  shirt- 
ings, drills  and  print  cloths.  Sylvanus  Adams  is  Agent  and 
S.  H.  Brigham,  Superintendent. 


76  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

The  Ames  Manufacturing  Company,  whose  buildings  can  be 
seen  east  of  the  tall  chimney,  employs  400  hands  in  manufac- 
turing gun-stocking  machinery,  water  wheels,  bronze  cannon 
swords,  bronze  statuary,  silver  and  plated  ware,  &c.  They  are 
the  largest  manufacturers  of  bronze  cannon  in  the  country  and 
during  the  war  they  made  over  a  thousand  cannon  for  the  Gov- 
ernment, besides  a  large  quantity  of  shot  and  shell,  running  their 
works  night  and  day,  for  three  years  and  employing  600  to  700 
hands.  In  every  gunboat  and  on  every  battlefield  their  cannon 
played  a  prominent  purt  in  overcoming  treason.  The  capital 
of  this  corporation  is  $250,000.  James  T.  Anres  is  Agent  and 
Geo.  Arms,  Superintendent. 

The  Gaylord  Manufacturing  Company  employ  about  100 
hands  in  making  mail-bags,  military  accoutrements,  locks,  steel 
pens,  &c. 

At  Chicopee  Falls,  two  miles  east  of  Chicopee,  ure  several 
large  manufacturing  establishments.  The  Chicopee  Manufac- 
turing Company  employ  1,000  hands  and  manufacture  sheet- 
ings, shirtings,  print  flanels,  drills  and  counterpanes.  Their 
capital  is  $420,000.  E.  Blake,  Agent ;  Charles  Green,  Super- 
intendent. 

The  Belcher  &  Taylor  Manufacturing  Company  employ 
about  50  hands  in  manufacturing  agricultural  implements. 
Capital,  $50,000 ;  B.  B.  Belcher,  Agent. 

Whittemore  &  Belcher  also  manufacture  a  large  variety  of 
agricultural  implements.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  largest 
concerns  of  its  kind  in  this  country. 

WILLIMANSETT. 

This  station  is  seven  miles  from  Chicopee.  Passengers  for 
South  Hadley  Falls,  opposite  Holyoke,  leave  the  railroad  at 
this  place.  A  few  rods  north  of  the  station  the  Connecticut 
River  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  700  feet  in  length. 


HOLYOKE.  77 

HOLYOKE. 

Distance  from  New  York,  144  miles;  Montreal,  302:  White  Mountains,  176 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  228;  Quebec,  374. 

Shortly  beiore  reaching  WiUimansett  the  factories,  pubhc  and 
private  buildings  of  Holyoke  are  seen  in  the  north-west.  Here, 
eight  miles  from  Springfield,  is  the  greatest  water  power  in 
New  England,  and  here  at  some  future  day  will  be  one  of  the 
largest  manufacturing  cities  in  America-  Just  north  of  the 
town,  a  dam,  30  feet  high  and  1,017  feet  in  length,  is  built 
across  the  Connecticut.  The  river  at  this  point  falls  60  feet  in 
a  mile^and  a  half,  and  furnishes  power  sufficient  to  drive  more 
than  a  million  of  cotton  spindles,  three  times  greater  than  there 
are  at  LoAvell.  There  are  three  canals,  (along  which  are  situated 
the  factories,)  so  arranged  that  the  water  is  used  three  times 
over,  the  mills  on  the  upper  canal  discharging  the  water  from 
their  wheels  into  the  canal  of  the  second  level,  from  the  second 
into  the  third,  and  from  the  third  into  the  river  below  the  rapids. 
The  upper  canal  is  140  feet  wide,  20  feet  deep  and  lined  on 
both  sides  by  heavy  stone  walls.  The  upper  canal  is  now  3,000 
feet  in  length,  the  middle  7,000  feet,  and  the  lower  3,600  feet. 
They  are  to  be  extended  when  there  is  demand  for  more  power 
and  their  united  length,  when  completed  will  be  nearly  six 
miles.  The  dam,  canals,  and  some  1,100  acres  of  land  are 
owned  by  the  Holyoke  Water  Power  Company,  who  lease  the 
power  for  a  term  of  years,  or  in  perpetuity  to  parties  wishing  to 
erect  manufacturing  establishments.  There  is  never  a  deficiency 
of  water,  even  in  the  driest  seasons,  nor  can  the  mills  on  the 
two  upper  canals  be  obstructed  by  back  water,  as  in  some 
localities. 

The  project  of  a  dam  across  the  Connecticut  at  this  place 
was  first  suggested  in  1847,  and  in  the  following  year  it  w^as 
completed,  but  was  so  poorly  built  that  it  was  carried  away 
a  few  hours  after  the  gates  were  closed — just  before  the  water 
had  reached  the  top  of  the  dam.  In  1849  another  one  was 
built  which  has  withstood  the   greatest  freshets  ever   known  in 


78  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

the  Connecticut.  It  is  built  of  wood  and  contains  more  than 
four  milHons  feet  of  lumber,  all  of  which  being  under  water  is 
protected  from  decay.  The  top  of  the  dam  is  covered  with 
sheets  of  boiler  plate  iron,  from  one  shore  to  the  other.  The  dam 
is  spiked  to  the  solid  rock  in  the  bottom  of  the  river  by  three 
thousand  one  and  one-quarter  inch  iron  bolts,  thus  preventing 
any  possibility  of  its  ever  giving  way.  During  the  construction 
of  the  dam  the  water  passed  through  46  gates,  16  by  18  feet 
each,  and  when  completed  at  twenty-two  minutes  before  one,  in 
the  afternoon  of  Oct.  22,  1849,  the  engineer  gave  the  signal, 
and  half  of  them  (alternate  ones)  were  closed.  Another'signal 
was  given  and  the  remaining  gates  were  shut.  The  river 
ceased  its  flow  until  its  waters  gradua^lly  collecting,  rose  upon 
the  face  of  the  dam  and  finally  fell  in  an  unbroken  sheet  over 
its  crest.  This  water  fall,  considering  its  length,  is  the  most 
beautiful  in  New  England,  and  the  traveler  can  obtain  a  good 
view  of  it  soon  after  leaving  the  depot,  by  taking  a  seat  on  the 
east  side  of  the  car. 

The  villao"e  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  hill-side  facing  the 
east,  which  affords  delightful  sites  for  elegant  residences.  At 
the  present  time  there  are  some  6,000  inhabitants  in  the  town, 
and  as  manufacturing  interests  are  improving  it  will  be 
largely  increased.  The  Water  Power  Company  supply 
the  town  with  gas  and  water.  The  reservoir,  which  will 
hold  2,000,000  gallons,  is  filled  from  the  Connecticut  by  force 
pumps,  and  as  it  is  72  feet  above  the  dam  there  is  sufficient 
head  to  throw  the  water  over   the  highest   mill  in  the  town. 

Among  the  corporations  and  manufacturing  companies  doing 
business  in  the  town  are  the  following : 

Holyoke  Water  Power  Company  owns  dam,  canals,  and  1,100 
acres  of  land.  Leases  power  for  manufacturing  purposes. 
Capital,  $350,000.  George  M.  Bartholomew  of  Hartford, 
President;  S.  Stewart  Chase,  Agent  and  Engineer. 

The  Lyman  Mills  employ  1,2U0  hands  in  manufacturing 
sheetings,  shirtings,  lawns  and  print  cloths.     The  capital  of  this 


HOLTOKE.  79 

corporaiion  is  $1,500,000,  and  the  capacity  of  the  mills  is  50,- 
000  spindles.  The  aggregate  yearly  product  amounts  to  three 
and  a  half  millions  yards,  which  is  all  sold  in  Boston  and  New 
York.     The  Agent  is  J.  S.  Davis. 

The  Parsons  Paper  Company  manufacture  writing  papers 
of  every  description.  They  have  nineteen  engines  for  grinding 
rags,  and  turn  out  800  tons  of  paper  yearly,  valued  at  $500,000. 
Their  capital  (nominal)  is  $60,000.  The  number  of  hands 
employed  is  150.  Aaron  Bagg  is  President,  J.  C.  Parsons, 
Agent  and  Treasurer,  and  J.  T.  Prescott,  Clerk. 

The  Holyoke  Paper  Company  manufacture  writing  papers. 
When  their  additions  are  completed  they  will  employ  300 
hands  and  turn  out  four  tons  of  paper  daily.  President,  Daniel 
Ashley ;  Agent,  O.  H.  Greenleaf ;  Treasurer,  C.  W.  Haywood. 

The  Whiting  Paper  Company  manufacture  collar  paper, 
turning  out  three  and  a  half  tons  daily.  They  have  a  capital 
of  $100,000  and  employ  100  hands.  President,  L.  L.  Brown  ; 
Agent,  Wm.  Whiting. 

The  Hampden  Paper  Company  employ  75  hands  and  manu- 
facture one  and  a  half  tons  of  collar  paper  daily.  Their  capital 
is  $60,000. 

The  Franklin  Paper  Company  have  a  capital  of  $60,000, 
employ  75  hands  and  turn  out  one  and  a  half  tons  of  collar 
paper.     The  Agent  is  J.  H.  Newton. 

The  Bemis  Paper  Company  manufacture  Manilla  paper. 
Their  capital  is  $50,000.  President,  Stephen  C.  Bemis; 
Agent,  K.  P.  Crafts. 

The  Holyoke  Manilla  Paper  Company  have  a  capital  of  $30,- 
000,  employ  15  hands  and  manufacture  one  and  a  half  tons  of 
paper  daily,  amounting  in  value  per  year,  to  $125,000.  Presi- 
dent, J.  C.  Parsons  ;  Agent  and  Treasurer,  Henry  S.  Adams  ; 
Clerk,  James  G.  Smith. 

C.  L.  Frink  employs  14  hands  in  manufacturing  envelopes, 
paper  shirt  bosoms,  collars,  &c. 

The    Holyoke   Machine  Company  manufacture  castings,  all 


80  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

kinds  of  macliinery,  water  wheels,  &c.  Number  of  hands  em- 
ployed, 80 ;  capital  $40,000. 

The  Hampden  Mills,  with  a  capital  of  $270,000,  employ 
700  hands  in  manufacturing  ginghams,  coUonades  and  tickings. 
The  capacity  of  the  mills  is  10,000  spindles  and  the  yearly  pro- 
duct is  two  millions  yards,  valued  at  $400,000.  The  goods  are 
sold  in  Boston  and  New  York.     The  Agent  is  John  E.  Chase. 

The  Hadley  Company  manufacture  a  superior  article  of  fine 
yarns  and  threads.  They  have  a  capital  of  $800,000,  employ 
450  hands,  and  turn  out  one  thousand  pounds  of  yarns  and 
threads  daily.  Number  of  spindles  in  this  establishment, 
16,000.     A.  J.  Davis  is  the  Agent. 

The  Merrick  Thread  Company,  successors  of  Merrick  Broth- 
ers &  Co.,  whose  goods  have  been  favorably  known  for  quite  a 
number  of  years,  employ  300  hands  in  manufacturing  spool 
cotton  and  fine  yarn.  They  have  a  capital  of  $200,000.  The 
company  have  an  office  at  28  Warren  Street,  New  York. 

The  Holyoke  Warp  Mills  employ  50  hands,  have  a  capital 
of  $75,000,  and  manufacture  cotton  warps  and  balmoral  skirts. 
H.  M.  Tinkham,  Treasurer ;  A.  L.  Maxfield,  Agent. 

Geo.  W.  Prentiss  manufactures  pia.no,  broom  and  other  wires. 

The  Germania  Mills,  with  a  capital  of  $250,000,  employ 
150  hands  and  manufacture  about  200,000  yards  of  fine  beevers. 

The  J.  Beebe  Woolen  Mill  employs  150  hands  and  manu- 
factures 500,000  yards  of  doeskins  per  annum. 

The  New  York  Woolen  Mill  employs  125  hands  and  manu- 
factures from  oOO.OOO  to  400,000  yards  of  fancy  cassimeres  per 
annum. 

E.  Chase  &  Sons  are  extensively  engaged  in  the  lumber 
business,  and  probably  have  a  larger  trade  than  any  other  lumber 
firm  in  the  valley. 

SOUTH    HADLEY    FALLS. 

Opposite  Holyoke  is  the  village  of  South  Hadley  Falls.  The 
large  brick  factory   on   the   bank  of  the  river  is  the  Glasgow 


smith's  ferry.  81 

Gingham  "Works,  and   north  of  it  a  paper   mill  owned   by  the 
same  corporation,  and  the  Carew  Paper  Company. 

Leaving  Holyoke  the  tourist  passes  the  dam  and  around  the 
great  bend  in  the  Connecticut,  continuing  along  the  bank  of  the 
river.     The  scenery  for  several  miles  is  particularly  fine. 

smith's     ferry. MT.    HOLYOKE    FEMALE     SEMINARY    IN    THE 

DISTANCE. 

This  station  is  nearly  five  miles  from  Holyoke  and  four  from 
Northampton.  Here  passengers  for  South  Hadley  cross  the 
Connecticut.  The  village  is  in  full  view,  situated  on  a  com- 
manding elevation,  about  a  mile  from  the  river.  In  South 
Hadley  is  located  the  celebrated  Mt.  Holyoke  Female  Semi- 
nary, established  through  the  untiring  efforts  of  Mary  Lyon, 
in  1837,  who  became  its  first  preceptress.  The  main  building 
is  50  by  94  feet,  five  stories  high,  including  basement,  and  has 
two  wings,  one  at  each  end.  This  is  strictly  a  family  school 
on  a  large  scale,  to  which  no  day  pupils  are  admitted  and  no 
domestics  are  employed.  The  labor  is  divided  among  the 
whole  number,  each  young  lady  having  a  particular  portion 
of  work  assigned  her  for  a  given  time.  The  principal  object 
of  the  institution  is  to  furnish  a  supply  of  well  qualified  female 
teachers.  Soon  after  leaving  Smith's  Ferry  going  north,  a 
good  view  of  the  Seminary  is  had,  which  is  situated  a  short 
distance  south  of  the  village  church. 

SCENERY     OF     UNUSUAL     INTEREST. 

From  Smith's  Ferry  to  Northampton,  a  distance  of  four 
miles,  the  varied  objects  which  can  be  seen  are  of  more  than 
usual  interest.  Nowhere  along  the  whole  route,  crowded  into 
so  small  a  space  is  there  so  much  to  attract  the  attention  of  the 
tourist.  North  and  on  the  right,  rises  Mount  Holyoke,  on  the 
summit  of  which  is  seen  the  Prospect  House.  The  train  is 
soon  passing  between  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  both  of  which 
approach   close  to   the  river.     Here   the   Connecticut,  or  the 

4* 


S2  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

vast  body  of  water  that  once  made  this  region  a  great  lake, 
gradually  wore  through  the  barrier  of  rock,  leaving  a  magnifi- 
cent valley,  one  of  the  most  fertile  upon  the  face  of  the  globe. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  river,  at  the  western  end  of  Mount 
Holyoke,  are  columnar  rocks,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the 
water  to  the  hight  of  near  a  hundred  feet,  which  resemble 
those  on  the  coast  of  Ireland,  forming  Fingal's  Cave  and  the 
Giiant's  Causeway.  President  Hitchcock,  in  his  Geology  of 
Massachusetts  has  given  them-  the  name  of  Titan's  Pier. 

Looking  up  the  Connecticut,  on  the  right,  will  be  noticed 
Amherst  College,  eight  miles  distant.  A  little  to  the  left  and 
farther  north  is  Mount  Toby,  apparently  extending  towards  the 
east.  A  little  to  the  left  and  still  farther  north  is  Sugar  Loaf 
Mountain,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  and  twelve 
miles  from  Northampton.  After  passing  over  the  railroad 
bridge  to  what  is  known  as  Ox-Bow  Island,  the  former  course 
of  the  Connecticut  will  be  seen.  Here  the  river,  which  for- 
merly made  a  circuit  of  three  and  a  half  miles  to  gain  a 
distance  of  thirty  rods,  received  the  name  of  Ox-Bow.  It 
curved  to  the  west  and  thence  to  the  east,  coming  back  to  what 
is  now  the  main  channel,  east  of  the  bridge.  In  1840  a  freshet 
washed  through  the  ''  neck "  east  of  the  railroad,  making  an 
island  of  the  land  lying  in  the  Bow.  While  crossing  the 
island,  which  contains  400  acres,  and  now  connected  to  the 
main  land  on  the  north  by  the  railroad  embankment,  can  be 
seen  in  the  west  the  factories  sCnd  church  spires  of  Easthamp- 
ton.  South  of  the  Ox-Bow  and  under  Mount  Tom  is  Pascom- 
muck,  where  in  1704  nineteen  or  twenty  persons  were  slain  by 
Indians,  and  the  village  burnt.  The  highest  elevation  seen 
west  of  Easthampton  is  Pomeroy's  Mountain,  and  at  its  eastern 
base  are  several  lead  mines  that  were  opened  during  the  Revo- 
lution, but  owing  to  the  great  depth  of  the  ore  in  the  rock,  they 
were  abandoned.  They  have  recently  been  re-opened  and 
worked.     The  meadows  north  of  the  Island  are  very  broad,  and 


MOUNT    HOLYOKE — THE    PROSPECT    HOUSE. 


83 


including  those  extending  to  the  right,  they  contain  8000  acres, 
valued  at  $150  to  $250  per  acre.  On  approaching  Northamp- 
ton a  good  view  of  the  State  Lunatic  Hospital  is  had,  which  is 
located  a  mile  west  of  the  town.  In  the  center  will  be  noticed 
the  High  School  building,  the  Town  Hall,  the  First  Church, 
and  also  Round  Hill  beyond  with  its  "Water- Cure  buildings. 


MOUNT     HOLYOKE THE     PROSPECT     HOUSE. 

In  going  north,  the  first  distinct  view  of  Mount  Holyoke, 
which  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut,  within 
two  miles  of  Northampton,  is  had  soon  after  leaving  Holyoke. 
On  the  summit  will  be  noticed  the  Prospect  House,  one  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  Connecticut.     Coming  from  the  north,  the 


84  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

mountain  is  seen  at  South  Deerfield,  and  most  of  the  way  to 
Northampton  the  Prospect  House  is  prominently  outlined  on 
the  sky  beyond.  Here  in  1821  was  built  the  first  house 
created  on  any  mountain  in  New  England.  It  is  a  favorite 
place  of  resort  and  during  a  single  season  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
thousand  people  visit  its  summit,  coming  from  nearly  every 
northern  and  western  State  in  the  Union.  The  view  is  beauti- 
ful and  picturesque,  and  is  pronounced  by  distinguished  trav- 
elers to  be  the  finest  in  Atnerica.  N.  P.  Willis,  and  Presi- 
dent Hitchcock,  the  latter  distinguished  as  a  geologist,  have 
written  glowing  descriptions  of  its  unrivaled  beauty,  while 
Jenny  Lind,  during  a  visit  to  it  when  on  her  concert  tour 
through  this  country,  spoke  of  it  in  terms  of  unqualified  praise. 
So  great  a  diversity  of  scenery  is  rarely  met  with.  Mountain, 
meadow,  river  and  valley  are  harmoniously  blended,  while 
here  and  there  the  tall  spires  of  hundreds  of  churches  are 
seen  pointing  heavenward.  The  view  is  much  more  exten- 
sive than  one  would  suppose,  reaching  from  the  Green  Mount- 
ains in  Vermont  and  Monadnock  in  New  Hampshire  on  the 
north,  to  East  and  West  Rocks  on  the  Sound  in  the  south,  a 
distance  of  more  than  a  hundred  miles.  On  the  west.  Grey- 
lock  rears  its  stately  peak,  while  in  the  east  the  rounded  form 
of  Wachusetts  meets  the  eye.  The  view  embraces  no  less 
than  ten  mountains  in  four  States,  and  about  forty  vil- 
lages. But  on  the  whole,  the  most  pleasing  scene  is  that  of 
the  river  and  meadow  beneath.  The  latter  diversified  by  the 
different  crops  under  cultivation,  resembles  a  magnificent  car- 
pet, the  beauty  and  richness  of  coloring  transcending  anything 
produced  in  art.  In  looking  at  this  scene,  one  is  reminded  more 
of  a  great  painting  than  an  actual  landscape.  The  proprietor 
of  the  Prospect  House,  J.  W.  French,  has  resided  on  the 
mountain  nearly  twenty  years,  and  half  of  that  time  both  sum- 
mer and  winter.  The  present  house  is  55  by  70  feet,  two  sto- 
ries high.     Visitors  are  taken  to  the  summit  by  steam  power, 


MOUNT     TOM.  85 

an  incliDed  railway  having  been  constructed  in  1854,  extend- 
ing 600  feet  down  the  mountain  to  the  carriage  road,  where  it 
is  to  connect  with  a  horse  railway  to  the  Connecticut  River.  A 
steamboat  was  built  in  the  spring  of  1866,  by  Mr.  French,  of 
the  Prospect  House,  and  makes  trips  on  the  Connecticut,  car- 
rying passengers  to  and  from  the  terminus  of  the  mountain 
railway. 

The  summit  is  less  than  three  miles  from  Northampton,  from 
which  place  it  is  easily  reached  by  carriages  or  otherwise. 

MOUNT    TOM. 

Mount  Tom,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Connecticut,  will  be 
noticed  first,  soon  after  leaving  Springfield,  in  the  north-west. 
The  point  seen,  which  is  the  southern  end,  is  1,200  feet  high, 
the  greatest  elevation  of  any  part  of  the  mountain  range.  The 
south-eastern  face  is  comparatively  gradual  in  ascent,  and 
reaches  nearly  down  to  the  Connecticut.  The  north-western 
side  is  more  precipitous,  and  in  some  places  is  nearly  perpen- 
dicular. It  is  some  three  or  four  miles  in  length,  and  its  north- 
ern end  terminates  within  a  few  rods  of  the  Connecticut, 
opposite  Mount  Holyoke. 

NORTHAMPTON. 

Distance  from  New  York,  153  miles;  from  Montreal,  293;  White  Mountains, 
167;  Lake  Memphremagog,  212;  Quebec,  385. 

Northampton,  which  is  17  miles  from  Springfield,  is  among 
the  oldest  towns  in  the  Connecticut  Valley,  having  been  settled 
in  1654  by  21  planters  from  Hartford  and  Windsor,  who  pur- 
chased it  of  the  Indians  for  "  one  hundred  fathoms  of  -wampum, 
ten  coats  and  some  small  gifts."  The  Indian  name  of  the  town 
is  Nonotuck.  The  whites  gave  it  the  name  of  Northampton 
after  a  town  of  the  same  name  in  England,  There  are  few 
villages  in  New  England  which  present  so  many  attractions  to 
the  summer  tourist,  and  few  are  so  widely  and  favorably  known. 
A  traveler  writing  of  it,  very  appropriately  remarks :  "  We 


36  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

must  peep  at  Northampton  with  loving  leisure.  It  is  the  front- 
ispiece of  the  book  of  beauty,  which  nature  opens  wide  in  the 
valley  of  the  Connecticut,  and  one  of  the  most  winsome  pic- 
tures in  the  volume." 

Its  broad  and  extensive  meadows,  its  river  and  mountain 
scenery,  its  ancient  elms  and  shaded  streets,  distinguish  it  from 
all  the  other  towns  on  the  banks  of  the  noble  Connecticut.  It 
has  always  been  noted  for  its  culture  and  refinement,  as  well  as 
for  its  great  natural  beauty,  and  many  distinguished  men  have 
been  among  its  residents,  including  Maj.  Joseph  Hawley,  a  dis- 
tinguished lawyer  and  statesman,  who  died  in  1788.  Rev. 
Jonathan  Edwards,  the  third  minister  of  the  town,  who 
preached  here  23  years,  from  1727  to  1753 ;  Gov.  Caleb 
Strong,  who  was  a  member  of  the  provincial  Congress  in  1774, 
of  the  Convention  for  drafting  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States,  and  one  of  the  committee  to  draft  a  Constitution  to  be 
submitted  to  the  people  ;  a  member  of  the  United  States  Sen- 
ate in  the  first  Congress,  and  for  eleven  years  Governor  of 
Massachusetts,  commencing  in  1800. 

In  the  cemetery  are  buried  four  persons  who  were  once  Uni- 
ted States  Senators  from  Massachusetts,  Gov.  Caleb  Strong, 
Eli  P.  Ashmun,  Elijah  H.  Mills  and  Isaac  C.  Bates.  David 
Brainard,  the  missionary  to  the  Stockbridge  Indians,  and  Dr. 
Sylvester  Graham,  one  of  the  first  lecturers  on  health  in  this 
country,  are  also  buried  in  the  same  cemetery. 

The  Edwards  Elm  on  King  Street,  the  top  of  which  can  be 
seen  west  of  the  railroad,  shortly  after  crossing  Main  Street,  is 
among  the  oldest  and  most  beautiful  trees  in  Northampton.  It 
was  set  out  by  President  Edwards,  in  front  of  his  dwelling, 
during  his  ministry  in  the  town. 


yn'ater   cuee   hotel. 


87 


ROUND    HILL    WATER    CURE    AXD    HOTEL. 

Round  Hill,  a  beautiful  eminence  overlooking  the  town, 
with  its  water-cure  buildings,  and  its  grove  of  native  forest 
trees,  will  be  noticed  in  the  north-west,  and  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  west  of  the  railroad. 

Here  George  Bancroft,  the  historian,  and  J.  G.  Coggswell, 
ffer  some  years  Librarian  of  the  Astor  Library,  had  a  famous 
classical  school — one  of  the  most  noted  in  this  country.  Dr.  H. 
Halsted  now  occupies  the  buildings  for  a  water-cure.  Jenny 
Lind  spent  several  months  there  just  after  her  marriage,  previ- 
ous to  returning  to  Europe.  The  view  from  the  piazza  of  the 
water-cure  is  extensive  and  beautiful,  and  is  nowhere  surpassed. 

The  State  Lunatic  Hospital,  located  one  mile  west  of  the 
village,  is  a  large  and  elegant  structure.  The  erection  of  the 
building  was  commenced  in  1856,  and  completed  in  1858.  The 
length  of  the  two  wings  and  main  building  is  512  feet.  The 
wings  are  three  stories  high,  and  the  main  building  four.  The 
floors  cover  an  area  of  four  acres.  The  first  Superintendent 
was  Dr.  Wm.  Henry  Prince,  of  Salem,  now  in  private  practice 
in   the    town.     Resigning   in  1864,   Dr.  Pliny  Earl,  formerly 


88  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Superintendent  of  the  Bloomingdale  Hospital,  was  appointed 
Superintendent,  which  position  he  now  holds.  Its  average  num- 
ber of  patients  is  about  350. 

Northampton  has  always  been  celebrated  for  its  beautiful 
drives,  which,  with  the  many  other  pleasing  features  of  the 
town,  attract  hundreds  from  the  cities  to  spend  the  summer 
months.  It  has  also  taken  great  interest  in  educational  matters, 
and  within  the  last  few  years  there  has  been  erected  a  High 
School  building,  at  a  cost  of  about  $40,000. 

Florence,  a  village  within  the  limits  of  the  town,  and  about 
two  miles  and  a  half  west  of  the  center,  in  point  of  business 
has  perhaps  shown  the  greatest  enterprise.  Here  are  located 
the  shops  of  the  Florence  Sewing  Machine  Company,  the  Non- 
otuck  Silk  Company,  a  Button  and  Daguerreotype  Case  fac- 
tory, Cotton  factory,  &c.  Dr.  Charles  Mund,  a  participator  in 
the  German  revolutions,  and  a  refugee,  for  many  years  had  a 
water-cure  establishment  there,  but  it  was  burnt  in  1865,  and 
he  has  since  returned  to  Europe  to  educate  his  children,  having 
received  a  pardon  from  the  King,  and  an  appointment  under 
our  government. 

Some  years  ago  there  was  an  industrial  association  in  Flor- 
ence, called  the  Community,  similar  to  those  advocated  by 
Fourier,  the  distinguished  French  philanthropist.  C!onsiderable 
land  was  purchased  and  held  by  the  association.  Here  were 
gathered  some  of  the  brightest  intellects  of  the  country,  who 
joined  the  association  to  achieve  an  ideal  life.  Failing  to  make 
it  pecuniarily  self-sustaining,  the  project  was  abandoned,  but 
some  of  its  members  still  reside  in  the  town,  and  are  among 
its  best  and  most  worthy  citizens.  There  has  recently  been 
erected  in  Florence  a  school  house,  costing  about  $30,000 ; 
nearly  all  of  if  a  free  gift  from  one  of  its  most  esteemed  resi- 
dents, Mr.  S.  L.  Hill. 

Of  the  other  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  town,  the 
most  important  are  the  Bay  State  Works,  where  hoes,  rakes. 


THE    MANSION    HOUSE. 


89 


&c.,  are  made.     The  Paper  MiU  of  Wm.  Clark  &   Co.,  L.  B. 

"Williams  &  Co.'s  Basket   Factory,  and  Arms,  Bardwell  &  Co's 
Skirt  Factory.     The  International  Screw   Company   are  about 

to  erect  shops  in  the  town,  and  will  give  employment  to  a  large 

number  of  hands. 

The  construction  of  a  Horse  Railway  through  the  streets  of 
Northampton  to  Florence  and  TVilliamsburg,  was  commenced  in 
the  spring  of  1866.  This  when  completed  will  be  the  only 
street  railway  in  Massachusetts  west  of  Worcester. 

The  Northampton  Indellible  Pencil  Company  are  doing  con- 
siderable business  in  the  manufacture  of  Indellible  Pencils  for 
marking  fine  linen.  This  is  an  article  designed  to  take  the 
place  of  indellible  ink. 


THE    MANSION    HOUSE    AT    NORTHAMPTON. 

This  popular  and  well  known  hotel,  kept  by  William  Hill,  is 
centrally  located,  within  five  minutes  walk  of  the  depot.     Under 


90  THE    COXXECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Mr.  Hill's  management  it  has  come  to  be  regarded  by  sum- 
mer tourists  with  great  favor.  A  good  livery  stable  is  connected 
with  the  house,  and  carriages  are  furnished  to  parties  wishing 
to  visit  Mt.  Holyoke  and  the  neighboring  villages. 

THE    WARNER    HOUSE, 

On  Main  Street,  Northampton,  kept  by  Roswell  Hunt,  is  one 
of  the  oldest  hotels  in  the  valley.  For  many  years  it  was  kept 
by  the  late  Hon.  Oliver  Warner,  and  under  his  management  it 
became  widely  known.  It  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite 
stopping  place  with  business  men,  and  has  always  received  a 
large  patronage. 

THE    FLORENCE     SEAVING    MACHINE. 

The  manufactory  of  the  Florence  Sewing  Machine  at  Flor- 
ence, in  the  town  of  Northampton,  is  quite  extensive,  as  will  be 
seen  by  the  birds-eye  view  given  of  it  by  the  artist.     Here  are 
employed  a  large  number  of  hands  in  manufacturing   what  is 
acknowledged  to  be  the  best  Sewing  Machine  now  in  use  in  this 
country.     This  machine  makes  four  distinct  stitches,  lock,  knot, 
double  lock  and  double  knot ;  either  of  which  is  stronger  and  more 
elastic   than   that   made   by   many   other  machines,  and  it  has 
become  so  popular  that  it  has  been  almost  impossible,  much   of 
the  time,  to  fill  the  orders  for  it.     Some  of  the  more  important 
features  of  this  machine  were  invented  by  L.  W.  Langdon,  then 
of  Rochester,  N.  Y.     Placing   his   invention  on   exhibition  at 
Crystal  Palace,  New  York  city,  it  came  under  the  observation 
of  Mr.  S.  L.  Hill,  of  Florence,  w^ho  made  arrangements  to  have 
its  manufacture  begun  in  the  place  of  his  residence.     A  company 
was  formed,  and  after  experimenting  four  years,  they   commen- 
ced to  build  some  of  the  machines.    In  a  year  and  a  half,  after 
surmounting  many  obstacles,  they  completed  ten  machines,  at  a 
cost  of  S10,000.     Since  that  time  there  has  been  no    difficulty, 
and  the  machine  has  risen  rapidly  into  popular  favor. 


92  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

The  usual  numher  of  machines  manufactured  is  from  1,000 
to  1,200  monthly. 
The  advantages  of  this  machine  over  all  others  is  stated  as  follows : 

"Z«5  makes  four  different  stitches,  the  loch,  knot,  double 
loch,  and  double  hnot,  on  one  and  the  same  'machine.  Each 
stitch  being  alike  on  both  sides  of  the  fabric. 

Every  Machine  has  the  reversible  feed  motioii,  which  ena- 
bles the  operator,  by  simply  turning  a  thumb  screw,  to  have  the 
''work  run  either  to  the  right  or  left,  to  stay  any  part  of  the  seam, 
or  fasten  the  ends  of  seams,  without  turning  the  fabric. 

The  only  machine  having  a  self-adjusting  shuttle  tension — 
the  amount  of  tension  always  being  in  exact  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  bobbin. 

Changing  the  length  of  stitch,  and  from  one  kind  of  stitch  to 
another,  can  readily  be  done  while  the  machine  is  in  motion. 

The  needle  is  easily  adjusted. 

It  is  almost  noiseless  and  can  be  used  where  quiet  is  necessary. 

Its  motions  are  RMj^ositive;  there  are  no  springs  to  get  out 
of  order,  and  its  simplicity  enables  the  most  inexperienced  to 
operate  it. 

It  does  not  require  finer  thread  on  the  under  than  for  the 
upper  side,  and  will  sew  across  the  heaviest  seams,  or  from  one 
to  more  thicknesses  of  cloth,  without  change  of  needle,  tension, 
or  breaking  thread. 

The  Hemmer  is  easily  adjusted,  and  will  turn  any  width  of 
hem  desired. 

No  other  machine  will  do  so  great  a  range  of  work  as  the 
Florence. 

It  will  hem,  fell,  bind,  gather,  braid,  quilt,  and  gather  and 
sew  on  a  ruffle  at  the  same  time." 

To  use  a  poor  and  worthless  tool  of  any  kind  is  poor  econo- 
my, and  to  nothing  is  this  rule  more  applicable  than  to  a  sec- 
ond rate  sewing  machine. 

The  Company  have  offices  in  New  York,  Boston,  Philadel- 
phia, Cincinnati,  Chicago,  St.  Louis,  San  Francisco,  and  in  all 


THE    SMITH    CHARITIES.  93 

the  important  places  in  the  coimtiy,  while  a  considerable  num- 
ber have  been  sold  in  Europe. 

The  manufactory  is  only  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from 
Northampton,  and  is  worthy  a  visit 

THE    SMITH    CHARITIES. 

Oliver  Smith,  of  Hatfield,  a  bachelor,  died  in  1845  worth 
$370,000,  which  he  left  by  will  to  be  devoted  principally  to 
charitable  objects.  Among  the  provisions  of  the  will  was  the 
establishment  of  Smith's  Agricultural  School  at  Northampton, 
60  years  after  his  decease,  and  to  assist  poor  and  worthy  young 
men  and  women  and  widow  ladies.  The  will  provides  that 
young  men  and  women,  taken  from  families  residing  in  North- 
ampton, Williamsburg,  Hatfield,  Hadley  and  Amherst,  in 
Hampshire  County,  and  in  Whately,  Deerfield  and  Greenfield, 
in  Franklin  County,  and  bound  out  to  persons  residing  in  those 
towns,  shall  receive :  girls,  when  married,  as  a  marriage  portion, 
the  sum  of  $300 ;  boys,  when  of  age,  a  loan  of  $500  for  five 
years — interest  to  be  paid  annually.  At  the  end  of  the  five 
years,  if  they  prove  themselves  worthy,  then  they  shall  have 
the  $500  outright,  as  a  present,  to  assist  them  in  commencing 
business.  Under  certain  conditions,  the  will  also  provides  that 
indigent  young  women,  about  to  be  married,  can  have  $50  as  a 
marriage  portion,  and  that  indigent  widows,  who  have  children 
dependent  upon  them,  can  receive  $50  annually,  to  assist  them 
in  supporting  their  families. 

When  the  Annual  Report  was  made  in  May,  1866,  the  aggre- 
gate amount  of  the  several  funds  was  $853,776,  divided  as  fol- 
lows; Joint  and  Miscellaneous  Fund,  $451,168;  Contingent 
Fund,  $341,627  ;  Agricultural  Fund,  $54,997. 

These  funds  are  managed  by  a  Board  of  three  Trustees,  one 
of  whom  is  chosen  annually  by  electors — one  from  each  of  the 
eight  towns  receiving  benefits  of  the  will.  The  electors  are 
chosen  at   the  annual  town  meetings.     The  President  of  the 


94  THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

Board  is  Hon.  Osmyn  Baker,  of  Northampton.  In  1866  the 
Trustees  completed  the  erection  of  an  office  and  banking  build- 
ing, at  Northampton,  of  Portland  freestone,  at  a  cost  of  about 
$30,000. 

THE    SILK    FEVEE KEMARKABLE     PEKSEVEEANCE     OF    ITS 

OEIGINATOE. 

The  speculative  mania  which  swept  over  this  country  some 
30  or  40  years  ago,  concerning  the  production  of  raw-  silk,  had 
its  origin  in  Northampton.  The  motive  however  of  the  one 
who  suggested  it,  was  not  of  a  speculative  nature,  but  had  its 
foundation  in  a  desire  to  do  a  great  public  good.  The  origina- 
tor of  it  has  had  remarkable  experience,  and  his  history  is  of 
more  than  ordinary  interest.  Few  men  have  ever  labored  so 
perseveringly  against  so  many  discouragements,  without  being 
disheartened  and  turned  from  their  purpose.  From  the 
attempt  to  introduce  the  production  of  raw  silk  into  this 
country  he  turned  his  attention  to  invention,  but  from  a  variety 
of  causes,  when,  seemingly  on  the  point  of  realizing  an  im- 
mense fortune,  his  expectations  and  years  of  anxious  labor 
have  come  to  naught.  Few  have  had  the  capacity  to  bring 
their  inventions  so  successfully  before  the  public,  or  have 
secured  so  large  sums  to  have  them  tested.  In  several  in- 
stances large  companies  have  been  formed,  and  altogether,  him- 
self and  those  concerned  willi  him  have  expended  not  less  than 
half  a  million  of  dollars  in  his  various  enterprises.  Yet, 
nearly  every  one  of  his  inventions  have  failed  in  securing  to 
him,  or  those  interested,  a  remuneration.  Not,  it  is  claimed, 
because  they  possessed  no  real  worth,  but  from  other  causes 
over  which  he  had  no  control.  He  has  at  last,  however,  per- 
fected an  invention,  after  six  years  of  most  constant  labor,  that 
promises  to  be  one  of  great  usefulness.  It  is  an  indellible  pen- 
cil for  writing  on  paper — a  substitution  in  many  cases  for  ink. 


MR.    WHITMARSH.  95 

Mr.  Samuel  Whitmarsh,  the  gentleman  referred  to,  was  for- 
merly a  dry  goods  merchant  in  New  York.  In  1830  he  went 
to  Northampton  to  reside.  It  occurring  to  him  that  the  pro- 
duction of  raw  silk  might  be  successfully  done  in  this  country, 
he  traveled  through  the  silk  regions  of  the  Old  World  to  make 
investigations.  He  returned  home  with  full  belief  in  its  prac- 
ticability and  at  once  made  arrangements  to  commence  the 
business  in  Northampton.  Mulberry  trees  were  planted  and 
cocooneries  established.  The  subject  was  then  discussed  in  the 
public  prints  and  thousands  rushed  into  the  business  without 
any  knowledge  of  it.  Speculators  seized  upon  it  and  fanned 
the  flame,  and  it  soon  become  a  mania,  running  through  the 
country  like  wild-fire.  As  a  natural  result  the  whole  thing 
proved  a  failure. 

A  company  was  formed  in  Northampton  and  a  factory  was 
established  in  the  village  of  Florence  for  the  manufacture  of 
silk.  In  that  factory  was  woven  cloth  for  a  silk  vest  which 
Mr.  Whitmarsh  presented  to  Henry  Clay.  In  Northampton  a 
smaller  factory  was  also  built  and  in  it  ribbons  of  various  qual- 
ities were  woven. 

After  making  a  series  of  experiments,  Mr.  Whitmarsh 
became  satisfied  that  a  warmer  climate  would  be  more  favora- 
ble to  the  production  of  raw  silk.  He  went  to  the  island  of 
Jamaica  to  make  investigations,  and  was  convinced  that  the 
business  could  be  successfully  carried  on  there.  He  formed  a 
company  with  a  capital  of  $200,000,  and  in  1848  erected 
extensive  buildings. 

Through  the  various  discouragements  that  have  been  passed, 
Mr.  AVhitmarsh  has  been  unwaverinfi.  He  visited  England  to 
interest  the  people  in  the  enterprise,  and  while  at  London  sold 
$50,000  worth  of  stock  in  the  Company.  The  samples  of  silk 
he  had  with  him  were  pronounced  to  be  the  best  in  the  London 
market.  Lord  Metcalf,  just  appointed  Governor  of  Jamaica, 
took  great  interest  in  the  enterprise,  and  declared  to  Mr.  Whit- 


96  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

marsh  that  he  was  deserving  of  the  highest  monument  that 
could  be  erected,  for  what  he  had  ah'eady  accomplished.  Re- 
turning to  Jamaica,  to  his  great  chagrin  and  disappointment,  he 
found  that  one  of  the  directors  in  the  Company,  a  lawyer  by 
profession,  had  had  some  diiRculty  with  the  owners  of  an  ice- 
house in  which  the  worms  had  been  placed,  and  had  removed 
them  to  a  cellar,  the  dampness  of  which  killed  them.  As 
they  had  long  been  undergoing  the  process  of  acclimation,  this 
put  the  enterprise  back  five  years.  Following  this  began  a 
long  and  unprofitable  litigation,  and  finally  the  project  was 
abandoned  altogether.  In  1846  he  loaded  a  small  vessel  with 
tropical  plants,  orange  trees,  century  plants,  &c.,  and  accompa- 
nied with  his  family  and  some  30  American  workmen,  sailed 
for  Boston,  with  a  view  of  opening  a  botanical  garden,  under 
the  patronage  of  the  city,  the  ship  and  cargo  being  all  that 
was  left  of  a  large  property,  and  what  at  one  time  prom- 
ised a  great  enterprise.  In  Boston  the  proposition  to  establish 
a  conservatory  and  garden  did  not  meet  with  success,  and  it 
was  abandoned.  Before  leaving  Jamaica  he  took  up  a  century 
plant  and  sailed  for  London,  where  he  sold  it  for  a  hundred 
guineas,  and  returned  home  by  the  same  steamer. 

Since  the  silk  enterprise  he  has  devoted  himself  to  developing 
several  inventions.  Among  them,  after  spending  some  six  or 
eight  years  in  experimenting,  was  a  steam  furnace  for 
warming  buildings.  A  company  was  formed  of  New  York 
capitalists,  and  their  manufacture  commenced  at  Northampton. 
Some  difiiculty  arose  in  the  company  and  this  was  abandoned, 
Mr.  Whitmarsh  alone  losing  $30,000. 

He  next  invented  a  kind  of  belting,  and  some  New  York 
men  began  its  manufacture  at  Northampton.  This  company 
too  got  into  difficulty,  and  after  losing  from  $60,000  to  $80,000 
gave  up  the  business. 

In  December,  1859,  Mr.  Whitmarsh  commenced  experiment- 
ing with  a  view  of  inventing  an  Indellible  Pencil  for  writing  on 


EASTHAMPTON.  97 

paper,  and  after  six  years  of  the  most  patient  labor,  he  has  at 
last  succeeded.  The  patent  is  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  A.  G.  Day, 
of  Seymour,  Conn.,  and  ]VIr.  Whitmarsh,  and  it  will  soon  be 
brought  before  the  public. 

EASTHAMPTON. 

Four  miles  south-west  of  Northampton,  is  the  town  of  East- 
hampton,  noted  for  its  schools  and  factories.  It  presents  a  very 
neat  appearance,  much  more  so  than  is  usual  in  a  manufactu- 
ring village,  and  its  rapid  growth  is  due  to  the  enterprise  of 
Hon.  Samuel  Williston,  son  of  Rev.  Payson  Williston,  the  first 
minister  of  the  town,  who  was  settled  in  1789.  Williston 
Seminary,  which,  as  a  classical  school,  to  prepare  young  men 
for  college,  has  few  equals,  was  established  by  ]Mr.  Wilhston, 
who  has  given  $225,000  for  that  purpose. 

He  first  commenced  the  manufacture  of  buttons  in  a  small 
way  by  hand,  his  wife  assisting  him.     Meeting  with  great  suc- 
cess, he  enlarged  his  business,  and  finally,  in  1847,  began  the 
erection  of  a  factory  at  Easthampton.     Previously  he  had  man- 
ufactured suspenders  as  well  as  buttons,   and  when  his  factory 
was  completed  his  business  was  transferred  to  it  and  greatly 
enlarged.     In  later  years  other  kinds  of  manufacturing  have 
been  entered  upon,   and  all  of  his    enterprises   have    proved 
immensely  profitable.     He  is  probably  the  richest  manufactu- 
rer in  the  western  part  of  the  State,  and  in   1864  he  returned 
an  income  of  over  $200,000.     His  gifts  for  religious  and  edu- 
cational purposes  in  this  vicinity  amount  to  $318,000.     Of  this 
amount  he  has  given  $225,000  to  Williston  Seminary,  $50,000 
to  Amherst  College,  and  $43,000  to  Payson  church  in  East- 
hampton.    When  the  Canal  Railroad  was  built,  he  subscribed 
$35,000  to  its  capital  stock,  and  as  that  enterprise,  owing  to  bad 
management,  did  not  pay  as  an  investment,  that  sum  can  be 
regarded  as  a  gift,  which  will  make  the  aggregate  of  his  public 
donations  $353,000. 

5 


98  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

There  are  now  in  the  town  some  half  a  dozen  factories,  with 
a  total  capital  of  $1,600,000.     The  different  corporations  are: 

Nashawannuck  Manufacturing  Company,  capital  $300,000, 
employs  300  hands  in  manufacturing  suspenders  and  frills. 

Glendale  Vulcanized  Rubber  Company,  capital  $250,000, 
employs  300  hands,  and  manufactures  elastic  shoe  webbing. 

National  Button  Company,  capital  $150,000,  employs  125 
hands,  and  manufactures  1200  gross  of  buttons  per  day. 

Easthampton  Rubber  Thread  Company,  capital  $100,000, 
manufactures  rubber  thread  used  in  webbing. 

Williston  Mills,  capital  $800,000,  has  two  mills,  and  manu- 
facture cotton  yarn  for  warps. 

HADLEY. 

Both  above  and  below  Northampton  the  church  spires  of  Old 
Hadley  can  be  seen,  about  three  miles  east  of  the  railroad,  the 
streets  of  which  extend  from  the  Connecticut  on  the  north,  to 
the  same  river  on  the  south,  a  distance  of  about  a  mile,  the 
town-  lying  in  the  neck  or  base  of  the  peninsula.  The  Con- 
necticut here  makes  a  curve  to  the  west,  and  thence  to  the  east 
in  its  southerly  course  of  seven  miles.  The  town  was  settled 
in  1650,  by  a  colony  from  Hartford,  "Windsor  and  Wethersfield, 
Conn.  There  are  three  streets  running  north  and  south,  parallel 
with  each  other.  West  street  was  laid  out  before  the  colony  came 
to  the  town,  with  "  home  lots  "  of  several  acres  each  on  either 
side  of  the  street,  which  was  originally  twenty  rods  wide  and 
one  mile  in  length.  In  1773  the  original  width  was  reduced  to 
eighteen  rods.  Since  that  time  still  further  reductions  have 
been  made  which  have  cut  it  down  to  seventeen  and  one-half 
rods  at  the  South,  and  fifteen  and  one-half  rods  at  the  North. 
Various  causes,  including  the  encroachments  of  the  river  at  the 
north  end,  have  reduced  its  length  to  300  rods,  consequently  it 
contains  not  far  from  twenty-one  acres.  On  each  side  of  the 
street  are  two  rows  of  ancient  elms,  nearly  1,000  in  number; 


HADLEY.  99 

and  the  quiet,  rural  aspect  of  the  town,  with  its  broad  and  grass- 
covered  street,  give  it  a  peculiar  appearance,  unlike  any  other 
village  in  the  valley. 

Middle  Street  was  laid  out  in  1683,  and  was  originally  twenty 
rods  in  width.  It  has  however  been  reduced  to  about  eleven 
rods.     East  Street  was  laid  out  in  1825. 

In  1657,  Edward  Hopkins  of  Hartford,  left  a  donation  of 
a,bout  £400,  which  was  appropriated  to  establish  a  school.  In 
1667,  the  town  granted  to  the  trustees  of  this  fund  a  meadow 
in  North  Hadley,  which  now  contains  about  140  acres.  Vari- 
ous other  accessions  have  been  made,  the  Legislature  in  1816 
granted  an  act  of  incorporation,  and  gave  them  a  quarter  of  a 
township  of  land  situated  in  what  is  now  the  State  of  Maine. 
A  building  was  erected  in  1814,  on  the  middle  lane  which  runs 
between  East  and  West  streets.  From  that  time  Hopkins* 
Academy  became  one  of  the  notable  institutions  in  this  valley. 
The  old  building  was  burned  in  1860,  and  the  school  held  its 
sessions  in  rooms  fitted  up  in  the  basement  of  the  Congrega- 
tional Church  until  1865,  when  the  fund  was  incorporated  with 
that  raised  by  the  town,  and  a  building  erected  lor  a  High 
School.  She  can  reckon  many  of  the  most  distinguished  men 
in  New  England  among  her  graduates. 

This  town  is  celebrated  as  being  the  place  of  refuge  of  "  the 
regicides,"  William  Goffe  and  Edward  Whalley,  two  of  the 
judges  who  condemned  Charles  I.  They  had  both  occupied 
positions  in  Cromwell's  army,  the  former  being  a  major-general 
and  the  latter  a  lieutenant-general.  After  the  restoration  of 
the  monarchy,  an  order  for  their  apprehension  as  traitors  was 
issued.  They  made  their  escape  and  reached  Boston  in  1660. 
They  resided  in  New  Haven,  Conn.,  for  three  years  and  a  half 
after  their  arrival,  obliged  all  the  while  to  use  their  utmost  vig- 
ilance, frequently  being  compelled  to  resort  to  the  woods  and 
caves  to  elude  their  pursuers.  At  one  time  they  secreted  them- 
selves under  a  bridge  near  New  Haven,  while  the  King's 
otlicers  rode  over  on  horseback. 


100         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

In  October,  1664,  they  came  to  Hadley  and  took  up  their 
abode  with  Rev.  Mr.  Russell,  whose  house  was  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  West  street,  directly  north  of  what  is  now  the 
main  road  between  Northampton  and  Amherst.  Here  they 
remained  concealed  fifteen  or  sixteen  years.  The  dangerous 
secret  was  known  to  Peter  Tilton  and  to  a  Mr.  Smith,  who 
lived  at  the  north  end  of  the  village.  Through  Mr.  Tilton,  who 
was  frequently  a  member  of  the  general  court,  GofFe  corres- 
ponded with  his  friends.  By  one  of  his  letters,  dated  April  2, 
1679,  it  appears  that  Whalley  died  some  time  previous  at  Mr. 
Russell's.  He  was  buried  in  a  tomb  formed  of  mason  work 
and  covered  with  hewn  stone,  just  without  the  cellar  wall  of 
the  dwelling,  where  his  remains  w^ere  found  by  Mr.  Gaylord  in 
1794,  when  he  built  a  house  on  the  site  where  Mr.  Russell's 
stood.  There  is  also  a  tradition  that  GofFe  died  in  Hadley 
and  was  buried  in  the  garden  or  near  the  house  of  Mr.  Tilton. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  1675,  while  the  people  were 
assembled,  on  a  fast  day,  at  the  church,  the  town  was  attacked 
by  the  Indians  and  thrown  into  the  greatest  confusion.  A 
man  of  venerable  aspect  and  commanding  mien  suddenly 
appeared  among  them,  assumed  command,  arrayed  the  men 
in  the  best  posture  for  defense,  and  by  his  example  inspired 
them  with  new  vigor.  As  soon  as  the  enemy  were  repelled  the 
stranger  withdrew.  Speculation  concerning  their  deliverer  was 
rife,  but  it  only  ended  in  the  conjecture  that  the  town  had  been 
saved  by  its  guardian  angel.  The  supposed  angel  was  none 
other  than  General  Goffe,  who,  seeing  the  danger  of  the  town, 
rushed  out  to  assist  in  the  defense,  and  by  his  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  military  tactics,  enabled  the  town's  people  to  withstand 
the  assault.  There  seems  to  have  been  a  suspicion  in  the  minds 
of  the  cotemporaneous  local  historians  that  this  officer  was  an 
important  personage  whom  it  was  for  the  interest  of  the  colony 
to  conceal. 

Hadley  is  also  the  birth  place  of  Maj.-Gen.  Joseph  Hooker, 
for  a  time  commander  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 


AMIIERST.  101 

Here  was  manufactured,  the  first  broom,  of  broom  corn  that 
was  made  in  this  country.  About  1790  broom  corn  was  intro- 
duced into  the  town  and  grown  as  an  ornamental  plant.  At 
that  time  brooms  were  made  of  birch.  A  negro  named  Ebar 
commenced  to  manufacture  the  brush  into  brooms,  and  Levi 
Dickinson  sold  them.  This  was  the  origin  of  the  broom  busi- 
ness, which  has  now  become  one  of  the  most  important  in  this 
vicinity.  At  first  Mr.  Dickinson  met  with  much  opposition, 
there  being  great  prejudice  against  what  was  regarded  as  an 
innovation.  He  predicted  that  it  would  become  the  leading 
business  of  the  county,  and  if  it  has  not  been  fully  realized, 
the  time  has  been  when  it  was  the  most  important  in  quite 
a  number  of  the  towns  in  this  region.  In  Hadley  alone 
there  are  manufactured  nearly  $200,000  worth  of  brooms  and 
brushes  annually.  Formerly  all  the  brush  consume'd  in  the 
town  was  raised  in  the  valley  ;  now  much  of  it  is  grown  in  the 
West. 

AMHEEST   AND   ITS   COLLEGES. 

Seven  miles  east  of  Northampton  is  Amherst  and  its  colleges. 
About  a  mile  below,  and  about  the  same  distance  above,  North- 
ampton, the  town  is  in  full  view,  lying  beyond  Hadley  and 
apparently  at  the  base  of  the  eastern  range  of  hills,  but  really 
about  two  miles  from  them.  Amherst  College,  though  one  of 
the  youngest  in  New  England,  is  already  in  the  first  rank  of 
educational  institutions.  The  college  edifices  are  nine  in  num- 
ber, grouped  on  the  summit  of  a  gentle  eminence  and  command- 
ing an  unsurpassed  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  for  miles 
on  every  side.  Part  of  the  buildings,  dating  back  to  the  foun- 
dation of  the  college,  are  old  and  cannot  boast  much  in  the  way 
of  architectural  beauty ;  but  the  most  of  them  are  of  compara- 
tively recent  construction,  and  besides  sustaining  that  great  test 
of  every  building,  adaptation  to  the  use  intended,  are  really  fine 
edifices  in  themselves,  and  ornaments  to  the  town.  Among 
them  may  be  mentioned  the  Library  building,  Williston  Hall — 


102  THE     CONNECTICUT     VALLEY     GUIDE. 

erected  by  the  munificence  of  Hon.  Samuel  Williston,  of  East- 
hampton,  who  has  been  a  Hberal  patron  of  the  college — the 
Appleton  Cabinet,  the  Observatory  and  Octagonal  Cabinet,  the 
Gymnasium,  and  the  new  Dormitory. 

But  the  greatest  pride  of  Amherst  College  is  the  cabinets; 
and  any  one  who  examines  them  even  cursorily,  will  acknowl- 
edge that  the  pride  is  a  legitimate  and  just  one.  On  entering 
the  college  grounds,  the  first  building  that  attracts  the  attention 
is  the  Observatory  and  the  Octagonal  Cabinet,  so-called.  The 
upper  room  of  this  building  is  entirely  devoted  to  Prof.  Charles 
U.  Shepard's  Mineralogical  Cabinet,  which  comprises  6000 
specimens  of  minei*als  of  the  rarest  and  choicest  character,  and 
fully  arranged  and  labeled  for  study.  Here  is  also  the  largest 
collection  of  meteorites  in  the  world,  gathered  by  untiring  indus- 
try and  at  great  expense  by  Prof.  Shepard.  The  casual  observ- 
er, and  the  man  of  science  will  ahke  love  to  linger  long  in  this 
room ;  the  uneducated  attracted  by  the  beautiful  colors  and 
unusual  forms  of  the  minerals,  and  their  beautiful  arrangement, 
and  the  educated  to  study  the  rare  and  costly  specimens  here 
exhibited.  To  those  of  a  practical  turn  of  mind,  it  may  be 
interesting  to  know  that  the  value  of  the  whole  collection  is 
almost  fabulous,  and  that  single  specimens  cost  thousands  of 
dollars.  In  the  lower  room  of  the  same  building  is  the  W  ood's 
Geological  Cabinet,  containing  20,000  specimens  of  American 
and  foreign  rocks  and  fossils,  offering  unrivaled  facilities  for  the 
students  of  this  branch  of  science.  Joined  to  the  Octagonal 
Cabinet  and  opening  from  it,  is  the  Nineveh  Gallery,  containing 
relics  from  Nineveh,  and  large  sculptured  slabs,  arranged  as 
they  stood  in  the  palace  of  Sardanapalus  at  Nimroud.  Here, 
also  is  a  collection  of  coins  and  medals,  and  a  quantity  of  Indian 
relics.  On  the  other  side  of  the  cabinet  is  the  observatory, 
containing  all  the  necessary  instruments  for  taking  observations 
of  the  celestial  bodies. 

Beyond  the  chapel,  and  on  a  lower  terrace,  is  the  Appleton 
Cabinet,  in  the  upper  room  of  which  is  the  Adams  Zoological 


THE    GREAT   BEND    IN   THE    CONNECTICUT.  103 

Cabinet,  containing  specimens  of  5,900  species  of  animals,  and 
8,000  species  of  shells.  Here  also  is  an  Herbarium  containing 
more  than  4,000  species  of  dried  plants,  with  the  seeds  and 
cuttings  of  tropical  plants  and  trees,  besides  a  private  collection 
of  Lichens,  consisting  of  800  species.  The  lower  room,  one 
hundred  and  ten  feet  long,  and  forty-five  feet  wide  is  devoted 
entirely  to  the  Ichnological  Cabinet,  presenting  some  9000  ex- 
amples of  tracks  m  stone.  This  cabinet  peculiarly  belongs  to 
Amherst,  and  more  than  any  other  one  thing,  perhaps  has 
given  a  reputation  to  the  College.  There  is  no  other  cabinet 
like  it  in  the  world,  in  extent,  and  very  few  in  kind.  The 
science  of  Ichnology  had  its  birth  at  Amherst ;  here  lived  its 
founder.  Dr.  Hitchcock,  and  here  are  gathered  its  richest  speci- 
mens, "  foot-prints  on  the  sands  of  time,"  stone  histories  of  the 
past.  These  tracks  on  the  sand-stone  of  the  Connecticut  Val- 
ley tell  queer  legends  of  the  animal  life  of  long  ago,  and 
nothing  can  be  more  interesting  than  to  spend  an  hour  or  a 
day  in  viewing  these  relics,  now  scientifically  arranged  and 
classified. 

The  Massachusetts  State  Agricultural  College  was  located  in 
Amherst  in  1863,  about  a  mile  north  of  the  village,  and  some 
400  acres  purchased  as  an  experimental  farm.  The  erection 
of  the  College  buildings  were  commenced  in  1866,  and  when  in 
operation  it  is  expected  that  this  will  be  one  of  the  best  institu- 
tions of  the  kind  in  the  country. 

THE  GREAT  BEND  IN  THE  CONNECTICUT. 

Leaving  Northampton,  a  mile  north  of  the  town  the  tourist 
comes  to  the  great  bend  in  the  Connecticut — the  river  running 
seven  miles  to  gain  one.  The  broad  meadows  and  the  village 
rf  Hadley,  extending  across  the  peninsula  from  one  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  to  the  other,  are  in  full  view.  It  was  at  this 
place  that  the  Farmington  Canal  from  New  Haven  to  North- 
ampton terminated,  when  in  operation.  The  patronage  being 
insufficient  it  was  abandoned  about  twenty  years  ago. 


104  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

This  is  the  last  view  had  of  the  Connecticut  until  the  tour- 
ist approaches  South  Vernon,  nearly  30  miles  distant.  The  river 
takes  a  more  circuitous  route,  bearing  further  to  the  east. 

HATFIELD. 

Hatfield,  four  miles  from  Northampton,  is  a  pleasant  town, 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut.  Its  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  engaged  in  agriculture,  fattening  cattle,  and  raising 
crops  of  tobacco  and  broom  corn.  The  village  is  about  two 
miles  east  of  the  depot.  This,  like  many  other  towns  in  this 
region,  suffered  from  attacks  from  Indians  in  its  early  days. 
May  30,  1676  some  six  or  seven  hundred  Indians  invaded  the 
town,  burnt  twelve  houses  and  killed  a  number  of  the  inhab- 
itants. A  company  of  25  men  from  Hadley  crossed  the  river, 
attacked  the  Indians  and  succeeded  in  killing  25.  Another 
attack  was  made  Sept.  19,  1677  by  800  Indians,  who  killed  11 
whites  and  carried  17  into  captivity.  Oliver  Smith,  the  founder 
of  the  Smith  Charities,  lived  in  this  town. 

WHATELY, 

Four  miles  from   Hatfield,  is  a  small  agricultural  town.     The 
village  will  be  noticed  on  the  hill  west  of  the  raikoad. 

SUGAR   LOAF    MOUNTAIN. 

Soon  after  leaving  "Whately,  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain  will  be 
observed  on  the  right.  It  is  a  conical  peak  of  red  sand-stone, 
500  feet  above  the  plain.  It  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut,  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  river,  and  rises 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the  meadows  below.  North  of  it 
is  another  peak  somewhat  higher,  but  seldom  visited,  as  the 
view  is  less  interesting.  Sugar  loaf  stands  as  it  were  at  the 
head  of  the  valley,  and  the  southern  view  is  remarkable  for  its 
beauty.  On  the  left,  east  of  th«  river,  and  almost  underneath 
the  mountain,  is  the  village  of  Sunderland,  accessible  from  the 
the  west  side  by  a  covered  toll  bridge.     South,  and  on  the 


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106  THE    CONNECTICUT    A'ALLEY    GUIDE. 

same  side  of  the  river,  are  the  villages  of  North  Amherst,  Am- 
herst, Belchertown,  North  Hadley  and  Hadley.  On  the  west 
side  are  South  Deerfield,  Whatelj,  Hatfield,  Northampton  and 
Easthampton.  Skirting  the  southern  horizon  are  the  lofty 
peaks  of  Mounts  Holjoke  and  Tom,  and  between  them,  through 
the  gateway  to  the  ocean,  glimmering  in  the  sun-light,  are  the 
church  spires  in  Holyoke  and  Chicopee. 

Here  lies  before  you  a  great  basin,  divided  through  its  center 
by  the  Connecticut,  and  on  either  side  the  numerous  villages 
and  well  cultivated  fields,  add  beauty  to  the  scene.  At  no  other 
point  is  one  more  strongly  impressed  with  the  great  wealth  of 
the  valley.  Before  you,  on  either  side  of  the  river,  are  thou- 
sands of  dwellings  and  workshops,  seemingly  almost  a  continu- 
ous village.  On  this  plain  in  years  gone  by,  where  peace  and 
happiness  now  dwell,  were  enacted  some  terrible  and  bloody 
scenes.  Here  on  this  very  mountain  peak,  it  is  supposed  that 
King  Philip,  the  terror  of  the  early  settlers,  had  his  head-quar- 
ters and  from  which  he  kept  watch  over  the  movements  of  the 
whites  below.  At  the  southern  face  of  the  mountain  was 
fought  a  great  battle,  and  at  the  right,  north  of  the  village  of 
South  Deerfield,  was  one  of  the  most  terrible  and  heart-rending 
massacres  ever  perpetrated  by  Indians.  The  monument  erected 
to  commemorate  the  event,  can  be  seen  in  front  of  the  North 
Church. 

Table  Rock,  on  the  eastern  side,  is  a  feature  of  great  interest. 
It  projects  from  the  mountain  side,  and  at  a  single  leap  one 
could  strike  the  plain  hundreds  of  feet  below.  By  way  of  in- 
formation it  might  be  well  to  state  that  visitors  are  not  expected 
to  try  that  way  of  descending  the  mountain,  as  a  source  of 
amusement.  It  is  feared  that  stopping  so  suddenly,  would 
create  an  unpleasant  sensation.  Underneath  Table  Rock  is 
King  Philip's  Chair,  cut  from  the  solid  rock.  Three  excava- 
tions were  made  by  the  Indians,  as  is  supposed,  and  one  of 
them  is   a   good  seat.      Some  imaginative    white   man   gave 


INDIAN   MASSACRES.  107 

it  the  name,  years  ago,  of  King  Philip's  Chair,  by  which  it  is 
now  known. 

East  of  Sugar  Loaf,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Connecticut, 
is  Mount  Toby,  twelve  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  In  the 
north  west  can  be  seen  Shelburne  Mountain,  and  Haystack — 
the  latter  in  Vermont. 

The  Mountain  house,  kept  by  Granville  Wardwell,  was  built 
by  him  in  1864.  It  stands  on  the  summit,  near  the  southern 
point.  Persons  wishing  to  visit  the  mountain  can  leave  the 
cars  at  South  Deerfield,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  summit. 
A  road  has  been  constructed  to  the  house. 

SOUTH    DEERFIELD THE    BATTLE    OF    BLOODY   BROOK. 

South  Deerfield,  a  village  in  the  town  of  Deerfield,  at  the 
base  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  is  chiefly  noted  for  having  been 
the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  terrible  Indian  massacres  re- 
corded on  the  pages  of  history.  Here  was  fought  the  battle  of 
Bloody  Brook,  the  history  of  which  is  familiar  to  every  school- 
boy in  the  land. 

The  first  conflict  between  the  whites  and  Indians  took  place 
in  August,  1675,  at  the  south  end  of  Sugar  Loaf,  where  Cap- 
tains Lathrop  and  Beers,  who  had  left  Hadley  in  pursuit  of 
some  Indians  who  were  attempting  to  join  King  Philip,  over- 
took them.  In  this  engagement  26  Indians  and  ten  whites 
were  killed. 

On  the  18th  of  the  following  September  a  force  of  80  soldiers, 
under  command  of  Capt.  Lathrop,  who  had  been  stationed  at 
Hadley,  was  returning  from  Deerfield,  acting  as  a  guard  to 
some  teams  that  were  transporting  grain  to  Hadley,  and  while 
halting  at  a  small  stream  north  of  where  the  village  now  stands, 
an  attack  was  made.  The  stream  was  then  bordered  by  trees 
on  which  the  native  grape  clustered;  and  while  the  men  were 
gathering  them  700  Indians,  probably  under  command  of 
Phillip  fell  upon  them  and  most  cruelly  butchered  almost  the 


108  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

entire  force.  Only  seven  or  eight  escaped  to  tell  the  sad  tale. 
Including  Capt.  Lathi'op  and  the  teamsters  the  number  killed 
was  about  90.  Capt.  Moseley,  then  at  Deerfield,  hearing  the 
firing  hurried  to  the  spot,  attacked  the  Indians,  and  after  a 
most  deadly  strife  put  them  to  flight.  Their  loss  was  about 
96  warriors. 

Nearly  all  of  the  whites  who  were  slain  were  buried  in  one 
common  grave,  a  short  distance  south  of  where  the  massacre 
took  place.  A  few  years  ago  a  monument  26  feet  high  was 
erected  to  commemorate  the  sad  event.  Edward  Everett 
delivered  an  eloquent  address,  when  the  corner  stone  was  laid. 

DEERFIELD — INDIAN    MASSACRES. 

Passing  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  the  Bloody  Brook  Mon- 
ument  you  soon  come  to  Old  Deerfield.     Few  towns  in    New 
England    suffered   so   much   in  its  earlier    days  from   Indian 
depredations   as    did  this.      Within    its    borders,  from    King 
Philip's  war  to  that  waged  by  the   French  and  Indians  nearly 
150    white    settlers   were   killed,    and    many    others    carried 
into  captivity.     About  30  years  after  the  massacre  of  Captain 
Lathrop  and  men  at  Bloody  Brook,  another,  and  if  possible 
more  heart-rending  deed  was  transacted  at  the  village  of  Deer- 
field.     On  the  29th  of  February,  1704,  Maj.  Hertel  de  Rouville, 
with  upwards  of  340   French   and  Indians,  arrived  at  Petty 's 
Plain,  north   of   Deerfield   meadows,  which  the  traveler  will 
notice  towards   the  north-west  previous  to  crossing  the  bridge 
over  Deerfield  river.     Here  he  halted  until  the  next  morning, 
when  he  moved  upon  the  village  of  Deerfield.     The  snow  hav- 
ing drifted  to  the  top  of  the  palisades  which  had  been  construc- 
ted as  a  defense,  the  entire  force  entered  the  fortifications  undis- 
covered, the  settlers  being  in  profound  sleep.     The  houses  were 
broken  open,  the  frightened  and  defenseless  inhabitants  dragged 
from  their  beds,  and  such  as  offered  resistance  were  killed  and 
the  others  taken  prisoners.     Only  a  few  escaped.     Rev.  John 
Williams,  the  minister  of  the  town,  was  awakened  from  his 


INDIAN    MASSACRES.  109 

sleep  and  rushed  to  the  door  and  found  the  enemy  entering. 
Calling  to  two  soldiers  who  lodged  in  the  house  he  sprang 
back  and  seized  a  pistol  and  attempted  to  fire  at  an  Indian.  It 
missing  fire,  he  was  seized  and  bound.  Two  of  his  children 
and  a  negro  woman  were  taken  to  the  door  and  butchered. 
Mr.  Wilhams  was  kept  standing  in  the  cold  for  an  hour  before 
being  permitted  to  dress.  His  savage  captors  meantime 
amused  themselves  by  threatening  his  life  and  swinging  their 
hatchets  over  his  head.  Mrs.  Williams  had  recently  given 
birth  to  a  child,  and  still  in  a  feeble  condition  was  compelled  to 
dress,  and  herself  and  five  children  taken  captives. 

An  attack  was  made  on  the  house  of  John  Sheldon,  which  they 
found  hard  to  enter.  An  attempt  was  made  by  the  Indians  to 
split  the  door  down  with  their  hatchets.  Finally  it  was  partly 
opened  and  a  musket  was  thrust  in  and  fired.  Mrs.  Sheldon, 
who  had  risen  and  was  dressing,  was  hit  and  killed.  The 
house  was  used  as  a  place  of  confinement  for  the  prisoners 
until  all  were  gathered  in  from  the  other  parts  of  the  village. 
One  house  was  defended  by  seven  men,  for  whom  the  women 
cast  bullets  while  the  fight  was  in  progress.  When  the  sun 
was  about  an  hour  high,  after  the  houses  had  been  plundered 
and  many  of  them  set  on  fire,  Rouville  and  his  men  started  for 
Canada,  halting  at  Petty's  Plain,  where  they  had  left  their 
packs  and  snow-shoes  a  few  hours  before. 

Capt.  Stoddard  escaped  from  Mr.  Williams'  house  dudng  the 
attack,  by  leaping  from  the  window.  He  tore  up  a  cloak,  which 
he  had  hurriedly  seized,  and  bound  about  his  feet,  and  ran  to 
Hatfield.  A  son  of  Capt.  Sheldon  escaped  the  same  way,  and 
also  went  to  Hatfield.  A  force  left  Hatfield  in  pursuit  of  the 
Indians,  and  they  were  overtaken  north  of  Deerfield,  where  a 
skirmish  ensued,  but  the  pursuers  being  much  the  smaller  party, 
were  obliged  to  retreat — not,  however,  until  they  had  lost  nine 
of  their  number.  The  captives  taken  by  Rouville  numbered 
180,  and  the  killed  47.     The  enemy's  loss  exceeded  40. 


110  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

Mrs.  Williams,  who  had  become  weak  and  exhausted  on  the 
second  day's  march,  was  thrown  down  by  the  water  while  cross- 
ing a  rapid  stream,  and  her  savage  captor,  thinking  it  impossible 
for  her  to  continue  the  march,  buried  his  tomahawk  in  her  fore- 
head, which  soon  caused  her  death.  Mr.  Williams  was  much 
of  the  time  separated  from  his  wife,  and  was  in  advance  when 
she  was  cruelly  butchered.  She  was  the  daughter  of  Rev. 
Eleazer  Mather,  the  first  minister  of  Northampton,  and  was  an 
educated,  refined,  and  noble  woman. 

At  White  River,  Rouville  divided  his  forces — one  party  going 
up  that  river  to  Canada  and  another  up  the  Connecticut.  Mr, 
Williams'  party  followed  the  White  River  route  and  most  of  his 
children  the  other,  and  they  barely  escaped  death  from  famine* 

After  arriving  in  Canada  the  French  treated  Mr.  WiUiams 
with  great  kindness,  and  finally  he  was  redeemed  by  Gov.  Vau- 
dreuil.  In  1706  Mr.  Williams  and  four  of  his  children,  with 
other  captives  to  the  number  of  57,  embarked  on  board  of  a 
ship  at  Quebec,  sent  there  by  Gov.  Dudley,  and  sailed  for  Bos- 
ton. His  daughter,  Eunice,  seven  years  old  when  captured,  he 
was  unable  to  procure,  and  she  remained  with  the  Indians. 
Arriving  at  womanhood  she  married  an  Indian,  and  by  him  had 
a  family  of  children.  From  her  descended  Rev.  Eleazer  Wil- 
liams, late  missionary  to  the  Indians  at  Green  Bay,  Wisconsin, 
the  pretended  Dauphin  of  France.  A  few  years  after  the  war 
she  visited  Deerfield  with  her  husband  and  a  number  of  other 
Indianf.  She  was  dressed  in  Indian  costume,  and  all  induce- 
ments offered  her  to  remain  were  unavailing.  A  brother,  who 
was  taken  to  Canada  with  her,  became  the  first  pastor  in  Long- 
meadow.  She  subsequently  twice  visited  him,  but  she  could 
not  be  prevailed  upon  to  remain,  on  the  ground  that  it  would 
endanger  her  soul,  having  become  a  convert  to  Romanism. 

Mr.  Williams,  after  his  release  from  captivity,  resumed  his 
ministerial  labors  at  Deerfield.  His  wife,  who  was  killed  on 
the  way  to  Canada,  was  brought  back  to  Deerfield,  and  her 
remains  now  lie  interred  by  the  side  of  her  husband. 


mi'^. 


M 

Pi 


112  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

Lossins:  states  that  one  of  the  motives  which  led  to  the 
attack  on  Deerfield,  was  to  recover  a  bell  that  had  been  sent 
from  France  to  a  CathoHc  Church  in  St.  Regis,  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  which  was  captured  by  an  English  vessel  while 
on  the  way,  and  sent  to  Salem  and  thence  to  Mr.  Williams' 
church  at  Deerfield.  The  bell  was  carried  off  by  the  Indians 
and  buried  near  where  the  village  of  Burlington  is  now  situ- 
ated, receiving  the  benedictions  of  the  Catholic  priest,  who 
accompanied  the  expedition.  In  the  spring  it  was  taken  to  St. 
Regis  and  is  still  in  use  at  the  Catholic  Cathedral  at  that  place. 

The  "  Old  Indian  House,"  known  to  former  visitors  and  resi- 
dents of  Deerfield,  showing  the  marks  of  the  tomahawks  upon 
the  door,  and  perforations  made  by  the  balls  inside,  was  the  one 
in  which  Mrs.  Sheldon  was  killed,  and  where  the  captives  were 
temporarily  confined.  It  was  taken  down  a  few  years  ago,  but 
the  door  has  been  preserved,  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the 
Boston  Museum. 

Quite  a  number  of  distinguished  men  have  been  natives  of 
Deerfield ;  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  Gen.  Epaphras 
Hoyt,  author  of  Antiquarian  Researches,  the  late  President 
Edward  Hitchcock,  of  Amherst  College,  and  Maj.  Gen  Rufus 
Saxton. 

The  Deerfield  Academy,  still  in  existence,  was  formerly  one 
of  the  most  noted  educational  institutions  in  the  country. 

The  meadows  along  the  banks  of  Deerfield  river  are  broad 
and  fertile.  "Within  a  few  years  past  Deerfield  has  had  quite  a 
number  of  summer  visitors,  where  there  is  a  good  hotel. 

Pocumtuc  Rock,  on  the  range  of  mountains  east  of  the 
depot,  is  frequently  visited.  From  it  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
valley. 

DEERFIELD    BRIDGE. 

Leaving  Deerfield  you  soon  come  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Deerfield  River.     It  is  750  feet  in  length  and  from  48  to  90 


GREENFIELD.  113 

feet  above  the  water.  It  was  burnt  on  the  morning  of  July  17, 
1864,  and  before  night  half  a  dozen  saw  mills  were  employed 
sawing  out  lumber  to  be  used  in  rebuilding  it.  Within  three 
weeks  the  lumber  was  all  on  the  ground  and  within  six  weeks 
trains  were  able  to  cross  the  bridge. 

GREENFIELD THE  ROUTE  TO  HOOSIC  TUNNEL. 

After  crossing  the  Deerfield  River  bridge  the  track  of  the 
Vermont  and  Massachusetts  Railroad,  will  be  seen  on  the  right. 
At  this  place  it  curves  to  the  east  and  follows  the  valley  of  the 
Deerfield  River  to  the  Connecticut,  and  then  to  Fitchburg, 
where  it  connects  with  the  road  to  Boston.  On  approaching 
Greenfield,  in  the  valley  of  Green  River,  west  and  below  the 
railroad,  the  tourist  wdll  notice  the  various  buildings  of  the 
Green  River  works,  the  first  table  cutlery  manufactory  estab- 
lished in  this  country,  J.  Russell  &  Co.,  proprietors.  Mr.  John 
Russell,  the  senior  partner,  commenced  life  as  a  blacksmith,  but 
as  all  of  our  table  cutlery  was  then  made  in  England  he  con- 
ceived the  plan  of  opening  a  shop  in  this  country.  In  1834, 
having  sent  to  England  for  workmen  who  had  been  employed 
in  the  great  establishments  at  Sheffield,  he  began  operations, 
and  from  a  small  beginning  he  has  built  up  a  large  and  flourish- 
ing business,  now  giving  employment  to  over  400  hands* 
There  is  no  better  cutlery  made,  and  it  is  found  on  the  tables  of 
almost  every  dwelling,  from  the  magnificent  dining  rooms  of 
Fifth  Avenue,  to  the  rude  hovel  of  the  hardy  pioneer  on 
the  Pacific  slope. 

Greenfield  has  a  population  of  about  3,600  and  is  one  of  the 
many  thriving  towns  in  the  valley.  The  streets  are  wide,  and 
lined  on  either  side  by  old  and  magnificent  elms.  It  has  long 
been  a  favorite  stopping  place  for  summer  visitors,  and  in  and 
about  the  town  are  some  charming  views  of  natural  scenery. 
Its  drives  are  numerous  and  pleasant,  adding  greatly  to  the 
interest  of  the  town.     Among  the  drives  may  be  mentioned 


114  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

\ 

that  to  Leyden  Glen,  the  Gorge  Road,  up  Green  River,  to  Still 
"Water,  in  Deerfield,  coming  back  by  the  Old  Indian  House,  to 
Turner's  Falls,  to  Shelburne  Falls,  and  Hoosic  Tunnel.  On 
Rocky  Mountain,  about  a  mile  east  of  the  town  are  two  other 
interesting  localities — the  Poet's  Seat,  and  Bear's  Den,  from 
the  former  there  are  views  of  the  Connecticut  and  the  valley  in 
the  east,  the  locality  of  Turner's  Falls,  the  town  of  Montague, 
and  the  valley  lying  to  the  west.  From  Bear's  Den  a  view  is 
had  of  Deerfield  and  the  meadows  around  that  town. 

Greenfield  is  the  shire  town  of  Frankhn  County,  and  is  the 
central  point  of  a  large  agricultural  community.  Besides 
the  Green  River  Works  there  are  several  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments,— the  Greenfield  Tool  Company,  just  north  of  the 
town,  and  west  of  the  railroad,  where  are  manufactured  car- 
penters' tools ;  the  Greenfield  Manufacturing  Company,  manu- 
facturers of  woolen  goods,  and  several  other  smaller  establish- 
ments. 

Visitors  to  the  Hoosic  Tunnel,  leave  the  cars  at  Greenfield 
and  proceed  by  stage  through  the  village  of  Shelburne  Falls, 
and  thence  along  the  Deerfield  River  to  the  western  end  of  the 
tunnel. 

The  principal  hotel  in  Greenfield  is  the  Mansion  House, 
where  visitors  will  find  good  accommodations. 

turner's    falls. 

Some  three  or  four  miles  east  of  Greenfield  are  Turner's 
Falls  in  the  Connecticut.  Here  the  river  makes  a  descent  of 
70  feet  in  two  and  one  half  miles,  and  a  company  have 
purchased  700  acres  of  land  in  the  vicinity  with  a  view  of 
building  a  manufacturing  village.  A  dam  1,300  feet  in  length 
is  to  be  built  across  the  river,  and  several  canals  are  to  be 
constructed. 

During  King  Philip's  war  a  force,  headed  by  Capt.  Turner, 
marched  to  this  place  and  attacked  the  Indians,  who  had  gath- 
ered at  the  falls  for  the  purpose  of  fishing.     Three  hundred 


NORTHFIELD.  115 

were  killed  and  drowned,  but  unfortunately  Capt.  Turner  was 
himself  shot  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day. 

The  bird   tracks  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  which  are  of  so 
much  interest  to  scientific  men  were  first  found  here. 

BERNAEDSTON. 

Bernardston,  seven  miles  from  Greenfield,  is  a  small  villao-e 
of  several  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  is  located  Powers'  Insti- 
tute, an  educational  institution  of  some  note.  Soon  after  leav- 
ing the  station,  going  north,  the  church  spire  in  Gill  can  be  seen 
several  miles  eastward.  The  railroad  curves  to  the  east,  coming 
out  upon  the  plateau  above  the  Connecticut,  where  the  first  view 
of  the  river  is  had  since  leaving  Northampton. 

NOETHFIELD. 

Before  reaching  South  Vernon,  the  village  of  Northfield  will 
be  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Connecticut.  A  branch  of 
the  Vermont  and  Massachusetts  Railroad  passes  through  the 
town,  and  the  bridge  over  the  Connecticut  will  be  noticed  north- 
west of  the  village.  In  the  early  part  of  September,  1675,  the 
town  was  attacked  by  Indians,  nine  or  ten  persons  killed,  and 
the  other  settlers  driven  to  the  fort.  Shortly  after  the  pursuit 
and  attack  on  the  Indians  south  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  Capt. 
Beers  was  dispatched  from  Hadley — the  headquarters  of  the 
English  forces — to  take  provisions  to  the  settlers  at  Northfield. 
Within  two  miles  of  the  fort  they  were  surprised,  and  Capt. 
Beers  mortally  wounded.  The  men  saved  themselves  the  best 
way  they  could,  but  out  of  a  force  of  37  men  only  16  returned 
to  Hadley. 

SOUTH     VERNON ^THE     STATE    LINE. 

At  this  place  the  traveler  leaves  Massachusetts  and  enters 
Vermont.  The  boundary  line  between  the  two  States  passes 
through  the  southern  end  of  the  passenger  station  house. 
Here  the  Vermont  and   Massachusetts    Railroad,  which  inter- 


116  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

sects  the  eastern  and  western  line  at  Grout's  Corner,  forms  a 
junction  with  the  other  roads  and  extends  to  Brattleboro.  The 
Ashuelot  Raih'oad,  extending  to  Keene,  N.  H.,  23  miles  dis- 
tant, also  comes  into  this  place,  crossing  the  Connecticut  on  a 
bridge  just  north  of  the  station. 

Leaving  South  Vernon  the  tourist  is  soon  riding  along  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Connecticut,  charmed  with  the  beautiful 
scenery  before  him, — the  extended  view  up  the  valley,  with 
the  mountain  range  opposite  Brattleboro  in  the  distance,  and  the 
beautiful  island  covered  with  forest  trees,  in  the  Connecticut,  in 
the  foreground. 

MONADNOCK  MOUNTAIN. 

Just  as  the  train  approaches  Vernon  station,  the  summit  of 
Monadnock,  thirty  miles  eastward,  in  JafFrey,  N.  H.,  can  be  seen 
through  the  valley  of  the  Ashuelot.  It  is  3,450  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  is  the  first  land  seen  by  sailors  entering  Boston  harbor 
from  European  ports.  In  clear  weather  Bunker  Hill  Monu- 
ment can  be  seen  with  the  aid  of  the  glass.  From  the  summit 
forty  lakes  and  a  large  number  of  villages  are  in  full  view,  and 
the  scenery  around  the  mountain  is  grand  and  beautiful.  A 
large  hotel  has  been  erected  half  way  to  the  summit,  and  is 
under  the  management  of  George  D.  Rice.  To  reach  it  from 
the  Connecticut  Valley,  the  tourist  should  leave  the  train  at 
South  Vernon,  proceed  to  Keene  by  the  Ashuelot  Railroad,  and 
thence  to  Troy  on  the  Cheshire  Railroad,  from  which  place  a 
stage  runs  to  the  hotel,  five  miles  distant.  Boston  people  can 
leave  the  city  by  the  early  morning  train,  visit  the  mountain 
and  return  home  the  same  day. 

VERNON THE    CAPTURE    OF    MRS.    HOWE    BY    INDIANS. 

In  the  early  settlement  of  Vernon,  Forts  Bridgman  and 
Sartwell,  built  to  protect  the  inhabitants  from  Indians,  were  the 
scenes  of  bloody  massacres.  The  former  was  attacked  and 
destroyed  June  24,  1746,  and  on  July  27,  1755,  the  latter  was 


VERNON.  117 

entered  and  its  occupants  carried  into  captivity.  These  forts 
stood  west  of  the  raih'oad,  nearly  a  mile  north  of  the  depot. 
Among  those  captured  were  Mrs.  Jemima  Howe  and  her  seven 
children.  Her  husband,  Caleb  Howe,  had  been  previously 
killed  in  the  field  while  returning  from  work.  Mrs.  Howe's 
youngest  child  was  torn  from  her  breast,  and  it  perished  with 
hunger.  Herself  and  other  children,  after  a  long  march,  reached 
Canada.  She  spent  a  number  of  years  there,  but  by  her  own 
heroism  she  procured  her  release,  and  with  five  children  returned 
to  Vernon.  Her  oldest  daughter  was  taken  to  France,  and 
marrying  a  Frenchman,  never  returned  to  America.  Mrs. 
Howe  had  been  twice  married,  and  both  husbands  had  been 
killed  by  Indians.  After  her  return  she  married  a  third  time, 
Amos  Tute.  A  son  by  this  husband,  Jonathan  Tute,  died  from 
the  effects  of  inoculation,  and  was  buried  in  the  cemetery 
in  Vernon.  Rev.  Bunker  Gay  of  Hinsdale,  N.  H.,  more  noted 
for  eccentricity  than  education,  wrote  an  epitaph,  which  is  still 
legible  upon  the  tombstone,  that  has  caused  many  a  stranger  to 
pause  before  Jonathan's  grave  and  contemplate  his  unfortunate 
end.     A  few  of  the  more  remarkable  lines  are  copied  below : 

"  Here  lies  cut  down,  like  um'ipe  frui-t, 

A  son  of  Mr.  Amos  Tute. 
*  *  *  *  * 

To  death  he  fell  a  helpless  prey, 

On  April  V  and  Twentieth  Day, 

In  Seventeen  Hundred  Seventy- Seven, 

Quitting  this  world,  we  hope,  for  Heaven. 

Behold  the  amazing  alteration, 
Effected  by  inoculation ; 
The  means  empowered  his  Hfe  to  safe, 
Hurried  him  headlong  to  the  grave." 

FORT    DUMMER THE    FIRST    SETTLEMENT    IN    VERMONT. 

Leaving  Vernon  you   soon   come  to    Fort   Dummer,  a  mile 
Foiith  of  the  village  of  Brattleboro,  where  the  first  settlement 


118  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

in  Vermont  was  made,  and  here  was  born  the  first  white  child 
in  the  State,  John  Sargent,  whose  descendants  still  reside  in 
Brattleboro.  Fort  Dummer  was  built  in  1724  by  the  Colonial 
authorities  of  Massachusetts,  and  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Dummer,  then  Lieut.  Governor.  The  site  of  the  fort 
was  near  the  river,  where  a  dwelhng  house  now  stands  directly- 
east  of  the  large  farm  house  which  can  be  seen  near  the 
wooded  hills  west  of  the  railroad.  When  the  fort  was  built  it 
was  supposed  to  be  within  the  limits  of  Massachusetts,  and  at 
that  time  was  the  northern  outpost  of  civilization. 

BEATTLEBOEO. 

Distance  from  New  York,  194  miles ;  Montreal,  250 ;  White  Mountains,  125 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  168 ;  Quebec,  330. 

Of  the  many  beautiful  towns  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecti- 
cut, none  present  more  attractions  to  the  summer  tourist  than 
Brattleboro.  Situated  on  an  uneven  surface,  and  surrounded 
by  hills  and  mountains,  the  scenery  is  grand  and  picturesque, 
and  it  is  said,  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  that  of  Swit- 
zerland. The  view  from  Cemetery  Hill,  a  high  point  just  south 
of  the  town,  is  particularly  fine.  From  it  is  seen  the  Connec- 
ticut on  the  right,  sweeping  around  the  base  of  Wantastiquet 
Mountain  in  a  graceful  curve,  while  the  mountain  itself,  rises 
abruptly  from  the  east  bank  of  the  river  to  the  hight  of  nearly 
1,100  feet.  To  the  north  and  west  lies  the  village,  nestling 
among  the  shade  trees,  while  further  in  the  distance  are 
numberless  hill-tops,  outlined  on  the  deep  blue  sky  beyond. 
Main  Street  extends  north  and  south,  parallel  with  the  river, 
and  is  one  hundred  feet  above  it.  Further  west  are  terraces 
upon  which  are  situated  many  of  the  private  dwellings.  The 
highest  point  in  the  village  is  nearly  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  river.  A  mile  north  of  the  village  is  West  River  which 
rises  among  the  Green  Mountains,  and  flows  into  the  Connecti- 
cut.    In  the  southern  part  of  the  village  is  Whetstone  Brook, 


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120  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

which  furnishes  power  for  the  various  manufactories  along  its 
banks.  Here  in  Brattleboro,  in  1845,  was  established  by  Dr  Robert 
Wesselhoeft,  a  distinguished  German,  the  third  Water- Cure  in 
this  country,  and  which  for  a  long  time  received  extensive  pat- 
ronage, some  of  the  most  eminent  men  in  the  country  coming 
here  for  treatment.  Late  years  Brattleboro  has  been  a  favorite 
resort  for  summer  visitors  and  frequently  there  are  from  600  to 
800  strangers  in  the  town.  The  drives  in  and  around  the 
village  are  remarkable,  winding  along  the  banks  of  impetuous 
little  streamlets,  through  beautiful  groves,  and  over  high  hills. 
A  new  drive  can  be  taken  every  day  for  nearly  a  month,  with- 
out going  outside  of  a  radius  of  four  miles,  and  all  of  them 
have  peculiar  features  of  interest. 

The  Vermont  Asylum  for  the  Insane  is  located  in  the  north 
part  of  the  town,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  conducted  in- 
stitutions of  the  kind  in  the  country.  It  was  founded  in  1834 
by  Mrs.  Anna  Marsh  of  Hinsdale,  N.  H.,  who  died  leaving  by 
will,  $10,000  for  that  purpose.  The  Asylum  was  incorporated 
and  is  managed  by  a  board  of  trustees  in  accordance  with  the 
provisions  of  the  will.  The  State  of  Vermont  has  contributed 
at  various  times  $23,000  to  assist  in  establishing  the  institution, 
and  rebuilding  the  main  edifice  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1862.  The  Asylum  owns  600  acres  of  land  in  one  body, 
adjoining  the  grounds  on  which  the  buildings  are  located,  and 
about  as  many  more  of  woodland.  The  labor  on  the  farm  is 
mostly  done,  voluntarily,  by  the  patients,  who  are  greatly  bene- 
fitted by  it.  The  property  of  the  Asylum  is  now  valued  at 
$150,000,  all  but  $33,000  of  which  has  been  accumulated  by  the 
good  management  of  the  institution.  Dr.  Wm.  H.  Rockwell, 
the  present  Superintendent,  has  served  in  that  position  since  the 
Asylum  was  first  opened,  coming  here  from  the  Insane  Retreat 
at  Hartford,  Connecticut,  where  he  was  assistant  physician. 

The  villasre  is  the  residence  of  Ex-Gov.  Frederick  Hoi- 
brook,  who  was  Governor  of  Vermont  during  the  first  two 
years  of  the  Rebellion,  and  to  whom  much  is  due  for  the  quick 


BKATTLEBORO. 


121 


response  Vermont  made  to  the  call  for  troops ;  Gen.  J.  W. 
Phelps,  a  graduate  of  West  Point,  a  participator  in  the  Florida, 
Mexican  and  Utah  wars  and  also  in  the  Great  Rebellion,  serv- 
ing with  Gen.  Butler  in  the  Department  of  the  Gulf;  and 
Charles  C.  Frost,  the  Scientific  Shoemaker,  who,  besides  con- 
ducting his  usual  business,  has  acquired  several  languages 
and  become  one  of  the  most  noted  botanists  in  the  country. 
Brattleboro  is  also  the  home  of  Larkin  G.  Mead,  Jr.,  the  Ver- 
mont Sculptor,  who,  for  several  years,  has  resided  in  Italy.  Mr. 
Mead,  when  a  lad,  modeled  a  statue  in  snow  in  the  last  night 
of  the  year,  at  the  head  of  Main  street,  and  when  the  villagers 
went  forth  to  their  labor  New  Year's  morning,  they  beheld  the 
"Recording  Angel,"  with  tablet  in  hand,  apparently  in  the  act 
of  recording  the  events  of  the  opening  year.  This  first  attempt 
at  sculpture  gained  him  notoriety  at  once,  and  his  first  patron 
was  the  late  Nicholas  Longworth,  the  Cincinnati  millionaire. 
Subsequently  the  State  gave  him  a  commission  to  execute  in 
marble  a  full  length  statue  of  Ethan  Allen,  which  has  been 
placed  in  the  vestibule  of  the  State  House  at  Montpelier.  It 
was  eminently  fitting,  as  well  as  quite  poetical,  that  Vermont 
should  give  a  commission  to  a  gifted  son  to  perpetuate  the  out- 
ward semblance  of  her  greatest  hero,  in  her  greatest  product — 
marble. 

Many  distinguished  people  have  made  Brattleboro  a  summer 
resort.  Daniel  Webster,  when  United  States  Senator,  from 
Massachusetts,  used  frequently  to  visit  the  place,  and  it  is  said 
that  the  policy  to  be  pursued  in  Congress,  which  led  to  his  great 
debate  with  Hayne,  was  originated  here,  while  stopping  with 
the  late  Hon.  Jonathan  Hunt,  then  member  of  Congress. 

The  population  of  Brattleboro  is  not  far  from  4,000. 

THE    BRATTLEBORO    HOUSE. 

The  hotels  at  Brattleboro  furnish  good  accommodations  for 
the  tourist.     The  Brattleboro  House  on  Main  Street  has  lono- 
6 


122 


THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 


been  known  as  one  of  the  best  kept  houses  in  Vermont,  and  its 
proprietor,  Cbas.  G.  Lawrence,  has  no  superior  as  a  caterer  to 
public  taste. 

The  Wesselhosft  House,  by  P.  B.  Francis  &  Co.,  is  one  of 
the  oldest  and  best  summer  houses  in  the  Connecticut  Valk  y, 


to 
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and  none  have  had  so  many  patrons.  It  was  formerly  the 
Wesselhoeft  AVater-cure,  but  of  late  years  it  has  been  opened 
for  the  accommodation  of  summer  guests. 


THE     BRATTLEBORO    HOUSE.  J  23 

DISCOVERY    OF   AN    ELEPHANT's    TUSK. 

In  1865  a  workman,  while  digging  muck  on  a  farm  in  Brat- 
tleboro,  found,  about  five  feet  below  the  surface,  a  part  of  the 
tusk  of  an  elephant,  forty-four  inches  in  length,  eighteen  in  cir- 
cumference at  the  largest,  and  eleven  at  the  smallest  end.  It 
was  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  and  was  taken  to  Montpelier 
and  placed  in  the  historical  rooms  at  the  State  House.  It  be- 
longed to  a  species  of  elephant  long  since  extinct,  that  inhabited 
the  northern  part  of  North  America,  having  wandered  across 
the  Siberian  plains  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  Behrings  Strait,  and 
beyond,  to  this  country,  south,  to  about  the  parallel  of  40 
degrees.  Their  bones  show  them  to  have  been  about  twice  the 
weight  and  one-third  taller  than  the  modern  species.  The  tusk 
teeth  and  some  bones  of  one  of  these  elephants  were  found  in  a 
muck  bed  at  the  summit  of  the  Green  Mountains,  in  Mount 
Holly,  in  1848,  by  workmen  who  were  building  the  railroad  from 
Bellows  Falls  to  Rutland. 

WAXTASTIQUET    AND    MINE   MOUNTAINS. 

Opposite  Brattleboro,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut,  are 
Wantastiquet  and  Mine  Mountains,  the  former  rising  from  the 
river  to  the  hight  of  1,061  feet.  The  latter  extends  east- 
ward from  Wantastiquet,  and  is  only  separated  from  it  by  a 
narrow  gorge.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century,  a 
party  sunk  a  shaft  many  feet  into  the  solid  rock  on  Mine 
Mountain,  in  search  of  silver,  which  they  had  incredulously 
been  led  to  believe  existed  there,  but  after  the  expenditure  of 
large  sum  of  money  the  enterprise  was  abandoned. 

WEST    RIVER. GEN.    STARK. 

Leaving  Brattleboro,  the  railroad  continues  along  the  bank  of 
the  Connecticut,  and  for  some  distance  the  mountain  scenery  on 
the  opposite  side  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  About  a  mile  north 
of  the  village  you  cross  We.-t  River  on  a  bridge  at  its  moulh. 


124  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Its  Indian  name  is  Wantastiquet,  signifying  straight,  or  arrowy. 
It  rises  among  the  Green  Mountains,  and  is  a  very  rapid  stream. 
A  httle  way  north  of  West  River,  near  the  dwelHng  seen  on 
the  opposite  side,  Gen.  Stark  crossed  the  Connecticut  with  an 
Aid,  on  his  way  from  Manchester,  to  fight  the  battle  of  Ben- 
nington. The  gallant  General  was  taken  across  the  river  by  the 
ferryman,  in  a  little  old  canoe,  and  soon  afterwards  achieved  a 
great  victory  over  the  invaders  of  our  country. 

DUMMERSTON,    PUTNEY,    AND    EAST    PUTNEY. 

Continuing  north,  the  small  stations  of  Dummerston,  Putney, 
and  East  Putney  are  passed.  Just  north  of  Putney,  the  vil- 
lage will  be  seen  west  of  the  railroad.  Opposite  East  Putney 
is  the  village  of  Westmoreland,  in  New  Hampshire,  one  of  the 
churches  standing  upon  the  hill  north-west  of  the  village.  Above 
the  church  can  be  seen  the  tracli  of  the  Cheshire  railroad, 
curving  eastward. 

WESTMINSTER THE    FIRST    BLOOD    OF    THE    REVOLUTION. 

About  twenty  miles  from  Brattleboro  and  four  from  Bellows 
Falls,  is  Westminster.  This  is  a  place  of  great  historic  inter- 
est, as  here  begun  the  opening  scenes  of  the  American  Revo- 
lution. A  bitter  quarrel  had  sprung  up  between  the  royal 
authorities  in  New  York  and  the  people  who  had  purchased 
land  in  Vermont  under  the  New  Hampshire  grants — the  latter 
not  wishing  to  acknowledge  the  illegitimacy  of  the  authority 
under  which  they  held  their  titles.  It  was  finally  determined 
that  the  New  York  royal  court  should  not  hold  its  approaching 
session  at  Westminster,  and  after  trying  to  dissuade  the  judge 
from  holding  the  court,  who  gave  some  equivocal  promises,  the 
people,  unarmed,  seized  the  court  house  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
day  that  the  court  was  to  be  held.  The  royal  authorities,  not 
liking  to  be  put  down  by  what  they  considered  a  mob,  attempted 
to  enforce  their  rights  by  arms.  At  eleven  o'clock  at  night, 
while  the  people  of  Westminster  had  possession  of  the  court 


WALPOLE.  125 

house,  the  royal  authorities  fired  into  it,  mortally  wounding 
WilHam  French  and  Daniel  Houghton.  This  occurred  March 
13th,  1775.  French  tvas  only  22  years  of  age,  and  was  a  resi- 
dent of  Brattleboro.  Previous  to  the  attack  on  the  court 
house,  he  went  from  Brattleboro  to  Dummerston,  where  he 
joined  the  Dummerston  Rangers.  He  was  buried  in  Westmin- 
ster, and  the  grave  is  still  seen  in  the  village  cemetery.  The 
original  grave  stone  is  in  existence,  and  is  kept  in  the  old 
church  The  court  house  stood  at  the  top  of  the  hill  in 
the  highway,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  depot.  The  principal 
men  of  the  royalist  party  were  seized  and  carried  under 
escort  of  Col.  Benjamin  Bellows,  the  founder  of  "VValpole,  to 
Northampton,  Mass.,  and  lodged  in  jail.  The  New  York 
authorities  however,  afterwards  procured  their  release. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  \Yestminster  massacre  so  enraged  Gen. 
Gage,  at  Boston,  the  British  commander,  showing  as  he  thought 
the  determined  spirit  of  the  people  to  resist  British  authority, 
that  he  was  induced  to  march  to  Lexington  and  inflict  the  blow 
which  opened  the  Revolution.  If  so,  Westminster  is  entitled 
to  the  honor  of  being  the  birth  place  of  American  liberty. 

The  oldest  church  now  in  Vermont  is  stiU  standing  in  West- 
minster, and  can  be  seen  from  the  cars — the  only  one  in  the 
village  having  a  spire.  It  was  erected  in  1770.  It  is  now  used 
as  a  shop  and  town  hall. 

The  legislature  of  Vermont  held  some  of  its  first  sessions  in 
the  town,  and  the  first  printing  office  in  the  State  was  estab- 
lished here  in  1778,  and  the  first  paper,  the  Vermont  Gazette, 
in  1781. 

The  village  lies  about  a  mile  south  of  the  depot,  upon  broad 
table  land,  and  is  very  pleasantly  situated. 

AVALPOLE THE    HOME    OP    THE    BELLOWS    FAMILY. 

Opposite  Westminister,  lying  above  the  river,  is  the  pleasant 
village   of  Walpole,  one  of  the  prettiest  and  neatest  in  the  val- 


126  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

ley  of  the  Connecticut.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  the  dwellings 
large  and  elegant.  There  is  little  business  in  the  town,  and  it 
is  chiefly  noted  as  the  home  of  the  Bellows  family,  descendants 
of  Col.  Benjamin  Bellows,  the  founder  of  the  town,  who  came 
here  from  Lunenburg,  Mass.,  more  than  a  hundred  years  ago. 
The  members  of  the  family  who  have  been  abroad  and  secured 
wealth,  have  usually  come  back  to  the  old  home  to  spend  the 
remainder  of  their  days.  Among  those  who  have  summer  resi- 
dences here  is  Rev.  Dr.  Henry  W.  Bellows,  of  New  York,  a 
great  grandson  of  the  founder  of  the  town.  His  cottage  can  be 
seen  just  south  of  the  village,  near  a  large  brick  dwelling. 

The  descendants  who  wished  to  honor  their  distinguished 
ancestor,  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  country  in  1854  and 
erected  a  marble  monument  in  the  village  cemetery  to  his  mem- 
ory. An  address  was  delivered  by  Rev.  Dr.  Bellows,  giving  an 
account  of  the  early  settlement  of  the  place. 

Col.  Bellows  received  a  grant  of  the  township  of  Gov. 
Wentworth,  and  came  to  Walpole  in  1752,  where  he  built  a 
fort  upon  an  impregnable  point,  overlooking  the  Connecticut,  a 
mile  north  of  the  village,  near  the  house  now  owned  by  Thomas 
Bellows.  He  organized  a  town  government,  and  seems  to  have 
been  moderator,  town  clerk,  and  selectman — all  in  one.  He 
was  a  marked  man,  and  rendered  great  service  in  enlisting  and 
equipping  men  for  the  Revolution. 

Before  Col.  Bellows  built  his  mill,  he  was  obliged  to  carry 
his  corn  to  Northampton,  Mass.,  to  have  it  ground,  going  down 
in  boats  in  the  Spring,  and  returning  with  meal  and  other 
stores. 

Within  the  last  few  years  Walpole  has  become  quite  a  place 
of  resort  during  the  summer,  and  there  is  a  large  boarding 
house  on  the  hill,  and  a  hotel  in  the  village,  where  good  accom- 
modations are  provided. 

Two  miles  north  of  the  village  is  a  mineral  spring,  where 
bathing  houses  have  been  built.  It  has  been  named  Abenaquis, 
after  the  Indian  tribe  who  inhabited  this  region. 


JOHN     KILBURN.  127 

Travelers  who  have  been  abroad  state  that  the  scenery 
around  Walpole  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  that  around 
Berne,  in  Switzerland.  From  Derrv  Hill  can  be  seen  Saddle" 
back,  Monadnock,  Ascutney,  and  the  whole  Green  Mountain 
range.  Blanchard  and  Ravine  Falls,  near  the  village,  have 
many  admirers  among  those  stopping  in  the  town. 

AN    INDIAN    ATTACK THE    HEROISM    OF    JOHN   KILBTTRN. 

John  Kilburn  was  another  of  the  early  settlers  of  Walpole. 
When  Col.  Bellows  came  to  the  town  he  found  Kilburn  in 
a  garrisoned  house,  near  Cold  River,  about  two  miles  north  of 
Walpole.  In  the  summer  of  1755  two  men  were  shot  by 
Indians.  "  Shortly  before  this,"  says  Dr.  Bellows  in  his 
address,  "  an  Indian  by  the  name  of  Philip  had  visited  Kil- 
burn's  house  in  a  friendly  way,  pretending  to  be  in  want  of  pro- 
visions. He  was  supplied  with  flints  and  flour  and  dismissed. 
It  was  ascertained  that  this  same  Indian  had  visited  all  the 
settlements  on  the  river,  doubtless  to  procure  information  of  the 
state  of  their  defenses.  Word  came  from  Governor  Shirly 
that  500  Indians  were  collecting  in  Canada  whose  aim  was  the 
butchery  and  extinction  of  the  whole  white  population  on 
the  river. 

Col.  Benj.  Bellows  had  at  this  time  about  30  men  at  his  fort, 
about  half  a  niile  south  of  Kilburn's,  but  too  distant  to  afford 
him  any  aid.  About  noon  on  the  17th  day  of  August,  1755, 
Kilburn  and  his  son  John,  in  his  eighteenth  year,  a  man  by  the 
name  of  Peak  and  his  son,  were  returning  home  to  dinner  from 
the  field,  when  one  of  them  discovered  the  red  legs  of  the 
Indians  among  the  alders,  'as  thick  as  grasshoppers.'  They  in- 
stantly made  for  the  house,  fastened  the  doors  and  prepared  for 
an  obstinate  defense.  Kilburn's  wife  Ruth,  and  his  daushter 
Hetty,  were  already  in  the  house.  In  about  fifteen  minutes* 
the  savages  were  seen  crawhng  up  the  bank  east  of  the  house, 
and  as  they  crossed  a  foot  path,  one  by  one,  197  were  counted; 


128         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

about  the  same  number  it  afterward  proved  had  remained 
in  ambush,  near  the  mouth  of  Cold  River,  but  joined  the 
attacking  party  soon. 

The  savages  appeared  to  have  learned  that  Col.  Bellovi's  and 
his  men  were  at  work  at  his  mill,  about  a  mile  east,  on  what  is 
now  called  the  Blanchard  Brook,  near  where  it  was  crossed  by 
the  Drewsville  road,  and  they  intended  to  waylay  and  murder 
them  before  attacking  Kilburn's  house.  Col.  Bellows  and  his 
men  were  now  returning  home,  each  with  a  bag  of  meal  on  his 
back,  when  the  dogs  began  to  growl  and  betray  the  neighbor- 
hood of  an  enemy.  The  Colonel,  knowing  the  language  of  the 
dogs  and  the  wiles  of  the  Indians,  instantly  adopted  his  policy. 
He  directed  his  men,  throwing  off  the  meal,  to  crawl  carefully 
to  the  rise  of  the  land,  and  on  reaching  the  top  of  the  bank 
to  spring  together  to  their  feet,  give  one  whoop  and  instantly 
drop  into  the  sweet  fern.  The  movement  had  the  desired  effect 
to  draw  the  Indians  from  their  ambush.  At  the  sound  of  the 
whoop,  fancying  themselves  discovered,  the  whole  body  of 
the  savages  rose  from  the  bushes  in  a  serai-circle  round  the 
path  Col.  Bellows  w^as  to  have  followed.  His  men,  fired  upon 
the  Indians,  and  they  were  so  disconcerted  that  they  darted 
into  the  bushes  and  disappeared.  The  Colonel,  sensible  of  his 
unequal  force,  hurried  his  men  off  by  the  shortest  cut  to  the 
fort,  and  prepared  for  its  defense. 

The  Indians  then  determined  to  take  vengeance  upon  a 
weaker  party,  and  soon  appeared  on  the  eminence  east  of  Kil- 
burn's house.  Here  the  same  treacherous  Philip,  who  had 
visited  him  and  partaken  of  his  hospitality  so  short  a  time 
before,  came  forward  under  the  shelter  of  a  tree,  and  summon- 
ed the  little  garrison  to  surrender.  ^  Old  John,  Young  John,' 
was  his  cry,  *  I  know  ye,  come  out  here.  We  give  you  good 
quarter.'  '  Quarter ! '  vociforated  old  Kilburn,  in  a  voice  of 
thunder,  '  You  black  rascals,  begone,  or  we'll  quarter  you.' 
It  was  a  brave  reply  for  four  men  to  make  to  four  hundred ! 


JOHN    KILBURN.  129 

Philip  returned,  and  after  a  short  consultation,  the  war-whoop 
rang  out,  as  if,  to  use  the  language  of  an  ear-witness,  "all  the 
devils  in  hell  had  been  let  loose."     Kilburn  was  lucky  and  pru- 
dent enough  to  get  the  first  fire,  before  the  smoke  of  the  battle 
perplexed  his  aim,  and  was  confident  he  saw  Philip  fall.     The 
fire  from  the  little  garrison  was  returned  by  a  shower  of  balls 
from  the  savages,  who  rushed  forward  to  the  attack.     The  roof 
next  to  the   eminence  from  which  the  attack  was  made,  was  a 
perfect  "riddle-sieve."     Some  of  the  Indians  fell  at  once  to 
butchering   the   cattle ;  others  to  a  wanton  destruction  of  the 
grain,  while  the  larger  part  kept  up  an  incessant  fire  at  the 
house.     Meanwhile   Kilburn  and  his  men — aye,  his  women — 
were  all  busily  at  work.     Their  powder  they  poured  into  their 
hats  for  greater  convenience ;  the  women  loaded  the  guns,  of 
which  they  had  several  spare  ones — all  of  them  being  kept  hot 
by  incessant  use.     As  their  stock  of  lead  grew  short,  they  sus- 
pended blankets  over  their  heads  to  catch  the  balls  of  the  ene- 
my, which  penetrated  one  side  of  the  roof  and  fell  short  of  the 
other.     These  were  immediately  run  by  these   Sparlan  women 
into  bullets,  and  before  they  had  time  to  cool,  were  sent  back  to 
the  enemy  from  whom  they  came.     Several  attempts  were  made 
to  force  the  door,  but  the  unerring  aim  of  the  marksmen  within 
sent  such  certain  death  to  their  assailants,  that  they  soon  desis- 
ted from  their  efforts.      Most  of  the  time   the  Indians  kept 
behind  logs  and  stumps,  and  avoided  as  they  best  could,  the  fire 
of  the  little    Gibralter.     The  whole  afternoon,   even  till  sun- 
down, the  battle   continued,  until,  as  the  sun  set,  the  savages 
unable  to  conquer  so  small  a  fortress,  discouraged  and  baffled) 
forsook  the  ground,   and  as  was  supposed,  returned  to  Canada, 
abandoning  the  expedition  on  which  they  had  set  out.     It  is  not 
unreasonable  to  suppose  that  their  fatal  experience  here,  through 
the  matchless   defense  of  those  Walpole  heroes  and  heroines, 
was  instrumental  in  saving  hundreds  of  the   dwellers  on  the 
frontier  from  the  horrors  of  an  Indian  massacre. 
6* 


130  THE     CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Seldom  did  it  fall  to  the  lot  of  the  early  settlers  to  win  a 
more  brilliant  crown  than  John  Kilburn  earned  in  this  glorious 
exploit.  Peek  got  the  only  wound  of  his  party,  receiving  a 
ball  in  the  hips,  from  exposure  at  a  port-hole,  which  unhappily, 
for  lack  of  surgical  care,  caused  his  death  on  the  fifth  day.  The 
Indians  never  again  appeared  in  Walpole,  although  the  war  did 
not  terminate  until  eight  years  afterward.  John  Kilburn  lived 
to  see  his  fourth  generation  on  the  stage  and  enjoying  the  ben- 
efits of  a  high  civilization  on  the  spot  he  had  rescued  from  the 
savages.  A  plain  stone  in  Walpole  burying  ground  commemo- 
rates his  departure,  and  speaks  his  eulogy  in  a  brief,  expressive 
phrase. 

His  son  John  last  visited  the  scenes  of  his  youthful  exploits 
in  1814,  and  died  at  Shrewsbury,  Yt.,  in  1822. 

"What  amount  of  destruction  Kilburn  made  among  the  sava- 
ges it  was  impossible  to  tell,  as  they  carefully  carried  off  and 
concealed  their  dead." 

MOUNT    KILBURN THE    GOVERNOE'S    CALF    PASTURE. 

Opposite  Bellows  Falls  village,  in  New  Hampshire,  is  Mount 
Kilburn,  formerly  known  as  Fall  Mountain.  It  is  little  over 
800  feet  high,  and  from  the  summit  a  fine  view  of  the  village 
and  the  distant  mountain  peaks,  is  had.  The  early  settlers 
gave  it  the  name  of  Fall  Mountain  from  the  fact  that  at  its 
has )  are  the  Great  Falls  in  the  Connecticut.  In  1856  Presi- 
dent Hitchcock  and  the  Students  of  Amherst  and  Middlebury 
Colleges  met  at  Bellows  Falls  and  christened  it  Mount  Kilburn, 
in  honor  of  the  hero  who  fought  the  Indians  so  gallantly  from 
his  little  fort,  just  below  the  south  end  of  the  mountain.  This 
mountain  is  situated  in  Walpole,  and  was  included  in  the 
grant  to  Col.  Benj.  Bellows,  the  founder  of  the  town.  Quite 
and  amusing  anecdote  is  related  concerning  it,  which  is  given 
below : 

"  Gov.  Wentworth,  in  his  grants  of  land  reserved  500  acres 
in  each  township,  and  in  making  his  selection  in  Walpole,  con- 


BELLOAVS    FALLS.  131 

suited  Colonel  Bellows,  as  to  what  was  the  mOst  favorable 
portion  to  lay  claim  to, — expressing  his  own  decided  preference 
for  five  hundred  acres  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
Great  Falls  as  the  probable  site  of  the  future  settlement.  The 
Colonel  very  honestly  told  him  that  the  land  thereabout  would 
,  make  a  very  good  calf  pasture,  but  nothing  better.  The  Gov- 
ernor, perhaps  imagining  that  the  Colonel  washed  to  appropri- 
ate these  lands  to  himself,  and  so  discouraged  his  own  selection 
of  them,  at  once  resolved  to  lay  his  claim  there,  and  his  500 
acres  on  the  rocky  sides  of  Fall  Mountain  were  for  some  time 
jocosely  called  '  the  Governor's  calf  pasture.' " 

Almost  worthless  when  selected,  portions  of  the  500  acres 
have  become  exceedingly  valuable,  owing  to  the  superior  fine 
timber  found  there. 

BELLOWS     FALLS. 

Distance  from  New  York,  220  miles;  Montreal,   225;  White  Mountains,  101 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  145;   Quebec,  311. 

In  approaching  Bellows  Falls  the  attention  of  the  tourist  will 
be  called  to  the  river  and  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  the 
vicmity.  For  a  considerable  distance  below  the  falls,  the  river 
is  very  rapid,  and  presents  a  beautiful  appearance,  and  at  no 
place  along  its  whole  course  is  there  so  much  wild  grandeur. 
Above  the  village  the  river  curves  to  the  eastward  and  passes 
close  to  the  base  of  Mount  Kilburn,  which  rises  precipitously 
to  the  hight  of  828  feet.  It  then  curves  slightly  towards  the 
west  and  rushes  wildly  over  the  rocky  bed,  down  through  a 
narrow  gorge,  and  out  into  a  broader  channel  below.  A  large 
rock  divides  the  stream  into  two  channels,  each  about  90  feet 
wide.  In  low  water,  the  river  flows  into  the  western  channel 
and  is  contracted  to  about  1 6  feet  in  width.  The  river  in  pass- 
ing over  the  several  rapids  makes  a  descent  of  42  feet.  The 
toll  and  railroad  bridges  cross  the  river  over  the  falls,  and 
from  the  former  a  good  view  of  them  is  had.  Below  the 
bridge  numberless  pot-holes  will  be  observed  of  various  dimen- 


132  THE   CONI^ECTICUT  VALLEY   GITIDE. 

sions,  wOm  in  the  solid  rock.  "West  of  the  station  rises  a  high 
hill,  and  beyond  it  is  a  valley,  only  a  few  Feet  above  the  river 
bank.  It  is  supposed  by  geologists  that  this  was  once  the  bed 
of  the  Connecticut,  and  the  many  terraces  in  the  vicinity 
strengthen  this  opinion.  It  is  also  claimed  that  the  region 
above  the  falls  was  once  a  vast  lake,  and  that  its  outlet  flowed 
eastward  into  the  Merrimac,  from  a  point  further  north. 

Bellows  Falls  received  its  name  from  Col.  Bellows,  the 
founder  of  Walpole,  and  it  was  formerly  a  great  fishing  place 
with  the  Indians,  who  came  here  to  catch  shad  and  salmon. 
The  latter  were  so  numerous,  even  after  the  whites  settled  in 
this  region  that  workmen  in  making  yearly  contracts  for  their 
labor  stipulated  that  they  should  not  be  obliged  to  eat  salmon 
oftener  than  twice  a  week — a  condition,  which  at  the  present 
time  they  would  hardly  be  so  particular  to  require. 

The  first  bridge  across  the  Connecticut  was  built  at  this 
place  in  1785,  and  was  365  feet  in  length.  For  eleven  years  it 
was  the  only  bridge  across  this  river. 

A  canal,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length,  was  constructed  many 
years  ago  around  the  falls  on  the  western  side,  and  it  was 
thought  that  a  large  manufacturing  village  would  at  some 
future  day  be  built  here.  Its  growth,  however,  has  been  quite 
slow,  although  there  are  now  a  number  of  firms  extensively 
engcaged  in  manufacturino;. 

Summer  tourists  have,  of  late  years,  spent  considerable  time 
here.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  extensive  and  very  pleas- 
ant. A  favorite  one  with  old  residents  is  to  Warner's  Pond,  in 
Alstead,  N.  H.,  where  picnics  are  held. 

THE     ISLAND     HOUSE. 

This  hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Charles  Towns,  is  one  of  the  best  in 
the  State,  and  has  long  been  a  favorite  with  tourists.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  eminence  east  of  the  station  and 
overlooks  the  river  and  valley.     The  rooms  are  large  and  con- 


KEFRESHMENT     ROOMS. 


133 


THE    ISLAND    HOUSE. 

veniently  arranged.     A  livery  stable  is  kept  in  connection  with 
the  hotel. 


REFRESHMENT   ROOMS. 

Tourists  who  do  not  remain  over  can  get  warm  meals  at  the 
extensive  refreshment  rooms  in  the  station,  very  neatly  kept 
by  Mr.  F.  A.  George.  The  trains  going  north  stop  here  long 
enough  to  give  passengers  time  for  dinner. 

The  Rutland  and  Burlington,  and  the  Cheshire  Railroads  in- 
tersect the  Valley  line  at  this  place. 

A    MRS.    PARTINGTON    ON    THE    CARS. 

One  of  those  ridiculous  incidents,  which  are  sufficient  to  pro- 
duce a  smile  at  a  funeral,  occurred  on  the  Cheshire  Railroad, 
early  in  the  winter  of  1865.  A  lady  of  venerable  aspect 
appeared  on  the  platform  at  the  depot  in  Bellows  Falls,  with 
the  inevitable  band  box  and  bundle.  She  paced  up  and  down 
the  platform  in  a  very  happy  frame  of  mind,  beguiling  herself 
in  humming  a  cradle  song,  and  to  all  appearance  was  at  peace 
with  herself  and  the  "  rest  of  mankind."  In  due  season  Con- 
ductor H.  H.  Stone  appeared  and  sliouted  "  all  aboard."  The 
old  lady  not  heeding  the  admonition,  he  inquired  her  proposed 


134  THE    COXNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

destination.  "  Going  to  Fitchburg,  sir,"  was  her  reply.  "  "Well, 
madam,  you  had  better  get  into  those  cars  if  you  want  to  go  to 
Fitchburg."  "  What !  doesn't  this  whole  consarn  go  ?  "  allud- 
ing to  the  depot.  "  Not  to-day,  madam ;  you  had  better  get 
into  that  car."  "  Wall,  now.  Mister,  is  that  so  ?  Jist  carry  this 
bundle — I  never  rid  a  rod  on  the  railroad  in  my  life."  The  old 
lady  was  escorted  on  board  and  the  train  departed.  Passing 
the  summit  and  descending  into  the  Ashuelot  Valley,  near 
Keene,  the  passenger  train  overtook  the  freight,  out  of  steam 
and  "  stalled  "  in  the  deep  snow.  It  moved  up  to  the  freight 
train  and  was  about  to  give  it  aid,  when  down  came  an  engine 
under  full  headway.  A  severe  snow  storm  was  raging,  and  so 
completely  obscured  the  track  that  the  signal  man  who  had 
been  sent  back  was  not  seen.  It  thundered  on  at  a  fearful 
rate  down  the  grade,  and  in  an  instant  had  run  its  whole  length 
completely  inside  of  the  rear  passenger  car.  Several  persons 
were  instantly  killed,  and  others  were  groaning  horribly  from 
injury  and  fright.  The  passengers  leaped  out  of  doors  and 
windows,  and  for  a  while  great  consternation  prevailed.  The 
conductor  as  he  saw  nothing  of  the  old  lady,  thought  it  more 
than  probable  that  she  had  been  killed.  He  entered  the  car  in 
search  of  her,  and  to  his  great  astonishment  found  her  sitting 
quietly  alone.  Notwithstanding  she  had  made  a  complete  som- 
ersault over  the  seat  in  front,  and  her  bundle  had  gone  uncere- 
moniously down  the  aisle,  she  maintained  a  wonderful  placid 
expression  upon  her  countenance,  exhibiting  neither  fear  nor 
astonishment.  "  Are  you  hurt  ? "  inquired  the  conductor. 
"  Hurt,  why  ?  "  said  the  old  lady.  "  We  have  just  been  run 
into  by  an  engine,  two  or  three  passengers  have  been  killed  and 
several  others  severely  injured,"  replied  the  conductor.  "  La 
me ;  I  didn't  know  but  that  was  the  way  you  alvmys  stopped^ 

GOING    NORTH. 

Leaving  Bellows  Falls,  you  cross  the  Connecticut  River  into 
New  Hampshire,  and  continue  on  the  west  side  of  the  river 
untilyou  reach  the  bridge  at  Windsor,  26  miles  distant. 


CHARLESTOWN.  135 


CHARLESTOWN. 

Passing  the  small  station  at  South  Charlestown,  you  come  to 
Charlestown,  eight  miles  from  Bellows  Falls.  The  village, 
which  will  be  seen  east  of  the  railroad,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in 
western  New  Hampshire.  It  was  formerly  known  as  Number 
Four,  and  in  1747  a  garrison  of  30  men,  commanded  by  Capt. 
Phineas  Stevens,  was  attacked  by  400  French  and  Indians, 
who,  after  making  three  days  siege  were  obliged  to  abandon  the 
project  and  return  to  Canada.  When  commanded  to  surrender 
by  the  French  General,  who  boasted  of  his  superior  numbers 
and  of  the  probable  massacre  that  would  take  place  when  the 
fort  was  captured,  Capt.  Stevens  very  coolly  replied :  "  I  can 
assure  you  my  men  are  not  afraid  to  die."  Sir  Charles 
Knowles,  a  British  naval  officer  at  Boston,  when  he  learned  of 
Capt.  Stevens  bravery  presented  him  an  elegant  sword,  and 
from  this  circumstance,  when  the  township  was  incorporated  it 
was  named  Charlestown.  The  village  is  very  pleasant,  and 
for  several  years  quite  a  number  of  city  people  have  spent  the 
summer  here. 

Passengers  for  Springfield,  Vermont,  which  is  six  miles 
west,  leave  the  railroad  at  this  place.  Springfield  is  a  large 
manufacturing  town,  and  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  places 
in  Vermont.  The  scenery  along  Black  River,  in  and  around 
the  town,  is  remarkable  for  its  beauty  and  wildness. 

NORTH     CHARLESTOWN. 

At  this  station,  five  miles  from  Charlestown,  a  fine  view 
of  Ascutney  Mountain  is  had,  west  of  the  Connecticut.  The 
scenery,  on  the  west,  in  the  valley  is  exceedingly  picturesque. 

CLAREMONT. 

Twelve  miles  from  Windsor,  and  fourteen  from  Bellows  Falls 
is  Claremont  Station.  The  village  is  two  miles  east  of  the 
railroad.  It  contains  some  four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  there  is  a  large  manufacturing  interest  in  the  place. 


136  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 


SUGAR    RIVER    BRIDGE. 

Soon  after  leaving  Claremont  Station,  you  come  to  the 
bridge  over  Sugar  River.  This  stream  furnishes  water  power 
for  the  manufactories  at  Claremont.  The  bridge  is  600  fee 
long  and  105  above  the  river.  On  the  west  bank  of  the  Con- 
necticut, from  this  place,  will  be  seen  Ascutneyville,  a  small  vil- 
lage in  Wethersfield. 


ASCUTNEY    MOUNTAIN. 

This  mountain  which  is  seen  on  the  west  side  of  the  Con- 
necticut is  3,320  feet  high  and  is  situated  in  Windsor  and 
Wethersfield.  It  is  an  isolated  peak,  and  its  bold  and  rocky 
summit  forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape  for  many 
miles  around.  Three  deep  valleys  course  their  way  down  the 
western  side  of  the  mountain,  and  from  this  fact  it  is  stated  that 
the  Indians  called  it  Ascutney,  signifying,  "  Three  Brothers." 
The  view  from  the  summit  is  the  most  grand  and  extensive  of 
any  in  Eastern  Vermont.  Below  is  the  beautiful  Connecticut, 
winding  itself  among  the  hills  and  forests,  while  hundreds 
of  farm  houses  and  villages  are  scattered  seemingly  over  a 
vast  plain.  A  road  has  been  constructed  from  Windsor  to  the 
summit,  a  distance  of  five  miles,  and  horses  and  guides  can  be 
obtained  of  Mr.  Cushing  of  the  Windsor  House  at  Windsor. 
There  is  a  rude  house  on  the  mountain,  to  protect  the  tourist 
in  *case  of  storm. 

WINDSOR. 

Distance  from  New  York,  246  miles ;  Montreal,  199 ;  "White  Mountains,  75; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  145;    Quebec,  285. 

From  Sugar  River  Bridge  to  Windsor  the  scenery  is  grand 
and  beautiful.  Below,  on  the  west,  is  the  Connecticut,  while 
still  beyond  rises  the  lofty  summit  of  Ascutney,  the  grim 
sentinel  of  the  valley.  Crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Connecti- 
cut, which  was  carried  away  by  ice  in  the  spring  of  1866> 
you   again  enter  Vermont.      Here  nestling  among  the  shade 


HARTLAND.  137 

trees  upon  the  hillside  is  the  ancient  and  beautiful  town  of 
Windsor.  West  of  the  depot,  fronting  on  Main  Street,  which 
extends  north  and  south,  is  seen  the  United  States  Court 
House,  built  several  years  ago  by  the  Government  at  great  ex- 
pense. It  is  also  occupied  as  a  Post  Office.  The  Vermont 
State  Prison  is  located  at  this  place,  on  a  street  west  of  Main. 
The  average  number  of  convicts  is  about  80,  and  they  are  em- 
ployed in  manufacturing  scythe  snaths.  Is  not  Vermont  set- 
ting a  bad  example  by  teaching  her  "  crooked  sticks,"  who  are 
sent  to  prison  to  be  made  straight,  to  make  straight  sticks 
crooked  ? 

The  constitution  of  Vermont  was  formed  and  adopted  in 
this  town,  and  the  building  in  which  the  convention  was  held  is 
still  standing  on  Main  Street,  occupied  as  a  shop. 

Hon.  Wm.  M.  Evarts  and  E.  W.  Stoughton,  distinguished 
members  of  the  New  York  bar,  have  summer  residences  here. 
Mr.  Evarts  owns  a  large  farm  north  of  the  village,  the  exten- 
sive buildings  on  which  are  seen  just  after  leaving  the  depot, 
west  of  the  railroad. 

Formerly  there  was  considerable  manufacturmg  in  the  town, 
and   during  the  rebellion  Lamson  &  Goodnow  were   employed     S 
to  make  guns  for  the  Government.      This  firm  is  now  engaged     \ 
on  other  work. 

Cornish  liills   in   New  Hampshire,  opposite   Windsor,    rise 
to  considerable  hight,  and  the  view  from  them  is  very  extensive. 

HARTLAND. 

Four  miles  north  of  Windsor  is  Hartland.  Before  reaching 
the  depot  you  cross  Lull's  Brook,  which  is  seen  coursing  its 
way  down  a  narrow  valley,  and  from  the  cars  can  be  seen  a 
beautiful  waterfall.  This  stream  received  its  name  from  Tim- 
othy Lull,  of  Dummerston,  the  first  settler  of  the  town,  who, 
with  his  wife  and  children,  came  up  the  Connecticut  in  a  canoe, 
in  1763,  and  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  brook.     Taking  out  a 


138  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

bottle  and  breaking  it  in  presence  of  his  little  family,  he  gave 
his  own  name  to  the  little  stream,  by  which  it  has  since  been 
known.  The  valley  in  this  vicinity  is  rich  in  alluvial  deposits, 
but  after  passing  the  depot  the  aspect  of  the  country  is  soon 
changed,  the  soil  now  being  light  and  sandy. 

NORTH    HARTLAND. 

This  station  is  four  miles  from  Hartland,  and  six  from  Wliite 
River  Junction.  Passing  North  Hartland  you  come  to  the 
valley  of  Otta  Quechee  River.  Here  the  railroad  crosses  that 
stream  on  a  bridge  650  feet  long  and  about  80  feet  above  the 
water.  As  you  pass  over  the  bridge  you  will  notice  the  beau- 
tiful waterfall  west  of  the  railroad,  where  the  Quechee  makes  a 
perpendicular  descent  of  about  fifteen  feet.  This  river  is  of 
Indian  origin,  and  was  formerly  called  Ottageechee,  taking  its 
name  from  the  manner  in  which  the  water  tumbles  and  whirls 
down  the  rocks  at  the  falls. 

WHITE    EIVER    JUNCTION. 

Distance  from  New  York,  260  miles;   Montreal,  185;    White  Mountains,  61 ; 
Lake  Memphremagog,  105;  Quebec,  271. 

Before  reaching  the  station  the  village  of  Lebanon,  in  New 
Hampshire,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  will  be  seen 
in  full  view.  The  most  prominent  building  is  Tilden  Female 
Seminary,  a  flourishing  institution,  under  the  management  of 
Hiram  Orcutt,  Esq.,  of  the  Glenwood  Seminary,  at  West 
Brattleboro. 

White  River  Junction  is  one  of  the  most  important  railroad 
stations  on  the  line.  From  this  point  trains  from  the  North, 
South,  East,  and  West,  meet.  The  Vermont  Central  Railroad 
here  passes  into  the  valley  of  White  River,  and  pursues  a  more 
westerly  course,  while  the  Northern  New  Hampshire  Road, 
forming  a  junction  with  it,  crosses  the  Connecticut  and  connects 
at  Concord,  N.  H.,  with  other  roads  leading  into  Boston.  The 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad  extends  from  this 


THE    EATING    HOUSE    AND    HOTEL.  139 

place  in  a  northerly  course,  crossing  White  River  at  its  mouth, 
just  north  of  the  station,  to  Newport,  on  Lake  Memphemagog, 
passing  through  the  rich  and  fertile  valleys  of  the  Connecticut 
and  Passumpsic  Rivers.  Travelers  to  the  White  Mountains 
take  this  railroad  to  Wells  River  where  they  connect  with  the 
railroad  to  Littleton  and  thence  by  stage  to  the  various  points 
in  the  mountains. 

In  going  either  to  the  White  Mountains,  or  Mount  Mansfield 
there  is  no  change  of  cars  at  White  River  Junction.  If  the 
tourist  is  going  to  the  White  Mountains  he  should  take 
a  seat  in  the  forward  car  before  reaching  the  Junction,  and  if 
to  Mount  Mansfield,  in  the  rear,  or  one  of  the  Vermont 
Central  cars. 

For  a  description  of  the  route  from  White  River  Junction  to 
White  Mountains,  Lake  Memphremagog  and  Quebec,  see 
page  70. 

THE    EATING   HOUSE    AND    HOTEL. 

The  trains  stop  at  White  River  Junction  for  dinner,  and 
in  the  depot  can  be  procured  good  meals.  A  table  is  spread  in 
the  dining  hall  adjoining  the  refreshment  rooms,  and  here 
the  wants  of  the  inner  man  are  abundantly  supplied.  Early 
fruits  and  vegetables  are  furnished  in  their  season,  and  at 
few  places  on  the  line  can  so  good  a  dinner  be  obtained. 

The  proprietors,  the  Messrs.  Barrons,  also  keep  the  Junction 
House,  a  few  rods  west  of  the  depot,  where  the  tourist  can 
remain  over  night  and  take  the  morning  train  for  the  White 
Mountains,  if  he  prefers. 

WHITE    RIVEK. 

Tourists  for  Mount  Mansfield  and  points  on  the  Vermont 
Central  Railroad,  on  leaving  White  River  Junction  enter  the 
valley  of  White  River,  keeping  close  upon  the  bank  of  that 
stream.  The  Indian  name  of  the  river  is  Kaskadnac,  signify- 
ing white   pebbles,  with  which  the  bottom  is  strown.     This  i^ 


140  THE    CONNECTICCT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

the  largest  river  in  Vermont,  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains. 
At  its  mouth  it  is  quite  broad,  but  very  shallow. 

WOODSTOCK. 

This  is  a  small  station,  three  miles  from  White  River  Junc- 
tion. Passengers  for  Woodstock,  the  shire  town  of  Windsor 
County,  leave  the  cars  at  this  place.  The  scenery  continues 
picturesque  and  beautiful  and  a  short  distance  west  of  the  sta- 
tion, White  River  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  650  feet  in  length. 

WEST     HARTFORD. 

Eight  miles  from  White  River  Junction  is  the  station  of 
West  Hartford.  The  village  is  small  and  lies  between  the 
railroad  and  the  river.  The  high,  steep  hills,  and  green  pas- 
tures give  a  pleasant  aspect  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  The 
river  is  more  narrow  than  at  its  mouth,  and  assumes  a  torrent 
like  character. 

SHARON". 

Before  reaching  this  station  White  River  is  crossed  on  a 
bridge  400  feet  long.  The  depot  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river  and  the  village  on  the  north.  The  town  was  settled  in 
1765  by  emigrants  from  Connecticut. 

SOUTH    ROYALTON. 

Here  is  a  quiet,  pretty  village,  situated  in  a  valley  of  consid- 
erable extent.  A  large  hotel  fronts  the  village  green  upon  the 
south,  a  short  distance  from  the  railroad.  This  station  is  18 
miles  from  White  River  Junction,  and  is  the  first  stopping  place 
for  express  trains  going  west.  Soon  after  leaving  the  station 
the  river  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  600  feet  long,  built  in  1865. 

ROYALTON. 

The  village  is  south  of  the  depot,  and  contains  several  stores. 
In  1780  this  town  was  attacked  by  Indians,  who  burnt  twenty 
houses,  killed  two  whites,  and  took  twenty-five  prisoners.     The 


BETHEL.  141 

Indians  were  on  their  way  to  make  an  attack  on  Newbury  and 
capture  Lieut.  Whitcomb,  who  had  wontonly  shot  Gen.  Gordon, 
a  British  officer,  between  Chambly  and  St.  Johns,  and  robbed 
him  of  his  watch  and  sword.  Meeting  some  whites  in  the 
woods,  they  misled  the  Indians  by  stating  that  there  was  a  large 
force  at  Newbury,  which  had  the  effect  to  turn  their  attention 
to  Royalton. 

BETHEL. 

North  of  the  village,  and  directly  in  rear  of  it,  the  hills  rise 
abruptly  to  the  hight  of  nearly  500  feet.  There  is  a  bank  and 
several  stores  in  the  town.  This  township  was  the  first  one  in 
the  State,  granted  by  the  government  of  Vermont.  All  express 
trains  stop  at  this  station. 

WEST   RANDOLPH. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  thriving  places  on  the 
route  east  of  the  summit.  The  buildings,  many  of  which  have 
recently  been  erected,  are  tastefully  built,  and  the  whole  place 
has  the  appearance  of  prosperity.  Passengers  for  Chelsea,  the 
shire  town  of  Orange  County,  leave  the  railroad  at  this  station. 
The  old  village  of  Randolph  is  three  miles  north  of  here,  where 
is  located  the  Randolph  Grammar  School. 

BRAINTREE. 

Upon  reaching  Braintree,  the  general  aspect  of  the  country 
is  changed  from  beautifully  rounded  hills  and  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion to  a  rocky  and  mountainous  region.  The  narrow  valley 
and  general  wildness  of  the  view  give  beauty  and  grandeur  to 
the  scene. 

ROXBURY THE    SUMMIT    OF    THE    GREEN    MOUNTAINS. 

Passing  on  through  the  deep,  narrow  gorge,  you  at  last  come 
to  Roxbury  station,  at  the  summit  of  the  Green  Mountains. 
Here  in  the  same  swamp,  and  only  a  few  feet  apart,  are  the 


142  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

head  waters  of  White  and  Dog  Rivers — the  former  flowing  east 
into  the  Connecticut,  and  the  latter  west  into  Lake  Champlain. 
Near  the  summit  is  a  quarry  of  American  verd  antique  marble. 
West  of  the  station  a  bridge  400  feet  long  is  crossed. 

NORTHFIELD. 

Sixty-four  miles  from  White  River  Junction,  and  ten  miles 
from  Montpelier  is  Northfield.  Here  were  located  the  shops 
of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  which  are  seen  south  of  the 
depot.  They  are  quite  extensive,  but  since  the  removal  of  the 
principal  business  formerly  done  in  them,  to  St.  Albans,  they 
are  occupied  only  for  making  repairs.  Gov.  Charles  Paine 
who  was  the  projector  of  this  railroad,  and  whose  father  made 
the  first  clearing  in  the  town,  is  buried  in  the  cemetery  at  this 
place.  There  are  some  eight  or  ten  slate  quarries  in  this  to^Ti, 
some  of  which  will  be  noticed  upon  the  hillside  north  of  the 
railroad. 

MOi^^TPELIER   JUNCTIOIT. 

From  this  place  a  branch  railroad  extends  easterly  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  village  of  Montpelier,  the  capital  of  the  State. 

MONTPELIER. 

Distance  from  New  York,  324  miles;  Montreal,  122;  Quebec,  302;  "White  Moun- 
tains, 125;  Lake  Memphremagog,  169. 

Leaving  the  Junction  by  the  train  on  the  branch  road,  in  a 
few  minutes  you  are  landed  at  Montpelier,  the  capital  of  Ver- 
mont. The  village,  which  contains  some  three  or  four  thousand 
inhabitants,  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Winooski,  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river.  Fine  views  are  had  of  the  village 
from  the  hills  which  overlook  it. 

The  capitol,  which  is  the  pride  of  the  town,  stands  in  rear  of 
the  square,  at  the  west  end  of  the  village,  fronting  on  State 
Street.  The  building  is  of  granite,  of  the  Grecian  Doric 
order,  a,nd  in  point  of  beauty  has  no  superior  in  the  New  Eng- 


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MIDDLESEX.  143 

land  States.  In  the  portico  stands  a  life  size  statue  of  Ver- 
mont's greatest  hero,  Ethan  Allen,  carved  in  Vermont  marble 
by  a  Vermont  Sculptor,  Larkin  G.  Mead,  Jr.,  of  Brattleboro. 
The  old  hero  stands  with  uplifted  hand,  and  as  you  look  upon 
his  massive  brow  and  stern  features,  fancy  runs  back  to  the 
command  of  surrender  in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah 
and  Continental  Congress.  In  the  State  House  can  be  seen 
the  regimental  flags,  which  were  triumphantly  borne  over  the 
battlefields  of  the  Rebellion  by  stalwart  hands,  fresh  from  their 
Green  Mountain  homes.  The  visitor  after  looking  upon  these 
sacred  relics  should  not  fail  of  visiting  the  geological  and  his- 
torical rooms,  where  are  deposited  many  rare  and  curious 
specimens. 

There  are  two  banks  of  issue,  two  fire  and  one  life  insurance 
company  in  the  town.  Of  manufacturing  establishments  there 
are  several  doing  an  extensive  business.  James  R.  Langdon, 
the  wealthiest  man  in  the  place  is  largely  engaged  in  manufac- 
turing flour.  He  is  said  to  be  worth  three  quarters  of  a 
million  dollars. 

There  are  six  churches.  Congregational,  Baptist,  Indepen- 
dent, Episcopal  and  Catholic.  Within  a  few  years  several  new 
edifices  have  been  erected,  and  no  town  in  the  State  has  more 
neat  and  commodious  places  of  worship. 

MIDDLESEX. 

Leaving  Montpelier  Junction,  the  tourist  enters  the  valley 
of  the  AYinooski,  and  the  views  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
are  grand  and  beautiful.  Before  the  train  reaches  the  station, 
the  rapids,  over  which  the  water  flows  with  great  rapidity,  will 
attract  attention.  Middlesex  Narrows,  a  channel  through  the 
solid  rock,  made  by  the  Winooski  river,  is  an  object  of  interest. 
For  about  80  rods  the  river  has  worn  a  channel  in  the  rock  60 
feet  wide  and  30  feet  deep.  Passing  westerly,  Camel's  Hump, 
the  second  highest  peak  in  the  State,  is  seen  towering  far  above 
the  neighboring  summits.  :* 


144  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

WATERBURY. 

At  this  station,  73  miles  from  White  River  Junction  and  31 
miles  from  Burlington,  the  tourist  leaves  the  railroad  to  visit 
Mount  Mansfield,  going  ten  miles  north  by  stage  to  Stowe,  where 
there  is  the  largest  and  most  complete  summer  hotel  in  the 
State.  This  village  is  situated  in  quite  an  extensive  valley, 
surrounded  by  beautiful  hills  and  lofty  mountain  peaks,  and  for 
a  quiet  summer  resort  it  has  few  equals.  The  Waterbury 
Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  N.  P.  Keeler,  capable  of  accommodating 
100  guests,  was  recently  built,  and  has  no  superior  for  the 
accommodation  of  tourists.  It  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  locality, 
a  short  distance  from  the  railroad,  and  the  rooms  are  large  and 
airy.  The  drives  to  Bolton  Falls,  three  miles  west,  where  there 
is  a  natural  bridge  over  the  river,  and  eight  miles  to  Camel's 
Hump,  as  well  as  the  many  others,  are  pleasant  and  charming. 
Gov.  Paul  Dillingham  is  a  resident  of  this  town. 

THE    ROUTE    TO    STOWE    AND    MOUNT    MANSFIELD. 

The  tourist  should  not  fail  to  visit  Mount  Mansfield,  from 
which  is  had  the  most  extensive  view  m  New  England,  except 
from  the  White  Mountains.  To  do  so  you  will  leave  the  rail- 
road at  Waterbury  and  take  the  stage  to  Stowe,  ten  miles 
northward.  The  ride  is  charming  indeed,  with  Mr.  Durkee  on 
the  box.  Take  a  seat  with  him,  and  he  will  point  out  to  you 
the  many  places  of  interest  along  the  route.  Before  reaching 
Stowe,  Old  Mansfield  looms  up  in  the  distance,  the  Nose  and 
Chin  rising  above  the  neighboring  peaks. 

Stowe  is  a  quiet,  pretty  country  village,  lying  in  the  valley 
between  Mansfield  and  Worcester  mountains,  and  no  lovlier 
spot  can  be  found  for  a  summer  residence,  if  one  wishes  to  be 
in  close  proximity  to  extensive  mountain  scenery.  The  summit 
of  Mansfield  is  eight  miles  from  Stowe,  but  this  is  the  head- 
quarters of  mountain  visitors,  as  here  is  the  spacious  Mansfield 
House,  and  here  horses  and  carriages  are  provided  for  those 
going  to  the  mountain. 


THE    MANSFIELD  HOUSE. 


145 


THE    MANSFIELD    HOUSE THE    WALKS    AND    DRIVES. 

This  spacious  and  elegant  hotel,  in  the  village  of  Stowe,  was 
built  by  a  stock  company,  and  opened  to  visitors  in  1865.  It  is 
200  feet  long,  three  stories  high,  and  has  a  wing  in  rear  45  by 
90  feet.  It  will  accommodate  300  guests.  In  the  rear  wing, 
on  the  first  floor,  is  the  dining  room,  and  on  the  second  there  is 
a  dancing  hall,  each  45  by  60  feet.  Mr.  W.  H.  H.  Bingham  is 
President  of  the  Hotel  Company  and  principal  manager,  and 
Mr.  Leonard  Love  is  Clerk.  There  are  billiard  tables  and  a 
bowling  alley  connected  with  the  house.  A  livery  stable,  with 
nearly  a  hundred  horses,  is  also  owned  by  the  company. 

The  walks  and  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  unsurpassed  by 
those  of  any  other  summer  resort  in  New  England.  Sunset 
Hill,  east  of  the  hotel,  is  a  favorite  with  all.  From  here  is 
seen  the  village  at  your  feet,  and  the  valley  for  many  miles 
north  and  south.  East  is  the  "Worcester  mountain  ransre. 
South,  Camel's  Hump,  and  West  Old  Mansfield  in  all  its 
grandeur. 

7 


146         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

The  principal  drives  are,  to  Mt.  Maiivsfield,  eight  miles ; 
Smugglers'  Notch,  eight  miles — one  of  the  most  wild  and 
romantic  places  in  the  country ;  Bingham's  Falls,  five  miles ; 
Moss  Glen  Falls,  three  and  a  half  miles ;  Gold  Brook,  three 
miles  ;  West  Hill,  two  miles  ;  Morrisville  Falls,  eight  miles ; 
Johnson  Falls,  12  miles ;  Nebraska,  six  miles. 

During  the  summer  the  stages  from  Stowe  to  Waterbury  con- 
nect with  all  the  principal  trains. 

MOUNT    MANSFIELD. 

Before  reaching  the  village  of  Stowe,  or  from  the  observatory 
of  the  Mansfield  House,  the  tourist  can  get  a  good  view  of 
Mount  Mansfield.  The  outline  of  the  summit  resembles  the 
human  features.  Old  Mansfield,  as  is  imagined,  is  in  a  recHn- 
ing  posture,  his  face  turned  upward.  The  north  peak  represents 
the  chin,  the  middle  the  nose,  and  the  southern  the  forehead. 
This  mountain  is  the  highest  in  Vermont,  and  from  it  can  be 
seen  elevations  in  every  county  in  the  State.  The  Chin  is  4,348 
feet  above  the  sea,  3,800  feet  above  the  village  of  Stowe,  and 
340  above  the  Nose.     The  Nose  is  160  feet  above  the  Forehead. 

Having  surveyed  the  outHne  of  this  grand  old  mountain,  the 
tourist  will  take  a  seat  in  the  Mountain  Coach,  or  upon  the  back 
of  a  trusty  pony,  and  set  out  for  the  summit.  For  several 
miles  the  road  extends  along  the  valley  by  the  side  of  a  small 
river.  Coming  to  the  base  of  the  mountam  you  turn  to  the  left 
and  commence  the  ascent.  The  road  soon  winds  along  through 
the  forest,  and  you  are  finally  brought  to  the  door  of  the  Half- 
Way  House.  Here  is  a  clearing  of  a  few  acres,  and  to  the  left 
of  the  house,  which  is  somewhat  primitive  in  appearance,  is  a 
magnificent  spring,  gushing  in  great  volume  from  the  mountain 
sid^.  You  will  want  to  stop  here  a  few  minutes  and  drink  of 
its  pure  and  refreshing  waters,  and  gaze  upon  the  extensive  and 
lovely  landscape  in  the  valley  below.  As  the  coaches  do  not 
go  beyond  this  point,  you  who  have  come  hither  in  them  will 


MOUNT    MANSFIELD.  147 

mount  one  of  the  sure  footed  ponies  in  waiting  at  the  door,  and 
continue  the  trip  to  the  summit.      Entering  the  forest  again, 
your  faithful  animal  walks  slowly  up  the  mountain,  seemingly 
conscious  of  the  task  before  him.     From  the  Half- Way  House 
to  the  summit  the  distance  is  three  miles  ;  but  if  this  is  your 
first  trip  you  will  be  ready  to  affirm  that  it  is  at  least  six.     As 
you  approach  the  summit,  the  trees  are  of  the  more  hardy  kinds, 
stinted  in  growth  and  quite  unlike  those  in  the  valley.     Reach- 
ing the  eastern  face  of  the  Nose,  you  halt  here  for  a  few  min- 
utes to  take  a  view  of  the  valley  in  the  east.     Turning  west- 
ward to  your  right,  you  look  down  into  Smugglers'  Notch,  which 
seems  near  enough  to  reach  at  a  single  bound  over  the  tree  tops. 
It  is  a  deep  gorge,  winding  between  the  mountains,  and  received 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  in  former  years  a  contraband  trade 
was  carried  on  by  early  settlers  with  Canada,  the  participators 
in  it  going  and  coming  by  this  unfrequented  route.     The  scene 
is  wild  and  beautiful  in  the  extreme,  and  you  are  inclined  to 
linger  here  in  contemplating  its  sublimity.     As  you  leave  the 
spot  you  proceed  towards  the  Summit  House,  which  is  only  a 
short  distance  off.     On  your  left  rises  the  Nose  some  two  or 
three  hundred  feet,  like  a  massive  wall.     Looking  upward  and 
towards  the  summit,  farther  west,  you  catch  the  first  view  of 
the  "Old  Man  of  the  Mountain."     His  features  are  quite  well 
formed,   and  are  decidedly  Websterian  in  appearance.      Pro- 
ceeding forward  you  at  last  reach  the  Summit  House,  a  large 
and  commodious  hotel,  capable  of  holding  a  hundred  guests. 
Resting  a  few  minutes,  and  then  leaving  your  ponies  at  the 
stable,  you  walk  to  the  western  face  of  the  Nose,  a  few  rods  dis- 
tant, which  you  ascend.     Reaching  the  summit,  you  involunta- 
rily exclaim, — Eureka !  what  a  view !     Neither  the  pencil  of 
the  artist,  nor  words  of  the  poet,  have  adequately  described  it. 
Its    grandeur    and    sublimity  surpass    description.      Here  you 
are,  nearly  4,000  feet  above  the  valley,  which  lies  at  your  feet. 
The  Winooski  is  hardly  seen,  except  here  and  there,  resembling 


148  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

the  smallest  possible  rivulet.  On  either  hand,  as  far  as  you  can 
see,  the  eye  rests  upon  hundreds  of  mountain  peaks,  stretching 
away  into  the  thick,  dark  haze  which  surrounds  them. 

West  lies  the  great  valley  of  the  Champlain,  and  still  beyond, 
16  miles  distant,  is  the  lake  itself,  the  whole  length  of  which 
comes  under  the  eye.  A  few  miles  from  its  western  shore  rises 
the  lofty  peaks  of  the  famous  Adirondacks. 

North  is  the  wide  spread  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  in 
favorable  weather,  with  the  aid  of  the  glass,  steamers  can  be 
seen  upon  its  waters.  Montreal  Mountain,  with  the  city  at  its 
base.  Jay  Peak,  and  Owl's  Head,  the  latter  rising  from  the 
west  bank  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  form  prominent  features  in 
the  landscape. 

In  the  east  the  Franconki  range  and  the  "White  Mountains, 
sixty  miles  distant,  limit  the  vision,  while  the  intervening  space 
is  covered  with  numberless  hills  and  mountains. 

South  can  be  seen  Camel's  Hump,  Killington  Peak  and 
Ascutney. 

Lideed,  as  one  contemplates  this  sublime  landscape  he  is  in- 
spired with  reverence  for  the  Great  First  Cause,  who  has 
shaped  all  so  beautifully  and  so  majestically. 

On  leaving  the  Nose,  you  will  want  to  visit  the  Chin  if  the 
day  is  not  too  far  advanced.  You  will  think  it  is  only  a  short 
distance  to  it,  and  wall  be  surprised  to  learn  that  it  is  two  miles. 
About  one-third  of  the  way  from  the  Nose  to  the  Chin  you 
will  notice  the  "drift  scratches"  upon  the  rock,  and  the  identical 
bowlder  which  made  them.  These  reveal  to  man  the  fact  that 
even  this  lofty  summit  was  once  beneath  the  ocean,  and  that 
icebergs  sailed  over  it. 

Having  visited  all  the  interesting  localities,  and  feasted  upon 
the  wonders  found  in  this  great  book  of  nature,  you  will  retrace 
your  steps  to  the  Mansfield  House  at  Stowe,  with  a  more  per- 
fect idea  of  the  immensity  and  grandeur  of  Green  Mountain 
scenery. 


BOLTON   FALLS.  149 

BOLTOJSr    FALLS. 

Leaving  Waterbury,  going  west,  you  cross  a  bridge  over 
Winooski  River,  425  feet  in  length.  Tlie  scenery  along  the 
river  increases  in  interest  as  you  approach  the  mountain  range. 
A  few  miles  below  Waterbury  you  come  to  Bolton  Falls,  seen 
north  of  the  railroad.  The  high  bluffs  on  either  side  of  the 
river  were  evidently  once  united,  forming  a  natural  bridge. 
Through  it  the  river  has  finally  worn  a  deep  and  narrow  chan- 
nel. Perpendicular  and  overhanging  rocks  form  the  gorge, 
while  huge  bowlders,  piled  together,  nearly  bridge  the  river  at 
low  water.  Just  after  passing  the  falls  the  tourist  can  get  a  good 
view  of  them  from  the  car  window,  where  he  will  notice  the 
foaming  stream  and  the  projecting  rocks  above.  The  highest 
peaks  of  the  Green  Mountains  are  nearly  in  line  with  these 
falls,  and  but  a  few  miles  distant. 

kidley's    station. 

At  this  place,  where  the  tourist  is  less  than  350  feet  above 
the  ocean,  he  is  passing  through  a  gap  4,000  feet  below  the  sum- 
mit of  Mount  Mansfield.  Visitors  to  Camel's  Hump  leave  the 
cars  at  this  station. 

camel's  hump. 

Leaving  the  railroad  at  Ridley's  and  going  south,  you  can 
reach  the  summit  of  Camel's  Hump,  six  miles  distant,  by  pri- 
vate teams.  A  good  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  three 
miles  up  the  mountain,  and  the  remainder  of  the  way  is  accom- 
plished on  horseback.  Not  far  from  the  summit  is  a  spring  of 
excellent  water,  and  also  a  house  for  the  accommodation  of 
visitors.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  similar  to  that  from 
Mount  Mansfield.  The  hight  above  the  sea  is  4,083  feet,  and 
some  over  3,800  above  Winooski  River.  The  peculiar  outline 
of  its  summit,  which  suggests  its  name,  and  its  comparatively 
isolated  position,  make  it  a  conspicuous  object  for  many  miles 

around. 

7* 


150  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

JONESVILLE. 

Three  miles  west  of  Bolton  is  Jonesville.  East  of  the  sta- 
tion the  valley  is  narrow,  and  in  full  view  from  the  cars  is  a 
beautiful  cascade  with  a  lofty  rock  near  it.  This,  with  the  wild 
scenery,  gives  the  place  an  unusually  picturesque  appearance. 

RICHMOND. 

Before  reaching  Richmond  the  valley  becomes  broader  and 
more  fertile.  The  village  lies  principally  north  of  the  station. 
Passing  westward  you  cross  Clark  Bridge  over  the  Winooski, 
600  feet  lonsj. 

WILLISTON. 

Passing  through  Williston,  which  is  an  excellent  agricultural 
region,  you  get  good  views  of  Mansfield  and  Camel's  Hump. 
Here  is  seen  the  profile  of  old  Mansfield,  outlined  on  the  sky 
beyond.  West  of  the  station  you  cross  Bradley  Bridge,  400 
feet  long. 

ESSEX   JUNCTION. 

Here  passengers  for  Burlington  change  cars,  taking  the  train 
which  runs  to  that  place,  eight  miles  distant. 

FROM    ESSEX   JUNCTION    TO    BURLINGTON. 

Soon  after  leaving  Essex  Junction,  the  view  of  Mansfield  and 
Camel's  Hump  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  one  is  greatly 
impressed  with  their  magnitude  and  grandeur.  Passing  from 
the  sandy  table  lands  you  enter  the  more  fertile  valley  of  the 
Winooski  River.  The  scenery  along  this  stream  is  highly  inter- 
esting. The  river  has  made  deep  gorges  through  the  limestone 
rock,  and  as  one  passes  over  the  two  railroad  bridges  he  will 
behold  the  perpendicular  and  overhanging  walls  of  rock,  which 
rise  on  either  side  to  the  hight  of  nearly  one  hundred  feet. 
North  of  the  railroad,  in  the  river,  a  rocky  island,  with  high, 
perpendicular  walls,  will  be  noticed,  crowned  with  fir  trees. 


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THE    TUNNEL.  151 

Continuing  towards  Burlington,  you  soon  come  to  Winooski 
Falls,  where  is  situated  the  manufacturing  village  of  Winooski. 
South  of  this  place,  upon  the  bluff  beyond,  can  be  seen  the 
granite  column,  42  feet  high,  erected  by  the  State  of  Vermont, 
at  the  grave  of  Ethan  Allen,  in  the  Burlington  cemetery. 

THE    TUNNEL. 

Leaving  Winooski,  you  soon  come  to  the  tunnel,  which 
extends  throusrh  a  hish  sand  bluff,  a  distance  of  350  feet. 
Passing  through  it  you  come  out  upon  the  shore  of  Lake  Cham- 
pl-ain,  within  the  limits  of  the  city  of  Burlington. 

The  mode  of  constructing  this  tunnel  was  unlike  that  of  any 
other  in  this  country.  Sharpened  stakes  were  driven  into  the 
sand  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  when  an  excavation  was  made 
below  them.  In  this  space  was  built  an  arch  of  masonry,  and 
when  completed  the  stakes  were  driven  further  into  the  bank, 
and  another  section  of  masonry  constructed.  This  process  was 
repeated  until  the  whole  work  was  finished.  In  the  lower  por- 
tions of  the  tunnel  there  were  occasionally  alternations  of  clay 
and  sand,  and  beneath  a  thin  stratum  of  clay,  at  the  depth  of 
80  feet  from  the  surface  a  live  toad  was  found,  occupying  a 
small  cavity  in  the  sand.  When  first  taken  out  he  was  in  a 
torpid  state,  but  upon  exposure  to  the  air  soon  showed  signs  of 
life,  and  became  as  active  as  others  of  his  species  that  are  found 
in  localities  supposed  to  be  more  favorable  to  longevity.  He 
lived  six  months,  and  his  skin  is  now  in  the  possession  of  a 
Burlington  gentleman. 

BURLINGTON. 

Distance  from  New  York,  364  miles ;  Montreal,  97;  Quebec,  277;  White  Moun- 
tains, 165;  Lake  Memphremagog,  209. 

Situated  upon  an  eminence,  sloping  westward  down  to  Lake 
Champlain,  which  it  overlooks,  Burlington  is  truly  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  places  in  Vermont.  The  tourist  will  ascend  Col- 
lege Street  to  the  University,  and  from  the  observatory  of  the 


V 


152         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

main  building  look  out  upon  the  grand  panorama  of  nature 
spread  before  him.  From  here,  beyond  the  lake  is  seen  the 
wild  mountain  region  of  Northern  New  York — numberless 
peaks  rising  far  above  the  lake  and  forming  a  landscape  of 
remarkable  beauty.  Close  to  the  beholder  lies  the  city  of  Bur- 
lington, covering  the  hillside  with  its  dwellings,  stores  and  work- 
shops. Beyond  is  Champlain  itself,  with  its  islands  and  bays. 
At  this  point  the  lake  is  ten  miles  wide,  but  one  unaccustomed 
to  measure  distance  upon  water  with  the  eye,  would  hardly 
think  it  was  more  than  five  or  six.  Juniper  Island,  with  its 
light-house,  and  comprising  some  eleven  acres  of  land,  is  a  con-; 
spicuous  object  in  the  foreground,  while  at  the  left  the  dark 
mass  seen  peering  above  the  water  is  Rock  Dunder.  Further 
towards  the  middle  of  the  lake  are  the  Four  Brothers — little 
gems  of  islands  arrayed  in  green.  North  and  south  the  dark 
waters  of  Champlain  extend  beyond  your  vision. 

Rock  Dunder  is  a  black  mass  of  naked  slate  rock,  nearly 
three  miles  from  shore,  a  little  south  of  the  city.  It  rises  twenty 
feet  above  the  water,  and  one  might  easily  suppose  it  to  be  a 
fort.  It  is  stated  that  when  the  British  fleet  approached  Bur- 
lington in  the  war  of  1812,  the  commander,  imagining  it  to  be 
some  infernal  Yankee  invention  to  blow  his  ships  to  atoms, 
opened  fire  upon  it,  and  after  an  ineffectual  attempt  to  sink  it 
in  the  lake,  he  concluded  that  it  was  a  useless  undertaking,  and 
gave  it  up. 

Opposite  Burlington,  in  New  York,  is  the  village  of  Port 
Kent,  and  near  it,  on  the  road  to  Keeseville,  is  some  remarka- 
ble scenery  on  the  Ausable  River — places  where  that  stream 
has  worn  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  through  the  solid  rock. 
Still  further  west  are  the  Adirondack  mountains,  where  peaks 
tower  majestically  heavenward ;  and  conspicuous  among  them 
are  Mt.  Mclntyre,  White  Face,  and  Mt.  Marcy — the  latter 
5,467  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  highest  point  between  the 
Wliite  Mountains  and  the  AUeghanies. 


BURLINGTON.  153 

Plattsburg,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  north  of  Port  Kent, 
can  be  seen  in  favorable  weather.  During  the  summer  steam- 
ers run  between  that  place  and  Burlington. 

Turning  eastward  you  will  behold  a  view  of  unusual  interest, 
although  not  equal  to  that  just  surveyed.  In  the  distance  are 
the  lofty  summits  of  Mansfield  and  Camel's  Hump,  while  the 
space  between  you  and  them  resembles  a  vast  plain  dotted  with 
patches  of  forest  and  cultivated  fields. 

The  Vermont  University,  from  the  observatory  of  which  the 
tourist  has  looked  upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  is  the  oldest 
educational  institution  in  the  State,  it  having  been  chartered  in 
1791.     It  received  from  the  State  a   grant  of  land  containing 
29,000  acres.     In  the  war  of  1812  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment occupied  the  University  as  a  depository  of  arms.     In  1824 
the  buildings  were  destroyed  by  fire,  and  in  1825  the  erection 
of  new  ones  was  begun.     The  north-west  corner  stone,  which 
bears  an  inscription,  was  laid  by  Gen.  Lafayette.     There  is  a 
medical  department  connected  with  the  University,  and  in  1865 
the  Vermont  State  Agricultural  College,  endowed  by  grants  of 
land  from  the  general  government,  was   also  united  with  it. 
Both  institutions  now  have  a  joint  fund  of  $300,000,  mostly  in 
real  estate.     Before  leaving  the  University  the  tourist  will  find 
it  worth  while  to   examine   the  specimens  of  natural  history 
belonging  to  the  institution.     He  will  also  notice  with  interest, 
near  the  entrance  to  the  grounds,  the  huge  bowlder,  about  three 
feet  in  diameter,  worn  perfectly  smooth  and  as  round  as  a  can- 
non ball  while  in  a  pot-hole  at  Northfield,  where  it  was  found 
several  years  ago. 

The  Vermont  Episcopal  Institute,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Episcopal  Church,  is  located  north  of  the  city,  fronting  upon 
Lake  Champlain.  It  is  an  elegant  structure,  and  can  be  seen 
from  the  University  buildings 

There  are  some  elegant  private  residences  in  the  city,  a  num- 
ber of  which  are  occupied  by  gentlemen  who  have  retired  or 
are  still  doing  business  in  New  York. 


154  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

East  of  the  University  is  Burlington  Cemetery,  where  are 
the  graves  of  Ethan  Allen  and  others  distinguished  in  the  his- 
tory of  Vermont.  The  Tuscan  column  of  granite,  42  feet  high, 
four  and  one-half  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base,  standing  upon  a 
pedestal  six  feet  square,  which  was  erected  by  the  State  in  1857 
to  the  memory  of  the  hero  of  Ticonderoga,  is  an  object  of  inter- 
est, and  is  in  keeping  with  the  character  of  him  whose  memory 
it  is  intended  to  perpetuate.  On  the  sides  of  the  pedestal  are 
inserted  four  marble  tablets,  suitably  inscribed. 

Burlington  has  a  population  of  8,000,  and  is  still  increasing. 
The  mercantile  business  of  the  place  has  for  many  years  been 
large,  a  number  of  firms  being  engaged  in  the  wholesale  trade. 
Its  lumber  interest,  however,  is  the  most  extensive,  the  annual 
sales  amounting  to  sixty  million  feet.  Burlington  is  the  fourth 
lumber  mart  in  this  country — only  Chicago,  Albany  and  Bangor 
doing  a  larger  business.  The  lumber  companies  are,  L.  Barnes 
&  Co.,  the  Hunterstown  Lumber  Company,  and  C.  Blodgett  & 
Son.  The  Hunterstown  Company  own  large  tracts  of  timber 
land,  and  saw  mills  on  the  Ottawa  River,  in  Canada. 

Among  the  business  enterprises,  are  the  Burlington  Manu- 
facturing Company,  who  have  rolling  mills  and  a  nail  factory, 
and  are  about  to  engage  in  manufacturing  railroad  iron  of  Bes- 
semer steel ;  flouring  mills,  a  sash  and  blind  factory,  a  pottery, 
woolen  mills,  the  Mechanic  Pioneer  Shops,  a  chair  factory,  and 
coffee  and  spice  mills. 

In  the  war  of  1812  some  4,000  American  troops  were  stationed 
here,  under  Gens.  Macomb  and  Wade  Hampton.  Fortifications 
were  thrown  up  in  the  north  part  of  the  city,  the  outlines  of 
which  are  still  visible. 

GOING   NORTH. 

Leaving  Burlington  the  tourist  will  return  to  Essex  Junction 
and  proceed  northward.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  gener- 
ally level,  and  void  of  interest. 


liiiamiiii 


COLCHESTER.  155 

COLCHESTER. 

Just  before  reaching  the  station  you  come  in  sight  of  Lake 
Champlain,  but  taking  a  more  northerly  course  you  leave  it  on 
the  left. 

MILTON. 

The  village,  which  lies  west  of  the  station,  contains  several 
mills,  situated  on  Lamoille  River.  South-east  of  the  village 
and  not  far  from  the  railroad,  are  the  Great  Falls  in  the  La- 
moille, which,  in  running  fifty  rods,  makes  a  descent  of  150  feet. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  cataract  is  a  small  island,  upon  each  side 
of  which  the  water  rushes  down  with  great  force,  tossing  the 
spray  into  the  air,  and  making  an  incessant  roar. 

GEORGIA. 

Before  reaching  Georgia  you  cross  a  high  bridge,  450  feet  in 
length,  over  Lamoille  River.  You  are  now  ten  miles  from  St. 
Albans,  and  are  descending  towards  the  lake,  which  comes  in 
view  several  miles  north  of  the  station.  Here  the  country  is 
level  and  has  the  appearance  of  a  good  agricultural  region. 

ST.    ALBANS. 

Distance  from  New  York,  381  miles ;  Montreal,  65;  Quebec,  245;  White  Moun- 
tains, 181 ;  Lake  Memphremagog,  225. 

Approaching  St.  Albans  from  the  south  the  village  is  seen 
spread  out  before  you  upon  a  broad  plain  and  a  gently  sloping 
hill  which  faces  the  west.  East  of  the  village,  and  about  a  mile 
from  the  depot,  there  is  quite  an  elevation,  upon  which  are  some 
extensive  and  neat  dwellings.  A  little  to  the  north-east  of  the 
village  is  Aldis  Hill,  and  to  the  south-west,  Bellevue.  From 
either  the  scenery  is  grand  and  beautiful.  Almost  at  the  feet 
of  the  tourist  is  the  village.  To  the  west  and  beyond  are  broad, 
green  fields,  reaching  down  to  Lake  Champlain,  two  and  a  half 
miles  distant.  North  and  south,  as  far  as  can  be  seen,  is  Cham- 
plain with  its  innumerable  islands,  and  beyond  are  the  lofty 


156  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

summits  of  the  Adirondack  range.  Almost  directly  north  is 
Montreal,  seen  with  the  aid  of  a  glass,  and  east  are  the  Green 
Mountains,  clothed  with  their  summer  verdure.  It  is  stated 
that  some  years  ago  four  Americans  met  in  Italy,  three  of  whom 
agreed  that  from  no  point,  with  the  same  altitude,  was  there  so 
fine  a  view  to  be  had  as  from  Aldis  Hill.  The  fourth  had  not 
ascendid  its  summit,  but  on  returning  to  this  country  he  went 
to  St.  Albans  for  that  purpose,  and  was  so  charmed  with  the 
scenery  that  he  settled  and  finally  died  in  the  town.  There  is 
something  so  magnificent  and  enchanting  in  the  scenery  from 
the  hights  about  St.  Albans — so  broad  and  so  beautiful — that  one 
feels,  as  he  gazes  off  upon  the  distant  lake  and  the  dark  moun- 
tain range  beyond,  himself  lifted  far  above  the  low  and  sorded 
in  life^-an  inward  yearning  towards  the  good  and  the  true. 

South  of  the  village  is  an  elevation  known  by  the  very  unpo- 
etical  name  of  Johnny  Cake  Hill.  It  received  this  appellation 
from  a  stranger,  who,  many  years  ago,  chanced  to  pass  that  way 
just  at  night,  in  the  early  settlement  of  the  place.  Applying  at 
a  farm  house  for  supper,  Johnny  Cake  was  offered  as  the  prin- 
cipal dish.  Not  choosing  to  partake  of  it,  he  declined  and  went 
to  another  house  in  search  of  supper.  Here  he  met  with  no 
better  success.  Traveling  on,  from  house  to  house,  wherever 
he  applied  the  inevitable  Johnny  Cake  was  sure  to  turn  up. 
From  this  circumstance  he  gave  to  the  locality  the  name  of 
Johnny  Cake  Hill,  by  which  it  has  since  been  known. 

Jesse  Welden  was  the  first  white  man  to  reside  within  the 
limits  of  the  town.  He  went  from  Bennington  to  St.  Albans 
before  the  Revolution,  and  on  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  he 
retired  to  a  locality  in  closer  proximity  to  civilization.  In  1784 
he  returned  and  erected  a  log  house  near  the  southern  end  of 
Main  Street.  Here  he  remained  for  quite  a  number  of  years, 
but  as  others  began  to  come  in  and  make  settlements,  he  plunged 
again  into  the  wilderness,  to  become  the  pioneer  of  other  local- 
ities.    At  one  time  he  owned  all  the  land  upon  which  the  vil- 


ST.    ALBANS.  157 

lage  of  St.  Albans  is  situated.     The  first  framed  house  in  the 
town  was  built  by  Eldad  Butler. 

The  principal  business  of  the  town  was  formerly  done  at  St. 
Albans  Bay,  at  the  lake,  two  and  a  half  miles  distant.  Since 
the  opening  of  the  railroad  the  Bay  has  become  a  mere  hamlet, 
while  the  village  at  the  center  of  the  township  has  grown  to 
stately  proportions. 

Main  Street,  running  north  and  south,  and  upon  which  the 
stores  are  mostly  located,  is  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  New 
England.  It  is  unusually  broad  and  very  straight  for  a  mile. 
On  either  side  are  rows  of  shade  trees,  mostly  maple.  North 
of  the  stores,  at  various  points  on  Main  Street,  are  seme  elegant 
and  spacious  dwellings — as  fine  as  any  seen  in  much  larger 
places.  East  of  the  business  part  of  the  village,  and  fronting 
on  Main  Street,  is  a  large  and  handsome  park,  containing  four 
acres.  It  is  covered  with  shade  trees,  and  in  a  few  years  will 
be  a  very  beautiful  and  inviting  spot.  Above  the  park,  and 
facing  it  on  the  east  side,  are  the  Congregational,  Episcopal  and 
Methodist  Churches,  the  Court  House  and  the  High  School 
building.     At  the  north  end  is  the  Welden  House. 

Franklin  County,  of  which  St.  Albans  is  the  shire  town,  is 
one  of  the  most  productive  in  the  State.  It  is  especially  adap- 
ted to  butter  and  cheese  making.  A  butter  market  is  held  at 
St.  Albans  every  Tuesday,  and  thousand  of  dollars  are  paid  to 
the  farmers  by  the  agents  of  Boston  merchants — frequently  as 
high  as  S30,000  in  a  single  day,  and  in  one  day  in  1865  $60,- 
000  were  paid  out.  No  other  town  in  Vermont  has  a  stated 
market  day.  Ice  cars,  loaded  with  butter,  are  sent  every  Tues- 
day night  in  the  summer  from  St.  Albans  to  Boston.  In  1865 
0,035,257  pounds  of  butter  were  shipped  from  St.  Albans,  which, 
at  an  average  of  40  cents  per  pound,  the  market  price  that  year, 
was  worth  $1,  214,102.80.  In  the  same  year  were  shipped 
1,174,261  pounds  of  cheese,  valued  at  15|  cents  per  pound, 
making  a  total  of  $182,010.48.     In  the  last  fifteen  years  there 


158  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY   GUIDE. 

were  shipped  33,603,044  pounds  of  butter,  valued  at  33  cents 
per  pound,  and  which  sold  for  $10,091,093.20.  For  the  same 
period  there  were  shipped  16,628,097  pounds  of  cheese,  which, 
valued  at  9  cents  per  pound,  would  bring  $1,496,527.73. 

St.  Albans  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
road. Here  live  its  principal  officers,  and  here  are  located  its 
various  shops  for  the  manufacture  and  repair  of  locomotives, 
passenger  and  freight  cars.  Nearly  all  the  locomotives  and 
cars  used  on  the  road  are  made  by  the  company,  and  they  are 
fully  equal  to  the  best  running  upon  the  New  England  roads. 
The  shops,  which  are  all  new  and  are  provided  with  the  best 
machinery,  are  the  most  extensive  of  any  in  the  eastern  States. 
The  machine  and  car  shops  are  each  600  feet  long  and  from  60 
to  75  feet  wide.  The  engine  houses,  one  of  which  has  recently 
been  erected,  are  also  very  extensive.  A  new  passenger  house  is 
now  being  built.  It  will  be  300  feet  long  and  sufficiently  wide 
for  four  tracks.  The  upper  stories  are  to  be  used  for  offices  by 
the  company. 

THE   WELDEN   HOUSE    AT   ST.   ALBANS. 

St.  Albans  was  for  a  long  time  deficient  in  hotel  accommoda- 
tions. In  1865  the  Welden  House,  built  by  a  corporation  at  a 
cost  of  $118,000,  and  named  in  honor  of  the  first  settler  of  the 
town,  was  opened  to  the  public,  and  it  is  acknowledged  to  be 
one  of  the  finest  hotels  in  the  country.  Pleasantly  situated  at 
the  north  end  of  the  park,  and  overlooking  the  village  and  the 
lake,  it  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  stopping  places  to  be  found. 
The  proprietors  are  Cool  &  McDonald,  and  under  their  man- 
agement the  Welden  will  ever  be  a  favorite  with  summer 
tourists. 

A  sulpher  spring  has  been  discovered  in  the  town,  which  has 
been  secured  for  the  guests  of  the  Welden  House.  Water 
from  the  Alburgh  and  Highgate  sulpher  springs,  and  from  the 
mineral  spring  in  Sheldon,  will  also  be  kept  at  the  hotel.  The 
Sheldon  spring  has  been  purchased  by  a  New  York  gentleman, 


5 

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160  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

and  some  remarkable  cures  have  been  made  by  using  its  waters. 

St.  Albans  is  the  residence  of  Ex-Governor  Smith,  one  of  the 
ablest  men  in  the  State.  His  residence  and  grounds,  on  the 
eminence  east  of  the  village,  which  it  overlooks,  are  very  fine. 
There  are  between  4,000  and  5,000  inhabitants  in  the  town,  and 
no  place  of  its  size  has  better  churches  or  high  school  build- 
ing. They  have  all  been  built  within  a  few  years — the  Con- 
gregational Church  at  a  cost  of  $27,000,  the  Catholic  at 
$25,000,  the  Episcopal  at  $15,000,  and  the  High  School 
building  at  $18,000. 

Ten  passenger  trains  arrive  and  depart  from  St.  Albans  daily, 
thus  affording  excellent  opportunities  to  visit  the  place.  The 
distances  from  it  to  the  large  cities  and  prominent  places  of 
interest  are :  To  New  York,  332  miles  ;  Boston,  260  ;  Sarato- 
ga, 149 ;  Burlington,  32  ;  Ogdensburg,  142  ;  Montreal,  65. 

THE   ST.   ALBANS    RAID. 

Not  even  a  thunder  storm  from  a  cloudless  sky  could  have 
astonished  the  people  of  St.  Albaijs  more  than  did  the  famous 
rebel  raid  on  Wednesday  afternoon,  Oct.  19th,  1864,  under  the 
leadership  of  the  so-called  Confederate,  Lieut.  Bennett  H. 
Young.  Nothing  unusual  had  happened  to  excite  suspicion, 
and  the  people  of  the  town  were  quietly  pursuing  their  accus- 
tomed vocations,  when  soon  after  three  o'clock  the  squad  of  ruf- 
fian robbers,  calling  themselves  Confederate  soldiers,  left  their 
hiding  places  and  went  forth  with  the  deliberate  purpose  of 
committing  great  crimes — robbery  at  all  events,  and  murder  if 
necessary.  All  at  once  the  town  was  in  great  commotion.  A 
band  of  armed  men  appeared  in  the  streets,  maddened  to  des- 
peration with  liquor.  The  banks  were  entered  and  robbed,  shots 
were  fired  at  unoffending  citizens,  horses  seized  and  ridden  off, 
and  all  without  meeting  hardly  a  shadow  of  opposition,  so  com- 
plete the  surprise  and  so  illy  prepared  were  the  people  to  resist. 
There  were  twenty-one  raiders  in  the  town,  five  of  whom 
entered  the  St.  Albans  Bank,  four  the  Franklin  County,  and 


M, 


THE    ST.   ALBANS   RAID.  161 

three  the  First  National  Bank.  The  others  remained  in  the 
street  to  prevent  a  capture.  About  $200,000  in  all  were  taken  ; 
$75,000  from  the  St.  Albans  Bank,  $50,000  from  the  First 
National,  and  the  balance  from  the  Franklin  County  Bank. 
Less  than  half  of  this  amount,  about  $90,000,  is  all  that  was 
afterward  recovered. 

When  the  raiders  entered  the  St.  Albans  Bank,  the  teller, 
Mr.  C.  N.  Bishop,  stepped  to  the  counter  to  wait  upon  them, 
supposing  that  they  had  some  ordinary  business  to  transact. 
Instantly  they  presented  their  revolvers  at  him,  and  taking  them 
to  be  robbers  he  sprang  into  the  rear  room,  where  the  acting  \  \ 
cashier,  Mr.  M.  A.  Seymour,  >yas  engaged.  The  robbers  fol- 
lowed and  seized  both  by  their  collars,  at  the  same  time  threat- 
ening to  shoot  them  if  resistance  was  made.  They  then 
announced  that  they  were  Confederate  soldiers,  come  to  retali- 
ate for  the  doings  of  Sheriden  in  the  Shenandoah  Valley.  Mr. 
Seymour  requested  the  privilege  of  taking  an  inventory  of  the 
property  about  to  be  carried  away,  so  that  a  claim  might  be 
made  upon  the  government.  "D — n  your  government,"  was 
the  reply.  "Hold  up  your  hands  and  take  the  Confederate 
oath."  To  save  their  lives  Mr.  Seymour  and  Mr.  Bishop  com- 
plied, and  they  are  the  only  ones  who  had  the  Confederate  oath 
administered  to  them  in  New  England. 

At  the  Franklin  County  Bank  the  raiders  found  the  cashier, 
Mr.  Marcus  W.  Beardsley,  and  a  wood  sawyer.  Both  were 
seized  and  locked  up  in  the  vault,  where  they  remained  until 
released  by  the  citizens  of  the  town  after  the  raiders  had  left. 
They  came  out  nearly  exhausted  and  pale  as  ghosts. 

Several  of  the  raiders  were  stationed  near  the  corner  of 
Lake  and  Main  Streets,  and  as  fast  as  any  came  up  either 
street  they  were  ordered  upon  the  park  at  the  peril  of  their 
lives.  Here  some  25  or  30  citizens,  unarmed,  were  herded 
together,  and  kept  there  until  .the  raiders  departed. 

Further  up  Main  Street  the  Confederates  were  busy  in  secur- 


\ 


> 


;( 


162  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

ing  horses.  Those  in  the  streets  and  livery  stables  were  seized. 
Mr.  Fuller,  seeing  his  led  out  by  his  hostler,  at  the  command 
of  one  of  the  raiders,  demanded  him  to  return  them  to  the 
stable.  Young,  the  leader,  drew  his  pistol  and  fired.  Mr.  Ful- 
ler stepping  behind  a  tree,  the  ball  passed  him  and  hit  Mr.  E. 
J.  Morrison,  the  contractor  of  the  Welden  House,  who  was 
standing  on  the  steps  of  the  store  north  of  the  Messenger 
newspaper  office.  He  was  taken  home,  and  died  on  the  21st, 
two  days  after.  Other  shots  were  fired  and  two  persons  were 
wounded,  but  both  recovered. 

In  a  short  time  the  raiders  had  seized  their  plunder  and  were 
galloping  up  Main  Street,  on  their  way  to  Canada.  As  soon  as 
possible  they  were  pursued  by  some  forty  citizens  of  St,  Albans, 
and  followed  so  closely  that  they  gave  up  the  plan  of  robbing 
the  Sheldon  Bank.  Still  pursued  they  were  driven  into  Can- 
ada. The  local  authorities  there  assisted  in  arresting  all  that 
could  be  found,  fourteen  of  them,  and  took  them  to  St.  Johns. 
From  here. they  were  transferred  to  Montreal  under  the  plea 
of  a  want  of  suitable  accommodations  for  conducting  the  trial. 
They  were  taken  before  Judge  Coursol,  and  about  $90,000  of 
the  stolen  money  found  in  their  possession  was  placed  in  the 
hands  of  Lamothe,  the  Chief  of  Police.  The  Judge,  after 
some  delay,  decided  that  he  had  no  jurisdiction  in  the  case,  as 
the  writ  had  not  been  issued  by  the  Governor  General,  and 
ordered  the  raiders  to  be  discharged  and  the  money  found  in 
their  possession  restored  to  them.  Another  writ  was  obtained, 
and  finally  four  of  the  party  were  arrested  at  Point  Levi,  near 
Quebec.  They  were  brought  before  Judge  Smith,  and  he  deci- 
ded that  the  case  did  not  come  under  the  Ashburton  treaty,  and 
so  here  ended  Canadian  justice. 

A  claim  was  made  upon  the  Canadian  Government  for  the 
return  of  the  $90,000  given  up  to  the  raiders  by  Judge  Cour- 
sol, and  Parliament  passed  an  act  for  that  purpose ;  $50,000 
in  gold,  equal  then  to  $90,000  in  currency,  was  given,  pro  rata, 
to  the  Banks. 


rouse's   point.  163 

rouse's   point. 

Rouse's  Point,  named  in  honor  of  an  early  settler  on  tlie 
adjoining  lands,  is  twenty-four  miles  from  St.  Albans.  Here  a 
bridge  one  mile  long  has  been  constructed  across  Lake  Cham- 
plain  by  the  Vermont  Central  and  the  Ogdensburg  Railroads. 
It  has  a  draw  or  boat-bridge,  300  feet  in  length,  which  is 
opened  by  a  steam  engine  for  the  purpose  of  permitting  vessels 
to  go  up  and  down  the  lake.  The  scenery  here  is  quite  inter- 
esting. Fort  Montgomery,  a  work  for  national  defense,  some 
200  rods  above  the  bridge,  will  be  seen  jutting  into  the  lake 
from  the  New  York  shore.  The  site  of  the  old  fort  was  some 
20  or  30  rods  south  of  the  present  one.  After  work  on  the 
new  fort  had  progressed  for  some  time,  it  was  ascertained  that 
it  had  been  located  north  of  the  45th  parallel,  and  the  British 
authorities  notified  our  Government  that  it  was  within  the 
limits  of  their  territory.  When  the  line  was  subsequently  run 
under  the  Ashburton  and  Webster  treaty,  concessions  were 
made  in  the  State  of  Maine  by  our  Government,  as  a  proper 
compensation. 

HIGHGATE    AND    ALBURGH    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

These  springs  have  long  been  resorted  to  for  the  cure  of 
cutaneous  and  scrofulous  diseases,  and  in  many  cases  have 
proved  efficacious.  The  Highgate  Spring  is  in  the  western 
part  of  Highgate,  twelve  miles  from  St.  Albans.  The  railroad 
from  St.  Albans  to  Montreal,  passes  between  the  hotel  and  the 
spring  house.  The  Franklin  House,  large  and  commodious^ 
is  a  delightful  summer  retreat.  In  rear  of  the  hotel  on  a 
gentle  eminence  is  a  grove  of  native  trees,  which  add  greatly 
to  the  beauty  of  the  place. 

The  Alburgh  Springs  are  seventeen  miles  from  St.  Albans, 
on  the  railroad  to  Rouse's  Point.  These  springs  have  been  a 
place  of  resort  since  1816,  and  the  number  of  visitors  is  grad- 


164  THE   CONNECTICUT  VALLEY   GUIDE. 

ually  increasing.  Here  are  two  hotels  for  the  accommodation 
of  visitors — the  Missisquoi  and  the  Mansion  House.  Each  will 
accommodate  a  hundred  guests.  Pleasure  seekers  come  here 
to  enjoy  fishing,  hunting  and  rowing  on  the  bay.  Here  the 
railroad  crosses  the  bay  on  a  bridge  4,200  feet  long. 

FROM   ST.    ALBANS   TO    MONTREAL. 

The  scenery  from  St.  Albans  to  Montreal,  a  distance  of  65 
miles  is  without  special  interest.  The  country  is  generally 
level  and  the  villages  are  small.  The  stations  are :  Junction, 
East  Swanton,  Highgate  Springs,  Province  Line,  St.  Armand, 
Moore's,  Stanbridge,  Des  Riveires,  St.  Alexandre,  Stanstead, 
Shefford,  and  Chambly  Junction,  St.  Johns,  Lacadie,  Bros- 
seau's,  St.  Lambert,  and  Montreal.  At  the  Stanstead,  Shef- 
ford and  Chambly  Junction  you  connect  with  that  road,  and  the 
Montreal  and  Champlain  Railway,  operated  by  the  Grand 
Trunk.  At  St.  Johns  you  cross  the  outlet  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  St.  Lambert  is 
opposite  Montreal,  at  the  entrance  to  Victoria  Bridge.  The 
country  for  some  distance,  in  Canada,  before  reaching  Montreal 
is  mostly  inhabited  by  the  French. 

MONTREAL. 

The  tourist  before  reaching  the  Victoria  Bridge,  when 
approaching  Montreal,  will  notice  Lachine  on  the  north  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  further  east  the  city  of  Montreal, 
with  the  Mountain  in  the  rear.  On  reaching  the  Victoria 
Bridge  across  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  train  passes  under  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  and  thence  eastward  until  it  reaches  the 
grade  of  that  road,  when  it  proceeds  toward  the  bridge.  Six 
or  eight  minutes  are  occupied  in  crossing  it,  and  you  then  pass 
the  offices  and  shops  of  the  Grand  Trunk,  curve  to  the  right, 
cross  the  Welland  Canal,  and  thence  to  the  depot  in  Montreal, 
having  made  a  circuit  of  four  miles  since  leaving  the  bridge. 
Here  your  trunks  are  examined  by  the  Custom  House  officers, 
and  you  then  proceed  to  your  hotel. 


MONTREAL.  165 

The  Canadians  are  not  a  fast  people,  and  if,  in  your  pursuit 
of  pleasure,  you  should  encounter,  occasionally,  a  vexatious 
delay,  you  will  do  well  to  remember  the  maxim  of  one  who  has 
lived  long  among  them,  and  has  the  happy  faculty  of  maintain- 
ing his  good  nature  under  all  circumstances:  "Keep  your 
patience — remember  you  are  in  Canada ! "  Forgetting  for  the 
time  the  prompt,  direct,  and  off-hand  way  of  doing  business 
in  the  States,  practice  this  maxim  and  your  happiness  will  be 
complete. 

In  your  perambulations  about  the  city,  should  you  find  it 
desirable  to  ask  some  simple  question  of  a  plain,  laboring  man, 
and  he  should  answer  in  your  mother  tongue  as  distinctly  as 
words  ever  fell  from  the  lips  of  man,  that  he  "  can't  speak  Eng- 
lish," do  not  threaten  to  flog  him  for  lying.  This,  beyond  the 
gibberish  imbibed  with  his  mother's  milk,  is  all  he  has  had 
ambition  to  master. 

Should  gold  be  above  par,  you  will  do  well  to  provide  your- 
self with  specie,  which  you  can  obtain  of  any  broker,  before 
leaving  the  hotel  to  visit  the  objects  of  interest  in  the  city.  It 
will  save  you  much  trouble  in  making  change  with  those  not 
acquainted  with  the  state  of  the  money  market.  The  Cana- 
dian's stand  point  in  financial  matters  seems  a  little  singular  to 
you  at  first,  although  you  may  not  be  able  to  controvert  it.  He 
will  tell  you,  perhaps,  that  greenbacks  have  gone  down,  while 
you  feel  that  he  is  mistaken.  With  you  greenbacks  are  all 
right,  but  the  mischief  is  in  gold — that  has  gone  up  I 

Montreal  has  a  population  of  110,000,  and  its  age  dates  back 
more  than  three  hundred  years,  to  1542,  when  a  European  set- 
tlement was  begun  here.  Jacques  Cartier,  however,  looked  upon 
the  spot  with  delight  in  1535,  when  an  Indian  village  existed 
under  the  name  of  Hochelaga.  He  gave  it  the  name  of  Mont 
Royal,  and  a  century  after  its  first  settlement  it  was  christened 
Villie-Marie.  In  1760  the  British  took  possession  of  it,  and 
it  has  since  continued  to  increase  in  importance,  until  it  is  now 


166  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY   GUIDE. 

the  metropolis  of  British  North  America.  The  city  is  situated 
on  Montreal  Island,  which  is  thirty  miles  Icng  by  ten  in  the 
extreme  breadth.  This  island  is  formed  by  a  branch  of  the 
Ottawa  on  the  north  and  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  south. 
North-west  of  the  city  is  a  mountain  of  considerable  hight, 
from  which  there  is  an  extensive  prospect.  The  view  from  it 
is  exceedingly  picturesque.  The  roofs  and  domes  of  the  build- 
ings in  the  city  are  covered  with  tin,  which,  glittering  in  the 
sun-light,  present  a  peculiar  contrast  with  the  grey  hmestone 
walls  and  towers. 

The  many  elegant  buildings  of  cut  limestone  give  Montreal 
that  substantial  and  permanent  appearance  which  no  city  in  the 
Stat'es  possesses.  The  streets,  however,  are  generally  narrow, 
and  less  attractive  than  they  would  have  been  had  they  been 
made  wider  when  laid  out,  and  in  this  respect  they  do  not  bear 
comparison  with  the  streets  of  other  important  American  cities. 

The  city  has  a  frontage  on  the  St.  Lawrence  of  about  three 
miles,  and  no  where  are  there  such  splendid  wharves  as  are 
found  here.  They  are  made  of  cut  limestone,  and  show  a 
greater  extent  of  masonry  than  can  be  found  elsewhere  upon 
this  continent. 

THE    VICTORIA   BRIDGE. 

One  of  the  principal  objects  of  interest  to  strangers  visiting 
Montreal  is  the  Victoria  Bridge,  which  spans  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  is  used  only  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  giving  Mon- 
treal an  unbroken  railway  communication  of  1,100  miles  in 
one  road,  from  Portland  to  Detroit.  The  bridge  which  is  built 
of  iron  on  the  tubular  principle,  is  9,194  feet  in  length — nearly 
two  miles,  and  cost  $6,300,000.  There  are  two  long  abut- 
ments and  24  piers  of  solid  stone  masonry.  The  water  in  pass- 
ing under  the  bridge,  runs  at  the  rate  of  seven  to  ten  miles  an 
hour,  and  it  is  calculated  that  each  pier  will  stand  a  pressure  of 
seventy  thousand  tons  of  ice,  which  at  the  opening  of  the  river 
comes   sweeping    down   the   current    with    great    force.       The 


OTHER   OBJECTS    OF    INTEREST.  ^        167 

blocks  of  stone  in  the  piers  are  bound  together  with  cement  and 
iron  rivets,  and  the  face  towards  the  current  is  beveled  off  to  a 
sharp  pointed  edge  so  as  to  present  as  little  resistance  as  is 
possible.  The  bridge  rises  from  the  shores  to  the  center,  at 
the  rate  of  one  foot  in  every  112,  or  nearly  48  feet  to  the  mile. 
The  object  of  this  is  to  give  sufficient  hight  in  the  center  so  that 
steamers  and  vessels  can  pass  under  the  bridge  without  difficulty. 
The  distance  from  the  water,  in  summer,  to  the  bridge  is  60 
feet.  The  engineers  of  this  noble  structure  were  Robert  Ste- 
phenson and  A.  M.  Ross.  Trains  cross  it  in  about  six  minutes. 
The  tourist  can  visit  the  interior  of  the  bridge  by  applying  at 
the  office  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  a  pass,  near  their 
shops,  a  short  distance  west  of  the  bridge. 

The  tourist  will  notice,  in  visitino;  or  crossing;  Victoria  Brid^-e, 
north  of  the  railroad,  on  the  Montreal  side  of  the  river,  at  Point 
St.  Charles,  near  the  abutment,  a  massive  stone  resting  on  a 
huge  rock,  the  whole  about  eighteen  feet  high,  and  enclosed  with 
a  white  railing.  This  was  erected  by  the  workmen  of  the 
bridge  to  commemorate  the  spot  where  6,500  Irish  emigrants 
were  buried  in  1847,  who  died  of  ship"  fever. 

OTHER    OBJECTS    OF    INTEREST. 

The  public  buildings  of  Montreal,  built  of  cut  limestone, 
have  no  equals  in  this  country,  and  are  worthy  a  visit.  The 
Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  is  said  to  be  the  laro^est  building  in 
this  country.  It  is  255  feet  long,  135  w^ide,  and  its  two  towers 
each  220  i^^i  high.  In  the  north-west  tower  is  a  bell  which 
weighs  29,400  pounds,  and  is  named  "  Gros  Bourdon,"  from  its 
deep  bass  tone.  In  the  other  tower  is  a  chime  of  bells.  The 
view  from  these  towers,  one  of  which  is  always  open  to  the  pub- 
lic, is  magnificent ;  the  city  and  country  many  miles  around  can 
be  seen.  Ten  thousand  people  can  be  seated  in  this  cathedral — 
8,000  on  the  first  floor  and  2,000  in  the  galleries.  Its  cost  was 
£100,000. 

The  Court  House,  on  Notre  Dame   Street,  opposite  Nelson's 


168  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

monument,  is  of  cut  limestone,  in  the  Grecian  Ionic  style,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  elegant  buildings  in  the  city. 

The  Bank  of  Montreal,  at  Place  d' Armies,  of  the  Corinthian 
style  of  architecture,  built  of  cut  stone,  is  an  elegant  building. 
Among  the  other  bank  buildings  worthy  of  note  may  be  men- 
tioned Molson's  Bank,  corner  of  Great  St.  James  Street ;  City 
Bank,  near  Bank  of  Montreal ;  Bank  of  British  North  Amer- 
ica, aud  Ontario  Bank. 

The  Post  Office,  on  Great  St.  James  Street,  is  of  beautiful 
cut  stone,  and  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  that  locality. 

The  Bonsecours  Market,  on  St.  Paul  and  Water  Streets,  is 
a  magnificent  edifice  in  the  Grecian  and  Doric  style.  It  cost 
about  $300,000,  and  has  a  front  of  three  stories  on  Water 
Street  and  two  stories  on  St.  Paul.  The  city  occupy  the  upper 
part  of  the  building  for  offices.  In  the  east  wing  is  Concert 
Hall,  capable  of  seating  4,000  persons. 

Mount  Royal  Cemetery,  two  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  east 
side  of  the  mountain,  and  the  water  works  which  tap  the 
St.  Lawrence  at  the  Lachine  Rapids,  west  of  Montreal,  are 
objects  of  interest,  and  no  one  sliould  fail  to  visit  them. 

The  various  churches  and  convents  will  claim  the  attention 
of  the  tourist,  and  he  will  find  them  worth  visiting. 

"  Shooting  the  Rapids,"  to  those  fond  of  daring  adventure, 
would  round  off  a  visit  to  Montreal,  and  pleasantly  iacrease 
one's  recollections  of  his  summer's  tour.  Take  the  early 
morning  train  from  Montreal  to  Lachine,  a  few  miles  west  of 
the  city  and  there  wait  the  coming  of  the  steamer.  About 
eight  o'clock  you  go  on  board,  and  at  Caughnawaga  she  will  lie 
to  for  a  few  minutes  for  the  Indian  pilot.  The  steamer 
will  then  start  to  make  the  run  down  the  Lachine  Rapids.  As 
soon  as  they  are  reached  steam  is  shut  off,  and  you  are  carried 
down  by  the  force  of  the  current  alone.  Presently  you  are 
running  at  lightning  speed  through  the  breakers,  over  the 
whirling,  bubbling  waters.     The  waves  are  lashed  into  spray, 


THE    HOTELS.  169 

and  the  scene  becomes  one  of  wild  and  fearful  grandeur.  The 
faithful  Indian  is  still  at  his  post,  and  the  steamer  is  taken  safely 
through  the  danger.  At  times  you  pass  within  a  short  distance 
of  huge  rocks,  and  to  touch  one  would  crush  the  steamer  into 
an  utter  wreck.  After  passing  the  rapids  the  steamer  proceeds 
to  Montreal,  going  under  Victoria  Bridge  before  arriving  at  the 
wharf. 

Before  leaving  Montreal  the  tourist  should  visit  Notman*3 
photographic  rooms,  on  Bleuiy  Street.  Here  you  will  find 
some  rare  specimens  of  the  photographic  art.  Mr.  Notman 
is  one  of  the  best  photographers  in  the  world,  and  was  awarded 
a  gold  medal  at  the  International  Exhibition  in  London  in  1862, 
over  all  other  European  and  American  competitors.  His  views 
of  objects  of  interest  in  Montreal  and  Canadian  scenery  are 
exceedingly  beautiful. 

THE    HOTELS. 

Montreal  is  well  supplied  with  first-class  hotels.  Among 
them  may  be  mentioned  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  Donegana  Hotel, 
and  the  Ottawa  House.  The  Donegana  Hotel  is  situated  on 
Notre  Dame  Street,  the  Broadway  of  the  city,  and  is  elegantly 
furnished.  The  rooms  are  large  and  airy,  and  from  them  are 
good  views  of  the  city.  The  landlord,  Daniel  Gale,  is  an  Amer- 
ican, and  will  direct  strangers  to  places  of  interest  about  the 
city.  The  cars  of  the  street  railway  pass  the  hotel  every  ten 
minutes. 

The  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  are  on  Great  St.  James  Street. 

OTTAWA,    CANADA    WEST. 

Ottawa,  the  seat  of  the  Canadian  government,  164  miles  by 

railroad  from  Montreal,  is   situated  on  Ottawa  River,  90  miles 

above  the  confluence  with  the  St.  Lawrence.     It  was  formerly 

called  Bytown,  from  its  founder,  Col.  John  By,  who  assisted  in 

constructing  Rideau  Canal  between  Kingston,  on  Lake  Ontario, 

and  the  Ottawa  River.     This  work  was  commenced  in  1826, 
8 


170  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

and  opened  for  navigation  in  1832,  at  a  cost  to  Great  Britain  of 
£808,774  sterling.  The  city  of  Ottawa  is  well  laid  out,  and 
the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  not  surpassed  by  any  in  America. 
In  addition  to  railroad  facilities  for  travel  a  line  of  steamers  run 
up  and  down  the  lake  during  the  summer  months. 

HOTELS. 

The  Russell  House,  James  A.  Gouin,  proprietor,  is  situated 
in  Center  Town,  near  the  Parliament  Buildings,  Post  Office, 
Custom  House,  etc.  Within  five  minutes'  walk  from  this  hotel 
is  the  Suspension  Bridge,  where  views  may  be  obtained  of  the 
celebrated  Chaudiere  Falls,  second  only  to  those  of  Niagara  in 
imposing  grandeur.  This  hotel  is  large  and  commodeous,  and 
the  tourist  will  find  it  a  pleasant  stopping  place. 


TO  WHITE  MOUNTAINS,  LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG, 

AND  QUEBEC. 

At  White  River  Junction  the  tourist,  going  to  the  White 
Mountains,  Lake  Mempremagog,  or  Quebec,  continues  up  the 
the  Connecticut  River,  crossing  White  River  at  its  mouth.  The 
scenery  along  the  river  is  rich  and  beautiful. 

NORWICH   AND    HANOVER. 

Five  miles  from  the  junction  you  come  to  Norwich  and  Han- 
over, the  former  in  Yennont  and  the  latter  in  New  Hampshire. 
The  villages  are  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  station. 

The  bridge  at  this  place  is  the  only  free  bridge  across  the 
Ck)nnecticut. 

DARTMOUTH    COLLEGE. 

In  the  beautiful  village  of  Hanover,  N.  H.,  a  short  distance 
from  the  depot,  on  a  plain  considerably  elevated  above  the 
Connecticut,  is  Dartmouth  College.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest 
colleges  in  New  England,  only  Harvard,  Yale  and  Brown  pre- 
ceding it  chronologically.  Founded  in  1769,  it  is  nearing  its 
centennial.  The  only  college  in  New  Hampshire,  it  has  trained 
most  of  the  eminent  men  in  the  State,  and  from  its  high  repu- 
tation has  drawn  students  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  It  has 
been  well  said  that  it  is  on  the  intellectual  landscape  of  the 
State,  what  Mount  Washington  is  on  the  physical.  In  every 
section  of  the  land,  and  in  every  walk  of  life,  its  sons  have 
attained  distinction.  Thirteen  of  them  have  been  Governors  of 
six  different  States,  thirty-one  have  been  Judges  of  the  Supreme 
Court  in  various  States,  or  of  the  Federal  Courts  ;  four  have 


/ 


172  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

been  members  of  the  Cabinet  at  "Washington ;  and  five   have 
occupied  diplomatic  stations  abroad.     The  contributions  of  the 
college  to  the  cause  of  education  have  been  especially  large. 
Twenty-two  of  its  alumni  have  been  Presidents  of  twenty-one 
diflferent  colleges  ;  seventy-eight  have  been  College  Professors, 
twelve  of  them  in  various  Medical  chairs  ;  and  thirteen  have 
been  Professors  of  twelve  different  Theological  Seminaries.     It 
has  educated  more  than  800  men  for  the  pulpit.     On  the  roll  of 
its  alumni,  among  other  honored  names,  we  note  those  of  Daniel 
Webster,  Rufus   Choate,  George  P.  Marsh,   and   Salmon   P. 
Chase.     In  addition  to  the  Classical,  it  has  a  Scientific  and  a 
Medical  Department.     It  has,  besides  the  President,  Rev.  Asa 
D.  Smith,  D.  D.,  L.  L.  D.,  twenty  Professors,  and,  for  the 
present  year,  273  students.     The  war  drew  heavily  upon   the 
classes — a  large  number  of  the  students  serving  in  every  capac- 
ty,  from  that  of  a  private  to  that  of  a  Major-General.     The 
young  men  are  now  returning,  however,  and  the  present  Fresh- 
men Class  is  the  largest  that  has  entered  since  1860.     There 
are  four  halls  for  the  Classical  department,  a  Scientific  building, 
a  Medical  college,  and  an  observatory.     The  latter  commands  a 
delightful  view  down   the  valley  of  the   Connecticut,  the  vista 
ending  with  Mount  Ascutney.     A  fine  gymnasium  building  is 
in  process  of  erection,  to  cost  about  $24,000,  the  gift  of  George 
H.  Bissell,  Esq.,  of  the  city  of  New  York,  a  graduate  of  the 
college ;  and  measures  are  in  progress  for  the  erection  of  an 
imposing  Alumni  Hall.     The  tourist  would  greatly  enjoy  a  few 
days  in  Hanover  and  vicinity.     The  rides,  in  every  direction, 
are  pleasant,  and  during  the   summer   season  there  is  a  great 
influx  of  agreeable  company  from  the  cities. 

Among  the  students  there  have  always  been  some  dependent, 
mainly,  for  the  means  of  prosecuting  their  studies  on  their  own 
exertions.  Such  men  have  usually  spent  a  portion  of  the  win- 
ter in  school-teaching.  In  "Whittier's  last  beautiful  poem, — 
"  Snow-Bound,"  there  is  a  picture  of  the  Dartmouth  School- 
master, which  will  awaken  pleasant  memories  in  many  minds  : 


DARTMOUTH    COLLEGE.  173 

"  Brisk  wielder  of  the  birch  and  nile, 
The  master  of  the  district  school, 
Held  at  the  fire,  his  favored  place. 
Its  warm  glow  ht  a  laughing  face, 
Frcsh-hued  and  fair,  where  scarce  appeared 
The  uncertain  prophecy  of  beard. 
He  played  the  old  and  simple  games 
Our  modern  boyhood  scarcely  names. 
Sang  songs,  and  told  us  what  befalls 
In  classic  Dartmouth's  college  halls. 
Born  the  wild  northern  hills  among, 
From  whence  his  yeoman  father  wrung 
By  patient  toil,  subsistence  scant, 
Not  competence,  and  yet  not  want, 
He  early  gained  the  power  to  pay 
His  cheerful,  self-reliant  way ; 
Could  doff  at  ease  his  scholar's  gown 
To  peddle  wares  from  town  to  town ; 
Or,  through  the  long  vacations  reach, 
In  lonely  lowland  districts  teach, 
Where  all  the  droll  experience  found 
At  stranger  hearths  in  boarding  roimd ; 
The  moonlit  skater's  keen  delight. 
The  sleigh-drive  through  the  frosty  night, 
The  rustic  party,  with  its  rough 
Accompaniment  of  blind  man's  buff, 
And  whirling  plate,  and  forfeits  paid, 
His  winter  task  a  pastime  made. 
Happy  the  snow-locked  homes,  wherein 
He  tuned  his  merry  violin, 
Or  played  the  athlete  in  the  barn, 
Or  held  the  good  dame's  winding  yam, 
Or  mirth  provoking  versions  told 
Of  classic  legends,  rare  and  old. 
Wherein  the  scenes  of  Greece  and  Rome 
Had  all  the  commonplace  of  home, 
And  little  seemed  at  best  the  odds 
'T-vNixt  Yankee  peddlers  and  old  gods  • 
Where  Pindus-born  Araxes  took. 
The  guise  of  any  grist-mill  brook, 


174  THE  CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE 

i 

And  dread  Olpmpns,  at  his  will, 
Became  a  huckleberry  hill. 

A  careless  boy  that  night  he  seemed ; 

Put  at  his  desk  he  had  tlie  look 
And  air  of  one  who  wisely  schemed. 

And  hostage  from  the  future  took 

In  trained  thought  and  love  of  book. 

Large-brained,  clear-eyed, — of  such  as  he 

Shall  Freedom's  young  apostles  be, 

Who,  following  in  War's  bloody  trail, 

Shall  every  lingering  wrong  assail ; 

All  chains  from  limb  and  spirit  strike, 

Uplift  the  black  and  white  alike ; 

Scatter  before  their  swift  advance 

The  darkness  and  the  ignorance, 

The  pride,  the  lust,  the  squalid  sloth, 

Which  nurtured  Treason's  monstrous  growth, 

Made  murder  pastime,  and  the  hell 

Of  prison  torture  possible. 

The  cruel  lie  of  caste  refate, 

Old  forms  remould,  and  substitute 

For  Slavery's  lash  the  Freeman's  will. 

For  blind  routine,  wise-handed  skill ; 

A  school  house  plant  on  every  hill, 

Stretching  in  radiate  nerve  lines  thence 

The  quick  wires  of  intelligence. 

Till  North  and  South  together  brought, 

Shall  own  the  same  electric  thought, 

In  peace  a  common  flag  salute, 

And,  side  by  side,  in  labor's  free 

And  unresentful  rivalry, 

Harvest  the  fields  wherein  they  fought." 

THE    DARTMOUTH    STUDENT    AND    THE    CHELSEA    CLERK. 

Several  years  since  one  of  those  students  at  Dartmouth,  who, 

as  Whittier  says  in  the  above  lines, 

"  Could  dofi"  at  ease  his  scholar's  gown 
To  peddle  wares  from  town  to  town," 

entered  the  village  store  at  Chelsea,  Vt.,  in  search  of  a  customer 


NORWICH    UNIVERSITY.  175 

for  some  of  the  books  that  he  was  selling.  Inquiring  of  the 
clerk,  one  of  those  over-smart,  self  sufficient  young  men  some- 
times met  with,  who  resembled  an  Indian  in  complexion,  if  he 
would  like  to  purchase,  the  following  colloquy  took  place,  in  the 
presence  of  the  usual  number  of  country  store  loungers: 
Clerk — ^'-  Well,  yes,  I  should  like  to  trade  with  you  if  you  have 
a  particular  work  that  I  am  desirous  of  obtaining.'*  Student — 
"  I  do  not  know  that  I  have  it,  but  I  presume  I  can  get  it  for 
you — what  is  it?"  Clerk — "It  is  Davis'  treatise  on  the 
Androscoggin  River.'*  Student — "  I  am  sorry  to  say,  sir,  that 
I  haven't  it ;  but  I  have  here  a  work  which  I  think  is  of  some 
importance  to  you.  It  is  an  elaborate  treatise  on  the  North 
American  Indians,  and  I  am  authorized  by  the  publishers  to  sell 
it  to  any  I'Cimiant  of  the  several  tribes  at  half  price  /  '* 

NORWICH     UNIVERSITY. 

This  institution  is  located  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from 
the  Norwich  and  Hanover  depot,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Dartmouth  College.  It  was  established  in  1820  by  Capt. 
Alden  Partridge,  under  the  name  of  the  American  Literary, 
Scientific  and  Military  Academy,  and  continued  in  a  flourishing 
condition  until  Capt.  Partridge  removed  the  school  to  Middle- 
town,  Conn.  The  Middletown  school  at  length  was  discontin- 
ued, and  the  principal  returned  to  Norwich.  In  1834  a  charter 
was  obtained  for  the  Norwich  University,  and  among  those  who 
have  graduated  at  this  institution,  are,  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Sey- 
mour, Ex-Governor  of  Connecticut ;  Rev.  Theophilus  Fisk  ;  the 
late  Hon.  Henry  W.  Cushman  ;  Hon.  Mr.  Morse,  of  Louisiana, 
formerly  member  of  Congress ;  Hon.  Horatio  Seymour,  Ex- 
Governor  of  New  York ;  Hon.  William  L.  Lee,  late  Chief 
Justice  of  the  Sandwich  Islands ;  Hon.  Caleb  Lyons,  L.  L.  D., 
Governor  of  Idaho  ;  Rev.  C.  H.  Fary  ;  Rev.  D.  S.  C.  M.  Pot- 
ter ;  Rev.  Josiah  Swett,  D.  D.,  Professor  in  the  Episcopal 
Theological   Institute,  at    Burlington ;    Robert   Frazer,   Esq. ; 


170  THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

Professor  Alonzo  Jackman,  L.  L.  D. ;  Gen.  Robert  Millrov ; 
Gen.  T.  G.  Ransom ;  Gen.  Dodge ;  Col.  Clark,  of  New  Hamp- 
shire ;  Col.  Jesse  A.  Gove ;  Col.  F.  Farrar ;  Col.  Thomas  H. 
Whipple ;  Col.  Simon  Preston ;  Col.  Burton ;  Col.  G.  A. 
Brearex ;  and  Col.  T.  B.  Ransom,  who  fell  at  Chepultepec, 
Mexico,  and  who  succeeded  Capt.  Partridge  as  President  of 
Norwich  University,  after  Capt.  Partridge's  resignation.  Capt. 
Partridge,  who  was  a  native  of  Norwich,  died  and  was  buried 
in  the  town. 

The  main  building  was  burned  in  1866,  but  efforts  are  being 
made  to  rebuild  it,  and  endow  the  institution  on  a  more  liberal 
scale.  Norwich  is  a  beautiful  place,  surrounded  with  high  hills 
and  romantic  scenery.  Among  those  who  have  hved  in  the 
town  was  Hon.  Paul  Brigham,  for  twenty-four  years  Lieut. 
Governor  of  Vermont. 

POMPANOOSUC. 

Following  close  upon  the  bank  of  the  Connecticut  you  come 
to  Pompanoosuc  station.  This  was  formerly  called  Ompompa- 
noosuc,  an  Indian  name  given  to  the  little  stream  that  you  cross 
before  reaching  the  station,  and  signifying  a  river  where  onions 
are  found.  From  this  station  is  shipped  large  quantities  of 
copperas  ore,  taken  from  a  mine  several  miles  west  in  the  town 
of  Strafford.  It  is  sent  to  Philadelphia  and  England,  and  from 
it  is  made  sulphuric  acid. 

A  few  miles  north  of  the  station  the  first  view  of  the  summit 
of  Moose  Hillock  is  had,  opposite  Newbury,  in  New  Hampshire. 
Eastward  will  be  seen  the  rounded  form  of  Bald  Mountain. 

THETFORD    AND    LYME. 

This  station,  fifteen  miles  from  White  River  Junction,  accom- 
modates the  residents  of  the  two  towns — Thetford  lying  on  the 
w^est  side  of  the  river,  and  Lyme  on  the  east  side,  in  New 
Hampshire.  The  village  of  Thetford  is  about  a  mile  west  of 
the  station. 


NOETH  THETFORD.  177 


NORTH  THETFORD. 

The  scenery  along  the  Connecticut  continues  pictures(![ue  and 
beautiful.  From  this  station  is  shipped  copper  ore  from  Ver- 
shire.  The  Corinth  Copper  Company,  now  working  mines  at 
Vershire  and  Corinth,  are  getting  out  250  tons  of  ore  per 
month.  It  is  shipped  to  Portsmouth  and  thence  to  Baltimore 
by  water,  where  it  is  smelted.  A  considerable  quantity  of  the 
ore  is  loaded  upon  the  cars  at  Bradford.  - 

FAIRLEE    AND    ORFORD. 

Approaching  the  station  the  village  of  Orford  will  be  seen  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  New  Hampshire.  Here  is 
located  a  female  seminary,  seen  a  short  distance  east  of  the 
river.  Passing  the  station  a  ledge  of  rocks,  rising  to  the  hight 
of  two  or  three  hundred  feet,  will  be  noticed  on  the  left,  resem- 
bling a  massive  wall.  Still  further  north,  about  five  miles  from 
the  station,  is  another,  equally  as  interesting.  To  the  right  is  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  valley. 

BRADFORD. 

This  is  the  second  most  important  town  on  the  route  from 
White  River  Junction  to  Newport.  St.  Johnsbury  alone 
exceeding  it  in  point  of  business.  There  is  considerable  man- 
ufacturing done  here — Waite's  River,  which  is  crossed  before 
reaching  the  station,  furnishing  the  water  power.  Three  thou- 
sand fish  kits  are  manufactured  weekly  by  a  single  firm,  and  are 
sent  to  Boston.  Passengers  for  Topsham,  Corinth,  Orange, 
Washington  and  Piermont  stop  at  this  station. 

In  the  north-west  part  of  the  town,  in  Wright's  Mountain,  is 
a  cave  with  several  apartments,  called  DeviFs  Den.  It  is 
thought  to  have  once  been  the  abode  of  human  beings. 

In  this  town,  in  1812,  was  manufactured,  by  James  Wilson, 

the  first  artificial  globe  made  in  the  United  States. 
8* 


178                      THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 
HAVERHILL MOOSE    HILLOCK. 

After  leaving  Bradford  you  come  in  sight  of  Haverhill,  N. 
H.,  situated  upon  a  hill  overlooking  the  valley.  Formerly  this 
was  the  headquarters  of  the  stage  lines  extending  through 
Northern  New  Hampshire,  and  in  those  days  was  a  place  of 
considerable  note.  As  you  proceed  north  from  Haverhill  the 
valley  is  wide  in  extent,  and  the  meadows  broad  and  fertile. 

In  New  Hampshire,  east  of  Haverhill,  you  will  notice  Moose 
Hillock,  rising  to  the  hight  of  4,636  feet,  the  summit  of  which 
is  the  first  point  seen  from  this  region  to  indicate  the  approach 
of  winter.  Sugar  Loaf  and  Black  Mountain  are  nearer  to  you, 
further  up  the  river. 

NEWBURY. 

Distance  from  New  York,  295  miles;  from  White  Mountains,  25 ;  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog,  70;  Montreal,  184;  Quebec,  235. 

Before  arriving  at  Newbury  you  will  notice  the  village  on 
the  left,  standing  on  a  terrace  nearly  a  hundred  feet  above 
the  meadows.  The  railroad  passes  through  a  tunnel,  made  in 
the  narrow  teiTace,  extending  eastward  from  the  village.  New- 
bury is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  on  the  upper  Connecticut,  and 
few  places  present  greater  attractions  for  a  quiet  summer  resi- 
dence. The  village,  which  lies  upon  high  table  land,  overlook- 
ing the  broad  meadows,  contains  several  stores,  two  hotels,  and 
the  Weslyan  Academy,  a  Methodist  institution.  Here  are  the 
celebrated  Newbury  Sulphur  Springs,  long  known  to  invalids 
in  New  England.  They  are  in  the  valley,  east  of  the  depot, 
where  a  bath  house  has  been  fitted  up.  An  analysis  of  the 
water  has  been  made,  and  it  is  highly  recommended  by  able 
physicians. 

The  scenery  in  and  around  Newbury  combines  the  grand  and 
the  beautiful.  Here  you  have  broad  meadows,  lofty  mountain 
peaks,  and  a  majestic  river,  and  the  view  from  the  adjacent 
mountains  resembles  that  from  Mount  Holyoke,  in  Massachu- 


NEAVBUKY.  179 

setts,  more   than   any  other  pomt  in  the  Connecticut  Yalley. 

Directly  in  rear  of  Newbury  is  Mount  Pulaski,  an  elevation 
easy  of  access,  and  from  it  can  be  seen  a  wide  extent  of  coun- 
try. The  tourist  should  ascend  its  summit,  and  look  upon  the 
almost  matchless  scenery  spread  before  him.  To  the  right  is 
the  valley  of  Haverhill,  with  its  long  street,  and  directly  east  is 
Moose  Hillock.  To  the  left  of  it  are  Sugar  Loaf  and  Black 
Mountains.  Further  beyond,  in  the  north-east,  are  the  Franco- 
nia  Mountains,  and  in  a  pleasant  day  Franconia  Notch  can  be 
seen,  through  which  tourists  pass  to  the  White  Mountains.  The 
Profile  House  is  only  about  25  miles  from  Newbury. 

Below,  and  almost  underneath  you,  is  the  village  of  Newbury, 
the  green  fields  resembling  a  beautiful  carpet.  Above  the  town 
is  the  Great  Ox-Bow,  and  the  magnificent  meadows  lying  along 
the  river. 

Among  the  distinguished  residents  of  Newbury  in  earlier  days 
were  Gen.  Jacob  Bayley  and  Col.  Thomas  Johnson,  both  of 
whom  took  active  part  in  the  French  and  Revolutionary  wars. 
Col.  Johnson  was  in  the  British  service  at  Crown  Point,  where, 
for  w^ant  of  provisions,  horse-beef  was  dealt  out  to  the  men.  At 
the  opening  of  the  Revolution  he  entered  the  army  and  was 
finally  taken  prisoner  and  sent  to  Canada.  He  was  parolled 
and  permitted  to  return  home  on  condition  that  he  would  not 
again  take  up  arms,  and  would  return  when  called  upon. 

Gen.  Bayley  was  an  important  man  to  the  inhabitants  of  this 
region,  and  the  British  determined  upon  his  capture.  June  17, 
1782,  Capt.  Pritchard  and  a  force  of  British  troops  came  to 
Newbury  to  take  him  prisoner.  Reaching  the  hights  west 
of  the  Ox  Bow,  they  signaled  Col.  Johnson,  and  he  went 
to  them.  He  learned  the  object  of  the  expedition,  and  on 
giving  them  some  trifling  information  returned  home.  Gen. 
Bayley  and  two  sons  were  in  the  meadows  plowing,  near  the  Ox 
Bow.  Johnson  wrote  a  message  and  directed  his  wife's  brother 
to  leave  it  in  the  field  where  the  General  would  find  it.  Dud- 
ley Carlton,  the  bearer  of  the  message,  dropped  it  in  the  furrow, 


180  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

and  on  coming  to  it  Gen.  Bayley  took  it  up  and  read,  "  The 
Philistines  be  upon  thee,  Samson."  That  was  enough  for  him. 
He  turned  out  his  team  and  escaped.  That  night  an  attack  was 
made  on  his  house,  but  he  was  not  there  to  be  captured  as  his 
enemies  had  expected. 

There  is  now  a  house  standing  in  the  Johnson  village,  south 
of  the  Ox  Bow  and  east  of  the  railroad,  that  was  built  in  1775 
by  Col.  Johnson.  The  frame  was  raised  on  the  day  that  news 
reached  Newbury  of  the  battle  of  Lexington.  Three  of  the 
men  who  were  at  the  "  raising  "  enlisted  and  were  at  the  battle 
of  Bunker  Hill.  One  of  the  number,  Peter  Johnson,  a  brother 
of  the  Colonel's,  was  wounded  in  the  arm. 

THANKSGIVING   POSTPONED    FOR   WANT    OF    MOLASSES. 

As  ludicrous  as  it  may  seem  at  the  present  time,  in  the  early 
settlement  of  the  town  Thanksgiving  Day  was  actually  post- 
poned two  weeks  in  Newbury,  for  want  of  molasses.     Commu- 
nication with  the  larger  towns  was  then  difficult.     Thanksgiving 
was   appointed  by  the    Colonial   authorities   having  jurisdic- 
tion over  this  region,  and  as  it  happened  the  proclamation  did 
not  reach  Newbury  until  after  the  appointed  day  had  passed. 
The  minister,  on  the  following  Sabbath,  read  the  proclamation 
and  said  that,  inasmuch  as  the  day  had  gone  by,  he  would  sug- 
gest that  the  following  Thursday  be  observed  by  the  people  of 
the  town  as  a  day  of  Thanksgiving  and  prayer.     A  worthy 
deacon,  who  enjoyed  the  good  things  of  life  as  well  as  things 
spiritual,  rose  and  said  that  as  there  was  no  molasses  in  town^ 
and  his  boys  had  gone  to  Number  Four  (Charlestown,  N.  H.) 
to  get  some,  he  would  move  that  Thanksgiving  be  postponed 
one  week.     The  "  boys  "  not  returning,  the  day  was  again  post- 
poned, and,  finally,  the  good  people  of  Newbury  were  obliged 
to  go  without  their  molasses  altogether.     As  it  is  inferred  from 
this  that  there  was  no  "  sweetning "  in  the  place,  a  thoughtful 
housewife  wonders  what  they  did  for  pumpkin  pies. 


THE  GREAT  OX  BOW.  181 

THE  GREAT  OX  BOW. 

The  Great  Ox  Bow,  just  north  of  the  village  of  Newbury, 
is  an  object  of  interest  to  tourists.  In  its  southern  course  the 
Connecticut  bears  off  to  the  east  and  thence  back  to  the  west, 
making  a  circuit  of  four  and  a  half  miles,  while  across  the  neck 
it  is  only  a  hundred  rods. 

WELLS   RIVER. 

Leaving  Newbury  and  passing  the  Great  Ox  Bow  you  soon 
come  to  the  pleasant  village  of  Wells  River,  in  the  town  of 
Newbury,  40  miles  from  White  River  Junction.  Here  White 
Mountain  touri&ts  change  cars  for  Littleton,  it  being  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Boston  and  Montreal  and  White  Mountains  Railroads. 
It  is  20  miles  to  Littleton,  from  which  travelers  go  by  stage  11 
miles  to  the  Profile  House  and  22  to  the  Crawford  House.  The 
view  at  this  point  is  magnificent.  The  Franconia  range  skirts 
the  eastern  horizon.  Leaving  the  station  you  cross  Wells 
River,  a  small  stream  which  furnishes  power  for  the  mills  along 
its  banks. 

mcindoe's  falls. 
The  Connecticut  is  narrower  and  more  rapid  as  you  approach 
its  source.  Several  miles  below  Mcindoe's  you  pass  Dodge's 
Falls,  where  the  river  makes  a  considerable  descent.  At 
Mcindoe's  the  falls  are  still  higher,  and  furnish  excellent  water 
power.  The  two  saw  mills  at  this  place,  and  the  one  at  Dodge's 
Falls,  are  owned  by  Mr.  Stephen  Barker,  who  manufactures  two 
million  feet  of  lumber  annually.  The  logs  are  put  into  the 
Connecticut  many  miles  further  north,  and  are  floated  down  in 
rafts  in  high  water.  After  passing  the  station  you  will  notice  a 
cove  in  the  river,  formed  by  a  huge  rock  extending  from  the 
bank.  The  river  is  only  about  75  feet  wide,  and  so  rapid  that 
an  iron  bar  thrown  into  it  would  not  sink.     JSIr.  Barker  keeps 


182  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

his  logs  in  this  cove  until  they  are  wanted  at  the  mills.  The 
fall  in  the  Connecticut  from  Hartford  to  this  place  is  449  feet, 
and  from  here  to  Lake  Connecticut,  100  miles,  1,140  feet. 

BARNET. 

Passing  Mclndoe's  you  soon  come  to  Barnet.  The  village  is 
west  of  the  railroad,  mostly  upon  the  hill.  The  four  story  wool- 
en mill,  owned  by  the  Caledonia  Manufacturing  Company, 
occupies  a  conspicuous  position.  The  members  of  the  firm  are 
Ex-Governor  Buckingham,  Amos  King,  Edward  Chappell, 
Charles  King,  and  Edward  Carew,  all  of  Norwich,  Conn.  They 
contemplate  erecting  another  factory,  nearer  the  railroad. 
Heavy  fancy  woolen  goods  are  made  by  the  company.  This 
town  was  granted  to  two  sons  of  Phineas  Stevens,  who  so  gal- 
lantly defended  the  fort  at  Charlestown  against  the  French  and 
Indians.     It  was  settled  principally  by  Scotch. 

PASSUMPSIC    RIVER. 

Soon  after  leaving  Barnet  you  come  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Passumpsic  River,  which  empties  into  the  Connecticut.  The 
Indian  name  is  Bassoomsuc,  signifying  a  stream  where  there  is 
much  medicine.  It  is  so  tortuous  that  Dix  says  it  resembles  a 
gigantic  cork-screw,  liquified.  Indeed  it  is  so  crooked  that  it  is 
a  very  smart  bird  that  can  fly  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the 
other.  In  a  distance  of  25  miles  the  railroad  crosses  the  river 
twenty-three  times. 

ISLANDS    IN    THE     CONNECTICUT DIGGING    FOR    GOLD. 

In  the  Connecticut  River,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Pas- 
sumpsic, there  are  no  less  than  fifteen  islands.  The  most  prom- 
inent one  is  Gold  Island,  covered  with  spruce  and  cedar.  Many 
years  ago  some  persons,  who  had  been  led  to  believe  that  the 
Indians  had  buried  gold  there,  dug  the  island  over  in  search  of 
it,  but  their  efforts  were  not  rewarded  with  a  yield  of  the  pre- 
cious metal  excelling  a  California  placer.     Between  this  place 


mcleran's  and  passumpsic.  183 

and  Lunenburg,  Vt.,  are  the  famous  fifteen  miles  falls  in  the 
Connecticut. 

mcleran's  and  passumpsic. 

A  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Passsumpsic  you 
come  to  McLeran's.  Before  the  railroad  was  built  from  Wells 
River  to  Littleton,  this  was  the  starting  point  for  stages  to  the 
White  Mountains.  The  falls  in  the  Passumpsic  will  be  noticed 
on  the  right.  Four  miles  from  here  you  pass  Passumpsic 
station. 

ST.    JOHNSBURT. 

Distance  from  New  York,  311  miles;  White  Mountains,  44;  Lake  Memphre- 
magog,  44;  Montreal,  148;    Quebec,  211. 

Leaving  Passumpsic  you  soon  come  to  St.  Johnsbury,  the 
most  important  station  on  the  line.  Here  are  the  offices  of  the 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroads.  Main  Street, 
where  most  of  the  business  is  done,  is  upon  the  hill  west  of  the 
railroad.  This  is  the  shire  town  of  Caledonia  County,  and  the 
large  and  neat  Court  House,  built  of  brick,  will  be  noticed  upon 
the  eminence  west  of  the  depot.  The  view  from  Main  Street 
is  extensive  and  pleasing.  The  towering  hills,  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  vegetation,  the  distant  eastern  mountain  range,  and 
the  valley  of  the  Passumpsic,  form  a  beautiful  landscape.  The 
village  has  an  unusually  neat  and  thrifty  appearance,  and  the 
elegant  and  costly  school  houses,  which  have  been  erected  within 
the  last  few  years,  speak  well  for  the  industry  and  intelligence 
of  the  people.     There  are  about  4,000  inhabitants  in  the  town. 

THE    FAIRBANKS    SCALES GOVERNOR    FAIRBANKS. 

The  life  of  St.  Johnsbury  is  the  Fairbanks  Scale  Manufac- 
tory, where  are  employed  nearly  400  hands.  It  is  situated  on 
Sleeper's  River,  west  of  Main  Street.  With  a  small  beginning 
this  establishment  has  grown  to  mammoth  proportions,  and  at 
the  present  time  the  Fairbanks  Scales  are  used  almost  through- 
out the  civilized  world.      Indeed,  they  have  become  so  general 


184  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

that  it  is  much  easiex*  to  tell  where  they  are  not  used  than 
where  they  are.     They  are  the  invention  of  Mr.  Thaddeus 
Fairbanks,  the  only  surviving  member  of  the  original  firm  com- 
posed of  three  brothers,  Erastus,  Thaddeus    and   Joseph  P. 
Fairbanks.     Like  most  great  inventions,  this  had  its  origin  in 
almost  a  trifling  circumstance,  and  has  far  surpassed  even  the 
intention  and  expectation  of  the  inventor.     In  1829  there  was 
an  excitement  among  the  farmers  in  Vermont  and  New  York 
concerning  the  cultivation  of  hemp.      Erastus  and  Thaddeus 
Fairbanks  were  then  engaged  in  manufacturing  plows,  stoves, 
etc.,  and  a  company  in  Lamoille   County  applied  to  them  to 
build  a  hemp  dressing  machine.     After  completing  it  they  built 
one  for  themselves,  having  determined  to  carry  on  the  business 
of  hemp  dressing,  in  addition  to  that  which  they  were  already 
doing.     When  the  farmers  began  to  bring  in  their  hemp,  there 
was  at  once  a  want  of  some  arrangement  to  determine  its  weight 
while  upon  the  wagon,  so  as  to  save  time  and  labor.     The  active 
brain  of  Thaddeus  was  called  in  requisition,  and  he  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  perfecting  a  rude  contrivance  for  weighing  the  hemp, 
but  containing  essentially  the  principles  now  used  in  the  scales. 
At  that  time  transactions  by  weight  were  confined  essentially  to  the 
use  of  the  Even  Balance,  the  Dearborn  Beam,  and  the  Roman 
Steelyards.     Erastus,  who,  with  his  quick  discerning  eye,  saw 
its   importance,  advised  his  brother  to   obtain  a  patent.      Ap- 
plication  was   made,  and  a   patent  granted,  bearing  date  of 
the  year  1830.     At  this  time  it  was  not  intended  to  apply  the 
principle  to  scales  only  for  weighing  hemp,  hay  and  other  agri- 
cultural products ;  but  there  being  a  demand  for  them  in  other 
branches  of  business,  their  modifications  have  been  multiplied 
until  they  now  number  125 — from  the  neat  letter  balance  of  a 
fractional  ounce  to  the  ponderous  weighlock  scale  of  500  tons. 
This  was  the  origin  of  the  Fairbanks  Scale,  and,  although  the 
hemp  excitement  was  of  short  duration,  it  produced  one  of  the 
most  important  inventions  to  the  business   world  that  has  ever 
been  perfected.     A  patent  was  taken  out  by  them  in  England, 


fairbank's  scales.  185 

and  a  Liverpool  firm  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  the  scales, 
but  subsequent  improvements  and  great  accuracy  have  made 
those  of  American  manufacture  the  most  popular,  even  in 
England  and  throughout  all  Europe. 

Before  the  opening  of  the  railroad  to  St.  Johnsbury,  all  their 
freight  was  carried  by  teams  to  Portland  and  Burlington.  Since 
the  construction  of  the  road,  of  which  Governor  Erastus  Fair- 
banks was  one  of  the  principal  movers,  and  for  several  years 
its  President,  the  business  has  greatly  increased.  In  1865  their 
in-coming  and  out-going  freight  amounted  to  5,228  tons.  They 
use  about  twelve  tons  of  iron  daily  in  their  foundry,  and  in  a 
single  year  they  consume  about  a  million  feet  of  lumber  in  pack- 
ing boxes.  Their  freight  bills  amount  annually  to  about  $50,- 
000,  and  their  monthly  pay-roll  $15,000  to  $17,000.  Their 
business,  for  a  single  year,  amounts  to  a  million  of  dollars. 
The  members  of  the  firm  are  now  Thaddeus,  Horace  and  Frank- 
lin, the  two  latter  sons  of  Erastus.  Joseph  P.,  the  youngest 
brother,  died  in  1855,  and  Erastus  in  1864.  Charles  Fairbanks, 
another  son  of  the  Governor's,  who  was  for  a  time  a  member  of 
the  firm,  retired  from  it  several  years  ago,  on  account  of  ill 
health. 

Ex-Governor  Erastus  Fairbanks,  the  senior  partner,  was  a 
man  of  more  than  ordinary  ability,  although  his  advantages  for 
an  early  education  were  quite  limited.  He  was  born  at  Brim- 
field,  Mass.,  Oct.  28,  1792,  and  was  a  son  of  a  poor  farmer. 
His  father  being  unable  to  give  him  an  education,  he  attended 
only  the  district  school,  from  which  he  "graduated"  at  the  age 
of  17.  In  May,  1812,  he  left  the  parental  home  and  went  to 
St.  Johnsbury  to  reside  w^ith  Judge  Ephram  Paddock,  a  mater- 
nal uncle,  and  in  whose  office  it  was  his  intention  to  study  law. 
His  eyes  being  too  weak  to  admit  of  his  pursuing  a  course  of 
study,  he  abandoned  the  plan,  and  the  two  subsequent  winters 
taught  the  district  school  on  the  plain  in  St.  Johnsbury.  In 
the  summer  of  1813  he  was  clerk  in  a  store  at  Windsor.     In 


186         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

1814  he  opened  a  store  at  Wheelock,  two  towns  north  of  St. 
Johnsbury,  in  connection  with  Mr.  Frederick  Phelps,  of  St. 
Johnsbury,  who  furnished  the  goods — Mr.  Fairbanks'  only  cap- 
ital at  this  time  being  a  horse  and  wagon  which  his  father  had 
given  him,  and  which  he  subsequently  sold  to  a  hatter  for  $75, 
taking  his  pay  in  hats.  He  finally  purchased  the  goods  of  Mr. 
Phelps  for  $800,  giving  a  note  for  them,  to  be  paid  the  following 
winter  in  ashes.  In  1818  he  sold  his  store  in  Wheelock  and 
removed  to  East  St.  Johnsbury,  where  he  opened  another.  In 
the  autumn  of  that  year  he  went  to  Barnet,  where  he  remained 
in  the  mercantile  business  until  1824,  when  he  removed  to  St. 
Johnsbury  and  commenced  business  with  his  brothers,  who,  with 
their  parents,  had  removed  from  Brimfield  to  St.  Johnsbury  in 
1815.  They  commenced  the  manufacture  of  stoves  and  plows. 
It  was,  however,  with  great  difficulty  that  they  found  a  sale  for 
the  plows,  as  the  farmers  considered  cast  iron  as  too  brittle  a 
material  to  successfully  take  the  place  of  the  rude  ones  made  of 
wrought  iron  and  wood.  They  were  obliged  to  take  them  to 
the  farmers,  where  they  were  left  on  trial.  Finally  these  plows 
became  quite  popular  and  had  a  large  sale. 

Governor  Fairbanks  represented  St.  Johnsbury  in  the  Leg- 
islature in  1836-7-8.  In  1844  and  1848  he  was  chosen  Presi- 
dential elector  on  the  Clay  and  Taylor  tickets.  In  1852  he 
was  elected  Governor  of  Vermont,  and  in  1864  he  died,  lamented 
and  loved  by  all  who  knew  him. 

The  Messrs.  Fairbanks  have  done  much  to  beautify  and  adorn 
St.  Johnsbury,  and  their  residences  are  models  of  neatness  and 
good  taste. 

ST.    JOHNSBURY    CENTER. 

Three  miles  north  of  St.  Johnsbury  you  come  to  St.  Johns- 
bury Center.  The  Passumpsic  River  lies  between  the  village 
and  the  railroad.  Here  is  a  paper  mill  and  several  manufac- 
turing establishments.  Above  the  depot  is  a  pretty  fall  in  the 
river. 


LYNDON.  187 

LYNDON. 

At  Lyndon  there  is  considerable  business,  and  in  the  village 
is  a  large  flouring  mill.  West  of  the  depot  is  Minister  Hill, 
receivins:  its  name  from  the  fact  that  it  was  donated  to  the  first 
minister  of  the  town.  Before  reaching  the  village  you  pass, 
on  your  right,  another  of  those  charming  little  waterfalls  in  the 
Passumpsic.  The  southern  village  is  Lyndon  Comers,  and  that 
seen  further  south  is  Lyndon  Center. 

WEST    BURKE LAKE    WILLOUGHBY. 

Passing  Folsom's,  where  the  stage  route  from  Lyndon 
to  Island  Pond  crosses  the  railroad,  you  come  to  West  Burke, 
16  miles  from  St.  Johnsbury.  Before  reaching  the  station  you 
pass  Burke  Mountain  on  your  right,  2,000  feet  high,  and  from 
which  there  is  a  magnificent  view. 

Here  passengers  leave  the  railroad  for  Lake  Willoughby,  six 
miles  distant.  Mr.  David  Trull,  proprietor  of  the  West  Burke 
Hotel,  near  the  station,  will  furnish  the  tourist  conveyance  to 
that  place  on  the  arrival  of  the  trains.  Willoughby  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  lakes  in  this  country.  It  lies  between  two 
mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  from  its  shores  to  the  hight  of 
nearly  2,000  feet.  The  lake  is  from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles 
wide,  and  is  six  miles  long.  The  water  is  so  deep,  in  places, 
that  no  bottom  has  been  found.  Mr.  Alonzo  Berais  has  erected 
a  large  hotel  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  where  tourists  can 
get  good  accommodations.  It  is  a  wild  and  romantic  spot, 
and  to  the  lover  of  nature  it  presents  many  attractions.  Mr. 
Robert  Van  Arsdale,  of  Newark,  N.  J.,  has  built  a  summer 
residence  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  and  spends  the  summer 
months  here.  A  good  view  of  Willoughby  Mountain,  rising 
from  the  east  shore  of  the  lake,  is  had  before  you  reach  West 
Burke  Station.  For  a  fuller  description  of  Lake  Willoughby 
see  page  210. 


188  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

SOUTH    BARTON THE    SUMMIT JAY    PEAK. 

Leaving  West  Burke  you  soon  reach  the  summit  dividing  the 
valleys  of  the  Connecticut  and  St.  Lawrence.  You  will  notice 
the  little  rivulet  as  you  proceed  north,  running  southward,  and 
presently  you  come  to  another  running  north  into  Crystal  Lake, 
Barton  River,  Lake  Memphremagog,  St.  Francis  River,  and 
thence  into  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Jay  Peak,  4,018  feet  high,  and  one  of  the  most  lofty  summits 
of  the  Green  Mountain  range,  will  be  seen  in  the  north-west. 
A  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  from  the  base  to  the  sum- 
mit, and  it  can  be  easily  reached  from  Newport,  13  miles  distant. 
All  the  villages  near  its  base,  and  the  mountain  peaks  for  nearly 
a  hundred  miles  around  it,  can  be  seen. 

BARTON. 

Continuing  north  you  pass  along  upon  the  western  shore  of 
Crystal  Lake,  a  small  but  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  finally 
come  to  Barton,  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  where  there  is  excel- 
lent water  power.  The  lake  is  about  a  mile  wide  and  two  miles 
long.  Barton  was  named  in  honor  of  its  first  proprietor.  Gen. 
William  Barton,  who  will  be  remembered  as  the  intrepid  Lieut. 
Col.  Barton  of  Revolutionary  fame.  When  Lieutenant-Colonel 
of  Rhode  Island  militia,  he,  with  forty  soldiers  and  a  negro, 
surprised  and  captured  the  British  Maj.-Gen.  Proctor  while  in 
bed  at  his  headquarters  at  Newport,  R.  L  The  town  was 
granted  to  Gen.  Barton  Oct.  28,  1781,  under  the  name  of 
Providence,  as  a  reward  for  this  daring  exploit.  In  1789  its 
name  was  changed  to  Barton. 

RUNAWAY    POND. 

About  seven  miles  south-west  of  Barton  depot,  in  the  town 
of  Glover,  is  the  old  bed  of  Runaway  Pond,  through  which  the 
stage  road  from  Barton  to  Montpelier  now  passes.  It  was  for- 
merly known  as  Long  Pond,  and  was  the  source  of  the  La- 


BARTON    LANDING.  189 

moille  River,  which  flows  into  Lake  Champlain.  It  was  about  a 
mile  in  length,  three-lburths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  150  feet  deep, 
Avith  an  outlet  at  the  southern  end.  About  lOO  rods  north  of 
it  was  Mud  Pond,  the  outlet  of  which  flowed  into  Barton  River, 
and  thence  north  into  Lake  Memphremagog.  In  dry  seasons 
Barton  River  being  insufficient  to  supply  the  mills  along  its 
banks  with  water,  is  was  determined  to  change  the  outlet  of 
Long  Pond  by  digging  a  channel  from  it  to  Mud  Pond.  In 
June,  1810,  the  inhabitants  of  Glover  and  adjacent  towns 
assembled  in  great  numbers  for  that  purpose.  It  was  com- 
menced within  a  short  distance  of  Long  Pond  and  completed 
to  Mud  Pond.  The  small  barrier  at  the  head  of  the  Pond  was 
then  removed,  and  instead  of  following  the  channel  the  water 
descended  into  the  sand  beneath.  The  stream  continued  to  in- 
crease and  finally  the  whole  body  of  water  rushed  with  great 
force  towards  Mud  Pond,  carrying  every  thing  before  it.  Pass- 
ing through  Mud  Pond  and  into  the  Barton  River,  it  gathered 
force  as  it  went.  A  path  thirty  or  forty  rods  wide  and  from 
twenty  to  sixty  feet  deep  was  hollowed  out  by  the  water. 
Trees,  mills,  and  even  rocks  of  many  tons  weight  were  cai'ried 
away.  So  powerful  was  the  current  that  after  having  gone 
seventeen  miles,  a  rock  weighing  a  hundred  tons  was  moved 
several  rods.  It  kept  on  its  course  until  it  finally  passed  into 
Lake  Memphremagog.  No  lives  were  lost,  but  the  workmen 
barely  escaped.  It  seems  that  beneath  the  surface  at  the  head 
of  the  pond  was  a  bed  of  quick-sand  and  once  opened  there 
was  nothing  to  prevent  the  water  from  wearing  a  channel  deep 
enough  to  drain  the  whole  pond.  A  similar  occurrence  took 
place  in  Switzerland  in  1818. 

BARTON    LANDING. 

Here  are  several  stores  and  a  saw  mill.  The  village 
received  its  name  from  the  fact  that  smujjgled  sroods  were  brousjht 
up   the   river  from   Canada  and  landed   here.     A  daily  stage 


190         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE 

runs  from  this  place  to  Irasburg,  three  and  a  half  miles 
westward,  and  which  is  one  of  the  prettiest  villages  in  North- 
ern Vermont.  The  Irasburg  House,  kept  by  Rufus  B.  Rich- 
ai'dson,  will  accommodate  about  a  hundred  guests. 

COVENTRY. 

Leaving  Barton  Landing  you  soon  reach  Coveittry  Station. 
The  village  lies  several  miles  west  of  the  railroad.  Cwitinuing 
northward  you  come  to  a  bay  connected  with  Lake  Memphre- 
magog.  Passing  along  its  eastern  bank  you  cross  it  on  a  spile 
bridge,  and  in  a  few  minutes  are  landed  in  front  of  the  Mem- 
phremagog  House  in  Newport,  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake. 


lAKE   MEMPHREMAGOG. 


NEWPORT. 

Distance  from  New  York,  365  miles;  Springfield,  229;  "White  Mountains,  85; 

Montreal,  104;  Quebec,  167. 

Newport,  not  Newport  down  by  the  sea,  but  Newport,  Vt., 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  close  to  the  Canada 
line,  where  years  gone  by  smuggling  was  counted  among 
the  virtues — it  doesn't  pay  as  well  now — is  a  thriving,  pleasant 
country  village,  destined  to  be  a  place  of  considerable  impor- 
tance in  the  future.  The  scenery  around  it  is  grand  and 
inspiring,  and  the  breezes  from  the  lake  are  cool  and  refreshing. 

South  of  the  village,  rising  to  the  hight  of  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  is  Prospect  Hill,  overlooking  the  lake  and  the 
country  for  miles  around.  From  it  is  seen  Owl's  Head,  Mt. 
Elephantis,  Mt.  Orford,  Jay  Peak  and  Willoughby  Mountain. 
The  view  of  the  lake,  with  its  islands  and  bays  is  remarkably 
fine,  especially  at  sunset,  when  all  nature  is  tinged  with  a 
golden  hue. 

The  attractions  around  Newport  are  many.  The  tourist  of 
course  Avill  first  want  to  take  a  sail  down  the  lake  to  Mao:oo:,  30 
miles  distant,  with  Capt.  Fogg,  on  the  steamer  Mountain  Maid. 
It  leaves  at  7.30  a.  m.,  and  returns  about  6  p.  m.  At  Magog 
you  can  dine  at  the  Parks  House,  visit  !RIount  Orford,  five 
miles  from  the  village,  the  highest  mountain  in  Lower  Canada, 
and  return  the  next  day,  stopping,  if  you  choose,  at  the  Moun- 
tain House,  at  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  12  miles  from  Newport, 


192 


THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 


on  the  return  trip.  From  here  you  can  ascend  to  the  summit 
of  Owl's  Head,  which  is  nearly  3,000  feet  above  the  lake,  and 
from  which  you  can  get  a  magnificent  view — the  valley  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  Montreal  conspicuous  among  the  objects  seen. 
Thirteen  miles  west  of  Newport  is  Jay  Peak.  This  mountain 
is  4,018  feet  high,  and  from  it  can  be  seen  the  whole  range  of 
the  Green  Mountains,  including  Mount  Mansfield,  Camel's 
Hump,  and  Killington  Peak.  The  other  objects  of  interest  to 
be  seen  are  Ascutney  Mountain,  near  Windsor,  White  and 
Franconia  Mountains,  Kearsarge,  Moose  Hillock,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  the  Adirondacks  and  Montreal. 

About  25  miles  south  of  Newport,  and  six  from  West  Burke 
station,  is  Lake  Willoughby,  a  most  remarkable  and  charming 
place.  East,  about  ten  miles  distant,  is  Stanstead  Plain,  in 
Canada.  The  country  in  that  region  is  rich  and  fertile,  and  the 
drive  is  one  of  much  interest 


MEMPHREMAGOG   HOUSE. 

The  Memphremagog  House,  at  Newport,  is  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Memphremagog,  at  its  southern  end.     The  little  steamer, 


THE    LAKE.  193 

Mountain  Maid,  Capt.  G.  W.  Fogg,  commander,  will  be  seen 
lying  at  the  dock,  steam  up,  and  ready  fOr  a  trip  to  Magog,  at 
the  outlet  of  the  lake.  The  hotel  is  pleasantly  situated,  and 
from  its  balconies  there  is  a  splendid  view  of  the  lake  and  Owl's 
Head.  It  will  accommodate  300  guests.  The  landlord,  Mr. 
L.  Buck,  is  well  known  to  tourists. 

THE    LAKE.   • 

Over-shadowed  by  lofty  mountain  peaks  which  rise  to  the 
hight  of  nearly  3,000  feet,  and  bordered  by  dense  forests  and 
grassy  slopes,  in  Northern  Vermont  and  Lower  Canada,  is  Lake 
Memphremagog — the  Beautiful  Water.  In  general  appearance 
it  resembles  Lake  George,  in  Northern  New  York.  It  is  30 
miles  long  and  two  miles  wide,  and  lies  in  a  deep  and  narrow 
basin.  About  one  third  of  the  lake  is  in  Vermont  and  the 
remainder  is  in  Canada.  There  are  no  marshes  or  ponds  of 
stagnant  water  along  its  banks,  and  its  rock  bound  shores  and 
wooded  islands  give  it  a  picturesque  appearance. 

THE    LAKE    TROUT. 

Fed  by  mountain  streams,  pure  and  cold,  it  is  the  home  of 
the  prince  of  the  finny  tribe,  the  speckled  trout,  which  here 
attain  unusual  proportions.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  catch 
those  that  weigh  from  ten  to  fifteen  pounds,  while  old  fishermen, 
who  are  posted  on  favorite  localities,  will  occasionally  show  you 
one  weighing  from  30  to  40.  Ask  him  how  it  was  done,  and 
he  will  tell  you,  with  a  twinkle  in  his  eye,  that  he  "spit  on  his 
hook."  The  best  fishing  places  are  near  the  Mountain  House, 
at  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  where  the  water  is  the  coldest  and 
deepest.  IVIr.  Jennings  will  furnish  you  with  boats  should  you 
like  to  try  your  hand  at  it. 

These  trout  are  served,  fresh  from  the  lake,  at  the  Memphre- 
magog and  Mountain  Houses. 


194  THE   CONNECTlClJT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

DOWN   THE   LAKE. 

Refreshed  with  a  night's  sleep  in  this  cool  and  bracing  moun- 
tain region,  the  tourist  will  prepare  for  a  trip  on  the  steamer 
Mountain  Maid,  with  Capt.  Fogg,  one  of  the  joUiest  of  fresh 
water  tars,  who,  for  nearly  thirty  years,  has  navigated  these 
waters.  He  will  tell  you  of  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  lake, 
and  of  the  many  daring  adventures  which  have  occurred  in  this 
wild  and  once  uninhabited  region. 

The  plank  is  in,  and  you  have  waved  your  last  "  good-bye  " 
to  friends  on  shore,  and  the  Uttle  steamer,  like  a  thing  of  life, 
is  walking  the  water.  To  your  right  is  Indian  Point  extending 
into  the  lake,  and  long  since  the  abode  of  the  red  man. 
Directly  ahead  is  Bear  Mountain,  and  beyond,  further  up  the 
lake,  is  Owl's  Head,  twelve  miles  from  the  Memphremagog 
House.  It  towers  far  above  its  neighbors,  and  its  peculiarly 
rounded  summit,  riven  seemingly  into  immense  fisures,  will 
attract  your  attention. 

Leaving  Newport  you  pass  Adams'  Bay  on  the  west,  and 
soon  afterward  Potton  Bay  on  the  same  side  of  the  lake,  named 
after  the  township  in  which  it  is  situated. 

THE    TWIN    SISTERS. 

Gliding  smoothly  over  the  water  past  Indian  Point,  you  come 
in  sight  of  the  "  Twin  Sisters  " — two  beautiful  islands  covered 
with  evergreens,  and  standing  near  the  eastern  shore.  Looking 
between  these  islands,  as  the  steamer  comes  abreast  of  them, 
you  will  notice  the  village  of  Stanstead,  in  Canada,  ten  miles 
distant. 

PROVINCE    ISLAND. 

Straight  ahead  is  Province  Island,  containing  about  100  acres, 
most  of  which  was  formerly  cultivated  by  a  Frenchman,  who, 
with  his  family,  lived  here  in  seclusion.     Mr.  Carlos  Pierce,  a 


THE    CANADA   LINE.  195 

Boston  dry  goods  merchant,  and  who  has  a  summer  residence 
and  an  extensive  farm  at  Stanstead,  is  now  its  proprietor.  Here 
he  intends  to  raise  blooded  stock. 

THE    CANADA    LINE. 

The  Mountain  Maid  is  making  good  headway,  and  you  begin 
to  feel  the  exhilerating  influence  of  the  pure  air  and  the  grand 
mountain  and  lake  scenery.  You  are  now  approaching  the 
Canada  line  and  presently  will  pass  into  British  waters.  In 
Vermont  the  farms  and  farm  houses  indicate  thrift  and  enter- 
prise, but  beyond,  in  Canada,  the  country  is  wild  and  poorly 
cultivated.  Near  'the  lake  shore  you  will  notice  a  clearing 
extending  westward  up  the  mountains.  An  iron  post  marks  the 
dividing  line,  and  it  will  be  pointed  out  to  you  by  Capt.  Fogg. 
Eastward,  extending  across  the  southern  end  of  Province 
Island,  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  you  will  observe  a  gap  in  the 
woods  which  shows  the  course  of  the  line  on  that  side  of  the 
lake.  The  steamer's  bell  is  tolled  and  soon  you  will  pass  from 
the  United  States  to  the  dominions  of  Queen  Victoria. 

TEA     TABLE     ISLAND. 

East  of  Province  Island,  and  close  in  shore,  is  Tea  Table 
Island.  It  is  a  charming  little  spot,  covered  with  cedar,  and  is 
just  the  place  for  a  rural  pic-nic' 

CEDARVILLE. 

Beyond,  on  the  eastern  shore,  is  Cedarville,  in  the  town  of 
Stanstead.  A  cedar  grove  comes  dowm  to  the  lake,  and  the 
place  has  a  quiet,  rural  aspect.  The  bay  extends  north  of  the 
landing,  and  terminates  in  a  sharp  point. 

fitch's  bay. 
Steaming  along  you  are  soon  off  Fitch's  Bay,  which  extends 
north-east  about  seven  miles  inland. 


196 


THE   CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 


WHETSTONE    ISLAND. 

Near  the  entrance  to  Fitch's  Bay  is  Whetstone  Island,  which 
is  remarkable  for  a  quarry  of  Novalculite  or  Magog  oil  stone, 
as  it  has  been  called.  This  quarry  of  Novalculite,  which  made 
capital  whetstones,  was  worked  some  years  ago  by  a  company 
from  Burke,  but  the  British  government  finally  put  a  stop  to  it. 

magoon's  point. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  lake  you  soon  pass  Magoon's  Point, 
the  grassy  slope  of  which  reaches  down  to  the  water.  Excel- 
lent lime  is  burnt  here,  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  country. 

An  unexplored  cavern  exists  in  this  locality,  and  it  has  been 
believed  that  a  large  amount  of  treasure  stolen  from  a  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  was  secreted  there.  Indeed,  there  are  per- 
sons who  claim  to  have  seen  two  massive  gold  candlesticks 
which  were  found  buried  in  the  road  near  the  cave. 


ROUND    island. 

As  the  steamer  nears  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  you  pass 
Round  Island  on  your  right.  It  is  only  half  a  mile  from  the 
Mountain  House,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  tourists,  who  hire 


THE    MOUNTAIN     HOUSE.  197 

Mr.  Jennings*  boats  for  the  purpose.  It  is  covered  with  cedars 
and  its  rounded  form,  and  rock  bound  shore  give  it  an  interest- 
ing appearance. 

THE    MOUNTAIN    HOUSE. 

Heading  in  shore  the  Mountain  Maid  glides  swiftly  up  to  the 
wharf  of  the  Mountain  House,  which  is  situated  at  the  base  of 
Owl's  Head,  in  a  sheltered  nook,  is  completely  shut  out  from 
the  outside  world,  except  by  lake  communication.  This  is 
is  twelve  miles  from  Newport,  although  you  can  hardly  believe 
it,  the  time  has  passed  so  pleasantly.  A.  C.  Jennings,  a 
veteran  hotel  keeper,  is  proprietor  of  the  Mountain  House. 
North  of  the  house  is  a  little  bay,  and  from  it  rises  almost 
abruptly  the  mountain  to  a  great  hight.  Tourists  ascending 
Owl's  Head  leave  the  steamer  at  this  place,  but  before  viewing 
the  scenery  from  so  elevated  a  position  you  will  continue  the 
trip  with  Capt.  Fogg. 

The  lake  and  the  Islands  in  this  vicinity  present  a  pictur- 
esque appearance,  and  you  never  tire  in  beholding  the  view. 

MINNOW   ISLAND. 

East  of  the  Mountain  House  and  nearer  the  eastern  shore  is 
Minnow  Island,  named  from  its  diminutive  size.  It  is  a  favor- 
ite fishing  place  in  that  region,  and  some  of  the  famous  lake 
trout  are  caught  there. 

skinner's  cave. 

East  of  the  Mountain  House  will  be  noticed  Skinner's 
Island,  close  to  the  water.  On  the  north-western  side,  near  the 
end,  is  Skinner's  Cave.  It  is  an  interesting  locality,  and 
is  frequently  visited  by  the  guests  of  the  Mountain  House.  It 
is  about  ten  feet  wide  at  the  entrance,  twelve  to  fourteen  feet 
high,  and  extends  into  the  rock  a  distance  of  some  thirty  feet, 
narrowing  from  the  entrance  until  the  two  walls  meet. 


198 


THE  CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 


SKINNER  S    CAVE. 

There  is  a  legend  connected  with  it  which  Dix  has  told  in 
verse,  but  before  giving  you  his  story  we  will  state  that  it  con- 
cerns one  Uriah  Skinner,  the  bold  smuggler  of  Magog.  In 
the  war  of  1812  smuggling  was  extensively  carried  on  between 
persons  residing  in  Canada  and  Vermont,  and  Uriah  was  the 
most  successful  of  them  all.  He,  however,  was  caught  at  last, 
as  will  be  seen : 


WHAT  BECAME  OF  THE  BOLD  SMUGGLER  OF  MAGOG. 


"  Fancy  a  fellow,  brawny  and  browm, 

With  very  black  hair  that  liangs  shaggily  down, 

With  w^hiskers  remarkably  bnshy  and  black, 

With  fists  which  might  give  a  most  terrible  thwack  ; 

With  very  fierce  eyes  under  dark  heavy  brows, 

That  flashed  like  a  cat's  when  it  springs  on  a  mouse, 


skinner's  cave.  199 

Or  like  coals  in  a  cavern  that  gleam  fiery  red, 

With  a  great  Roman  nose,  so  uncommonly  red. 

That  whenever  he  washed  it  ('twas  seldom)  I  wis, 

The  water  would  certainly  bubble  and  hiss  I 

With  a  mouth,  firm,  compressed,  and  much  prone  to  a  sneer, 

With  a  purple  scar  stretching  from  chin  unto  ear ; 

With  a  huge  dagger  stuck  in  the  belt  round  his  waist, 

And  five  or  six  pistols  beside  it  placed ; 

With  a  heavy  cutlass  not  long  nor  pliant, 

Such  as  little  "  Jack  "  used  when  he  slaughtered  the  "  Giant," 

With  great  heavy  boots — and  as  heavy  a  purse, 

With  a  tongue  that  scarce  wagged  but  it  uttered  a  curse ! 

Fierce  as  a  tiger — as  cruel  as  Nero — 

Fancy  all  these,  and  you'll  picture  my  hero ; 

Whose  name,  for  fame  has  preserved  the  same, 

Was  Uriah  Skinner,  who'd  always  on  hand 

Plenty  of  articles  contraband. 


Of  all  the  smugglers  who  plied  on  the  lake, 
Uriah  Skinner  was  hardest  to  take ; 
The  officers  hunted  him  often,  and  yet 
Uriah  Skinner  they  never  could  get ! 
For  if  his  boat  they  e'er  chanced  to  have  sight  of, 
He  vanished,  as  'twere,  and  was  speedily  right  ofi". 
Like  the  Flying  Dutchman,  he  seemed  to  melt 
Into  mist ;  so  that  some  who  pursued  him,  felt 
Inclined  to  believe  he  had  something  to  do 
With  a  certain  dark  gentleman — ^you  know  who ! 

The  pitcher  may  often  go  to  the  well 
Yet  at  last  be  broken .  so  it  befell 
In  the  case  of  Uriah — for  that  bold  chap 
Was  caught  at  last  like  a  rat  in  a  ti'ap  I 


Night  on  the  lake,  so  clear  and  calm, 

The  night  breeze  sings  in  the  pines  its  psalm  ; 

Stars  shine  bright  in  the  dark  blue  sky. 


200  THE   CONNECTICUT  VALLEY   GUIDE. 

And  the  crescent  moon  sails  in  her  glory  on  high : 

Above  and  below,  it  is  all  serene, 

Who,  as  he  gazed  on  the  peaceful  scene 

At  that  moment,  would  fancy  that  nine  or  ten 

Very  keen  sighted,  and  well  armed  men, 

Motionless,  and  still  as  the  dead, 

Were  ambushed  under  the  great  Owl's  Head  ? 

And  their  ears  were  open  as  well  as  their  eyes, 

Listening  and  looking  alike  for  a  prize ; 

There  they  watched  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  or  note 

Of  Skinner,  expected  that  night  in  his  boat. 


"  Look — don't  you  see  ! 

That,  Skinner  must  be ! " 
Oh,  Skinner  !  bold  smuggler  1  there's  peril  for  thee ! 
For  down  to  the  shore  witb  leap  and  bound, 
The  officers  rush — as  goes  a  blood-hound 
On  a  fugitive's  track  when  the  scent  is  found  ! 
Thte  boa  is  manned,  and  they're  off  the  next  minute, 
They  see  Skinner's  boat,  and  Uriah  S.  in  it ; 
Now  the  chase  grows  eager  and  hot. 
And  Skinner  himself  thinks  so  too,  I  wot, 
For  his  boat  speeds  over  the  waters  blue, 
Swiftly  as  flieth  an  Indian's  canoe, 
And  he  has  an  Indian's  craftiness  too; 
Now  they  near  him — now  they  are  on 
His  heels  as  it  were — and  now — He  is  goke  ! 


But  where  ? 
How  they  stare 
And  rave  and  swear  I 
And  how — here,  there,  and  eveiywhere, 
The  island  they  search — for  they  think,  like  the  deer 
Who  leaves  the  forest  and  takes  to  the  floods. 
The  smuggler  has  quitted  the  lake  for  the  woods ! 
But  all  they  find  is  the  empty  boat. 
Which  one  of  the  officers  pushes  afloat : 
The  fruitless  search  they  at  length  give  o'er. 


LONG    ISLAND — BALANCE     ROCK.  201 

And  Urial^  Skinner  was  never  seen  more ! 
'Tis  said,  that  one  of  the  officers  swore, 
A  strong  brimstone  odor  pervaded  the  shore  ? 
And  another  averred  that  he  saw  Skinner  go 
In  the  clutch  of  old  Nick,  to  the  regions  below. 


Nearly  six  years  had  passed  away, 
When  a  fisherman  out  in  a  stoiTU  one  day, 
Was  very  near  making  an  awful  plunge 
To  become  a  meal  for  the  pickerel  or  longe ; 
But  through  the  mist,  gazing  eager-eyed, 
In  the  side  of  an  island,  a  cave  he  spied. 
And  in  less  than  a  minute,  was  safe  inside. 


Very  soon  passed  the  storm,  and  then, 

Ere  he  prepared  to  go  fishing  again, 

He  looked  above,  beneath,  and  around. 

And  what  do  you  think  the  fisherman  found  ? 

Neither  a  golden  nor  a  silver  prize, 

But  a  skull  with  sockets  where  once  were  eyes ; 

Also  some  bones  of  arms  and  thighs, 

And  a  vertebral  column  of  giant  size : 

How  they  got  there,  he  could' t  devise. 

For  he'd  only  been  used  to  common  place  graves, 

And  knew  nought  of  "  organic  remains  "  in  caves ; 

On  matters  like  those^  his  wits  were  dull. 

So  he  dropped  the  subject  as  well  as  the  skull. 

'Tis  needless  to  say 

In  this  later  day, 
'Twas  the  smuggler's  bones  in  the  cave,  that  lay : 
All  I've  to  add  is — the  bones  in  a  grave 
Were  placed,  and  the  cavern  was  called  '  Skinner's  Cave.' 

LONG    island — BALANCE   ROCK. 

North  of  Skinner's  Cave  is  Long  Island.     It  is  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  long,  and  half  a  mile  wide.     It  has  a  bold  and  rocky 


202 


THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 


BALANCE    ROCK. 

shore,  and  near  its  northern  end,  on  the  western  side,  are  some 
perpendicular  rocks,  named  the  PaHsades. 

On  the  southern  shore  of  the  island  is  the  famous  Balance 
Rock,  so  frequently  visited  by  tourists.  Capt.  Fogg  will  point 
it  out  to  you,  but  you  would  do  well  to  row  over  to  it  in  a  skiff 
while  at  the  Mountain  House.  It  is  a  huge  granite  rock  of 
many  tons  weight,  resting  upon  another  close  to  the  water's 
edge  and  poised  upon  a  single  point,  as  seen  in  the  illustration. 
How  it  got  into  its  present  position  is  a  matter  of  speculation. 

MOLSON'S    ISLAND. 

Further  north  is  Molson's  Island,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
lake.  It  is  owned  by  Mr.  Molson,  a  Montreal  broker,  whose 
summer  residence  will  be  noticed  eastward  upon  the  hillside, 
from  which  there  is  indeed  a  picturesque  view. 

THE    SCENERY CANADIAN   RESIDENCES. 

At  this  point  there  is  some  of  the  best  scenery  on  the  lake. 
From  the  west  shore,  Owl's  Head  rises  abruptly  to  a  great 
bight  and  its  cone-like  shape  will  attract  your  attention.     Fur- 


MOUNT    ELEPHANTIS.  203 

ther  north  is  Mount  Elephantis,  and  in  the  distance,  between 
the  two  mountains  is  Jay  Peak. 

The  eastern  shore  which  rises  to  the  hight  of  several  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  lake,  is  adorned  with  the  summer  residences 
of  the  wealthy  business  men  of  Montreal.  Among  them  are 
Judge  Day's,  Mr.  Molson's  and  Mr.  Chapman's. 


MOUNT    ELEPHANTIS. 

You  are  now  past  Mount  Elephantis  or  Sugar  Loaf,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called.  The  upper  point  bears  resemblance  to  an 
elephant's  head  and  back.  As  you  proceed  north,  you  will 
observe  that  this  mountain  is  in  the  shape  of  a  horse  shoe. 
Within  the  curve  is  some  excellent  farming  lands,  situated  upon 
an  elevated  plain  above  the  lake.  Capt.  Fogg  has  given  this 
locality  the  name  of  "  Sebastopol,"  from  its  impregnable 
position. 

CONCERT    POND. 

West  of  the  most  elevated  point  of  Mount  Elephantis,  lying 
between  that  and  Ridge  Mountain,  is  Concert  Pond.  It  is  sev- 
eral hundred  feet  above  Lake  Memphremagog,  and  abounds  in 


204  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 

brook  trout.  It  is  a  favorite  fishing  place  for  tourists.  The 
Pond  is  two  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  view 
of  it  from  Mount  Elephantis  is  exceedingly  beautiful. 

GEOEGEVILLE. 

Upon  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  about  twenty  miles  from 
Newport,  and  seven  and  a  half  from  the  Mountain  House,  is 
Georgeville.  It  contains  two  hotels  and  several  stores,  and  is 
the  most  important  place  along  the  lake.  Capt.  Fogg  resides 
here,  and  in  the  bay  south  of  the  village  the  Mountain  Maid 
was  built. 

knowlton's   landing. 

At  Georgeville  Capt.  Fogg  takes  in  the  mail  and  heads 
towards  Knowlton's  Landing,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake. 
This  is  the  crossing  place  for  the  inhabitants  in  the  eastern 
townships  when  going  to  Montreal.  For  nearly  thirty  years 
Capt.  Fogg  has  carried  the  mail  across  the  lake  at  this  place, 
commencing  first  with  a  canoe.  The  lake  is  three  miles  wide, 
and  will  average  300  feet  in  depth,  from  one  shore  to  the  other. 
Stages  run  regularly  from  Knowlton's  to  "Waterloo,  20  miles 
distant,  where  they  connect  with  the  Stanstead,  Shefford  and 
Chambly  Railroad,  for  St.  John's  and  Montreal. 

Sergeant's  Bay  extends  some  five  miles  inland,  northeast 
from  KJiowlton's. 

gibraltee  point. 

Leaving  Knowlton's  you  pass  Gibraltar  Point  on  your  left. 
The  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  lake,  presenting 
a  magnificent  appearance.  On  the  summit,  near  the  southern 
point,  is  the  boundary  comer  of  four  towns — Potten,  Bolton, 
Stanstead  and  Magog. 

lord's   island. 

Turning  Gibraltar  Point  and  coming  into  the  lake  again, 
you  get  an  extensive  view.     In  the  distance  you  will  notice 


MOUNT    ORFORD. 


205 


Lord's  Island,  the  last  one  of  any  importance  before  reaching 


Magos:. 


MOUNT     ORFORD. 

For  some  time,  in  looking  north  your  eye  has  rested  upon  an 
elevation,  peering  above  the  distant  hills.  As  you  approach 
the  northern  end  of  the  lake  its  elevated  summit  is  more 
distinctly  seen.  This  is  Mount  Orford,  3,300  feet  high,  and 
the  most  extensive  mountain  in  Lower  Canada.  It  is  live 
miles  from  Magog,  and  a  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  to 
its  summit. 

MAGOG. 

The  whistle  of  the  Mountain  Maid  is  blown  and  you  will 
notice  that  she  is  heading  in  shore.  Ahead  is  the  village  of 
Magog,  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  Coming  up  to  the  wharf,  the 
steamer  is  made  fast  and  you  go  on  shore.  A  few  minutes 
walk  will  take  you  to  the  Parks  House,  kept  in  true  Cana- 
dian style.  The  village  is  somewhat  antidiluvian  in  appear- 
ance and  you  wonder  if  some  of  the  early  settlers  did  not  come 
over  in  the  ark.  Here  the  water  in  the  outlet  makes  a  great 
descent,  furnishing  excellent  power  for  the  many  saw  mills. 
Beyond  the  town,  towards  the  base  of  Mount  Orford  is  a  wide 


206 


THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY    GUIDE. 


belt  of  forest,  and  for  many  miles  around  there  is  an  unlimited 
supply  of  the  best  of  timber,  principally  spruce. 

A  stage  runs  from  Magog  to  Sherbrook,  on  arrival  of  the 
steamer,  16  miles  distant,  where  the  tourist  can  proceed  by 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Quebec  or  to  Montreal.  The 
distance  from  Sherbrook  to  Quebec  is  121  miles.  Another 
stage  runs  to  Waterloo,  21  miles  distant,  where  you  can 
connect  with  the  Stanstead,  Sheflford  &  Chambly  Railroad. 
By  this  route  to  Montreal  it  is  84  miles. 

THE    RETURN   TRIP. 

Having  spent  a  few  hours  at  Magog,  the  steamer's  whistle  is 
blown  and  you  go  on  board  to  make  the  return  trip.  The 
view  up  the  lake,  towards  the  south  is  exceedingly  beautiful. 
In  the  dim  distance,  lying  between  Owl's  Head  and  Mount 
Elephautis,  is  Jay  Peak,  and  the  Green  Mountain  range. 
The  Mountain  Maid  steams  on  through  the  water,  making  here 
and  there  an  occasional  stop  until  you  finally  reach  the  Moun- 
tain House.  Leaving  the  steamer  to  spend  the  night  with  Mr. 
Jennings,  you  wave  a  "  good  bye  "  to  Capt.  Fogg,  and  pass  up 
the  steps  to  the  hotel. 


owl's    HEAD    AS    SEEN   FROM   THE   NORTH. 


owl's  head  207 

owl's  head  as  seen  from  the  north. 

Up  with  the  sun,  after  a  night's  sleep,  you  step  out  upon  the 
high  point  of  rocks  south  of  the  house  to  enjoy  the  view. 
Here  you  watch  sunlight  and  shadow  until  summoned  to  break- 
fast The  morning  meal  over,  you  commence  to  fit  out  for  a 
trip  to  the  summit  of  Owl's  Head.  Staff  in  hand  you  leave 
the  hotel.  For  a  little  way  the  course  is  tolerably  level,  but 
after  about  ten  minutes  walking,  the  ascent  commences  in 
earnest.  On  either  side  the  path  is  bounded  by  woods,  where 
the  wild  bird  sings  and  the  squirrel  gambols  undisturbed. 
Before  long,  you  perceive  before  and  above  you,  a  singular 
rock  of  very  large  size,  projecting  over  the  path  from  the  right 
hand  side.  This  is  called  Shelter  Rock ;  a  name  not  altogether 
inappropriate,  as  a  large  party  might  find  refuge  from  a  shower 
beneath  its  overhanging  portion.  Not  far  beyond  "■  Shelter,"  is 
High  Rock — a  huge  mass  of  stone  crowned  with  plumy  ferns, 
and  half  clad  with  the  greenest  moss.  A  little  brook  of  the 
purest  water  is  soon  reached — it  is  this  stream  which  supplies 
the  fish  pond  below.  The  rivulet  crossed,  after  a  rather  steep 
"  grade,"  you  hear  the  tinkle  of  cow-bells,  and  suddenly  enter  a 
large  open  space,  almost  circular  in  shape  and  nearly  level. 
After  the  brisk  climbing,  the  pathway  through  the  Old  Field, 
as  it  is  termed,  is  a  pleasant  change  enough.  You  may,  if  you 
choose,  loiter  and  pick  berries  and  wild  flowers,  which  are  very 
abundant.  A  maple  grove  is  next  passed,  and  then  you  arrive 
at  a  circular  sort  of  basin  named  Fern  Hollow.  Still  ascend- 
ing, you  reach  Fern  Rock,  where  a  botanist  might  long  luxu- 
riate. The  way  now  becomes  pretty  steep,  but  if  you  halt 
occasionally  to  recover  breath,  you  may  use  your  eyes  as  well 
as  rest  your  lungs,  for  there  are  plenty  of  objects  worthy  atten- 
tion. For  here  is  Birch  Rock.  On  the  steep  hill-side  above 
you  are  two  large,  oblong  granite  rocks — their  ends  being 
placed  so  close  together  that  there  does  not  appear  room  to 
place  a  finger's  point  between  them.     Yet  in  that  fissure  is  suf- 


208  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 

ficient  earth  to  nourish  a  fine  birch  tree,  which  seems  to  rise 
from,  and  grow  out  of  the  lower  stone.  Onward  and  upward 
we  go,  until  we  are  brought  to  a  stand  at  the  ToU-Gate,  where 
it  is  by  no  means  an  unusual  thing  to  find  a  toll-keeper  also. 
This  Toil-Gate  is  formed  by  two  large  rocks,  from  whose  upper 
surface  trees  spring  upwards,  and  between  which,  there  is  just 
room  for  one  very  stout,  or  two  very  slim  persons  to  walk 
abreast.  Hoops  have  no  chance  here,  unless  the  circles  are 
changed  into  ovals,  or  elipses.  Occasionally  a  lady  has  been 
compelled  to  retire  to  a  leafy  bower,  hard  by,  called  Crinoline 
Chamber,  and  divest  herself  of  all  "hindrances,"  for  a  Camel 
may  as  well  attempt  to  go  through  the  eye  of  a  needle 
as  a  fashionably  dressed  lady  to  get  through  the  Toll-Gate. 
This  perilous  "pass"  having  been  accomplished,  the  next 
object  of  attraction  is  Chair  Rock,  from  whose  summit  the  first 
view  of  the  lake  during  the  ascent,  is  obtained. 

Passing  along  you  come  to  Breakneck  Stairs.  Next  come 
Jennings'  and  Winding  Staircase,  and  then  Refreshment  Hol- 
low, where  your  little  tin  can  will  be  found  useful  in  coveying 
water  from  the  spring  to  your  lips.  Somewhat  refreshed,  you 
press  forward  and  soon  stand  on  the  summit  of  Owl's  Head — 
nearly  3,000  feet  above  the  waters  of  Memphremagog. 

The  prospect  is  magnificent  beyond  description.  Looking 
south  you  see  Clyde,  Barton  and  Black  Rivers,  Newport,  all 
the  islands  on  the  lake,  and  the  lake  itself  from  end  to  end. 
To  the  north,  Durham's  Point,  Dewey's  Point,  Knowlton  Bay, 
the  Outlet,  Orford  Mountain,  and  countless  other  objects.  To 
the  east,  Seymour  Lake,  Stanstead  Plain,  Rock  Island,  Sa- 
lem Pond,  Charleston  Pond,  Derby  Center,  Derby  Line,  Wil- 
loughby  Lake,  Wliite  Mountains,  Little  Magog,  Massawip- 
pee  Lake,  Georgeville,  &c.  To  the  west,  the  continuation 
of  the  Green  Mountain  Range.  To  the  north-west,  the  Sugar 
Loaf  and  Ridge  Mountain,  Broome  Lake  and  North  and  South 
Troy.  In  a  clear  day  Montreal  can  be  distinctly  seen  in  the 
north-west. 


owl's  head.  209 

The  summit  itself,  as  might  be  expected  from  its  appearance 
from  below,  is  all  split  up  or  riven  into  gorges  and  ravines, 
from  which  four  distinct  peaks  ascend.  In  one  of  these  ravines 
is  the  Freemason's  Lodge,  so  named  from  the  fact  that  the 
Golden  Rule  Lodge  of  Stanstead,  hold  a  lodge  there  once  a 
year,  on  the  24th  of  June.  It  is  a  spot  well  calculated  for  ex- 
ercising the  mysteries  of  the  craft.  On  a  triangular  rock  are 
painted  the  compass  and  square,  and  below  that  masonic 
emblem,  other  inscriptions. 


WILLOUGHBY  LAKE. 


WHERE    SITUATED GENERAL    APPEARANCE. 

In  Northern  Vermont,  in  the  town  of  Westmore,  little  more 
than  20  miles  from  the  Canada  line  and  350  from  New  York, 
is  Willoughby  Lake,  bordering  which  there  is  some  of  the  most 
wonderful  and  sublime  scenery  found  in  New  England.  The 
Lake  is  six  miles  long,  the  northern  end  curving  a  little  to  the 
east,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles  wide.  Its  depth  is  so 
great  that  no  reliable  measurement  of  it  has  been  made.  Be- 
tween the  mountains,  in  the  narrowest  place,  where  the  water 
is  the  deepest,  it  has  been  sounded  to  the  depth  of  600  feet,  and 
no  bottom  was  found. 

On  either  side  rises  a  huge  mountain  to  more  than  2,000  feet 
— Mount  Willoughby,  on  the  east  side,  according  to  a  barome- 
trical measurement  made  in  1860  by  the  Vermont  State  Geolo- 
gist, to  2,638  feet  above  the  lake  and  3,800  feet  above  the  sea. 

SINGULAR    APPEARANCE    OF   MOUNT    WILLOUGHBY   FROM   THE 

CARRIAGE   ROAD. 

A  carriage  road  was  constructed  several  years  ago  along  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  from  which  you  get  a  better  view  of 
the  mighty  grandeur  of  Mount  Willoughby  than  from  any  other 
point  near  its  base.  For  nearly  two  miles  a  perpendicular  wall 
of  granite  rock,  intermingled  with  silicious  limestone,  rises  to 
the  bight  of  600  feet,  while  below,  between  it  and  the  lake,  the 
side  of  the  mountain  for  more  than  a  thousand  feet  in  hight, 
which  is  covered  with  huge  rocks,  is  little  less  than  perpen- 
dicular. 


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212  THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 


A    VIEW   FROM   THE    SUMMIT. 

Leaving  the  hotel  just  south  of  the  lake,  you  enter  the  woods, 
and  after  a  walk  of  two  miles  through  the  forest  of  maple,  beech 
and  spruce,  passing  two  springs  of  the  purest  and  coldest  of 
water,  you  reach  the  summit  very  little  fatigued.  From  here 
you  get  a  magnificent  view.  East  are  the  Franconia  and  "White 
Mountains — the  summit  houses  of  Mount  Washington  being 
easily  seen  with  a  glass  in  a  clear  day.  West  you  have  before 
you  the  entire  range  of  the  Green  Mountains,  among  which  can 
be  seen  the  summits  of  Killington  Peak,  Camel's  Hump,  Mount 
Mansfield  and  Jay  Peak.  Between  these  two  great  mountain 
ranges,  and  within  your  vision,  are  ponds,  wide  forests,  culti- 
vated fields,  farm  houses  and  villages,  forming  a  magnificent 
scene. 

Having  beheld  the  distant  view,  you  walk  further  to  the  west 
and  approach  close  to  the  mighty  precipice,  where  you  look 
down  upon  the  lake,  2,500  feet  below.  At  first  your  nerves  may 
betray  signs  of  weakness,  but  shortly  overcoming  all  fear  you 
are  absorbed  in  the  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  purity  and 
transparency  of  the  water  of  the  lake  is  here  observed.  Along 
its  shores  for  several  miles,  every  rock  and  sunken  log,  and  al- 
most the  little  fishes,  can  be  seen.  From  here  you  have  a  view 
of  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  the  eastern  shore  of  which 
seems  almost  in  a  straight  line.  Mount  Hor,  on  the  west  side, 
and  Mount  Willoughby  on  the  east,  have  the  appearance  of  once 
having  been  united,  and  you  wonder  what  mighty  agency  in 
years  long  past  were  employed  to  rend  them  asunder.  Some 
geologists  are  of  the  opinion  that  during  the  drifl  period  a 
northern  current  rushed  through  here  and  wore  away  the  calca- 
reous rock,  which  had  become  partially  decomposed.  However 
this  deep  and  narrow  gorge  was  formed,  it  is  a  place  of  rare 
interest  to  the  student  of  nature  and  the  lover  of  the  sublime. 


WILLOUGHBY    LAKE. 


213 


The  tourist  will  uow  descend  to  the  valley  below,  well  paid 
for  the  time  it  has  taken  to  ascend  the  summit. 


THE  WILLOUGHBY  LAKE  HOUSE. 


To  reach  this  most  charming  place,  the  tourist  will  leave  the 
cars  at  "West  Burke,  77  miles  from  Wliite  River  Junction,  and 
28  miles  south  of  Lake  Memphremagog.  At  the  depot  you 
will  find  a  carriage  in  readiness  to  take  you  to  the  Lake  House, 
six  miles  distant.  The  Hotel  is  kept  by  Mr.  Alonzo  Bemis, 
and  is  situated  in  a  delightful  place,  south  of  the  lake,  which 
it  overlooks.  There  is  always  a  good  breeze  through  the 
valley,  and  even  in  the  warmest  of  weather  you  will  find 
this  a  cool  and  delightful  resort.  The  Hotel  will  accommodate 
about  a  hundred  guests,  and  under  the  management  of  Mr. 
Bemis  it  has  become  widely  known.  Horses  and  carriages  are 
kept  for  guests  who  may  wish  to  visit  the  neighboring  places 
of  interest,  and  on  the   lake   you  will  find  row-boats  for  those 


214         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

who  may  desire  to  fish  for  lake  trout,  or  sail  along  the  shores. 
There  is  also  good  trout  fishing  in  the  streams  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Hotel. 

Excepting  the  farm-house  and  other  buildings  connected  with 
the  Hotel,  and  the  summer  residence  owned  by  Mr.  Robert  Van 
Arsdale  of  Newark,  N.  J.,  there  are  no  other  buildings  in  the 
vicinity.  The  quietness  of  the  place  and  the  beautiful  scenery, 
are  in  refreshing  contrast  with  the  stirring,  bustling  scenes  of 
city  life  which  the  tourist  has  just  left  behind. 

The  accompanying  engraving  of  the  lake  and  mountains  is 
from  a  photograph  by  Mr.  B.  F.  Gage,  of  St.  Johnsbury,  and 
it  will  give  the  tourist  a  good  idea  of  the  place,  but  no  picture 
can  give  you  a  correct  representation  of  its  sublimity  and 
grandeur. 

Looking  down  the  lake  towards  the  north  from  the  Hotel, 
you  will  observe  the  summit  of  Owl's  Head  in  Canada,  thirty 
miles  distant. 

The  Hotel  is  supplied  with  pure,  cold  spring  water,  brought 
in  pipes  from  the  hillside.  From  the  Hotel  it  runs  north  into 
the  lake,  and  thence  into  Lake  Memphremagog  and  the  St. 
Lawrence.  About  twenty  rods  in  rear  of  the  Hotel  is  a  little 
lakelet,  which  discharges  into  a  small  stream  running  south  into 
the  Passumpsic  and  thence  into  the  Connecticut.  It  is  situated 
so  near  the  water-shed  between  Long  Island  Sound  and  the 
St.  Lawrence,  that  a  few  hours  work  would  change  its  outlet 
from  the  Coimecticut  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

THE    WALKS    AND    DRIVES. 

The  walks  and  drives  around  Willoughby  are  numerous  and 
pleasant.  That  down  the  lake  shore,  under  the  frowning  walls 
of  Mount  Willoughby  will  first  claim  your  attention.  You  enter 
the  forest  which  overhangs  the  road  and  pass  along  under  the 
grateful  shade.  Presently  you  come  to  a  huge  granite  rock,  at 
least  twelve  feet  high,  Avhich  at  some  time  came  from  the  moun- 
tain above.     Passing  along  you  come  to  another  granite  rock 


WILLOUGHBY   LAKE.  215 

lying  in  the  lake.  You  climb  down  the  bank  and  walk  out  upon 
it,  and  from  which  you  have  a  magnificent  view.  Don't  be 
alarmed — but  below  you  is  the  "  Devil's  Den."  The  rock  con- 
tains a  cavern,  and  in  it  the  "old  fellow"  is  supposed  to  have 
held  court  in  times  past.  Above  you,  at  the  foot  of  the  perpen- 
dicular wall,  is  the  "  Flower  Garden,"  where  many  rare  plants 
are  found.  It  is  visited  by  botanists  who  have  discovered  vari- 
eties of  plants  found  in  no  other  place  north  of  southern  Penn- 
sylvania. Continuing  north  you  come  to  the  "Silver  Cascade," 
where  a  little  stream  leaps  down  the  rocks  from  the  mountain. 
A  short  distance  north  is  "  Point  of  Rocks,"  where  the  mountain 
approaches  close  to  the  lake,  and  once  filled  the  road  at  this 
place. 

The  scenery  down  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  is  grand  and 
beautiful,  although  not  so  rugged  as  it  is  before  reaching  "  Point 
of  Rocks."  On  the  opposite  side  is  Mount  Hor,  Sugar  Loaf 
and  Bear  Mountain,  covered  with  a  maple  and  spruce  forest. 

The  distances  from  the  hotel  to  other  places  of  interest  are: 
Island  Pond,  where  there  is  a  good  hotel,  20  miles;  Newport 
by  team,  20;  Derby  Line,  22;  Stanstead  Plain,  23;  St.  Johns- 
bury,  22;  Barton,  11;  West  Charleston,  10;  Burke  Mountain, 
10;  West  Bui'ke,  6;  Newark,  6. 

In  going  to  Barton,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  east  of  the  depot, 
you  come  to  the  "  Flume."  The  stream  from  May's  Pond  passes 
through  it,  descending  into  Crystal  Lake,  In  the  solid  granite 
rock  is  a  passage  way  for  the  water  140  feet  long,  10  feet  wide, 
and  from  20  to  30  feet  in  depth.  The  walls  rise  almost  perpen- 
dicularly, and  are  as  smooth  as  if  cut  by  the  hand  of  man* 
Some  utilitarian  has  constructed  a  saw-mill  over  it  and  turned 
it  to  practical  account,  thus  greatly  marring  its  beauty.  It  is, 
however,  in  its  present  state  well  worth  visiting. 

Plunket  Falls,  in  Clyde  River,  in  Charleston,  twelve  miles 
from  Willoughby  Lake  House,  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  Here 
the  river  makes  a  descent  of  a  hundred  feet  in  half  a  mile,  and 


216  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

at  one  point  below  the  saw-mill  it  makes  almost  a  perpendicular 
fall  of  thirty  feet. 

Another  favorite  ride  fix)m  the  hotel  is  to  Newark  Hill,  from 
which  can  be  seen  the  White  and  Green  Mountain  ranges. 

There  are  other  drives  in  this  vicinity  none  the  less  interesting 
than  these,  and  the  tourist  will  find  Willoughby  one  of  the  most 
charming  and  home-like  resorts  found  in  this  interesting  region. 
Should  he  stop  only  for  a  single  day  he  will  have  no  occasion  to 
regret  the  visit. 


MOUNT  HOLYOKE. 


WHERE    SITUATED. 

Mount  Holtoke,  which  is  situated  two  miles  from  North- 
ampton, Mass.,  is  part  of  a  mountain  ridge  of  greenstone,  com- 
mencing with  West  Rock,  near  New  Haven,  and  extending 
northerly  across  the  State  of  Connecticut,  and  finally  terminating 
in  Belcherto^vn,  Mass.  It  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecti- 
cut River,  and  its  summit  forms  the  boundary  line  between  the 
to^vns  of  Hadley  and  South  Hadley.  Its  hight  is  1,175  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  about  1,000  above  the  river. 

THE    VIEW. 

It  is  probable  that  there  is  no  other  mountain  of  the  same 
hight  in  this  country,  from  which  the  view  is  so  extensive  and 
beautiful.  Thousands  visit  it  annually  and  are  enraptured  with 
the  magnificent  landscape  spread  before  them.  N.  P.  Willis 
has  w^ritten  enthusiastically  of  it,  and  "  in  point  of  cultivation 
and  fertile  beauty,"  he  truly  remarks,  "  it  is  probably  the  richeft 
in  America."  The  late  Edward  Hitchcock,  formerly  President 
of  Amherst  College,  in  his  work  on  the  Geology  of  Massachu- 
setts says : 

"  In  the  view  from  Moimt  Holyoke  we  have  the  Grand  and 
the  Beautiful  united,  the  latter,  however,  greatly  predominating. 
The  observer  finds  himself  lifted  up  nearly  a  thousand  feet 
from  the  midst  of  a  plain,  which  northerly  and  southerly,  can 
scarcely  be  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles ;  and  so  com- 
paratively narrow  is  the  naked  rock  on  which  he  stands,  that 
he  wonders  why  the  winds  and  storms  of  centuries  have  not 
10 


218 


THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 


broken  it  down.  He  soon,  however,  forgets  the  mountaia  be- 
neath him,  in  the  absorbing  beauties  before  him ;  for  his  eye 
rests  on  a  rich  alluvial  valley,  geometrically  diversified  in  the 
summer  with  grass,  corn,  grain  and  whatever  else  laborious  in- 
dustry has  there  reared.  Mount  Tom  is  higher  than  Holyoke, 
yet  most  of  the  interesting  group  of  objects  around  the  base  of 
Holyoke,  is  wanting  around  that  of  Tom.  Hence  Tom  is  not 
much  frequented,  while  during  the  summer  months  Holyoke  is 
a  place  of  great  resort.  The  "  Prospect  House  "  is  situated, 
undoubtedly,  on  the  most  commanding  spot  on  the  mountain." 


H 
I 

n 

H 
P4 
O 
^ 

H 

O 

(4 
hi 

o 

H 

Ui 
O 
X 

o 

w 

m 

H 
» 

O 


The  above  view  shows  Mounts   Holyoke  and  Tom,  as  seen 
from  the  north-east — Holyoke  on  the  left  and  Tom  on  the  right, 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE.  219 

WHAT    CAN   BE    SEEN   FROM   THE    SUMMIT. 

The  view  from  Mount  Holyoke  extends  more  than  a  hundred 
miles  up  and  down  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  and  mountains 
in  four  States  can  be  seen,  viz :  Monadnock,  N.  H.,  Green,  Vt., 
East  and  West  Eock,  New  Haven,  Conn.,  Greylock,  Wachu- 
sett,  Sugar  Loaf,  Norwottuck,  Toby,  Tom,  and  Nonotuck,  Mass. 

Thirty-eight  towns  and  villages  can  be  seen  with  the  aid  of 
the  telescope,  nearly  all  of  whicli  are  visible  to  the  naked  eye, 
thirty-one  in  Massachusetts,  and  seven  in  Connecticut,  as  fol- 
lows : — Northampton,  Haydenville,  Williamsburgh,  Goshen, 
Hadley,  Hatfield,  Whately,  South  Deerfield,  Greenfield,  Shel- 
bume,  Sunderland,  North  Hadley,  North  Amherst,  Amherst, 
Pelham,  Belchertown,  Granby,  South  Hadley,  Wilbraham, 
North  Wilbraham,  Springfield,  Chicopee,  Holyoke,  Longmeadow, 
West  Springfield,  Agawam,  Southampton,  Easthampton,  Mont- 
gomery, Blanford,  Ludlow,  in  Massachusetts ;  Thompsonville, 
Windsor,  East  W^indsor,  Enfield,  Hartford,  Sufiield  and  Somers, 
in  Connecticut. 

Among  the  objects  of  special  interest  that  can  be  seen  are : 
State  Lunatic  Hospital  and  Round  Hill,  at  Northampton ;  Wil- 
liston  Seminary,  Easthampton ;  Amherst  College  and  Massa- 
chusetts State  Agricultural  College,  Amherst ;  Mount  Holyoke 
Female  Seminary,  South  Hadley ;  Wesleyan  Academy,  Wil- 
braham ;  United  States  Armory,  at  Springfield ;  Manufacturing 
Town  of  Holyoke ;  Old  Hadley,  with  her  beautiful  streets ; 
Ox-Bow  Island  j  Shepherd's  Islaxid  in  the  Connecticut  River  &c. 


220 


THE    CONNECTICUT    VALLEY    GUIDE. 


MOUNT   HOLTOKE   FROM    SOUTH-WEST. 

^  Looking  at  Mount  Holyoke  from  a  point  north  of  Smith's 
Ferry,  you  have  the  view,  sketched  by  the  artist,  as  shown  in 
the  above  illustration. 

WHO    NAMED    IT. 

Mount  Holyoke  was  named  in  1654  after  Capt.  Elizur  Hol- 
yoke, one  of  the  first  proprietors  of  Northampton,  and  it  is  stated 
that  Mount  Tom,  on  the  opposite  (west)  side  of  the  Connecticut 
River,  received  its  name  from  one  Rowland  Thomas.     There 
are  various  traditions  concerning  this  matter,  but  the  following, 
as  stated  by  Dr.  Holland  in  his  History  of  Western  Massachu- 
setts, is  the  most  probable,  as  well  as  quite  poetical :     "  A  com- 
pany  of  the  first  settlers  of  Springfield  went  northward   to 
explore  the  country.     The  party  headed  by  Elizur  Holyoke 
went  up  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  another  headed  by 
Rowland  Thomas  went  up  on  the  west  side.     The  parties  ar- 
riving abreast,  at  the  narrow  place  in  the  river  below  Hock- 
anum,  at  what  is  now  called  Rock  Ferry,  Holyoke  and  Thomas 
held  a  conversation  with  one  another  across  the  river,  and  each, 
then  and  there,  gave  his  name  to  the  mountain   at  whose   feet 
he  stood.     The  name  of  Holyoke  remains  uncorrupted  and 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE.  221 

without  abbreviation,  while  Mount  Thomas  has  been  curtailed 
to  simple  and  homely  *  Tom.' 


J » 


THE    DIFFICULTY    OF    VISITING    MOUNT    HOLYOKE    IN    FORMER 

DAYS. 

It  is  probable  that  Mount  Holyoke  has  been  frequently  visited 
since  the  first  settlement  of  Northampton,  more  than  two  hmi- 
dred  years  ago,  but  its  summit,  on  which  the  Prospect  House 
is  situated,  and  the  most  sightly  place  on  the  mountain,  has  not 
been  easy  of  access  until  within  the  last  eight  or  ten  years.  A 
number  of  old  people  have  visited  the  Prospect  House  within 
a  few  years,  who  used  to  make  pilgrimages  to  the  spot  on  which 
the  house  now  stands,  upwards  of  three-quarters  of  a  century 
ago,  when  there  was  scarcely  a  foot-path  to  that  locality.  In 
those  days  and  at  subsequent  periods,  it  was  customary  for 
parties  who  visited  the  mountain,  to  take  with  them  an  ample 
supply  of  provisions  for  an  all-day  trip.  A  wood-road  led  up 
the  mountain,  near  the  place  where  the  north  road  was  locat- 
ed ;  but  instead  of  running  southerly  to  where  the  stable  now 
stands,  it  bore  off  easterly  to  the  gorge  in  the  mountain  east 
of  the  Prospect  House,  known  then  as  "  Taylor's  Notch,"  from 
which  place  a  foot  path  led  to  the  summit. 

THE    FIRST    HOUSE    AND    HOW    IT    WAS    BUILT. 

The  mountain  becoming  so  much  of  a  place  of  resort,  it  was 
deemed  desirable  to  have  a  house  erected  on  the  summit,  where 
shelter  and  refreshments  could  be  provided  when  needed.  In 
the  early  part  of  1821,  a  public  meeting  was  held  in  Northamp- 
ton for  the  purpose  of  devising  a  plan  for  the  erection  of  a 
suitable  building.  A  committee  of  five  was  appointed  to  solicit 
subscriptions,  of  whom  Samuel  F.  Lyman,  Nathaniel  Fowle, 
Robert  H.  Thayer,  were  members.  Mr.  Lyman,  who  was  a 
law  student  in  Northampton  at  that  time,  now  Judge  of  Pro- 
bate, was  the  leading  spirit  in  the  enterprise.  He  was  appointed 
chairman  of  the  committee,  and  succeeded  in  procuring  sub- 
scriptions in  materials  to  the  amount  of  $120,  besides  a  con- 


222         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

siderable  amount  in  labor.  The  17th  day  of  June,  the  anni- 
versary of  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  was  the  time  fixed  to 
erect  the  building.  The  church  bells  in  Northampton  and 
Hadley  were  rung  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  a  large 
number  of  people  in  those  towns,  turned  out  and  started  moun- 
tainward  with  tools,  lumber  and  provisions.  Before  noon  there 
were  nearly  three  hundred  people  present  on  the  mountain,  to 
assist  in  the  erection  of  the  house.  The  lumber  was  taken  up 
the  wood-road  to  Taylor's  Notch,  and  thence  carried  by  hand 
to  the  summit.  The  timber  for  the  frame  of  the  building 
was  cut  on  the  mountain,  and  the  work  was  laid  out  and  con- 
ducted by  Thomas  Pratt  and  Ebenezer  Eaton,  who  were  the 
"  boss "  carpenters.  The  building  was  fifteen  by  twenty-two 
feet,  and  was  covered  with  rough  boards. 

A   NIGHT    ON   THE    MOUNTAIN. 

The  house  not  being  completed,  quite  a  large  number  of  the 
young  men,  some  of  whom  had  volunteered  in  the  enterprise, 
more  for  the  sake  of  having  a  "jolly  time"  than  from  any  par- 
ticular love  of  mountain  scenery,  or  the  benefit  the  house  would 
be  to  the  public,  remained  on  the  mountain  over  night,  sleeping 
in  buffalo  robes  carried  there  for  that  purpose.  As  water  was 
scarce  and  liquor  abundant,  some  of  the  "  manifestations "  of 
that  night  would  bear  the  interpretation  that  the  party  had  con- 
sumed during  the  day  a  little  water  with  a  good  deal  of  brandy 
in  it.  Among  those  who  remained  on  the  mountain  during  the 
night,  were  Samuel  F.  Lyman,  Nathaniel  Fowle,  Robert  H. 
Thayer,  Josiah  Dickinson,  Thaddeus  Russell  and  William 
Tower — all  of  Northampton. 

THE  HOUSE   COMPLETED ORATION  BY  HON.  ELIJAH  H.  MILLS. 

The  building  was  completed  on  Saturday,  the  following  day 
after  it  was  commenced.  Then  came  the  dedication.  A  large 
number  of  people  from  the  adjoining  towns  participated,  includ- 
ing the  venerable  Dr.  Woodbridge,  of  Hadley.     An  eloquent 


MOUNT  •HOLTOKE.  223 

I 

oration  was  delivered  by  Elijah  H.  Mills,  of  Northampton,  in 
which  he  portrayed  the  beauties  of  mountain  scenery  described 
in  sacred  and  profane  history,  and  then  instituted  a  comparison 
with  the  grandeur  of  Holyoke.  The  address  produced  a  great 
sensation,  and  a  Hadley  man,  who  was  one  of  Dr.  Woodbrido'e's 
parishioners,  declared  quite  emphatically  that  there  was  a  good 
deal  more  Bible  in  it  than  in  any  of  the  Doctor's  sermons. 

This  being  before  the  days  of  temperance  societies,  there 
were  no  pledges  to  break,  and  as  they  had  drawn  inspiration 
from  something  more  powerful  than  romantic  scenery  and  elo- 
quent words,  all  were  jubilant  in  the  highest  degree  over  what 
had  been  accomplished,  and  it  is  presumable  that  a  more  "jolly" 
party  has  never  left  the  mountain  since,  than  did  on  that  Satur- 
day. Among  those  present,  either  on  the  first  or  last  day,  in- 
cluding those  previously  mentioned,  were  Samuel  F.  Lyman, 
Nathaniel  Fowle,  Robert  H.  Thayer,  Elijah  H.  Mills,  Dr.  Da- 
vid Hunt,  Josiah  Dickinson,  Ansel  Wright,  Sylvester  Bridgman, 
Thomas  Pratt,  Thaddeus  Eussell,  Ebenezer  Eaton,  William 
Tower,  George  Parsons,  all  of  Northampton,  and  Dr.  Wood- 
bridge,  and  Cotton  White,  of  Hadley,  besides  many  others  from 
those  and  neighboring  towns.  It  is  a  memorable  fact  that  this 
was  the  first  house  built  on  any  mountain  in  New  England. 

THE   HOUSE    LEASED. 

During  that  summer  the  house  was  visited  by  a  very  large 
number  of  people,  and  from  the  time  the  house  was  built  to  the 
first  of  October,  upwards  of  6,000  names  were  entered  in  the 
register  kept  on  the  mountain  for  that  purpose.  In  a  single  day 
that  season  there  were  visitors  at  the  Mountain  House  who  re- 
corded their  names  from  no  less  than  twenty-three  towns.  Wil 
lis  Pease,  of  Florence,  then  residing  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
was  the  first  person  who  kept  refreshments  in  the  new  house. 
Mr.  Pease  states  that  an  agreement  was  made  with  him  in  Au- 
gust to  lease  the  house  for  three  years  by  paying  $21,  the 


224         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

amount  then  due  on  the  house,  for  material,  &c.  He  was  to 
meet  the  persons  who  then  had  ofearge  of  it  at  the  Warner 
House  on  the  following  morning,  when  he  was  to  pay  over  the 
money  and  take  the  lease.  But  when  the  individuals  who  had 
made  the  verbal  agreement  to  lease  the  house  to  Mr.  Pease 
were  going  home  from  the  mountain,  they  stopped  at  the  hotel 
kept  by  Zadok  Lyman,  at  Hockanum,  and  mentioned  to  Mr. 
Lyman  that  Mr.  Pease  was  to  take  the  lease  of  the  house.  He 
objected,  on  the  ground  that  it  would  injure  his  hotel,  and  urged 
them  to  lease  the  house  to  him.  They  finally  consented  to,  and 
gave  him  the  lease.  The  next  day  Mr.  Pease  went  to  North- 
ampton, but  to  find  that  he  was  too  late. 

THE   PREMISES    SOLD    AND    A   NEW   HOUSE    BUILT. 

The  Mountain  House  stood  on  land  owned  by  Thomas  Moody, 
of  Granby,  and  Mr.  Pease  having  determined  to  get  possession 
of  it,  purchased  nine  acres  of  land,  including  that  part  on  which 
the  house  stood,  for  which  he  gave  twenty-seven  dollars.  The 
purchase  was  made  on  the  28th  day  of  August.  The  deed 
states  "  that  it  w^as  common  and  undivided  land,  in  South  Had- 
ley,  situated  in  Thomas  Hovey's  second  choice  in  the  two  thou- 
sand acre  division,  conveyed  to  Willis  Pease  by  Thomas  Moody." 
Mr.  Pease,  after  he  had  purchased  the  land,  finding  that  he  was 
unable  to  get  possession  of  the  house  without  resorting  to  legal 
measures,  concluded  to  build  another,  and  about  thanksgiving 
time  went  to  Erving's  Grant,  now  the  town  of  Erving,  and  bar- 
gained for  the  necessary  lumber.  During  the  winter  he  hauled 
it  home,  and  in  March  following  took  it  to  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain and  erected  a  house,  twenty-four  by  twenty-eight  feet,  three 
rods  north-east  of  the  one  previously  built.  There  w^ere  two 
rooms  on  the  south  side  of  the  building  that  Avere  plastered  and 
papered.  It  was  completed  and  opened  on  the  5th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1822.  Mr.  Pease  occupied  the  house  he  erected  that  and 
the  following  year,  for  the  sale  of  refreshments,  when  he  sold, 


3I0UNT   HOLYOKE.  225 

February  21st,  1824,  to  Joel  W.  Smith,  of  Hadley,  for  $600. 
The  original  house  was  kept  till  that  time  by  Mr.  Smith  and 
Samuel  W.  Lyman,  son  of  Zadok  Lyman,  and  they  were  the 
first  ones  to  make  a  foot-path  up  the  mountain  on  the  west  side. 
Mr.  Smith  moved  the  house  built  by  Mr.  Pease  close  to  the  one 
previously  occupied  by  himself  and  Mr.  Lyman,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  the  insecurity  of  the  foundation  it  finally  fell  down. 
February  29th,  1826,  Mr.  Smith  sold  to  Isaac  C.  Bates,  Thomas 
Shepherd,  Isaac  Damon,  of  Northampton,  and  Joseph  Strong, 
of  South  Hadley,  for  $1,500.  November  1st,  1828,  Thomas 
Shepherd  sold  his  fourth  to  William  Swan,  and  in  consequence 
of  financial  difficulties,  Isaac  Damon's  interest  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Ehphalet  Williams,  J.  D.  Whitney,  and  Lewis  Strong, 
on  the  10th  of  the  same  month.  On  the  9th  of  May,  1832, 
Daniel  Stebbins  purchased  the  fourth  held  by  Mr.  Williams, 
Mr.  Whitney  and  Mr.  Strong.  August  4th,  1836,  William 
Swan  sold  the  fourth  held  by  him  to  Daniel  Stebbins,  and  on 
the  loth  of  the  following  November,  Thomas  Shepherd  sold  his 
interest  to  Daniel  Stebbins.  After  the  death  of  Isaac  C.  Bates, 
his  widow,  on  the  17th  of  September,  1847,  sold  the  fourth  pur- 
chased by  her  husband  to  Daniel  Stebbins.  The  original  nine 
acres  purchased  by  Willis  Pease  was  now  owned  by  Dr.  Steb- 
bins, who  kept  it  till  1849,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands  of 
John  W.  French  and  William  P.  Cooper. 

A    BOOK-BINDER    AND     PRINTER     ENGAGE     IN    THE     " HOTEL" 

BUSINESS. 

That  some  one  would  ultimately  build  a  house  as  a  permanent 
establishment  for  the  entertainment  and  accommodation  of  pleas- 
ure-seekers, was  an  idea  long  entertained  by  Mr.  French ;  but 
that  he  should  become  the  proprietor  of  it  was  not  contemplated 
by  him,  and  the  ownership  of  it  is  the  result  of  unforeseen  and 
accidental  circumstances.  For  some  time  he  had  been  at  work 
at  his  usual  vocation — book-binding — in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
10* 


226         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

state;  but  returning  home  in  the  spring  of  1849,  out  of  employ- 
ment, in  company  with  Mr.  Cooper,  a  printer  friend,  the  two 
happened  to  meet  Dr.  Stebbins  in  the  street  in  Northampton. 
The  Doctor,  who  had  always  taken  much  interest  in  the  view 
from  Mount  Holyoke  and  the  prosperity  of  the  Mountain  House, 
proposed  to  Mr.  French  that  he  should  hire  it.  It  appearing 
to  be  a  feasible  project,  Mr.  French  declared  his  willingness  to 
accede  to  Dr.  Stebbins'  request ;  but  Mr.  Cooper  was  adverse  to 
the  enterprise.  He  was,  however,  induced  to  visit  the  moun- 
tain, having  never  been  there.  "When  about  half  way  up  the 
mountain  he  was  blindfolded  and  led  to  the  summit  by  Mr. 
French.  The  summit  reached,  the  covering  was  removed  from 
his  eyes,  and  such  a  prospect  was  there  spread  before  him  as  he 
had  little  thought  of.  He  was  so  pleased  that  he  consented  to 
enter  into  a  business  partnership  with  Mr.  French,  and  they 
immediately  made  arrangements  to  occupy  the  premises.  They 
found  the  house  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  and  then  in  posses- 
sion of  David  Morse,  who  had  leased  it.  His  "refreshments" 
consisted  of  dried  herrings,  crackers,  cigars,  lemons,  water,  and 
a  "toddy-stick."  His  stock  in  trade  was  purchased  for  ten  dol- 
lars, and  in  about  two  weeks,  after  visiting  the  eastern  part  of 
the  state,  they  returned  and  commenced  to  repair  the  house. 

A  NEW  ROAD  OPENED  AND  THE  OLD  ONE  IMPROVED. 

The  road,  which  had  only  been  a  rough  foot-path,  was  made 
wider  and  greatly  improved,  rendering  the  summit  much  easier 
of  access.  The  number  of  visitors  to  the  mountain  rapidly  in- 
creased, in  consequence  of  the  improved  facilities  for  getting  to 
and  from  it,  and  as  there  was  no  open  road,  except  that  over 
private  land,  the  county  commissioners  were  petitioned  to  lay 
out  a  public  highway  from  Hockanum  to  within  one-eighth  of 
a  mile  or  more  of  the  summit.  A  bitter  contest  ensued,  and  a 
writer  in  one  of  the  papers  said  that  a  certain  portion  of  the 
opponents  could  see  no  use  in  any  road,  except  that  which  was 
made  to  cart  broom-corn  and  tobacco  over.     The  commissioners, 


MOUNT    HOLYOKE. 


227 


however,  viewed  the  road  and  located  it,  and  in  1850  it  was 
built.  A  somewhat  laughable  incidt;nt  occurred  at  the  time  the 
commissioners  viewed  the  locality.  An  opponent,  who  was  with 
the  commissioners,  set  forth  his  reasons  for  not  having  the  road 
located;  and  among  others,  said  that  the  mountain  was  some- 
times visited  on  Sunday,  and  the  road  ought  not  to  be  built. 
One  of  the  commissioners  turned  to  Deacon  Cummings,  of 
Ware,  who  w^as  one  of  the  commissioners  at  that  time,  and  said, 
"  Deacon,  T  am  of  the  same  opinion  too.  There's  the  town  of 
Holyoke ;  it's  a  terrible  wicked  place,  and  I  think  all  the  roads 
leading  to  it  ought  to  be  discontinued."  The  deacon  smiled 
complacently  and  proceeded  with  the  work,  while  the  aforesaid 
opponent  thereafter  held  his  peace. 


THE    PROSPECT    HOUSE. 


228  THE    CONNECTICUT   VALLEY   GUIDE. 

On  the  summit  of  Mount  Holyoke  is  a  large  and  commodious 
hotel,  55  by  70  feet,  known  as  the  Prospect  House,  arranged 
with  special  reference  to  viewing  the  scenery  around  the  moun- 
tain.    Its  history  is  told  in  the  following  paragraph : 

Mr.  Cooper  sold  his  interest  to  Mr.  French  in  the  early  part 
of  1851,  and  on  the  25th  of  the  following  February,  Edward 
H.  Graves,  of  Northampton,  son  of  Elisha  Graves,  became  a 
joint  owner  with  Mr.  French.  The  old  house  being  insufficient 
to  meet  the  wants  of  visitors,  it  was  decided  to  build  a  new  one. 
The  necessary  lumber  was  provided,  and  on  the  2  2d  day  of 
May,  1851,  the  frame  was  erected.  Its  size  was  25  by  30  feet, 
two  stories  high,  with  an  observatory  in  the  center.  It  was  lo- 
cated just  north  of  the  old  one,  which  stood  till  June  5th,  when 
it  was  demolished.  The  new  house  was  completed  and  dedicated 
July  5th,  and  has  since  been  known  as  the  Prospect  House. 

The  demand  for  sleeping  accommodations  and  for  permanent 
board  during  the  summer  season  rendered  it  necessary  to  en- 
large the  Prospect  House  to  meet  the  demand  of  pleasure-seek- 
ers, and  in  1861  an  addition,  two  stories  high,  was  constructed, 
making  the  present  size  of  the  house  55  by  70  feet.  There  are 
sleeping  accommodations  for  20  or  30  persons,  besides  a  hall  in 
the  second  story,  20  by  55,  that  is  well  adapted  for  cotillion 
parties  or  prospect  purposes.  The  first  floor,  which  is  occupied 
mainly  as  a  prospect  room,  is  remarkably  pleasant,  and  well 
suited  to  the  wants  of  visitors. 

THE    SEVERAL    PROPRIETORS    OF    THE    OLD  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 

Among  those  who  have  sold  refreshments  on  the  mountain 
previous  to  Mr.  French,  in  the  original  house,  are,  Willis  Pease, 
Samuel  W.  Lyman,  Joel  W.  Smith,  Paul  Strong,  Alonzo  Day, 
Almon  Lyman,  a  Mr.  Preston,  Henry  W.  Prior,  Thomas  E. 
Elliott  and  David  Morse.  Paul  Strong  kept  the  house  seven 
years.  In  an  advertisement,  dated  Northampton,  May  1,  1839, 
Henry  W.  Prior  said :  "  A  new  and  convenient  avenue  to  the 


MOUNT  nOLYOKE.  229 

summit  of  Mount  Holyoke  will  be  opened  this  season,  com- 
mencing near  the  house  of  Loren  Pease,  north  of  Mr.  Lyman's 
hotel,  in  Hockanum.  The  subscriber  will  be  in  attendance 
from  Monday  morning  till  Saturday  night,  with  such  refresh- 
ments and  personal  attention  as  he  hopes  may  be  acceptable  to 
the  wants  of  the  public.  No  contraband  articles  will  be  kept, 
and  the  house  will  be  closed  on  the  Sabbath." 

A   NEW    SYSTEM   ADOPTED. 

Previous  to  1853,  it  had  been  customary  with  those  who 
kept  the  house,  to  charge  a  stipulated  sum  for  the  w^ater  that 
visitors  drank,  as  it  had  to  be  carried  to  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain by  hand,  and  for  refreshments,  what  would  be  exorbitant 
prices  in  other  places.  At  the  suggestion  of  those  who  were 
experienced,  the  proprietor  concluded  to  furnish  visitors  gra- 
tuitously with  all  the  water  they  wished,  and  give  them  the 
conveniences  of  the  house,  for  which  he  would  receive  an  ad- 
mission fee ;  at  the  same  time  selling  refreshments  at  prices 
usual  in  all  public  houses.  This  plan  has  produced  good  re- 
sults in  several  ways.  In  the  first  place  it  has  excluded  that 
class  who  used  to  visit  the  mountain  for  no  other  purpose  than 
to  have  a  "  spree,"  while  the  visitor  does  not  now  feel  under 
the  necessity  of  gorging  himself  with  "  refreshments  "  for  the 
sake  of  compensating  the  proprietor  of  the  house  for  the  trou- 
ble he  may  make  him.  The  first  visitor  to  the  Prospect  House, 
after  the  new  system  was  established,  was  Rev.  E.  Y.  Swift, 
then  of  South  Hadley. 

THE    STAIR    CASE    AND    EAILWAY. 

The  rough  and  narrow  foot-path,  together  with  the  steepness 
of  the  ascent,  had  deterred  many,  especially  elderly  people  and 
invalids,  from  visiting  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  This  diffi- 
culty, however,  was  in  a  measure  obviated  by  the  construction 
of  a  narrow  and  somewhat  circuitous  road  from  the  old  carriage 


230         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

road  to  the  summit.  A  small  horse  cart  and  a  Canadian  pony 
were  used  for  .some  time  to  convey  to  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
from  the  barn,  or  half-way  house,  such  visitors  as  were  unable 
to  walk.  But  the  great  expense  attending  the  repair  of  the 
road,  and  the  increased  travel,  induced  the  proprietor  to  abandon 
the  road  and  construct  a  stair  case  and  railway  to  the  summit, 
which  were  commenced  and  finished  in  1854.  The  stair  case 
contained  491  steps.  To  draw  the  car  to  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, a  stationary  horse-power  at  the  summit  was  used  till  1856, 
when  a  steam  engine,  procured  for  the  purpose,  was  substituted, 
and  found  to  work  to  greater  satisfaction. 

Mr.  Graves  and  Mr.  French  continued  together  in  the  busi- 
ness till  Feb.  5,  1856,  when  they  dissolved  partnership  and  Mr. 
French  purchased  Mr.  Graves'  interest.  Since  that  time  the 
property  has  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  present  proprietor, 
who  has  done  much  to  make  Mount  Holyoke  a  pleasant  place 
of  resort  for  tourists  and  the  lovers  of  nature. 

In  1857  a  new  road  going  north  from  the  mountain,  leading 
to  Hadley,  was  opened,  but  it  is  not  now  used,  another  and 
more  direct  road  having  been  opened  to  the  river. 

In  1860,  a  new  and  improved  railway,  600  feet  long,  with 
double  track,  was  built  north  of  the  old  one  find  directly  in  front 
of  the  Prospect  House.  The  old  track  was  then  given  up  to 
the  use  of  foot  passengers. 

Mr.  French,  having  purchased  land  and  opened  an  avenue  to 
the  river  in  front  of  the  Prospect  House,  a  new  covered  railway 
and  stair  case  was  built  in  1866  from  the  summit  to  the  barn 
below,  to  connect  with  the  horse  railway  to  the  river. 

THE    NEW    TELESCOPE. 

In  1861  a  new  and  powerful  telescope,  made  by  J.  B.  Allen, 
of  Springfield,  was  purchased  for  the  house,  and  many  objects 
that  could  not  be  seen  with  ordinary  glasses  previously  used, 
are  now  discernable,  which  adds  much  to  the  interest  of  visitor*^. 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE.  231 

WHERE    THE    WATER    COMES    FROM. 

As  there  are  no  springs  near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the 
water  used  for  drinking  and  cooking  purposes  has  to  be  carried 
in  kegs  from  the  foot  of  the  railway,  365  feet  below  the  summit, 
to  the  Prospect  House.  Before  the  railway  was  constructed 
visitors  were  charged  from  three  to  five  cents  a  glass  for  water, 
but  the  improved  facilities  afforded  by  the  railway  not  only 
enables  the  proprietor  to  furnish  water  free,  but  to  add  to  it, 
that  desirable  luxury  in  a  warm  day — ice.  The  spring  water 
is  remarkable  for  its  purity  and  coldness,  and  there  are  but  few 
springs  in  this  region  equal  to  it. 

THE    NEW   BARN. 

A  new  and  commodious  barn,  36  by  80  feet,  was  erected 
during  the  latter  part  of  1861,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  pur- 
pose for  which  it  was  built.  It  has  been  fitted  up  with  stalls 
for  the  safe  keeping  of  the  horses  of  those  who  visit  the  moun- 
tain. 

A   PERMANENT    RESIDENCE    ON    THE    MOUNTAIN. 

Previous  to  the  time  when  Mr.  French  took  possession  of 
the  mountain  house,  it  had  not  been  customary  for  the  one  who 
kept  it  to  remain  on  the  mountain  over  night,  as  the  accommo- 
dations for  that  purpose  were  insufficient.  Since  the  Prospect 
House  was  built,  in  1851,  Mr.  French  and  family  have  remain- 
ed there  during  the  summer  and  autumn,  and  for  ten  years  they 
resided  on  the  summit  the  year  round,  and  any  one  who  has 
not,  can  form  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  many  beautiful  scenes  that 
have  been  witnessed,  caused  by  th^  changes  of  season  and  the 
weather.  Violent  storms,  terrific  peals  of  thunder,  vivid  light- 
ning, beautiful  sun-sets,  fogs,  and  rainbows;  the  glittering 
crystallizations  of  winter,  the  deep  green  foliage  of  mid-sum- 
mer, and  the  golden  tinted  forest  of  autumn,  have  all  formed 
scenes  in  which  poet  and  artist  would  find  abundant  themes  for 
song  and  picture. 


232         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 


THE  MOUNTAIN  GROVE. 

The  Grove,  a  short  distance  north-east  of  the  Prospect  House, 
where  seats  and  tables  have  been  provided  for  pic-nic  parties, 
is  a  charming  spot,  and  has  become  a  popular  place  of  resort 
for  those  who  wish  to  enjoy  out  door  amusements.  It  is  only  a 
few  rods  from  the  House,  much  secluded,  while  at  the  same 
time  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained  of  the  river,  and  old  Hadley, 
with  its  broad  streets,  and  waving  elms. 

THE    MEADOWS. 

The  meadows  which  are  so  extensive  on  the  West  and  North 
of  the  Mountain,  remind  the  visitor  of  the  Prairies  of  the 
West.  It  is  supposed  that  the  Valley  was  once  a  vast  lake,  and 
it  is  doubtful  whether  it  was  ever  covered  with  forest  trees. 
At  the  time  of  the  purchase  from  the  Indians,  more  than  two 
hundred  years  ago,  there  were  large  patches  of  land  that  were 
free  from  trees,  which  the  Indians  used  for  cultivation,  and  were 
then  called  "meadows."  In  1653,  Nonotuck,  a  territory  west 
of  the  Connecticut  River,  embracing  the  present  towns  of  North- 
ampton, Easthampton,  Southampton,  Westhampton,  and  part  of 
Hatfield  and  Montgomery,  was  purchased  of  the  Indians,  for 
which  was  paid  one  hundred  fathom  of  Wampum,  (strings  of 
beads,  made  of  shells,)  ten  coats,  some  small  gifts,  and  plowing 
up  sixteen  acres  of  land  on  the  east  side  of  the  Quonnecticut 
River  the  ensuinsj  summer."  There  are  about  8000  acres  in 
the  Northampton  Meadows,  including  Ox-Bow  Island. 

THE    OX-BOW. 

The  serpentine  course  of  the  Connecticut  river,  forms  a  very 
attractive  feature  of  the  view  from. the  mountain;  but  one  of 
the  greatest  objects  of  interest  is  the  old  Ox-Bow,  which  re- 
ceives its  name  from  the  peculiar  course  of  the  river,  a  mile 
below  Hockanum  Ferry.     It  formerly  ran  more  westerly  around 


MOUNT   HOLTOKE.  233 

a  narrow  strip  of  land,  coming  back  directly  opposite  the  place 
where  the  angle   was   made,   and   thence  southerly,  between 
Mounts   Holyoke  and  Tom.     The  distance  across  the  neck, 
from  bank  to  bank,  was   only  thirty  rods,  while   the   river  in 
making  the  circuit,  ran  three  and  a  half  miles.     The  boatmen 
on  the  river  had  frequently  endeavored  to   get  permission  to 
cut  a  channel  through  and  change  the  course  of  the  river ;  but 
the  owners  objected,  as  it  would  greatly  discommode  them. 
High  water,  however,  accomplished  what  the  boatmen  failed  to 
secure.     On  the  24th  of  February,  1840,  the  ice  broke  up  and 
gorged  in  the  river  at  the  end  of  the  "Bow,"  which  caused  the 
water  to  set  back.     It  continued  to  rise  till  it  run  over  the 
"neck."     A  few  furrows  had  been  plowed  on  the  "neck"  during 
the  previous  autumn,  and  as  the  frost  was  out  of  the  ground  a 
channel  was  soon  cut  through  to  the  river  below.     A  large 
number  of  acres  were  washed  away,  and  the  whole  course  of 
the  river  was  changed.     This  made  an  island  of  the  Ox-Bow, 
and  it  so  remained  till  it  was  connected  to  the  main  land  by  the 
railroad  embankment.     There  are  400  acres  in  Ox-Bow  Island, 
as  it  is  now  called,  although  viewing  it  from  the  mountain  with 
the  naked  eye,  it  does  not  have  the  appearance  of  containing 
upward  of  100.     Before  the  new  channel  was  formed  the  Ox- 
Bow  Meadows  were  within  the  limits  of  the  town  of  Hadley, 
but  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature  it  became  part  of  Northampton, 

shepherd's  island. 

In  the  Connecticut  River,  northerly  from  the  Prospect  House, 
is  a  beautiful  island  covered  with  green  grass,  known  to  the  old 
inhabitants  as  Shepherd's  Island;  but  its  peculiar  shape,  with 
the  beautiful  elm  in  the  center,  suggests  to  the  mind  of  the  vis- 
itor Captain  Ericsson's  famous  Monitor,  which  so  successfully 
fought  the  rebel  ram,  Merrimac.  Strangers  will  be  surprised 
to  learn  that  there  are  twenty  acres  of  the  best  of  land  on  the 
island.     It  is  never  cultivated,  but  kept  covered  with  grass  to 


234         THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY  GUIDE. 

prevent  it  being  washed  away  in  freshet  times.  It  is  owned  by 
L.  N.  Granger,  of  North  Hadley.  The  large  elm  in  the  center 
of  the  island  measures  sixteen  feet  in  circumference. 

THE    BIG    ELM. 

Half  a  mile  west  of  the  Hockanum  Ferry  is  the  Big  Elm 
that  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  alludes  to  in  his  "Autocrat  of  the 
Breakfast  Table."  It  is  thirty-one  feet  in  circumference,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  trees  in  New  England.  It  is  frequently  vis- 
ited by  strangers,  and  can  be  seen  from  the  Prospect  House. 

A   NIGHT    VIEW    OF    THE    VALLEY. 

It  is  thought  by  many  that  the  view  from  the  mountain  by 
daylight  is  unsurpassed,  but  that  obtained  at  night  is,  in  some 
respects,  much  more  beautiful.  As  the  sun  sinks  behind  the 
western  hills  and  night  comes  softly  on,  the  distant  objects  fade 
slowly  from  sight  till  nothing  but  the  dim  outline  of  the  winding 
river  remains,  stretching  far  away,  up  and  down  the  valley,  like 
a  silvery  cord.  The  stillness  of  the  night  is  only  broken  by  the 
gentle  rustling  of  the  wind  through  the  tree-tops  and  the  plain- 
tive notes  of  the  whippowil  as  t-hey  come  up  from  the  valley 
below.  In  the  morning,  at  the  first  approach  of  day,  the  visitor 
is  awakened  by  the  sweet  music  of  the  many  birds  that  remain 
undisturbed  in  their  native  wilds. 

THE    GREAT    FRESHET    IN    1862. 

The  great  freshet  in  the  Connecticut  valley,  which  reached 
its  highest  point  on  Sunday,  April  20th — two  feet  higher  at 
Northampton  than  any  freshet  since  the  settlement  of  the  town 
— presented  a  beautiful  appearance  from  Mount  Holyoke.  The 
Ox-Bow  Island  meadows,  south  and  north  Meadows  in  North- 
ampton, and  the  Hadley  meadows,  were  covered  with  water. 
It  is  estimated  that  nearly  10,000  acres  were  completely  sub- 
merged.    At  the  bridge  over  the  Connecticut,  between  Hadley 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE.  235 

and  Northampton,  the  water  was  within  three  or  four  fe€t  of 
the  floor -planks,  and  was  much  visited  by  Northampton  people, 
where  a  good  view  of  tHe  vast  body  of  water  was  obtained. 

WHAT    EVERY   VISITOR    DESIRES    TO    KNOW. 

Distance  from  the  Prospect  House  to 

Northampton,  -  -  - 

Springfield,  -  -  - 

Worcester,      -  -  -  - 

Boston,    -  -  -  - 

Albany,  -  -  -  - 

Hartford,  -  -  - 

New  Haven,  -  -  -  - 

New  York,  -  -  - 

Greenfield,     -  -  -  - 

Brattleboro,  -  _  - 

Bellows  Falls,  _  -  - 

White  River  Junction, 
Perpendicular  elevation  of  Mount  Holyoke,  1,000  feet. 
Carriage  road  from  base  to  feeding-stable,  f  of  a  mile. 
Railway  from  stable  to  summit,  600  feet. 
Perpendicular  ascent  from  stable,  365  feet. 
First  house  built  in  1821. 

Second  house  built  in  1851.  .'    '.':- 

Enlarged  to  present  size  in  1861. 
First  railway  in  1854. 
'     Second  railway  in  1860. 
Present  track  laid  in  1866. 

Number  of  passengers  carried  over  its  track  to  1866, 125,000. 
Number  of  acres  in  Ox-Bow  Island,  400. 
Number  of  acres  in  Shepherd  Island,  20. 
Number  of  acres  in  Northampton  Meadows,  8,000. 
Number  of  acres  in  Hadley  Meadows,  2,700. 
Number  of  trees  in  West  Street,  Hadley,  811. 
Length  of  West  Street,  Hadley,  one  mile. 


3  miles. 

20 

76 

120 

122 

46 

82 

158 

22 

45 

70 

109 

THE  RAILWAY  PASSEN&ERS  ASSURANCE  CO.. 

OF    HATlTFOIlT>,     COTVIV. 

INSURES  AGAINST  ALL  KINDS  OF  ACCIDENTS. 

Cajntalf  -  $304,800. 

JAMES  G-.  BATTERSON,  President. 
GEOEGE  B.  WEIGHT,  Vice-President. 

HENEY  T.  SPEEET,  Secretary. 
JUSTIN  SNOW,  General  Ticket  Agent. 

DBRECTORS: 

James  G.  Batterson,  President  Travelers  Insurance  Co.,  Hartford. 

GusTAVus  F,  Davis,  Director  do  do 

Lewis  L.  Houpt,  President  North  American  Transit  Ins.  Co.,  Philadelphia. 

James  M.  Conrad,  Treasurer  do  do 

C.  H.  Haskins,  Secretary  Western  Transit  Ins.  Co.,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

W.  A.  Brawner,  Director  do  do 

H.  H.  Ormsbee,  President  Travelers'  Ins.  Co.,  Providence,  R.  I. 

Alex.  Farnum,  Director  do  do 

Benjamin  E.  Smith,  President  Accident  Ins.  Co.  Columbus,  Ohio. 

G.  B.  Wright,  Sec'y  and  Treas.  do  do 

A.  A.  HowLETT,  President  U.  S.  Accident  Ins.  Co.,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

Frank  Hiscock,  Director  do  do 

I^  ^  T  E  S. 
REGISTERED  GENERAL  ACCIDENT  TICKETS. 
Registered  General  Accident  Tickets  or  Policies  require  no  application, 
are  fully  registered  at  the  Home  Office,  and  insure  against  all  accidents  trav- 
eling or  otherwise,  for  $5,000  m  c«&e  of  fatal  accident,  or  $)25  weekly 
compensation  in  case  of  disabling  bodily  injury. 

Uatfs  for  Registered  General  Accident  Tickets,  Insuring  $25  per  week  Compensa- 
tion during  Total  Di.-ability  from  non-iatal  Injuries,  and  $5,000  in  the  event  of  Death. 

25   Cents  per  Day  from  1   to  30   Days. 

THE  GENERAL  ACCIDENT  TICKETS  OF  TRAVEL 
Cover  all  Accidents  happening  to  the  insured  during  the  prosecution  of 
his  journey,  without  reference  to  the  conveyance,  time,  place,  or  manner 
of  Accident. 

Rates  for  General  Accident  Tickets  of  TraTcl,  Insuring  $25  per  week  Compensation 
during  Total  Disability  from  non-fatal  Injuries,  received  in  an  Accident  occurring  dur- 
ing the  prosecution  of  a  Journey,  and  $5,000  in  the  event  of  Death. 

fori  day,  20c.    For  5  days,       $1.00    For  2  O  days  f    $3.00 

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THE  TRAVELERS  RISK  TICKETS 
Cover  such   Accidents    ONLY  as  may  happen  TO    THE    CONVEY- 
ANCE by  which  the  insured  may  beat  the  time  traveling,  and  result  in 
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Kates  for  Travelers  Ritk  Tickets,  Insuring  $15  per  week  Compensation  during  Total 
Disability  from  non-fatal  Injuries,  aijd  $3,000  in  tlje  event  of  Death. 

Fori  day,  lOc.     For  5  days,  50c.     For  20  days,    $1.50 

For  3  days,  30c.    For  lO  days,    $1.00    For  3 O  days,      2.00 

ff^No  better  or  more  satisfactory  investment  can  be  made  of  so  small 
a  sum;  therefore,  buy  the  " General  Accident "  and  "Passengers 
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NORTHAMPTON  MASS., 

MANUFACTURE  AND  SELL 

Clark's  Patent  Indelible  Pencil, 

FOR.  MARKIISTG^  LINEN,  &c. 

Patented,  1859.  Improved,  1861.  Perfected,  1866. 


® 


^   9  ^ 


This  Pencil,  unlike  all  Indelible  Inks,  does  not  waste  by 
Evaporation. 

It  is  in  form  like  the  ordinary  lead  pencil. 

It  makes  a  clear,  black  mark  that  will  remain  after  years  of 
wear  and  washing. 

"  Not  inconvenient  and  troublesome  like  the  marking  Inks." 
— Scientific  American, 

"  Cannot  be  washed  out" — Boston  Journal. 

"  Ladies  can  use  it  without  risk  of  blotting." — N'ew   York 
Evening  Post. 

"  Desirable,   convenient   and   useful." — Springfield  Repub- 
lican. 

The  new  styles,  greatly  improved,  will  be  ready  for  sale> 
August  1st,  1866. 

AGENTS  SIJPPL.IED  OIV  L.IBERAE  TERMS. 

Address, 

THE  INDELIBLE  PENCIL  CO., 

NORTHAMPTON,    MASS. 


EDWIN  CHASE  &  SONS, 

DEALERS  IN 

NORTHERN  AND  WESTERN 

LUMBEE, 


SHINGLES  AND   LATH. 

ALSO, 

DIMENSION    TIMBER, 

OF  ALL  KINDS, 


t^)i  x^j 


EDWIPf  CHASE,  J.  E.  CHASE,  H.  A.  CHASE. 

FIRE  &  LIFE  INSURANCE  AGENT, 

Notary  Public  and  Commissioner  of  Deeds 

FOR  NEW  YORK,  OHIO,  AND  NEVADA. 

Office  oyer  the  Post  Office, 
NOR;THAMPTO]Sr,  MASS. 


PRATT,  WHITNEY  &  CO., 


MANUFACTURERS   OP 


Machinists'  &  Grun  Tools, 


ST^TVIV^I^D'^ 


vhrzm  WATsn  Moroaet 


OR  HYDRAULIC  ENGINES. 


Office  and  Maaufactoiy,  foot  of  Flower  Street 


A  few  rods  South  of  Passenger  Depot, 


HARTFORD,   CONN. 


A  SEWING  MACHINE, 

SO  constructed  as  to  avoid  intricate  and  mysterious  complica- 
tions, one  requiring  no  more  mechanical  skill  and  inge  nuity  to 
comprehend  and  adjust  than  do  the  thousand  duties  of  every 
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the  desideratum  of  the  day,  and  will  be  appreciated  by  every 
lady,  and  bring  joy  to  many  a  house. 

A  great  number  of  testimonials  prove,  and  personal  exam- 
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crown  of  excellence  must  be  awarded  to 

THE  WEED, 

MANUFACTURED  AT  HARTFORD,  COM. 


•  •  • 


GENERAL  OFFICE  AND  SALESROOM, 

240  MAIN  STREET,  HARTFORD,  CONN. 

New  York  Office,  506  Broadway. 

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North  "Western  Office,  102  Washington  Street, 

Chicago,  111. 

And  for  sale  in   most  of  the  principal  towns  and  cities  of  the 

world. 


